Aqva: ^^^
Already seen d reset procedure, tried it and it didn't work.
The BSI repair company is UK based
Thanks man.

Have you considered the cost of sending the BSI unit to the UK company for repairs, to the cost of replacing the BSI unit, engine ECU and also , possibly, the ignition switch/key?

Ikenna

Aqva: Ikenna, hope u had a swell day?
My 206 has central lock problem. The BSI seems to be the issue. I fixed a new BSI and d central lock started working but the car won't start because of the immobilizer and it has to be recoded to work with my car's ECU. Did some online research and found out that a BSI cannot be recoded. The only option is to buy a new BSI and ECU from the same car and transfer to my car before it will work. How true is this? Isn't there some guru that can actually program the new BSI to work with my car?

Another unfortunate thing is that the new BSI i put in my car briefly changed my mileage from 44,000 to 145,000. I read that fixing a new BSI changes the reading of the mileage. Imagine my car that is pretty low on mileage now taking on the mileage of an older car. Can i get someone to reprogram the mileage? The new BSi wasn't even used because d car won't start, it was just fixed to test if the central lock would work.

Honestly, this newer model of cars have too much wahala. My central lock controls my boot and d boot has no external opener, therefore my boot no longer opens and i have no access to my spare tire. I really feel like selling the car.

a BSI should be bought with its original ECU and keys that is if its taken our from another car or else the new BSI unit has to be programmed

check my post within this thread

@Ikenna, sending the BSI to Uk is a long thing. It means my car would be grounded for weeks if not months.

Unto other matters, my Ac leaks gas but nobody is sure from where. I have changed d compressor seal but yet it still leaks.
The issue now is that the Ac guy wants to check the evaporator located in the dashboard. Is it safe to allow a road side Ac man take down the dash? Wouldn't it affect somethings when he couples it back? The dash is quite sensitive. Would have taken it to Peugeot workshop but i'm sure it will cost a fortune. Advice needed please.

Aqva: @Ikenna, sending the BSI to Uk is a long thing. It means my car would be grounded for weeks if not months.

Unto other matters, my Ac leaks gas but nobody is sure from where. I have changed d compressor seal but yet it still leaks.
The issue now is that the Ac guy wants to check the evaporator located in the dashboard. Is it safe to allow a road side Ac man take down the dash? Wouldn't it affect somethings when he couples it back? The dash is quite sensitive. Would have taken it to Peugeot workshop but i'm sure it will cost a fortune. Advice needed please.

A/C evaporator is the last place to look for a gas leak, considering that dashboard will have to comedown to get to the evaporator.

My BABY was having A/C gas leak since i got the car. Myself and an A/C fellow checked every possible a/c components that could be causing the leakage, but couldnt find the leak. Each time i took the car to him to refill the system, he would change all the seals, yet the gas would leak less than a month, sometimes it would last only a week. Someone suggested that my evaporator could be leaking. Fortunately, the evaporator is in the engine bay, not inside the car, under/behind dash. So getting to it wouldnt be an issue. But the A/C man informed me that the evaporator used in 505 is made of copper, and that since he started doing the A/C work (he is really an elderly man), he had never seen a 505 evaporator leaked gas, since copper doesnt rust. Only if its broken, which would only happen if the car had an accident that would get to the dashboard. So with that confidence, i didnt bother to touch the evaporator. I went on my own and purchased an expansion valve. As soon as he replaced it for me and refilled the gas, the leakage matter was closed. Its 3 months now and the A/C chills like ice from then till date. To be very honest with you, my windows have never come down for the 3 months now (thank God for the Climate Control System) & I pray it remain so.

Now, I dont know what the 206 evaporator is made of. If its not copper, the leakage could be from there. But its very easy to know if the evaporator is leaking or not without bringing any dashboard down (which could be a nightmare to fix back). Have you noticed any oil on any of the front flow mats or under the mats? Dont confuse it with hydraulic from clutch master cylinder, if yours is leaking i.e. if the clutch system is hydraulically controlled. A/C gas oil should be brownish and sticky. If the evaporator is leaking, you will find oil on the front floor. Also, you can as well findout if evaporator is leaking via the A/C water waste line. Check the hose that water comes out from under the car, when the A/C is on, to know if the water coming out is sticky or mixed with oil. You will know when you touch it. If you find oil on the floor or waste line, then am sorry, your dash must come down.

