Hello Gent. Pls can someone help with a solution to why my honda accord 2005 model revs it self anytime i start it, then it stabilizes after throttling itself for 2-4 times. Ive bought injector cleaner but it didnt work. pls what can I do to solve it.

Check d throttle cable it might b faulty.

Thank you very much. I will go check it out.

might be the idle control sensor. Is the "engine maintenance" sign on. Does it die on its own? Run a code and go from there. Find the problem first.

No, the check engine lite is not on. After revving its self, it dies down on its own. This happens only when i have driven the car for sometime times and park to shop maybe. if i come back and start the car it starts revving itself.

I think this is an expected behaviour when you start the car after it's been packed for hours/ and or first time in the day.

The reason behind this is a leakage (loss of pressure) in the engine. The revving of the engine is from the brain box, trying to stabilise the engine pressure and that's why it takes a little while before it normalises. This leakage(s) usually occurs between the engine block and the part where the injector joins the engine. You can find out exactly where it's leaking by simply pouring water (in small quantities) in this area while the engine is on. Once u notice a change in the sound of the engine while doing this, note the spot and work on it. It is usually an old or broken "gasket" that you'd have to deal with.

Its normal if you don't have a check engine light on. It is suppose to warm up your car Quick (similar to a choke) so the engine can quickly reach the optimal operation temperature.Most injectors have this function

Its a problem if the RPM doesn't drop to between 500RPM-800RPM (Depends on the car) in about 5 mins.

This is very normal, and called auto rev. It is there to get your engine to operational temperature faster. Once your coolant gains temperature, the rpm gets back to normal. Please don't alter your engine settings!

As stated by Ice and Kas, its a normal thing. Had thesame worries at first too. Consult your owners manual.

talktojoe64: Hello Gent. Pls can someone help with a solution to why my honda accord 2005 model revs it self anytime i start it, then it stabilizes after throttling itself for 2-4 times. Ive bought injector cleaner but it didnt work. pls what can I do to solve it.

It happens to my 2005 Honda Accord, I think is a normal thing.

To the autogurus, sienna, ikenna, youngboss and co, i have a similar problem though mine is bit different. let me be more specific. When i start my car (2002 toyota camry 14) in the morning, the rev needle gets to 2000 rpm, then starts dropping gradually. the rev remains a bit higher than 1000 rpm while i drive off and then in five minutes, it stabilizes to the normal 800 rpm. My question is, is it okay that the rev needle hits the 2k rpm mark upon starting the engine? @op, just contibuting to ur thread with my own lil complaint. hope u dont mind. Cheers.

talktojoe64: No, the check engine lite is not on. After revving its self, it dies down on its own. This happens only when i have driven the car for sometime times and park to shop maybe. if i come back and start the car it starts revving itself.

Its not normal.

Ikenna.

CTS will signal to ECU to increase fuel spray into combustion chambers in cold start, but not as high as 2k rpm. At most, it should be 1k rpm. I maynot know all car brands and models ignition system set up, but 2k rpm at cold start is odd. Peugeots dont rev beyond 1k rpm at cold start, unless there is an issue with signals ECU receives from IAC, MAP or TPS.

Vacuum leak:
A leak on the intake manifold, expecially where it joined/bolted on the cylinder head. A leak on any of the vacuum lines would give one such symptom. An unplug or not well clamped vacuum line would do the same. A leak where throttle body joined the intake manifold will give such system.

How do you troubleshoot vacuum leak? Get a carburetor cleaner, start the car, spray the carb cleaner on suspected places. The engine sound will rev higher when you spray it on the spray spot. Note that this must be done when engine is still cold. Trust me, you dont need go spray carb cleaner on hot intake manifold, if yours is not plastic. A hot engine will make cylinder hot. A hot cylinder head will make non plastic intake manifold hot. Carb cleaner shouldnt near this things when they are hot, unless you plan to risk burning that engine or car to ashes.

MAP/MAF/AFM:
Will detect an unwanted extra air in the system if there is a vacuum leak, and signal to ECU to add more fuel to compersate, hence, the high rev.


TPS:
Your Throttle position sensor, if out of adjustment will cause some running problems for the engine, since it signals wrongly to ECU the position of the throttle body butterfly. If yours is potentionmeter, check it with Digital Multimeter to know if it still sends correct values to ECU when butterfly moves. I can teach you how to do that, if you are interested. Note that a faulty or improper adjusted TPS will affect the cars aceleration adversely (the car will be slugish or wont be quick as it used to). So, TPS maynot be the cause of your engine high rev, if the dull acceleration is not happening. Well, in EFI car, a component can cause a lot of issues not expected to cause. Eliminate all.


