Hey!
I use a Hennesey(2000 Accord).. And I have changed my Gear Box b4.. The 2 thngs u shuld do is 1. Check d Switches.. If d nets are dirty.. If dey are let it be washed with Petrol and be returned... Den try d Car.. If it works FINE!!!
2. It may be d Fibre in d Gear Box is getting burnt... Hence.. D Bad ATF as some1 suggested...
*If u try dis 2 thngs.. And it dsnt work.. U will need to drop d Gear box 4 repairs or get a new one...

But den again.. If d car is HOT.. Wen u engage it in Reverse Mode.. Does it Pick Well
Next time it dos dat... Try driving it as a Manual Car... U will Start with Gear 1... Dats moving d Gear stick 2 d last gear... If it picks.. After some tym u push it up to "2" den '3" den D or D4 in some cases.. If d car moves WeLl... Den dat means ur gear box has gone and u need a new one...

Hope dis Helps

sultaan: 1998 CRV with high miles mean its time for a new transmission. Old fluid was dark burnt when you changed it

the fluid wasnt dark

i dont think it needs a new trasmission but a service .i.e opening it up clean and changes oil rings

most garages and dealer points you at new transmission becoz few people specialise in automatic gearbox and dealer they wont be any point to open it when the hours can come to the same price of a new one

steffans: Hey!
I use a Hennesey(2000 Accord).. And I have changed my Gear Box b4.. The 2 thngs u shuld do is 1. Check d Switches.. If d nets are dirty.. If dey are let it be washed with Petrol and be returned... Den try d Car.. If it works FINE!!!
2. It may be d Fibre in d Gear Box is getting burnt... Hence.. D Bad ATF as some1 suggested...
*If u try dis 2 thngs.. And it dsnt work.. U will need to drop d Gear box 4 repairs or get a new one...

But den again.. If d car is HOT.. Wen u engage it in Reverse Mode.. Does it Pick Well
Next time it dos dat... Try driving it as a Manual Car... U will Start with Gear 1... Dats moving d Gear stick 2 d last gear... If it picks.. After some tym u push it up to "2" den '3" den D or D4 in some cases.. If d car moves WeLl... Den dat means ur gear box has gone and u need a new one...

Hope dis Helps

ZIM DRILL:

Everything is normal except when it gets warm during driving thats when i lose drive
Shifting up and down is fine even reverse and park

i suspect the final drive gear which is inside

ZIM DRILL: My new project honda cr v 1998

Am not a novice when it comes to car but my main speciality is electronics but this is one is starting to give me headace after making the car ready for the road, from nowhere auto transmission is playing up

it has developed a problem with automatic transmission,when you start the from cold it would drive fine and changing but the moment the temperature reaches normal operatives levels that when it loses the drive the car has 140000 miles on the dash

it started when a friend slammed on the accelelator when testing the brakes after bleeding the brakes. After 15 mins of driving around the car lost drive, in D the car would behave as if it is in neutral at one point the revs and speedo would record a reading revs at 2500 speedo 20mph but the car would not move , tried all gears still nothing. Changed fluid still the same problem nothing is flashing on the dashboard
i want ideas before i open the transmission (a friends specialise in auto gearbox)tomorrow am adding transmission stop to see what happen

Since the 'D' indicator isn't flashing on the Dash and the highlighted pat above is in question. You might have to check either of these:

1. Mass Airflow meter/sensor
2. Check your fuel pump/filter/supply line.
....
3. As a last resort, check the gear sensors(first level gear-gear 1)


Good luck

viperman:


Since the 'D' indicator isn't flashing on the Dash and the highlighted pat above is in question. You might have to check either of these:

1. Mass Airflow meter/sensor
2. Check your fuel pump/filter/supply line.
....
3. As a last resort, check the gear sensors(first level gear-gear 1)


Good luck

mass sensor has nothing to do with transmission
same with fuel pump, filter or supply lines

update today i tried the last shot before i open the transmission i added an a thicker meant for transmission over 300000 miles but no luck

tomorrow am taking out the gearbox

Am sure dats wat d Car wanted Since...
Good Luck!!!!