One thing is to pull out dash (which could be very simple and easy), but to fix it back, with all the wiring connectors or plugs properlly pushed back to the correct switches scattered all over the dash, is another matter entirely. If care is not taken, you might end up not having all the switches working, after re-installation of the dashboard. Newer cars dashboard are not for anyhow rewire to tamper with. Know and trust who you are giving it to pull down for you. IF i were you, I would do that myself, taking pictures while disconnecting the connectors behind the switches. If you cant do it, then, you will have to take the risk and give it to one you have confidence that could do it.

I dont know if your car expansion valve is in the engine bay or under the dash too? If you can see and touch the valve, run or rub your hand round it. If you touch any oil, then there is your culprit.

Goodluck.

Ikenna

Thanks Ikenna for taking out time to respond.

Questions for d gurus. My cars temp rises to above 90 before d fan picks. is it normal?
My mech says we shld connect d fan direct. Is it safe? I jst changed my termostat and it still climbs a little above 90. Maybe 95 or so.
Does dat qualify as overheating?

Aqva: Questions for d gurus. My cars temp rises to above 90 before d fan picks. is it normal?
My mech says we shld connect d fan direct. Is it safe? I jst changed my termostat and it still climbs a little above 90. Maybe 95 or so.
Does dat qualify as overheating?

Its ok, its not overheating. Don't attempt that direct connection it almost burnt my car.

Aqva: Questions for d gurus. My cars temp rises to above 90 before d fan picks. is it normal?
My mech says we shld connect d fan direct. Is it safe? I jst changed my termostat and it still climbs a little above 90. Maybe 95 or so.
Does dat qualify as overheating?

90 C is the normal operating temp of Peugeots. Your fan is not suppose to spin at the 90 C, since thats the best temp for your engine. The fan will only start spinning when the temp guage needle exceeds 90 C (a little bit above 90). The fans will spin at full speed to push heat or suck/pull heat out of the already hot radiator, which will reduce or bring down the temp of the coolant back to 90 C and goes off again, pending when the temp exceeds 90 C again. Your car engine temp would only exceed 90 C when the car is stationary and the engine is running or when you are in traffic jam. But as long as the car is in motion, doing more than 40km/h or so, the fans will remain off. You can drive from Abuja to East (about 8 hrs journey ,depending on the speed) and your fans wont spin throughout the journey, as long as you donot meet traffic jam or slowed down below 40km/h. It is the thermostat that controls or determines the spinning of the fan. In fact, thermostat controls or regulates the entire engine cooling system. Remove the thermostat and kiss your engine good-bye. Only time will tell when the engine will finally pack up, just because of absence of one little component, the thermostat.

But do know that most Peugeots have two fan speeds: speed 1 and speed 2. Speed 1 spins very slowly, not enough to suck or push heat out enough from the radiator. Speed 2 is the full speed. When the speed 2 engages, the sound or unique noise of the fan will tell you that the fans are on speed 2. Peugeot electric fan speed 2, especially 406, has a unique sound. No other brand fans sound like that. Even from afar, you could tell by the sound of radiator electric fan on speed 2, if the approaching vehicle is Peugeot or not, without even looking at the vehicle.

Ikenna

I shipped a Peugeot 406 to naija and the drivers that transported it to the port forgot the keys.Please,does anyone knows a good mechanic who can programe a new key for the car?And please how much does it normally goes for .If any ideals..I am considering doing it here and sending it to niaja.Thanks

Thanks Ikenna and bigx

Lion owners, read this below:




2000 Peugeot 206 s16 2.0 from Australia and New Zealand


The safest small car in the world


General Comments:

This car saved my life.

I was hit head on at 100km an hour on a southern road in New Zealand. The other driver slipped on the ice, crossed the center line, and was killed in the accident.

The front of my 206 disintegrated taking all the impact. The engine dropped below the car as it should do. I walked out of the car with only fractures. The crash investigators said they would recommend Peugeot to everyone they met.

This is a seriously safe car.

Source: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/peugeot/206/2000/




Ikenna

^^^
Good to knw considering dat I have a 206.

Another general question, should we be using water for our radiator? What is d long term effect of using water
I want to switch to using only coolant. A 4litre Abro jar is 2k5.
Some pple buy alrdy mixed coolant and add to d water in their radiator.
I think its more effective to buy a 4litre jar of alrdy mixed coolant only without using water at all.

My ac evaporator. The culprit for my ac leak. Yet to recouple d dash. Will update.

Aqva: ^^^
Good to knw considering dat I have a 206.

