MPVGoddess:


check two things:

in this order

- is the wiring bad but the sensor good? then repair the wiring

- is the sensor bad but the wiring is good? then replace the sensor

actually if you are mechanically minded you could do this test yourself - locate the sensors ( they should be two of them, i assume that vehicle uses a V6, on both sides of the engine. run your hands through the wiring if the shield is bad, then fix it for all of them that are bad.

If you aren't comfortable doing this, then any mechanic familiar with Nissan Quest 1999 - 2002 can assist you


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYwHOn4NhMY

Hello my Bros in the house... After my last scanned, I did worked on my car myself. From locating the knock sensor to hitting hammer on the front O2 sensor and I noticed a valve that is drawing air into the engine(i Don hammer am serious screw to block am).

I re scan my car just now am I got this only


P0180
P1336
P0325
That's the only code in pending codes but only got
P0325 from stored code

On checking my dash board, my check engine light is off. And from 7 codes am back to just 3 in pending but just one on stored.

Also, I have this

Since DTC's cleared

MIL OFF
FUEL OK
CCM OK
CAT INC
HCAT N/A
EVAP INC
AIR N/A
O2S INC
HTR INC
EGR INC.

AM I IN SERIOUS TROUBLE

Cc b erico2k2 mayor2013 GAZZUZZ cocoduck Siena

princemillla:

P0180


P1336
P0325

AM I IN SERIOUS TROUBLE

P0180 NISSAN - Fuel Temperature Sensor

Possible causes
- Faulty Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor
- Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

When is the code detected?
An excessively high or low voltage is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM).

Possible symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

P0180 Nissan Description

The fuel tank temperature sensor is used to detect the fuel temperature inside the fuel tank. The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM). The modified signal returns to the ECM as the fuel temperature input. The sensor uses a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases.

Solution

If the first step was to check what code you have, then the next step is to check or replaced the fuel tank temperature sensor. Depending on your Nissan model year, the sensor is with the fuel level sender unit inside the fuel tank.

Read more: http://www.autocodes.com/p0180_nissan.html#ixzz49CujeLNv

MPVGoddess:


P0180 NISSAN - Fuel Temperature Sensor

Possible causes
- Faulty Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor
- Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

When is the code detected?
An excessively high or low voltage is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM).

Possible symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

P0180 Nissan Description

The fuel tank temperature sensor is used to detect the fuel temperature inside the fuel tank. The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM). The modified signal returns to the ECM as the fuel temperature input. The sensor uses a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases.

Solution

If the first step was to check what code you have, then the next step is to check or replaced the fuel tank temperature sensor. Depending on your Nissan model year, the sensor is with the fuel level sender unit inside the fuel tank.

Read more: http://www.autocodes.com/p0180_nissan.html#ixzz49CujeLNv

Thank you bro, as its now. It seems nothing is working in my fuel thank perhaps current is not getting there as my fuel gauge refuse to read. Am going to have it remove tomorrow morning. Is that the main headache here Bro?

princemillla:


P0180


P1336
P0325

AM I IN SERIOUS TROUBLE


Thank you bro, as its now. It seems nothing is working in my fuel thank perhaps current is not getting there as my fuel gauge refuse to read. Am going to have it remove tomorrow morning. Is that the main headache here Bro?

P1336 NISSAN - Crankshaft Position Sensor

Possible causes
- Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor
- Crankshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Crankshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Signal plate may be damage
- Starter motor may be faulty
- Starting system circuit
- Dead or weak battery

Tech notes
Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can can trigger a Crankshaft Position Sensor code. Before replacing any parts, recharge or replaced battery.

When is the code detected?
- The crankshaft position sensor (POS) signal is not detected by the ECM during the first few seconds of engine cranking
- The proper pulse signal from the crankshaft position sens

Possible symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Lack/Loss of Power
- Engine Stall
- Engine difficult to start

P1336 Nissan Description

The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) also known as the crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning. This information is used by the Engine Control Module (ECM) to control ignition and fuel injection. The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor.

When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. The change in the magnetic field cause the voltage from the sensor to change.

Read more: http://www.autocodes.com/p1336_nissan.html#ixzz49D8LIq6G


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9DQWP8jAtc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73P0mGyvOm0

princemillla:



Thank you bro, as its now. It seems nothing is working in my fuel thank perhaps current is not getting there as my fuel gauge refuse to read. Am going to have it remove tomorrow morning. Is that the main headache here Bro?

i cannot say which is more important

to me P0180 and P1336 can be ranked almost the same in seriousness
I think you should fix both at the same time, but start with the P0180 (BECAUSE YOU NEED TO BE ABLE TO READ THE FUEL GUAGE) then P1336 then P0325

Please help with this issue.