ZIM DRILL:

i suspect a stuck valve,if clutches were worn the car would slip while shifting up or down but it does not, he drove the car while i was the passenger nothing he did that was out of the normal driving

the idea of opening it is making me feel lazy to start the job

How far with the transmission? Has the laziness gone?

Laziness? Yes, I have been a victim, or would i say, guilty of that too. Some weeks ago, i would say "I will replace my 406 V6 timing belt next Saturday". The Saturday would come, i would wake up, sigh and go back to sleep. "Make i rest and enjoy the weekend joo", I would say. Too lazy to lift a spanner, knowing what i will go through doing that belt replacement. One Public Holiday, I woke up, wanted to sigh but changed my mind. I jumped out of the bed and "Get behind me Satan!", i murmored. Lol! I changed to my work cloth, pull my tool bag and work don start be dat! No breakfast, no lunch and no water entered my stomach till around 4pm when the timing belt replacement was completed. Now, i dont remember how hungry i was that day while in the engine bay. Before the timing belt job, i was always scared to rev the car beyond 2k rpm, not knowing what would happen to the old timing belt i didnt know the mileage it has covered; not knowing the sound i might hear at that such rpm before the car stalls and the engine packs up, because i didnt get her to kiss the engine good bye. But now, hmm! Trust me, you do not want to know what i do to that throttle pedal when am in the mood, all because i conquered that laziness.

So, again, have you dealt with the laziness?

Ikenna

Ikenna351:

How far with the transmission? Has the laziness gone?

Laziness? Yes, I have been a victim, or would i say, guilty of that too. Some weeks ago, i would say "I will replace my 406 V6 timing belt next Saturday". The Saturday would come, i would wake up, sigh and go back to sleep. "Make i rest and enjoy the weekend joo", I would say. Too lazy to lift a spanner, knowing what i will go through doing that belt replacement. One Public Holiday, I woke up, wanted to sigh but changed my mind. I jumped out of the bed and "Get behind me Satan!", i murmored. Lol! I changed to my work cloth, pull my tool bag and work don start be dat! No breakfast, no lunch and no water entered my stomach till around 4pm when the timing belt replacement was completed. Now, i dont remember how hungry i was that day while in the engine bay. Before the timing belt job, i was always scared to rev the car beyond 2k rpm, not knowing what would happen to the old timing belt i didnt know the mileage it has covered; not knowing the sound i might hear at that such rpm before the car stalls and the engine packs up, because i didnt get her to kiss the engine good bye. But now, hmm! Trust me, you do not want to know what i do to that throttle pedal when am in the mood, all because i conquered that laziness.

So, again, have you dealt with the laziness?

Ikenna

well friday i had the car on stands took for track rod ends etc to prepare to take of the drive shaft then something caught my eye the water tank resevoir there was not water, then my next worry was the cooling for the transmission oil, i could take out my car to bleed my cooling system, one car was blocking it. yesterday bleed the radiator took it for a spin shocking results it was fine but still i wasnt convinced took the wheels myself and drive for 10 mins none stop, and it lost the gears

now am thinking should i get a new (used one) transmission or repair, i still have question of repairs how much will the parts cost m,e so am in a limbo

Update

Well its hard to work on your own project when consumer cars are pouring in,hence i havent took full time to do my car but to day had a little time, phoned friend in SA and he said if the clutches were gone the gearbox wouldnt wait for temperature to raise, but would not drive whether cold or hot. Advised me to checking the oil cooling lines and the cooler and also the pump, so i disconneted the oild pipe to the cooler and blocked one of the oil line to see if the oil pump is bumping, good news it was, then i went for the oil cooler which is part of the radiator, used compressed are to blown it out nothing came out and the cooler was clear took the car for a spin.

