I know it is expensive as an average Nigerian to properly service a car according to owners manual with oem parts. We can still attempt to do it but in a Nigerian way avoiding some major cost.

I serviced my 2003 Honda accord I4 yesterday with very good results. Items required;

1 5litre gallon of milemaster 5W20 engine oil N6,000
Oil filter N1,000
Set of 4 unused Tokumbo NGK 6994 IZFR6K-11 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs N1,000
1 can of Carb cleaner

The list should have been more than this or better than these but that was what is affordable.

Change of oil went through the usual process. Plugs were removed and the tokumbo unused plugs was brushed with iron brush, regapped to 11mm with a gapping tool then sprayed with carb cleaner and installed.

Air filter was removed and blown by a vulcanizer.

The result was obviously positive.

I plan to in the next service;
-Change the air filter which according to the manual be replaced after every 30,000miles.

-Inspect and adjust valves which the manual states 110kmiles as the due time and my car is at 118kmiles at the moment. Valve adjustment specs for 2003 accord K24A1
Intake: 0.21-0.25mm (0.008-0.010in)
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32mm (0.011-0.013in)

-Change gear oil with Genuine Honda DW1 ATF found in Konga for N1,800 for 1litre. I will buy 3 which will cost N5,400 plus 1k shipping making 6.4k. According to manual its due at 120kmiles.

-Change engine coolant which is at Konga too and due at 120kmiles and subsequently every 60kmiles.

The ones i have not planned are brake fluid replacement (every 3years) and power steering oil replacement. I do rotate my tires every 10kmiles.

Mind you, that check engine light is due to Air/fuel ratio sensor which i have been looking for for months now.

What are your car's recommendation and how close arw you to doing service according to the manual?

Good job. I did my servicing 5 days ago. Will upload pix later.

How I fit service my horn, wey no dey blow,fiam fiam, if I test direct,it go blow, when I press the switch on the steering, it caput.

indigene:
How I fit service my horn, wey no dey blow,fiam fiam, if I test direct,it go blow, when I press the switch on the steering, it caput.

Sounds like a dead relay.

adanny01:
I know it is expensive as an average Nigerian to properly service a car according to owners manual with oem parts. We can still attempt to do it but in a Nigerian way avoiding some major cost.

I serviced my 2003 Honda accord I4 yesterday with very good results. Items required;

1 5litre gallon of milemaster 5W20 engine oil N6,000
Oil filter N1,000
Set of 4 unused Tokumbo NGK 6994 IZFR6K-11 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs N1,000
1 can of Carb cleaner

The list should have been more than this or better than these but that was what is affordable.

Change of oil went through the usual process. Plugs were removed and the tokumbo unused plugs was brushed with iron brush, regapped to 11mm with a gapping tool then sprayed with carb cleaner and installed.

Air filter was removed and blown by a vulcanizer.

The result was obviously positive.

I plan to in the next service;
-Change the air filter which according to the manual be replaced after every 30,000miles.

-Inspect and adjust valves which the manual states 110kmiles as the due time and my car is at 118kmiles at the moment. Valve adjustment specs for 2003 accord K24A1
Intake: 0.21-0.25mm (0.008-0.010in)
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32mm (0.011-0.013in)

-Change gear oil with Genuine Honda DW1 ATF found in Konga for N1,800 for 1litre. I will buy 3 which will cost N5,400 plus 1k shipping making 6.4k. According to manual its due at 120kmiles.

-Change engine coolant which is at Konga too and due at 120kmiles and subsequently every 60kmiles.

The ones i have not planned are brake fluid replacement (every 3years) and power steering oil replacement. I do rotate my tires every 10kmiles.

Mind you, that check engine light is due to Air/fuel ratio sensor which i have been looking for for months now.

What are your car's recommendation and how close arw you to doing service according to the manual?

Have you done the valves check/adjustment? Should be doing this too

Piyke:


Have you done the valves check/adjustment? Should be doing this too

I recently clocked 123,000 miles which is the 5000 miles service due distance. I seriously want to do that task. 2 days ago i was reading about it and realized i need to purchase and install a new valve cover gasket after the adjustment. It will now depend on when i can get all that and the valve gap gauge considering that its far into January and have to throw a 1 yr birthday to my son.

double post

adanny01:


I recently clocked 123,000 miles which is the 5000 miles service due distance. I seriously want to do that task. 2 days ago i was reading about it and realized i need to purchase and install a new valve cover gasket after the adjustment. It will now depend on when i can get all that and the valve gap gauge considering that its far into January and have to throw a 1 yr birthday to my son.

Congrats to you and son!
I know mine is overdue, started having some chatter with the hood open. Should be picking up the valve cover gasket over the weekend. My parts guy told me he has an original one for 4k don't think its OEM though. I haven't seen enough videos do hit this DIY. Still perusing materials cause its surely going to be a DIY, as I'm guessing my mechanic would ask me why I want to do it.

What do u mean by unused tokunboh plug. Can a toks plug be unused

chukel:
What do u mean by unused tokunboh plug. Can a toks plug be unused

Thats a little exaggerated if you consider the literal meaning but meant to say 'in very good condition'. I seriously did not know why some come in such good condition but i got from a large pool of plugs that are bound with tape in 4s. Majority are obviously used but you could get one or two from some good sets of 4 that looks almost unused (free of carbon and absolute white electrode with almost no burn marks). About 90% would be reasonably used. The others if used, probably for some minutes but not long to deteriorate physically. I should have taken a picture of the last one i bought. I buy 2 sets and choose 4 out of 8 and let them have the others for a discount. For this one, i had made a request and even gave one of my original plugs as a sample and got the set after two weeks. There are so many plugs in different types and brands, NGK, Denso you name it. Platinum, Iridum. 1, 2 and 4 ground electrode. The iridium tipped are with tiny tips and he says those people with commercial boxer buses are in high demand for it.

I am still searching for a perfect replacement for my car because my car manual recommends NGK izfr6k-11 but i only got NGK izfr6k-13. The 11 means gap of 1.1mm and 13 means gap of 1.3mm. I read that the 1.3 actually has better fuel economy. There was another variant i saw izfr5k-11. On research, i learnt that the difference in the number 5 and 6 implies 6 is a newer model and runs cooler that 5 and more suitable for racing while 5 is more suitable for cars that idle much which 6 may foul.

Edited: i just consulted the manual and saw that izfr6k-13 is actually recommended but was written as 'on some models', dont know what that means.

Piyke:


Congrats to you and son!
I know mine is overdue, started having some chatter with the hood open. Should be picking up the valve cover gasket over the weekend. My parts guy told me he has an original one for 4k don't think its OEM though. I haven't seen enough videos do hit this DIY. Still perusing materials cause its surely going to be a DIY, as I'm guessing my mechanic would ask me why I want to do it.

Thanks.

Had to do some other works changed front engine mount that broke and inner tie rod end that was wearing my tire.