Hello nairalanders.I need ur help..pls I recently scanned my car a toyota camry 2002 model xle and got the following errors-P1135 A/F sensor circuit heater malfunction bank sensor 1.pls what does dis mean .pls explain thoroughly.will dis make my car consume more
fuel
and what is d function this thing and also if I wanna change it what is d price and where is it located in d car sef.thanks a lot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPo0Mm3ccIA

Pls anybody in the house to help

myke20: Pls anybody in the house to help

Actually, P1135 is pointing to a fault in the internal heater for the Air/Fuel Sensor (aka Oxygen Sensor) for Bank1 Sensor1 - not in valve timing.
The PCM uses this internal heater to get the sensor to normal operating temps on cold starts. Replacing the Air/Fuel Sensor should solve the problem. Also check female connector if its ok.
For 4 cylinder engines, its located right in the front of the engine facing the radiator on the exhaust manifold. Follow the manifold from the head to the first sensor. This sensor will be mounted on a section of the manifold after all the individual
exhaust pipes combine on the exhaust, just behind the fan. Check if its the conventional or wide band sensor and replace with same type. I'll suggest Denso® brand.
No idea of the price though.

@dizzy bizzy thanks.so the sensor is located in the engine area and my mechanic said it is located under the exhaust @ the back of the car.na wa o.does dis make d car consume too much fuel.

Evening, let's have some more info. Is your Car an I4 Engine or a V6 Engine?

Regards
E-Garage

@ E4 thanks.its a 4 plug engine so guess its an i4.

As rightly pointed out by dizzy bizzy the A/F sensor (Bank 1) is located in the exhaust manifold facing the radiator. The sensor located in the rear (as pointed out by your mechanic) is the oxygen sensor (Bank 2). This is placed after the catalytic converter and detects the catalyst efficient by measuring the oxygen content in the exhaust. This is a short range sensor, unlike the A/F sensor.

Code P1135 relates to the A/F sensor on the exhaust manifold. It indicates heater circuit malfunction (not within range) and the ECM trips the code. The A/F sensor is a wide range sensor which needs to reach it's operating temperature as quick as possible as the ECM uses it to maintain the air fuel ratio at stoichiometric point which is 14.7 :1. At this point the tailpipe emissions are also kept at their minimum and fuel injection (pulse width) will be at it's optimum. The A/F sensor operates at a much hotter temperature at approx. 600 - 650C compared to the oxygen sensor at approx. 400C.

In your case the as this code is present the ECM has tuned off the A/F heater detection circuit. What this means is as the sensor it not reaching it's operating temperature is producing very little voltage feedback, or none to the ECM. Without proper feed back to the ECM injection time cannot be properly controlled; hence the duty cycle of the injectors will be increased and more fuel will be injected/consumed. This is in failsafe mode. A this point tailpipe emission (excess hydrocarbons) will also shoot up. You may be also noticing a peculiar smell from under the vehicle / rear (exhaust side) and possibly blackish exhaust smoke from the rear muffler when the engine is accelerated.

You could read the live data stream from a compatible scan tool. The A/F sensor works on a 3.3 volt reference at the ECM. it is designed so at 14.7 :1 there is no current produced; hence the voltage put out by the ECM is 3.3.

In your case from a data stream reading the voltage output produced by the detection circuit will be BELOW 3.3 v. This indicates a RICH MIXTURE.

You need to get the system back to the reference voltage of 3.3v. Other factors may also aid in this.

Most likely A/F sensor will require replacement. You will not get a new one here. A good condition fairly used one may be available, but you will need to check the live outputs with a scan tool.

Alternatively, although NOT ADVISED and not professional, if you have the time you can get a few and change them out until you notice a difference in the mpg's. Also, once the A/F sensor heater circuit is turned on and it is operating within range the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) will turn itself off after one or two drive cycle's.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

@ md autotec thanks.but the problem is still dere.my mechanic took the sensor out and said that the brain box is faulty and dat it does not read a a correct code bla bla bla.he use a tester to test the stuff and current was in some and not in some.he said something about earth sha.so rite noe I have 18.1MPG as my average mpg.is dis good or bad and can u direct me to where I can solve dis problrm once and for all in benin

@op, check out this thread.
www.nairaland.com/783083/how-preparing-fuel-price-increase

Whatever you do, don't buy used air-fuel sensors. Best of luck.

Thanks yall.my mechanic claims dat dere are no new oxygen sensors dat u can only get 2nd grade and dat it is 7000 naira.na wa o.so what do I do next

Air-fuel sensors are best bought new. Any used one might be already faulty or nearing the end of its useful life.

Get the part number on the body of the sensor and contact a reputable Toyota parts dealer.

I repeat, do not buy it used. Do not listen to the mechanic. He just wants to make some money.

That's the first time I am hearing that an ECM (engine control module) is detecting a wrong fault code! As long as the check engine lamp is on and you have retrieved P1135 from the scan then this is the trouble area that needs to be diagnosed. Please for now DO NOT allow your mechanic to touch the engine control module (computer). On what basis is he running the electrical tests with his tester? Does he have a factory wiring diagram and all the manufacturer specific information?

This is not a complex fix. As rightly said by some members here it is probably not the best idea to buy a used A/F sensor, but if your mechanic has basic knowledge of engine electronics, sensor range's and how to operate a good diagnostic scan tool (with live data stream), you could actually read the range in which the existing A/F sensor is operating and then get a used A/F sensor (for testing purposes) and read the range of that, then compare to manufacturer specific parameters. It needs to be working as close to 3.3 volts to maintain the perfect air fuel mixture. Anything too low indicates a rich mixture (too much fuel) and anything too high indicates a lean mixture (too much air).

You may email me your vehicle information (year & chassis (VIN) number) to md_autos@yahoo.com. I will check the availability of the new A/F sensor for you.

Regards

@ md thanks.where is ur office located.will email u now.thanks

Its difficult to see where one can buy the oxygen sensors in nigeria, please, where can one buy one? thanks