It lost gears this time i heard a noise from the diff, partked the car handbrake on put the car in drive and checked underneath the car, well surprise the prop shaft was turning raved the car and it turn faster meaning that the engine load was not being transfered to the back wheels. Not sure of my finding went to a consumer's car same as mine put the car in drive and the prop shaft wasnt turning meaning the engine load is being transfered the the wheels and the handbrake is on and the prop shaft wont turn. On mine the prop shaft is turning

I changed the diff oil when i got the car, bought the oil was from ebay and it was original honda dual pump oil but hey i guess its not tomorrow i will phone my honda dealer if they have in and pick it up on my way to he workshop

i hope the oil hasnt damaged the diff will spent the night studying the diff repair manual

ZIM DRILL: Update

Well its hard to work on your own project when consumer cars are pouring in,hence i havent took full time to do my car but to day had a little time, phoned friend in SA and he said if the clutches were gone the gearbox wouldnt wait for temperature to raise, but would not drive whether cold or hot. Advised me to checking the oil cooling lines and the cooler and also the pump, so i disconneted the oild pipe to the cooler and blocked one of the oil line to see if the oil pump is bumping, good news it was, then i went for the oil cooler which is part of the radiator, used compressed are to blown it out nothing came out and the cooler was clear took the car for a spin.

It lost gears this time i heard a noise from the diff, partked the car handbrake on put the car in drive and checked underneath the car, well surprise the prop shaft was turning raved the car and it turn faster meaning that the engine load was not being transfered to the back wheels. Not sure of my finding went to a consumer's car same as mine put the car in drive and the prop shaft wasnt turning meaning the engine load is being transfered the the wheels and the handbrake is on and the prop shaft wont turn. On mine the prop shaft is turning

I changed the diff oil when i got the car, bought the oil was from ebay and it was original honda dual pump oil but hey i guess its not tomorrow i will phone my honda dealer if they have in and pick it up on my way to he workshop

i hope the oil hasnt damaged the diff will spent the night studying the diff repair manual

Hmm! Are you saying the car rear differential work exactly like auto gearbox? Because i dont see how the differential oil temperature would determine when it would work and when not to, if its not so. Normally, rear differential are pure mechanicals, if am not mistaken. Most times, they fail by making grinding noise gradually till it seize and the wheels wont move an inch.

The test you carried out showed that your auto box was working when the car lost drive, since the propeller drive was still spinning, but wasnt driving the rear wheels, when in gear. Another simple test of rear differential, or a better one, would have been this: switch off the car leave it in park for auto box or in gear 1 for manul tranny, jack one of the rear wheels, making sure the 3 other wheels are on the ground, then turn the jacked rear wheel with your hand with some pressure. Whatever happens to that wheel will determine if the differential is intact or the culprit is elsewhere. If the jacked wheel rotate when you turn it, listen for an annoying sound from under that car, check if the propeller is spinning while you are turning the wheel. If the wheel and the propeller shaft didnt turn, while the car is not on handbrake, the gear is on 1 or drive, then your differential is ok. But if the wheel turns but the propeller didnt spin, you should be hearing some grinding noise at the rear difference. Meaning the differential has failed. This method is safer for auto trans, so that you dont spoil your auto box while testing the differential with the engine running, gear in drive and handbrake on.

But like i said, i wonder why a rear differential will work with oil temperature, just like auto box does. Or is auto box differential different from the manual one? Or is the working of Honda differential different from that of Peugeot? This thing with auto tranny!

Ikenna.

Ikenna351:

Hmm! Are you saying the car rear differential work exactly like auto gearbox? Because i dont see how the differential oil temperature would determine when it would work and when not to, if its not so. Normally, rear differential are pure mechanicals, if am not mistaken. Most times, they fail by making grinding noise gradually till it seize and the wheels wont move an inch.

