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Olu Okeowo N2 Billion Garage: 6 Rolls Royce, 4 Phantoms, 2 Ghosts, 1 Bentley / LandRover Unveils Its Most Expensive Model Ever,£177k RangeRover SVAutobiograhy / Countries And Cars They Produce (1) (2) (3) (4)
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 11:12am On Mar 13, 2016|
Free Scan and Auto Advice for LandRover / Range Rover owners in Jos, Minna and Bauchi......
Please call 08099725628 or 08052891092 if interested.
Over and Beyond....
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 1:44am On Mar 15, 2016|
Upgrading to the latest software for better and more efficient services.
It's all about keeping you on the road anyday, anytime, without hassles!
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 2:13am On Mar 16, 2016|
... Rear Stay arm got sheared off, bold was rusted and old then simply snapped.
Broken bolt made such that we had to change the whole hub bracket..... pretty hectic Job
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:41pm On Mar 17, 2016|
Arrived Jos, looking forward to meeting up with a nairalander!
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by dumo1(m): 1:09am On Mar 18, 2016|
The software that you are installing on the laptop is it for the range rover sport?
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 8:29am On Mar 18, 2016|
2007 Range Rover Sport SC for sale...... Client wants to sell to upgrade to a newer version....!
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 8:37am On Mar 18, 2016|
Yes, JLR SDD 1.44
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 9:14am On Mar 20, 2016|
Free Scan in Bauchi Tomorrow...... Called 08099725628 or
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 1:03am On Mar 27, 2016|
Keeping a full tank keeps your car healthy.
Experts that are familiar with the common fuel injection
system will tell you that running out of gas can cause serious
fuel line problems - and that running low can be detrimental,
too. Running out of gas in a fuel injected car can allow small
particles of dirt and rust that are concentrated at the bottom
of the gas tank, and when the fuel pump sucks them up, some
of that dirt can work its way past the fuel filter, into the
injectors. A clean fuel filter and new filtration technologies can
help to minimize the dangers of running consistently low on
Saves you from CEL displaying always.
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 6:07pm On Mar 27, 2016|
Happy Easter everyone!! God bless you all.............
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 12:02am On Mar 31, 2016|
Driving around Lagos, I catch myself spying Land Rover owners and spotting faults on their cars......
I even peeps to check the lights showing on the instrument panel.
I am however rather shy to approach some except when ultimately necessary.
I have seen more than 7 Range Rover Sport (supercharged) leaning to the right this week, they are still being driven in that condition as either the owner doesn't care or he/she has gotten tired of trying to get it resolved....
Its pretty much easier than it looks. The mechanical suspension is not responsible, rather the dynamic response system is faulty and will most definitely flash [vehicle will leans while cornering] many of us are familiar with this.....
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 12:08am On Mar 31, 2016|
The DSC is made up of both the Mechanical Suspension and Dynamic Response System......
There is however a separate hydraulic circuit and reservoir for the
Dynamic Response System (AKA anti-rollover) and this is filled
with PS fluid (spec Texaco CC 33270).
This is the blood that makes that system function.. scheduled maintenance stipulates 75, 000 miles
Give us a call let's fix these issues for you....!!
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:04am On Apr 05, 2016|
Just got this from the Technical bulletin!!
Glass, Frames and Mechanisms - Door Window Motor Initialization
1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one- touch" up function.
• NOTE: Make sure a minimum of 2 minutes from initial disconnect of battery has elapse prior to reconnecting the battery. The initialising of the window glass motor must be conducted with the engine running. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds.
2. Release the window control switch.
3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds.
4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully open position ("one-touch" down).
5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up) automatically.
• NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("one-touch" up), repeat the complete procedure. Operate the window control switch once to the close position.
6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window motor.
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 4:43pm On Apr 05, 2016|
2005 LR 3
- Faulty Suspension
- Bad Alternator
- Leaking Brake oil
- Extended Mode when lowering [most annoying for the customer]
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by tmanis(m): 1:49pm On Apr 08, 2016|
1 Like 1 Share
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 11:43am On Apr 12, 2016|
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 3:55pm On Apr 12, 2016|
So the LR3 is finally working fine......
Changed Rear Valve block, control valve and suspension pump......
No more suspension lights, no more bumpy rides
However, client had a welder attach a metal beam to support the sidesteps, this beam was welded unto the reservoir.......
Now the its leaking.... Guess I know why the suspension pump went bad.
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 8:11pm On Apr 16, 2016|
Roadside assistance granted…………… Surely, well get you over and beyond.
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:15pm On Apr 16, 2016|
Rear Corner valve block changed.
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:17pm On Apr 16, 2016|
Rear Right Height sensor changed
Control Valve, fitted with new Pressure sensor..
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:18pm On Apr 16, 2016|
2003 Range Rover, client complained about oil losses in the engine, vehicle was brought in. No oil drops on the floor and oil leaks on the side of the engine, weren't substantial enough.....
Oil grade used was 5w30 Mobil 1 USA, so oil didnt burn.
Loosened the "Valve covers" to find the coils and spark plugs all submerged in oil (See first picture).
This was caused by the completely bad seals on the "Valve covers".
Spark Plugs Changed, Seals Changed, Engine washed and all is good.