Another general question, should we be using water for our radiator? What is d long term effect of using water
I want to switch to using only coolant. A 4litre Abro jar is 2k5.
Some pple buy alrdy mixed coolant and add to d water in their radiator.
I think its more effective to buy a 4litre jar of alrdy mixed coolant only without using water at all.

What is written on the label is what matters. We have pre-mixed and non pre-mixed.

Since you are using Peugeot, I would advice you use TOTAL coolant instead, not ABRO. TOTAL is a French company. French cars (like Peugeot & Renault) are factored in in all their products or while producing them. If you checked their site, you will see that they recommended Peugeot for all their products. There was a time I bought pre-mixed TOTAL coolant. But i cant find the pre-mixed anymore, have been seeing non-premixed (TOTAL) instead. Check your owners manual to know if its 50:50 or 70:30. It will be safer to do 50:50 if you cant find the factory mixing percentages.

Ikenna.

Ikenna, i agree with you.
I bought my car some years back as brand new and i have used only water ever since. I regret not switching to coolant all this 7yrs plus. Anyway, will look out for the Total coolant.

Finally changed my evaporator and my ac seems to be working very well. I have to wait for a few weeks to be sure the leakage has stopped for real. Thankfully, the ac guy coupled the dash well.
There is a little problem though. These guys can't end up doing a job without problems. There is a wire that was cut inside the steering column, it has caused my airbag light to come on. I soldered back the wire but the airbag light is still on.
Seems like i have to use a scanner to clear the light. Any solutions anybody?

Speaking of A/C, i decided yesterday to check if everything was fine with all the A/C components. Unfortunaltely, my A/C compressor was leaking oil (probably freon) from the pulley end, which i believe, was caused by the raw cooking gas or something that looked like it the man used in flushing the A/C system, the last time he worked on it. I didnt know that that gas could be that strong until when i saw all the seals on the pressure hoses melted, after he had finished flushing the system. So i wasnt surprised when i saw oil around the compressor pulley yesterday. The cooking gas or whatever it was, must have damaged or weakened the seal, which gradually destroyed it. If I had known, i would have insisted that he use freon to flush the system (additional 2 cans would do) which was even cheaper than the gas he used. Now, it has cost me my compressor. I have myself to blame though. because i wasnt comfortable when he wanted to do the flushing job with that gas. But he said that it was what everyone has been using to flush a/c system. But of course, nothing stopped me from saying no and asked him to use freon instead. But now, its all clear to me. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE!

Anyway, at Enugu then, i have seen people that rebuilded their A/C compressor. But here in Abuja, no none knows nothing. All they care about is " replacement". At least, the compressor still works, but I know soon, the gas will all soon leak from that spot and i will stop getting cold air. But i would prefer to replace the damaged seal than to replace the compressor, since i donot know the condition of the pistons in the used one to be purchased. Well, will put some calls and decide what to do or which to choose.

Again, do not allow anyone to flush the A/C system with what you not comfortable with or what could be harmful to the system, no matter how dirty the system is. Let him use extra 2 cans of a/c gas for it.

Ikenna

My Pug 307 Challenges(EW10 Series).
Hi Guys...; My Second Peugeot Experience has been really interesting ( I owned a Pug 306 1.8L a few years ago before a Long Jap Break-Don't grimace ). Anyways like I mentioned on an earlier post on this thread, my EW10 Series Pre-facelift Pug 307 (2.0 16V) started spewing a bit of oil on the front part of my engine-see pix, and on examination I detected that the Throttle body seemed rather oily, as well the area just beneath the throttle body. I did some digging around and detected that my Engine Breather tube was broken and had that fixed. I then had the already spilled oil cleaned off.
The problem continued and i asked a seemingly knowledgable PAN trained mechanic here what the fault could be. He suggested that i change the Cylinder Head Cover-see pic). I have had that changed with a new cylinder head cover seal installed, and still the problem is there. Otherwise my Engine runs fine. I have scoured through my Haynes repair manual but I can't seem to find anything helpful. I also looked online-Even Aussie Frogs seemed not to have much on the topic.
So now I asked the Auto gurus here... Siena, Ikenna... Pleas what could the culprit be. Is the blue sensor just under the throttle body in the pic the oil pressure sensor.. could that be responsible..??
The second challenge i'm having is that my Pug has to crank quite a few number of ´times-up to 3 or 4 before starting each morning, and then sometimes it doesnt respond to the throttle immediately after starting and then moves sluggishly (its an auto tranny). But after warming up it runs fine for the rest of the day and has no starting issues whatsoever. I changed my plugs from the original Boschs to Borg and also my fuel pump (Thanks to my PAN mechanic again )and immediately the engine started misfiring and threw up a catalytic converter fault. I reverted back to my old pump and plugs and the misfiring and Converter fault disappeared, but the morning hard starting is still there.
Otherwise it runs and handles lovely, though the tranmission changes could be smoother. Am thinking of ordering the Pressure solenoids for the AL4 (or maybe a complete valvebody modified with the new Borg warner Solenoids), but can't seem to find a link. Siena, could you be of help?? Any ideas suggestions would be appreciated

