Nope; different model ; different product

Tell us about it na!

Pics and a review would be nice.

This is a DIY thread afterall and we should always broaden the knowledge base.

makavele:
Nope; different model ; different product

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Tell us about it na!

Pics and a review would be nice.

This is a DIY thread afterall and we should always broaden the knowledge base.

When I get home for sure !

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Yes but sadly sold off the last piece just two days ago.

I will have one or two new pieces on ground in two weeks time.

This model is the UniT UT210E - it does AC and DC amps readings up to 100amps off the clamp as well as AC and DC voltage readings and resistance/continuity measurements as well as having a non-contact AC voltage detector (like a posh tester so you don't touch a live circuit. It does not do AC Frequency (Hz) readings. You would need a different UniT model for that.

Though a low budget chinese product the UniT UT210E is a very capable performer with it's readings well in line with the more premium Fluke, Agilent, Amprobe, Klein e.t.c meters. It has been heavily reviewed on various forums and found not wanting in performance as well as very good value for money.

Just for laughs , I am including a picture of my growing collection of Fluke and Amprobe meters. I am finding accurate metricing/metering to be a favorite pass-time for me.

You may reach out freely to firm up an order for the UniT

good... what's the price like? .

the one in the pic is the one I currently have

UniT UT210E will go for NGN22,000/Unit. Delivery within Lagos will be an additional 2k/3k depending on distance/location.

I usually only ship based on 'firm orders' to prevent inventory build up - so I would expect a 5k deposit to firm up any order.

And that is a trusty old Fluke you got there

mcTrinity:


good... what's the price like? .

the one in the pic is the one I currently have

NiyiOmoIyunade:
UniT UT210E will go for NGN22,000/Unit. Delivery within Lagos will be an additional 2k/3k depending on distance/location.

I usually only ship based on 'firm orders' to prevent inventory build up - so I would expect a 5k deposit to firm up any order.

And that is a trusty old Fluke you got there

Just for my own lazy-a$$ education, what are the other advantages of these "clampers" over traditional meters with good probes, other than the ability of the clampers to securely clamp?

BTW, I'm thinking of purchasing an Aneng AN8009 (a sub-$40 auto-range true RMS and 10000 Count meter with a well-regarded continuity tester, a temperature probe, etc.) for my fledgling hobby. I can't afford a Fluke for now, lol; not even those at entry level. Any thoughts?

........
P34c3
.....
...

Lolz bros.

That clamp is not really meant to 'securely clamp'. Rather the clamp jaws house a 'hall effect sensor' type device that allows you to measure AMPs flowing through the wire they are clamped around all this without interrupting/breaking the circuit/wire.

You can measure AC amps this way and more importantly to us Renewable Energy enthusiasts you can measure *DC Amps*. As you know given the amps flowing through a wire and the voltage you can precisely calculate how much power in watts is moving into or out of your equipment.

Infact there is no limit to the things you can troubleshoot in your system if you can measure amps flowing through the circuitry and this very conveniently by clamping around wires without breaking the circuit/wire.

As an added bonus, premium units like the Fluke can even read AC Frequency in Hz by passing a wire between the jaws of the clamp.

duwdu:


Just for my own lazy-a$$ education, what are the other advantages of these "clampers" over traditional meters with good probes, other than the ability of the clampers to securely clamp?

BTW, I'm thinking of purchasing an Aneng AN8009 (a sub-$40 auto-range true RMS and 10000 Count meter with a well-regarded continuity tester, a temperature probe, etc.) for my fledgling hobby. I can't afford a Fluke for now, lol; not even those at entry level. Any thoughts?

........
P34c3
.....
...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Lolz bros.

That clamp is not really meant to 'securely clamp'. Rather the clamp jaws house a 'hall effect sensor' type device that allows you to measure AMPs flowing through the wire they are clamped around all this without interrupting/breaking the circuit/wire.

You can measure AC amps this way and more importantly to us Renewable Energy enthusiasts you can measure *DC Amps*. As you know given the amps flowing through a wire and the voltage you can precisely calculate how much power in watts is moving into or out of your equipment.

Infact there is no limit to the things you can troubleshoot in your system if you can measure amps flowing through the circuitry and this very conveniently by clamping around wires without breaking the circuit/wire.

As an added bonus, premium units like the Fluke can even read AC Frequency in Hz by passing a wire between the jaws of the clamp.

This has helped to better enlighten me, 'Niyi; many thanks for your time and attention to detail.

........
P34c3
.....
...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
UniT UT210E will go for NGN22,000/Unit. Delivery within Lagos will be an additional 2k/3k depending on distance/location.

I usually only ship based on 'firm orders' to prevent inventory build up - so I would expect a 5k deposit to firm up any order.

And that is a trusty old Fluke you got there

lolz...

will need it April ending... how can I reach you?