A 2000 sienna just stalled and all attempt to start proved abortive.

The kazeem said its ignition sensor.

The scan shows the following codes.

P1300 igniter circuit fault 1

P0340 camshaft positions sensor.

I need advice on how to go about it..

Regards

politician:
Please help with this issue.

A 2000 sienna just stalled and all attempt to start proved abortive.

The kazeem said its ignition sensor.

The scan shows the following codes.

P1300[i][/i] igniter circuit fault 1

P0340 camshaft positions sensor.

I need advice on how to go about it..

Regards

Possible cause




Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

When is the code detected?
The P1300 code is for the ignition coil No.1 and is set when there is no IGF signal to the ECM during engine operation.
Possible symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)


P1300 Toyota Description

Direct Ignition System (DIS) is a 1-cylinder ignition system that ignites one cylinder with one ignition coil. Ignitor is integral to ignition coil. The Engine Control Module (ECM) determines ignition timing and outputs a ignition signal (IGT) for each cylinder. Based on the IGT signals, power transistors in the ignitor cut of current to primary coil in ignition coil, causing ignition coil to fire spark plug. After delivering a command to turn off primary circuit




Code p0340

Possible causes

- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery


Tech notes

Sometimes and in some models, low battery voltage or a weak starter can can trigger a Camshaft Position Sensor code.
What does this mean? What does this mean?
When is the code detected?
The camshaft position sensor signal is not detected by the Engine Control Module(ECM) during the first few seconds of engine cranking

Possible symptoms

- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Lack/Loss of Power
- Engine Stall

P0340 Description

The Camshaft Position Sensor is an electronic device used in an engine to record the rate at which the camshaft is spinning. This information is used by the Engine Control Module(ECM) to control ignition and fuel injection. The camshaft position sensor senses the retraction of camshaft (intake) to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor senses the piston position. The sensor system consists of a rotating part, typically a disc, as well as a static part, the actual sensor.

When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. The change in the magnetic field cause the voltage from the sensor to change.

When the crankshaft position sensor (POS) system becomes inoperative, the camshaft position sensor provides various controls of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification signals.


Nb: I am not a mechanic, just gave result of the code u posted based on means i av learnt so far from my gurus

P0325

is equally important

because it ensures the car engine does not somehow harm itself while processing the air/fuel mixture

Possible Causes

A code P0325 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit

Possible Solutions
Check the resistance of the knock sensor (compare it to factory specs)
Check for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor
Replace the knock sensor

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0325
Copyright OBD-Codes.com


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pW7JTDCNzQ


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln8XgFWKO6Q

like I said before:

MPVGoddess:


Now that you mention Knock sensor, not all knock sensor codes come from a faulty knock sensor.

I thought I had a faulty knock sensor, and so got a new one, still the codes would come back so I traced the wiring to the ECU and discovered that they were shot, so I can new wires to the knock sensor and the one I had in the car still worked, so I didn't have to use the new, point is, I recall that his vehicle was recently worked on, and several wiring gremlins appeared, so please rule out faulty wiring before getting a new knock sensor

princemillla:



Thank you bro, as its now. It seems nothing is working in my fuel thank perhaps current is not getting there as my fuel gauge refuse to read. Am going to have it remove tomorrow morning. Is that the main headache here Bro?

If ur guage isn't working it will throw the fuel temperature code

Did u work on d fuel pump recently?

diportivo:



If ur guage isn't working it will throw the fuel temperature code

Did u work on d fuel pump recently?

Bro, thanks so much, as I said I will check today. On opening the thank I found out my Guage has been removed. May be thats why it's giving fuel Tank temp sensor code.

That's will be sorted by monday to replace the Guage and then rescan for new update.

Lastly, my mech told me I will av to have my nuzzle cover removed to access the knock sensor.

How reliable pls

princemillla:


Bro, thanks so much, as I said I will check today. On opening the thank I found out my Guage has been removed. May be thats why it's giving fuel Tank temp sensor code.

That's will be sorted by monday to replace the Guage and then rescan for new update.

Lastly, my mech told me I will av to have my nuzzle cover removed to access the knock sensor.

How reliable pls

No fuel guage = tank temperature code....very sure

What ur mech means is "intake manifold" and not nozzle cover

Yes,it has to be removed to access the knock sensor

diportivo:


No fuel guage = tank temperature code....very sure

What ur mech means is "intake manifold" and not nozzle cover

Yes,it has to be removed to access the knock sensor

Yes that's ts it. Manifold

politician:
Please help with this issue.

A 2000 sienna just stalled and all attempt to start proved abortive.

