So simple, this is one of the creat heli i ever made, it was dangerous but alot of fun, we enjoy it, you can make yours by scratch built.... (saintsmart)my face book page

STEP 1: MAIN BODY 1.The material that I use to make the main body
of the hel would make you feel surprise.
It is the circuit board ( after removing the
copper layer ) that purchased from electronic
shops. It is made of a kind of fiber which gives
abnormal strength to it. The circuit board is cut to the rectangular shape
as above( 98mm*12mm). As you can see, there
is a hole on it which is used to house the main
shaft holding tube as below: (2)
Brushless DC, Brush DC, And Stepper Motors
From Allegro.

STEP 2: MAIN SHAFT The main shaft holding tube is made from a
white plastic tube (5.4mm*6.8mm) and two, but i use black one,,
bearing (3*6) are installed at both ends of the
tube. Of course, the ending of the tube are first
enlarged in order to house the bearing firmly.
Up to now, the basic structure of the helicopter is completed. The next step is to install the gear
as well as the motor. You can take a look at the
specification first. The gear I used is from
Tamiya gear set that I bought long long time
ago. I drill some hole on the gear in order to
make it lighter and have a better look.

STEP 3: LANDING GEAR For the landing gear, 2mm carbon rods are
used. Totally 4 holes are drilled on the main
body ( each end 2 holes ).
All the rods are glued together by instant glue
first and then by epoxy adhesive.
The skid set is made from balsa. They are very light and can be shaped easily.

STEP 4: MAKING THE SWASH PLATe
Swash plate is the most sophisticated part of a
RC heli. It seems to be a simple unit of a
factory one. However, it is a whole new thing of
making one by yourself. Here is my design
based on my own little knowledge about the swash plate. What you need includes7)
1 ball bearing ( 8*12)
1 plastic spacer (8*12)
rod end set ( for holding of the aluminum ball
in the swash plate )
aluminum ball ( from ball linkage set 3*5.8 ) aluminum ring
epoxy adhesive
The rod end set has first been cut into a round
shape. It is then inserted into the plastic spacer
as shown below:
Make sure that the aluminum ball placed in the rod end can be moved freely. 2 holes were
drilled on the plastic spacer in order to house
two screws that used to hold the ball linkage. The back of the swash plate In my design, the
swashplate is fixed on the main shaft. This is
simply done by applying some glue between
the aluminum ball and the shaftbe careful when
applying epoxy to this tiny unit or you would
get every part being glued together.(11) My instructions are too confusing? Here is my
draft of the swashplate which might help you. I
still find that my design is a little bit too
complex. If you have a better design, please let
me know!

STEP 5: MAKING ROTOR HEAD
For the rotor head, I choose the same material
as the main body - the circuit board. First of all, I
have to claim that the rotor head must be
sturdy enough to withstand any vibration or it
could be very dangerous. The control system I used here is the Hiller
system. In this simple control system, the cyclic
controls are transmitted from the servos to the
flybar only and the main blade cyclic pitch is
controlled by the flybar tilt only. The first step is to make the middle part:
It is actually a 3mm collar which can be fit into
the main shaft. A 1.6mm bar is inserted
horizontally into the collar. The above unit
makes the rotor head movable in one direction. There are two holes just above the collar which
is used to, as you can see, house the flybar. All
the parts that I used was first fixed together by
instant glue. They are then fixed firmly by tiny
screws (1mm*4mm) as shown below. In addition, I add epoxy adhesive. The rotor
head will spinning at very high speed. Never
overlook the potential for causing injury this
little machine has if anything got loose. Safety is
paramount!

Step6:INSTALLING SERVO Installing the servo
Only two servos are used in my design. One is
for the elevator and the other one is for aileron.
In my design, the aileron servo is installed
between the motor and the main shift holding
tube. In this way, the tube has made use of the sturdy plastic case of the servo as one of its
supporting medium. This arrangement gives extra strength to the
main shift holding tube as one side of the servo
is glued to the motor while the other side is
glued to the tube. However, the mobility of the
servo as well as the motor is lost. In order to make the whole structure sturdier,
an additional support is added to the main shift
holding tube. It is also made from circuit board
with some holes drill on it.