The test you carried out showed that your auto box was working when the car lost drive, since the propeller drive was still spinning, but wasnt driving the rear wheels, when in gear. Another simple test of rear differential, or a better one, would have been this: switch off the car leave it in park for auto box or in gear 1 for manul tranny, jack one of the rear wheels, making sure the 3 other wheels are on the ground, then turn the jacked rear wheel with your hand with some pressure. Whatever happens to that wheel will determine if the differential is intact or the culprit is elsewhere. If the jacked wheel rotate when you turn it, listen for an annoying sound from under that car, check if the propeller is spinning while you are turning the wheel. If its not turning, while the car is not on handbrake, the gear is on 1 or drive, then your differential is ok. But if the wheel turns but the propeller didnt spin, you should be hearing some grinding noise at the rear difference. Meaning the differential has failed. This method is safer for auto trans, so that you dont spoil your auto box while testing the differential with the engine running, gear in drive and handbrake on.

But like i said, i wonder why a rear differential will work with oil temperature, just like auto box does. Or is auto box differential different from the manual one? Or is the working of Honda differential different from that of Peugeot? This thing with auto tranny!

Ikenna.

every diff has oil, mine takes a litre of honda dual pump oil. remember the gears inside heat up due to the spinning oil helps to cool down and lubricate, on mine i changed that oil with one i bought on ebay, so roughly that oil is fake, it heats up and the diff start to slip thats my roughly conclusion for now

remember that when there is load on the prop shaft (load/torque meaning that the prop shaft is being spinned by the engine via gearbox ) that load or torque get transfered to the wheels and the car moves but if the handbrake is on the prop shaft shouldnt turn since the the wheel are locked by the handbrake

On mine the prop shaft is spinning meaning the torque is not being transfered to the rear two wheels so my problem is inside the the rear diff, since the prop shaft is being turned by the gearbox transfer, dont know if you can understand thats in simple terms my gearbox is transfering torque to the back wheel via prop shaft but once the oil in there heat up the prop shaft continue spining as normal but that torque is not being transfered to the rear two wheels

so either my oil is fake since it was being sold as honda dual pump diff oil or my diff is gone now am convinced that my gearbox is fine, it able to transfer torque via prop shaft but rear diff is not able to transfer to wheels

ZIM DRILL:


every diff has oil, mine takes a litre of honda dual pump oil. remember the gears inside heat up due to the spinning oil helps to cool down and lubricate, on mine i changed that oil with one i bought on ebay, so roughly that oil is fake, it heats up and the diff start to slip thats my roughly conclusion for now

remember that when there is load on the prop shaft (load/torque meaning that the prop shaft is being spinned by the engine via gearbox ) that load or torque get transfered to the wheels and the car moves but if the handbrake is on the prop shaft shouldnt turn since the the wheel are locked by the handbrake

On mine the prop shaft is spinning meaning the torque is not being transfered to the rear two wheels so my problem is inside the the rear diff, since the prop shaft is being turned by the gearbox transfer, dont know if you can understand thats in simple terms my gearbox is transfering torque to the back wheel via prop shaft but once the oil in there heat up the prop shaft continue spining as normal but that torque is not being transfered to the rear two wheels

so either my oil is fake since it was being sold as honda dual pump diff oil or my diff is gone now am convinced that my gearbox is fine, it able to transfer torque via prop shaft but rear diff is not able to transfer to wheels

Of course, i understood your explanation in the earlier post, which was why i ruled out your gearbox. What i didnt understand was why the differential would work only when the differential oil is cold, unlike mine that would work whether there is oil in it or not, except that without oil, friction will kill it very quickly. But no matter how bad oil is in mine, it will work, but will become noisy, which will make the bearings inside to die gradually, among other things. My point is that it will work as long as there is oil in it, whether its bad oil or not, whether the oil temp is cold or hot. Thats why am confused yours works differently.

Well, your explanation indicates that your differential works like auto gearbox: slippery when fake oil is used at hot temperature. Am i right?