The kazeem said its ignition sensor.

The scan shows the following codes.

P1300 igniter circuit fault 1

P0340 camshaft positions sensor.

I need advice on how to go about it..

Regards

Change your CPS.

princemillla:


Bro, thanks so much, as I said I will check today. On opening the thank I found out my Guage has been removed. May be thats why it's giving fuel Tank temp sensor code.

That's will be sorted by monday to replace the Guage and then rescan for new update.

Lastly, my mech told me I will av to have my nuzzle cover removed to access the knock sensor.

How reliable pls

who removed it?

erico2k2:

who removed it?

That's the way I bought it yes. I didn't noticed it at all.

erico2k2:

who removed it?

Hello Bro, Good morning.

I Have since been working on the car. Av worked on the o2 sensor both front and back, av fix the guage, the tank temperature se sensor, and av service the engine. But still guzzle fuel. I can now read the fuel consumption.

I need help on what next to worked on

Cocoduck mayor123

princemillla:


Hello Bro, Good morning.

I Have since been working on the car. Av worked on the o2 sensor both front and back, av fix the guage, the tank temperature se sensor, and av service the engine. But still guzzle fuel. I can now read the fuel consumption.

I need help on what next to worked on

Cocoduck mayor123

What was changed are you sure they are in a working condition? Hope ypur fans are not connected directly? Is your car still installed with its catalytic conveter. Check all this I just mentioned

princemillla:


Hello Bro, Good morning.

I Have since been working on the car. Av worked on the o2 sensor both front and back, av fix the guage, the tank temperature se sensor, and av service the engine. But still guzzle fuel. I can now read the fuel consumption.

I need help on what next to worked on

Cocoduck mayor123

The O2 sensors are they new ones?

mayor2013:


What was changed are you sure they are in a working condition? Hope ypur fans are not connected directly? Is your car still installed with its catalytic conveter. Check all this I just mentioned

There is no catalyst on the car but av rekit the pot wit net as advised by one Kazeem.

The o2 sensor wasn't new but tokunbo but was tested and they gave me assurance it will work

But I don't seems to get the part that says my fan connected direct sir. Pls help me explain

Erico2k2

princemillla:




There is no catalyst on the car but av rekit the pot wit net as advised by one Kazeem.

The o2 sensor wasn't new but tokunbo but was tested and they gave me assurance it will work

But I don't seems to get the part that says my fan connected direct sir. Pls help me explain

Erico2k2

Re kitting you Cat converter was waste of money as you just succeeded i n choking your exhaust system I'm sure they just used ordinary wire mesh.The core substance in your converter is platinum and Rhodium, one is oxidizing the other is a reduction agent..Your cat converter is just to treat deadly and harmful exhaust gas into less deadly and harmful exhaust gas B4 it passes to the atmosphere.As for your fan wired Directly, I'm struggling to see the relationship of that with your problem

erico2k2:

Re kitting you Cat converter was waste of money as you just succeeded i n choking your exhaust system I'm sure they just used ordinary wire mesh.The core substance in your converter is platinum and Rhodium, one is oxidizing the other is a reduction agent..Your cat converter is just to treat deadly and harmful exhaust gas into less deadly and harmful exhaust gas B4 it passes to the atmosphere.As for your fan wired Directly, I'm struggling to see the relationship of that with your problem

Fan directly connected definitely contribute significantly to a car fuel consumption .Some cars will perpetually remain in open loop condition and some will take forever to achieve closed loop .The effect will spell doom for that engine apart from high fuel consumption.

erico2k2:

Re kitting you Cat converter was waste of money as you just succeeded i n choking your exhaust system I'm sure they just used ordinary wire mesh.The core substance in your converter is platinum and Rhodium, one is oxidizing the other is a reduction agent..Your cat converter is just to treat deadly and harmful exhaust gas into less deadly and harmful exhaust gas B4 it passes to the atmosphere.As for your fan wired Directly, I'm struggling to see the relationship of that with your problem

So Bro I should buy another catalyst right

honmusa:

Fan directly connected definitely contribute significantly to a car fuel consumption .Some cars will perpetually remain in open loop condition and some will take forever to achieve closed loop .The effect will spell doom for that engine apart from high fuel consumption.

Plz xplain how

princemillla:



So Bro I should buy another catalyst right

you need to check if the ones you have is faulty
does ur mechanic have a multimeter?

erico2k2:

you need to check if the ones you have is faulty
does ur mechanic have a multimeter?

U mean the o2 sensor or catalyst now.

If it's the o2, it was tested and I confirm it reads myself.

It reads about 5 to 6... .