Oh; and I also noticed that the hose connecting the secondary air injection pump to the cylinder head cover is broken. Can that account for hard staring in the morning??

Oh; and I also noticed that the hose connecting the secondary air injection pump to the cylinder head cover is broken. Can that account for hard staring in the morning??
Will post pix tomorrow

t-die:
Oh; and I also noticed that the hose connecting the secondary air injection pump to the cylinder head cover is broken. Can that account for hard staring in the morning??
Will post pix tomorrow

Cold engine hard starting issue?

Simply, your car engine is having over flooding or lean mixture issue (i believe), which would prevent the car from starting easily when engine is cold.

Usually, such an injection issue can be caused by corroded wiring connectors, vacuum leak or faulty CTS.

I would start with vacuum lines. Make sure that all the vacuum lines are well clamped. Any small leak or broken line will cause flooding of combustion chambers or leaning fuel entering the combustion chambers, which will hinder the work of spark plugs.

A corroded engine or ECU wiring connectors could give a similar symptom. You will be surprised how the engine performance will be improved by cleaning the connectors once in a while. Peugeots are known for this flaw: easily corroded connectors or bad ground or earth. Disconnet the battery, clean cts connector with methylated spirited , likewise the ecu connectors and anyother sensor connectors you can reach. Loss of signal or partial signal of sensors to ecu due to corroded connector(s) would give such symptom.

Have you checked the resistance and voltage values of the cts? Try the first 2 above. If the problem persist, i will then guide you on how to test CTS with DMM, to know how good the sensor is.

Ikenna

Thanks Ikenna; but what of the oil leak issue?? Did you see the pictures I posted and the other symptoms I complained about earlier...? What's the blue sensor that's directly under the throttle body?? It is also quite oil soaked. Could it be the cause of the Oil leak.

Arrrgh. I'm beginning to see Pug cars as liablities. Not sure if the Japs make their cars so complex.

Aqva: Arrrgh. I'm beginning to see Pug cars as liablities. Not sure if the Japs make their cars so complex.

All cars have issues... Peugeots maybe moreso, but then you don't buy a Peugeot for Jap grade reliability. My 307 Handles and moves like a dream on the highway. My Old 306 survived a rollover+Somersault car crash with its new owner and is still on the road. So its Safety and Handling.... Exceptional.
Have you even driven toyotas before...? Boring... even the Avalon flagship models

See other issues with other cars
Mazda (Japanese)
https://www.nairaland.com/1035052/car-engine-starts-fine-first

oh, even the ever popular beloved camry... (Japanese, and Toyota for that matter)
https://www.nairaland.com/1033149/nairalanders-camry-messing-up

Toyota 2002 rav 4 electrical ECU issues...

Honda 2003 -2007 with perennial gearbox wahala

etc etc....

And moreover, The new Pugs 308, 408 etc have very good reliability ratings

The Lion Badge rules, and even if I go outside Peugeot, it's at least going to be an European marque...
Ikenna, Siena, I still dey wait o...

Sorry to be a bug, but Ikenna and Siena, I still dey wait o...

t-die:
Sorry to be a bug, but Ikenna and Siena, I still dey wait o...

I don't think the oil pressure switch/sensor will have anything thing to do with the issue. If the sensor fails, you will get oil pressure warning lit on the instrument cluster, unless the switch seal has failed/broken.

Where exactly is the oil coming out from? From the oil filler cap vacuum line to the throttle body? Or is oil dropping from the pressure switch or what? Am yet to get the picture. It appears your engine is not breathing properly. Hope none of the engine breathing tube/line is blocked? is the sensor on top of the blue sensor the TPS (throttle Position Sensor)?

Lets hope others would have a better suggestion on what could be the issue and how to fix it.

Ikenna.