STEP 7: Electronic Components
Receiver
The receiver I use is GWS R-4p 4 channel
receiver. Originally, it is used with micro crystal.
However, I can't find one which fit with my TX's
band. So, I give my try to use the large one from my RX. It eventually works great and no
problems have occurred up to now. , it's really
big when compared with the micro receiver.
The receiver is only 3.8g ( extremely light
weight ) which is very suitable for indoor
heli. #Although the receiver has only four channels,
it can be modified to a five channel RX. The tail Esc
Here you can see the speed controller that is
used in my helicopter. It is placed at the bottom
of the gyro. Woo!! Really small size with only
0.7g. It is a JMP-7 Esc that I bought from eheli. I
really can't buy one from local hobby shops here in onitsha. Also, this tiny Esc works
great with the gyro. I just simply connect the
signal output of the gyro to the signal input of
the Esc. (26)
o 29
The micro-gyro This perfect micro-gyro is made by GWS. It is
temporarily the lightest gyro that I can find in
the world. Unlike the previous GWS gyro that I
used in my gas heli, it is very stable and
the center point is very accurate. If you plan to
buy a micro gyro, it would certainly be a good choice for you!
STEP 8: THE TAIL MOTOR The tail motor
The motors in the above photo are 5v DC
motor, micro DC 4.5-0.6, and micro DC 1.3-0.02
( from left to right ) In my first attempt, the
micro4.6-0.6 is used. The motor burns out
quickly ( or I should say that the plastic component in the motor melts) as the power
demand of the tail rotor is much larger than
that I expected. At the moment, the 5v motor is
being used in my heli which is still in very
good condition.
The current tail motor is a 16g GWS motor which provide much more power. For more
information, please go to the page "flybarless
CP modification II"
Here is my email www.igwevictorman@gmail.com
U must lern how to fly heli. victorigwe @ facebook.

Step9:
SPEED CONTROLER a Jeti 050 5A brushed electronic speed
controller. It was used to control the speed 300
motor in my heli before. As the speed
300 motor is now replaced by a CD-Rom
brushless motor, the Jeti 050 had been
replaced by a Castle Creation Phoenix 10 brushless ESC.
The following diagram shows how the
components are connected to each other. The
connections at the receiver is not in order. The
GWS R-4p is originally a 4-channel Rx. It is
modified in order to provide an extra channel for the pitch servo. In a fixed pitch design, only 2 servos are
needed.
A computerized Tx is needed as the the tail
control must be mixed with the throttle control.
For a Piccolo micro hel, this task is
performed by the Piccoboard. For my design, this is done by the function "Revo-Mixing" in
the Tx.

Step10: have a nice flight and a great built......

it all about technology.

No pics?

pic problem

sweet building, dont forget balanceing ur heli, victorigwe on fb..

[quote author=victorigwe post=55378062][/quote]

next is how to make a quadcopter . Step1: wood or popsicle, is all about technology, lern how to build copter's.

Making 1, i use a wood in makeing this, cut a tarod wood in a pen four squear 6cm and 12 cm .

Next is how to make a quadcopter using wood or popsicle to build this, is all about technology, lern how to build copter's.
Making 1: i use a wood in makeing this, cut a tarod wood in a pen four squear shape of 6cm and 12 cm, or chose the size of quad u want.

Making 2: mersure a garp of 5cm in each and join them together, they must be equal.

now u add some aluminum shit on it make a design hole on it and install it by using eposy and small nail, and ur frame is done next is to add ur parts..

need ur comments

you has made a quadcopter frame.

i made my prop with wood.

my mosfet flight controller using pic12f ic

tx rx, and programe ur quad.

electronic

dont forget that this is brushed and gaerd quard, add a bearing in a tube and gum it to the motor body with eposy, add same gear to all motors, my motor here is 8v.

diagram of quadcopter, dont forget to balabce ur prop's and the cg.

have a nice flight.

do u want to make a quadcopter fly without any parts or electronics. follow this steps, hey there am using whatapp 09032292949 facebook me on igwevictor.

make a frame of 6cm -3

use thesame method, of motor set, ur frame should be light, u may use a foam board it is lighter.

let make the props, i use aluminum is the space provided.

now sketch on a pc, start assembling.

now test the hole motors.

make a test flight by using 24v or 18v led acid battery, dont forget balancing all the prop's and the cg.

cheak out this vedios, VEDIO OF QUAD...

note: all ur prop's should not move the same direction, from up clock wise directio and down anticlock wise directio.

Next is a popsicle drone i made that fly up to 200metre high, gather your pop wood and start with this simple step's

step 1 is buy a pop stick it cheap in aliexpress, make a shape and a nice design, using an eposy still gum A B 4min,