If it's catalyst, I don't think i have one. Wat I have av is a mesh chocked inside the catalyst pot and it doesnt seems to bother my car breathing or hinder my temperature. But the aspects of this oxidation and reduction agent is wat am somewhat concern with

honmusa:

Fan directly connected definitely contribute significantly to a car fuel consumption .Some cars will perpetually remain in open loop condition and some will take forever to achieve closed loop .The effect will spell doom for that engine apart from high fuel consumption.

Pls elucidate further. Which fan, the rad fan?

And if it's connected direct, how should I correct it. Pls
Can't cope with this 3k fuel from sango to ikotun anymore

Sorry I couldn't read through everything because of the bickering about who knows best about detecting vacuum leaks and all that.. Means I don't know specifics of your engine and the layout of your exhaust but I can tell you off the bat that the "brainbox" calculates and regulates how much fuel is pumped into each cylinder based on the values obtained from the oxygen sensors in an effort to maintain stoichiometry (ideal fuel-air mixture for combustion) , the "brainbox" corrects a lean (more air than fuel) gas stream in the exhaust by increasing the volume of fuel pumped into the engine, this is the primary mechanism of excessive fuel consumption as far as oxygen sensors are concerned so it is important for you to verify that the oxygen sensors especially sensors s1 (first sensors on each bank of the engine) are working. You should also know that by default, a faulty oxygen sensor reports a lean system to the "brainbox". The oxygen sensors are installed at the inlet and outlet of the catalytic converter this way the brainbox uses the values of sensor 2 in comparison to sensor 1 to determine functionality of the catalytic converter which is an emissions control device. If you change these sensors and cleared codes, there is no way to tell their functionality until you complete a "drive cycle" to bring the monitors back online then a scan will give you their true status. Sorry about the long post is your "check engine" or "service engine soon" light lit on the dashboard?

Oh, about the fan being always on.. Internal combustion engines are not efficient at low temperatures due to friction and all that.. An always on fan increases the time it takes the engine to reach operating temperature. That is why engines are fitted with thermostats, they help the engine reach operating temperature as soon as possible by blocking the circulation of coolant until the engine reaches that optimum temperature then they open coolant flow and in conjunction with intermittent operation of the radiator fans keep the engine at that optimum temperature. For long commutes, "always on" fans don't impact fuel consumption as such and I dare say, is NOT the cause of the excessive fuel consumption you described.

princemillla:


U mean the o2 sensor or catalyst now.

If it's the o2, it was tested and I confirm it reads myself.

It reads about 5 to 6... .

If it's catalyst, I don't think i have one. Wat I have av is a mesh chocked inside the catalyst pot and it doesnt seems to bother my car breathing or hinder my temperature. But the aspects of this oxidation and reduction agent is wat am somewhat concern with

ok now I have a bit of time, I will explain a bit
I presume your sensors have 3-4 wires
if so its a heated sensor
when your sensors was tested was it in the cold with a volt meter? if yes then reading 5-6 means its dead, the pure test for a working heated sensor is for you to heat the sensor with a touch flame and read it it goes up when very hot and drops back when you stop heating it.here bellow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QM2jO0_Cah0
that's a quick way to test it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKsS6AELPuM

manny707:
Oh, about the fan being always on.. Internal combustion engines are not efficient at low temperatures due to friction and all that.. An always on fan increases the time it takes the engine to reach operating temperature. That is why engines are fitted with thermostats, they help the engine reach operating temperature as soon as possible by blocking the circulation of coolant until the engine reaches that optimum temperature then they open coolant flow and in conjunction with intermittent operation of the radiator fans keep the engine at that optimum temperature. For long commutes, "always on" fans don't impact fuel consumption as such and I dare say, is NOT the cause of the excessive fuel consumption you described.

I like to follow your theory so I would ask you this question, how about if the cooling fan is belt driven?direct from the main pulley?

---

erico2k2:

ok now I have a bit of time, I will explain a bit
I presume your sensors have 3-4 wires
if so its a heated sensor
when your sensors was tested was it in the cold with a volt meter? if yes then reading 5-6 means its dead, the pure test for a working heated sensor is for you to heat the sensor with a touch flame and read it it goes up when very hot and drops back when you stop heating it.here bellow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QM2jO0_Cah0
that's a quick way to test it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKsS6AELPuM

What you don't know, you don't know. After watching the video. I feel like a duped dude'. Those guys tested it for me in the cold. May be I should check for a brand new ones. Also do you in anyway support the radiator can with thermostat?

princemillla:

---

What you don't know, you don't know. After watching the video. I feel like a duped dude'. Those guys tested it for me in the cold. May be I should check for a brand new ones. Also do you in anyway support the radiator can with thermostat?

your car MUST have its thermostat in place