@ t-die,

I would need you to carryout a leak test.

Clean the exterior of the throttle body well, including the oil pressure sensor. Make sure you wipe out oil around the sensor. Then start the car, let it idle as long as it takes, until you see the spot where the oil is leaking out from, on the oil pressure sensor or wherever. Let us know your findouts.

Ikenna.

Morning @Ikenna,

a friend is having an issue with a 407,after normal service(change of oil and filters),Engine management system faulty came up on and it enters safe mode and rev more than 2000rpm .Please if possible let me have you contact

Hi Ikenna351,

Thanks for this wonderful thread! I have a challenge with my 2004 Peugeot 407 1.8i and its starting to piss me off. The engine losses power randomly and it displays a host of errors including ones that are obviously wrong (e.g. faulty side lamps...fog lamps when they are infact working perfectly).

1. I recently discovered that my catcon is broken so I had it totally removed and my mech suggested that they put some funny material in it. This did not improve the lack of power from the engine especially when I start to accelerate.

2. I looked at some threads online and read that the EGR vavlve could be the reason for the power loss as it displays Anti pollution fault so I had it blanked as suggested online. Still no improvement.

3. I have had the air filter system cleaned (I intend to change it completely at my next visit to the mechs). No improvement.

4. I suggested to my mechanic that we change the fuel filter and to my surprise he came back and informed me that the car does not use a fuel filter! this is really strange to me.

5. Yesterday evening it started to display Engine Management Fault after about 30 minutes of driving and then the engine will not rev more than 2000 rpms. It goes back to normal (its not too powerful mode) after I leave it to cool off for a few minutes.

I will really appreciate any help with this as I have just bought the car. If you don't mind you can let me have your phone number/email for further discussion.

Thanks.

Lanre.
olanrewajushowunmi@yahoo.com.

olashow: Hi Ikenna351,

Thanks for this wonderful thread! I have a challenge with my 2004 Peugeot 407 1.8i and its starting to piss me off. The engine losses power randomly and it displays a host of errors including ones that are obviously wrong (e.g. faulty side lamps...fog lamps when they are infact working perfectly).

1. I recently discovered that my catcon is broken so I had it totally removed and my mech suggested that they put some funny material in it. This did not improve the lack of power from the engine especially when I start to accelerate.

2. I looked at some threads online and read that the EGR vavlve could be the reason for the power loss as it displays Anti pollution fault so I had it blanked as suggested online. Still no improvement.

3. I have had the air filter system cleaned (I intend to change it completely at my next visit to the mechs). No improvement.

4. I suggested to my mechanic that we change the fuel filter and to my surprise he came back and informed me that the car does not use a fuel filter! this is really strange to me.

5. Yesterday evening it started to display Engine Management Fault after about 30 minutes of driving and then the engine will not rev more than 2000 rpms. It goes back to normal (its not too powerful mode) after I leave it to cool off for a few minutes.

I will really appreciate any help with this as I have just bought the car. If you don't mind you can let me have your phone number/email for further discussion.

Thanks.

Lanre.
olanrewajushowunmi@yahoo.com.

You kind of put yourself in this problem? Why didnt you scan the car the first time you noticed the loss of power, since you couldnt troubleshoot manually? From your explanation, all what you & your mechanic have been doing is guess work.


By the way, you said the mechanic removed the catalytic converter. What about the oxygen sensor on the carty? Did he install it back on the exhaust and plug back the sensor connector to harness? Or have you been using the car without the o2 sensor and expect the engine to run smoothly? I believe the car fuel economy has been suffering all those while.

You have really complicated matters. Its more like an abuse, forgive me to say. If I were you, i would get my own OBD II scanner. Better still, Lexia 3 Peugeot/Citroen scanner. Contact bigx, off the section. I believe he still have it in stock. The scanner will always direct you to the possible culprit, whenever something electric goes wrong, to prevent trial and error, when you cant afford taking the car for commercial scanning.

For now, find a place you can scan the car and let us see the error codes. We will take it from there.

Ikenna

I actually scanned it but God save us from these mechs.. Truth is my mech can not interpret the codes and solve the problem as it is. Please what do you suggest? and can you recommend a good one here in lagos? or

olashow: I actually scanned it but God save us from these mechs.. Truth is my mech can not interpret the codes and solve the problem as it is. Please what do you suggest? and can you recommend a good one here in lagos? or

Sorry, I stay in Abuja.

But can we have the error codes you pulled?

Ikenna