Ikenna

By the way, its your rear differential LSD (Limited Slip Differential)? If it is, was the oil you refilled it with an LSD oil? If not, it could be the cause of the problem. Some people do add additive though, when they cant find LSD oil.

Ikenna

Ikenna351:

Of course, i understood your explanation in the earlier post, which was why i ruled out your gearbox. What i didnt understand was why the differential would work only when the differential oil is cold, unlike mine that would work whether there is oil in it or not, except that without oil, friction will kill it very quickly. But no matter how bad oil is in mine, it will work, but will become noisy, which will make the bearings inside to die gradually, among other things. My point is that it will work as long as there is oil in it, whether its bad oil or not, whether the oil temp is cold or hot. Thats why am confused yours works differently.

Well, your explanation indicates that your differential works like auto gearbox: slippery when fake oil is used at hot temperature. Am i right?

Ikenna

Well the service manual says always use the honda dual pump oil, when i picked the car it drove very fine 15 miles away then me being a mechanic i changed oil to start my own service history but instead of going to the dealer(dealers here can be expensive for no reason, we call them STEALERS ) to get oil i choose ebay which i now suspect that the oil is fake

now am realising that this problem come after the oil change, as for LSD i got no clue since i have the service manual i will have a look on the notes

yes it seems to work like autobox

thats my rear diff in the photo

You will have to go to your nearest stealer and take it like a champ

If you have a LSD the usually use a friction modifier/ additive read up on it and your transfer case if it 4x4

the rear differential of most cars uses thick oils 75w to 90w.
what was the viscocity of the oil you put?....

from experience on cars forums..most people advice against using 'OEM' like/equivalent fluids...as most of them are junk!

also on the rear differential fluid.....hope you poured in the excat amout as stated in your manual?....is the car fulltime 4wd or selectable 4wd?...if fulltime 4wd..does it use viscous coupling.. ? the 2nd gen rav4 even though its full time 4wd has the viscous coupling system

Update

Just to double check drained the rear diff and top up with gearbox oil took it for spin it slipped, parked it in gear reved it, prop shaft responded as normal but the wheels wouldnt move, for sure the diff is gone waited 10 mins for it to cool down then drive to the work shop . Striped it down and opened it, the differential gears are perfect, then opened the other housing, surprise the diff has clutch plate, my friend the chief mechanic says there are fine. myself couldnt tell am not after repairing but wanted to know how it is inside, phoned the local scrapyard they got one, they will pull it off the car and phone to pick it up
tomorrow the honda will be back on the road

Update gearbox out opened it up clutches gone will take photos to show the worn out clutches, rebuilt kit cost £60 have got the time to do the rebuilt will buy another and keep the old one for later rebuilding

Happens.

Once you change the fluid and still have the same problem technicians always replace transmission because of the labor cost is high and at that age you will need one soon

sultaan: Happens.

Once you change the fluid and still have the same problem technicians always replace transmission because of the labor cost is high and at that age you will need one soon

Labour cost doesnt affect me as i was to do it myself but the time to do it is hard to get when people come with there own cars for fixing, am left with 6 hours free time for myself every week,sundays we dont work saturday i do charity work,radio dj for internet based station

https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/honda-automatic-gearbox-problems


Get more info from this link.

the project CRV is back on the road changed the transmission and rear diff will upload photos and video

already pimped with a remote start will go on to put tints at the rear windows, later auto window roll up and finally change wheels to alloys

Did you change or rebuild your transmission.
A kit for 60 is cheap.

I was going to ask if you had to replace the clutch for the high gear or low gears too and what else was involved

sultaan: Did you change or rebuild your transmission.
A kit for 60 is cheap.

I was going to ask if you had to replace the clutch for the high gear or low gears too and what else was involved

yes the rebuild kit was £50 but with my ever busy life i choose to get a second hand one, then rebuilt the knackered one life