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 6:48pm On Apr 18, 2016|
There are 3 things you need to be wary about in making sure your Land Rover Stays on the road these are:
1. Overheating: This is the prime way Land Rover owners loose the planned enjoyment of their cars. Please pay attention to the temperature gauge while driving, watch out for leaks on the floor and most especially pay attention to any sluggish gear changes (Viscous fan could be responsible)
2. Oils : Correct oil for the engine and correct oil for the transmission. Inspected a car an LR3 that was serviced with (
Mobilube XHP 75W-90
Mobilube XHP 75W-90 is an extra-high performance oil primarily intended for the lubrication of manual transmissions. It is formulated from very highly refined mineral oils and a new technology additive system to achieve a level of performance which is beyond that possible with conventional mineral oil-based products, and provides excellent resistance to thermal degradation and oxidation. Mobilube XHP 75W-90 is compatible with synchromesh systems in both passenger cars and commercial vehicles and offers an enhanced shift quality with extremely smooth gear changes.
) because his engine is old and 5W-30 is for new cars.
I could not believe my ears.
3. Fuel: Enough has been said about this. However like I said earlier on this thread keeping a healthy fuel lifestyle is good for your fuel supply system. Keeps ur fuel pump, fuel filter and nozzles clean. Injector cleaners don't work in these cars.
However, I have noticed from observation that cars which use Octane Boosters have less fuel supply issues.
1 Like 2 Shares
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 6:58pm On Apr 18, 2016|
What's written on your oil bottle, and what does it mean?
This post may seem like going back to basics but I'm constantly
surprised by the number of people who do not know, or understand,
what is written on a bottle of oil, and therefore have no idea what
they are buying/using.
To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the
following basic information then DO NOT buy it! Look for something
1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)
2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w40, 5w30 etc for Motor oils and
80w90, 75w90, etc for Gear oils)
3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and
4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e.
MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label - in many cases it's
meaningless and I'll explain later what statements you should treat
with some scepticism.
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
All oils are intended for an application and in general are not
interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic
Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It's important to
know what the oil's intended purpose is.
Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply
means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old
routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or
watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil
must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The
lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within
certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils
that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the
number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at
100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc
Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the
oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests, or whether
the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. There are two
specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these
are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des
Constructeurs Europeens d'Automobiles) all good oils should contain
both of these, and an understanding of what they mean is important.
This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two
catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol
(S) and diesel (C) specifications.
The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil
SG - Introduced 1989 - has much more active dispersant to combat
SH - Introduced 1993 - has same engine tests as SG, but includes
phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and
SJ - Introduced 1996 - has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but
phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits
SL - Introduced 2001 - all new engine tests reflective of modern
engine designs meeting current emissions standards
SM - Introduced November 2004 - improved oxidation resistance,
deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature
performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.
All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and, although suitable
for some older vehicles, are more than 10 years old, and do not
provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to
date SL and SM specifications.
CD - Introduced 1955 - international standard for turbo diesel
engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only
CE - Introduced 1984 - improved control of oil consumption, oil
thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder
CF4 - Introduced 1990 - further improvements in control of oil
consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine
CF - Introduced 1994 - modernised version of CD, reverts to single
cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect
CF2 - Introduced 1994 - defines effective control of cylinder
deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines
CG4 - Introduced 1994 - development of CF4 giving improved
control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot
entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests
CH4 - Introduced 1998 - development of CG4, giving further
improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses
more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high
CI4 Introduced 2002 - developed to meet 2004 emission standards,
may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are
fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used
where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.
All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and, although
suitable for some older vehicles, are more than 10 years old and do
not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more
up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.
If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for
SL, SM, CH4, CI4
This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in
what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel
and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash,
Phosphorus and Sulphur).
Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application
catagories as follows:
A1 Fuel economy petrol
A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
A3 High performance and/or extended drain
A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance
B1 Fuel economy diesel
B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
B3 High performance and/or extended drain
B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance
C1-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04
low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04
mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04
mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, higher performance levels
due to higher HTHS.
Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.
Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality,
stay in grade performance oils.
Many oils mention various OEM's on the bottle, the most common in
the UK being VW, MB or BMW but do not be misled into thinking
that you are buying a top oil because of this.
Oil Companies send their oils to OEM's for approval however some
older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest
of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and
better quality/performance than the older ones.
Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending
on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are
looking for a quality high performance oil:
VW - 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00
Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing
more up to date oils
MB - 229.1
Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to
BMW - LL98
Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to
Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into
too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding
Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing
blurb, here are a few to avoid!
Recommended for use where.....
May be used where the following specifications apply.....
Approved by...........(but with no qualification)
Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements
are paid for)
Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)
Also be wary of statements like "synthetic blend" if you are looking
for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.
Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the
oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels.
- By Simon from the Porsche 968 website.
Changing your oil and your oil filter are necessary to keep your car's
engine running well.
2 Likes 1 Share
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:19am On Apr 24, 2016|
Its been a long week..... Lots of repairs going on internally.
A faulty brake light switch, could be the cause of all your woes......
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 5:40pm On Apr 24, 2016|
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by dapsy4u2(m): 4:36pm On Apr 26, 2016|
keep up the good job!
1 Like 1 Share
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by EgunMogaji: 6:35am On Apr 27, 2016|
I spotted this in Ibadan and I thought of you. You can fix it up.
I think the air suspension was all screwed up. It was making a god awful sound as it bumped along on that road.
1 Like 1 Share
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 9:04am On Apr 29, 2016|
Yes Sir! I would definitely fix it up if called upon.
Driving a Range with suspension issues causes more damage.....
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 10:57am On May 13, 2016|
Tokunbo LR4 nozzles with rail. Kinda sad that faulty nozzles on new models can't be serviced!
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 9:50am On May 19, 2016|
Re-invent your Automobile Experience ......................
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 9:40am On May 21, 2016|
Nothing beats using the recommended oil for a vehicle, despite cost implications I am going to stick with CASTROL Edge
|Re: T's Garage (landrover And Cars) by LeJeun3: 3:47pm On May 21, 2016|
Imported so quality is guaranteed...
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