IAC:
I would suggest you pull out your Idle Air control valve, clean it with carb cleaner, allow it to dry, lubricate the valve inside and mount back, making sure that the gasket is sti intact, if it has one. A clogged IAC is will give you such high symptom you guys are experiencing. IAC is a solenoid (for peugeots) and When the insides of the solenoid gets clogged with oil from crankcase breathing tube (or otherwise), the valve inside the solenoid becomes sticky and wont return or close completely when the engine starts and run for few seconds, depending on how cold the engine is. Cleaning and lubricating the valves will ensure the valve closses when it should, to avoid allowing additional unwanted air when engine is at idle.


Throttle Body,
Pull out the intake tube from air filter box and clean the throttle body thoroughly with carb cleaner, allow to dry and put back the intake tube and clamp it well. Throttle body is supposed to be cleaned once in a while, so that the butterfly opens and closses properly, to prevent unwanted extra air passing the throttle body butterfly into the intake manifold, when only IAC should be supplying air to sustain engine speed, without dropping below 700 rpm, depending on car's ignition set up.


I would advice you start with check for vacuum leak and IAC cleaning. Good luck.

*Note that above is how i would troubleshoot my lions if they get such symptom you guys have complained here.

Ikenna.

I have tried to locate the IAC valve on my camry but havent been succesful. I read somehwere that the 2az fe engines werent equipped with that.
I cleaned out my throttle body and the butterfly valve stuff in it three months ago. (it was really dirty then). And fixed it back but that didnt solve the problem. I may have to use the carb cleaner to look for a leak on my lines as u suggested. Thanks for ur input. Will keep the house updated as usual. Asides the initial high rev though, the car moves fine. Picks up speed as it should and idles like a sleeping baby. No vibrations or shaking whatsoever.

I didnt see any codes with regards to my MAF so i am ruling that one out. Scanned my car some time ago and got only EVAP systems malfunction codes and the catalyst inefficiency codes which i have fixed.

@ 9icetoo,

Its possible that your 2AZ FE doesnt have IAC. After all, my ZN3J has one, while my ES9J4S doesnt have.

In the absence of IAC and since you have ruled out your MAF, i would suggest you concentrate on Vacuum leak and TPS.

I would guide you how to test TPS with DMM, but my ZN3J has throttle switch and not TPS. Though the testing method with DMM is similar with TPS, but the values differ. You can check online on how to test TPS of your engine, that is, if your TPS is adjustable. Most older cars have adjustable TPS, meaning, all needed to be done is to test and re-adjust them when they go out of adjustment. But some newer cars, if not all, have non-adjustable TPS. Meaning, once they give less values to the factory values, you simply replace them, unlike adjustable ones which you simply re-adjust them and get your factory values back. Those where days when car manufacturers pay more attention in producing durable cars, meaning, you dont have replace some sensors when they fail. Cleaning or re-adjusting them bring them back to live. But now, they are not only interested in selling their cars and making profit, but also in making profits in car parts selling. After all, the more those sensors or parts fail, the more profit for them as they sell those parts out. It has also makes Aftermarket business more profitable these days.

Ikenna.

I forgot to add,

Pull out the connector on the TPS, check for corrosion and clean with electric contact cleaner or alcohol (dont clean plastic connectors with carburetor cleaner, it will damage them). Push back in the connector and see if any change when you start the car.

Ikenna.

I checked on some toyota forums online and a lot of people there seem to have the same issue. From the explanation i got there, it revs that much on cold start to as to warm up the cat and force oil thru the gallery to lubricate engine quicker. The car idles fine so i dont think its cos of a leak anywhere. The CTS was mentioned as the controller for the high rev. On cold start, it tells the ECU to dump more fuel into engine and opens up the butterfly valve in the throttle body. As the car gets warmed up, the ecu uses the feedback from the CTS and other sensors to adjust the amount of fuel being dumped and as such the temp comes down gradually. To the OP, you might want to check your CTS and other sensors to make sure they are alright. Thanks iyke.

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I experienced that problem twice on my 03 accord. The second incidence was only yesterday some minutes after i arrived my office. The engine was already hot after driving 30km to work so the usual morning/cold rpm of above 1000rpm doesnot apply.

After starting the car, the engine revved up to about 2000 rpm and back to the 800rpm and back to 2000 each time not staying there but just alternating. I stopped the engine and started again this time it was steady at 800rpm. I was confused as that is the second time it happened like that.

There is no check engine light too.

This appears to be an air valve issue, idle air valve probably fails intermittently to open and close. Suggest this to your mechanic,let him try cleaning it. It gets dirty from accumulation of soot