I stay in Eket, Akwa Ibom State

Happy Good Friday pals.

Not a good harvesd today. Max 17.1 A dropping.

I just acquired the attached device and now able to watch my watts load.

My freezer at Start 735watts, after settling down, drops to 133 watts

Scared to load on my 2kva Prag inverter

On the issue of meters pls. find enclosed my meters
Most prized possession is Fluke 876B analyzer - It can measure THD ( Total harmonic distortion) and display waveform to verify if the inverters are really, true sinewave. also useful in measuring DC ripple as it can isolate base frequencies and amplitudes

Others are different multimeters(fluke, Chinese have more lying around), a sound level gauge, distance measure (grey is laser and other is digital tape ), wind speed measurement, leveling bubble meter )

Some of it is from old power commissioning days

Good day house
In continuation of my last post where I'm trying to add solar panels to my already existing inverter.
Attached below is a schematic diagram of my intended connection.
Total of 15 panels (12 are 300w while 3 are 325w) connected in 3S 5P total 4575w connected to

Midnite Combiner box MNPV6 with a high voltage lightening surge arrestor

Distance from Combiner Box to Cc is 51m so I'm using 16mm2 flex (5AWG)

Outback Flex 80 FM80 MPPT 80 AMP Solar Charge Controller including OutBack Power RTS Remote Temperature Sensor

48 x 400AH battery bank (with ZHC battery equalizer)

3.5kva 48v Exulted Inverter (to be replaced with Must power 5kva)

I will doing all the connections myself, this weekend we will be removing interlocking stone to pass conduit pipes from the PV stand to the building and all other ancillary works.

A few Questions:
Is it necessary I include a DC breaker between the Cc and the battery bank (I already intend to put a 100amps breaker between the Combiner box and Cc)

What size of wire do I use between the CC and the battery bank.

Looking at the attached diagram pls is there anything I missed out just incase

Thank you

My Oga Pranil. This is quite an impressive collection of meters.

Indeed I always tell Zeestone and his crew that a good technician is only as good as the quality of tools he possesses and uses. Indeed one cannot perforn accurate diagnosis or tweak or improve a system without reliable and accurate measurement equipment and I daresay one cannot even attain mastery of power and power electronics without the help of solid tools.

As always you are right on the money with the Fluke. Fluke meters always give one that assurance that whatever they read is what it is. One only need hold and use one to be convinced.

I still plan to acquire more meters as I progress in my learning journey. I have my eye currently on the GTC CM100 - it is capable of measuring DC amps from 1mA to 100A. The DC mA measurement will help me precisely verify the workings of my ZHC battery balancers. I have it in my Amazon cart already and just waiting to gather sufficient liver to pay for it.

pranil:
On the issue of meters pls. find enclosed my meters
Most prized possession is Fluke 876B analyzer - It can measure THD ( Total harmonic distortion) and display waveform to verify if the inverters are really, true sinewave. also useful in measuring DC ripple as it can isolate base frequencies and amplitudes

Others are different multimeters(fluke, Chinese have more lying around), a sound level gauge, distance measure (grey is laser and other is digital tape ), wind speed measurement, leveling bubble meter )

Some of it is from old power commissioning days

Although all CCs have some overcurrent protection built in, all. manufacturers recommend to use a sort of external DC Disconnect device aka overcurrent protection aka DC breaker or SLOWBLOW fuse between battery and CC.

Given that your PV Array and CC may be capable of pushing up to 80amps DC into your batteries and/or loads under ideal conditions, I would suggest you use minimum 25mm flex cable or best case 35mm flex between your CC and battery bank. This will help guarantee the cables always run cool and also prevent losses in case you have a long distance between the CC and batteries.

I suggest you move that 100a DC breaker from between the CC and PV array and use it for the CC to battery instead. Your 4500w array set as 3S 5P will be running on average between 80v to 120v under load with max amps you will see on the PV side between 40 to 50amps. Thus you can get by with a 63a DC breaker on the PV side.

There is one small but very important matter to consider when it comes to breaking the CC to battery connection. What happens if for whatever reason the breaker between CC and battery trips while the solar PV breaker is still closed/hot/live? The only Morningstar CC I ever lost was destroyed by just such an occurence and afterwards I started using manual disconnects only. People like Oga DMerciful circumvent this by using 2 pole breakers between the CC and battery - one pole breaks CC to battery while the other pole breaks PV to CC. This way if the battery breaker ever trips, the PV is simultaneously disconnected from the CC. Further upstream, there is yet another DC breaker between the first breaker and the actual PV array and with this you can easily isolate/shut down the PV for maintenance or troubleshooting. This is a clever workaround but may still fail in a scenario where one pole of the breaker e.g the PV side burns and remains hot/live such that the breaker tripping disconnects battery but not the PV to CC connection.

nonoski:
Good day house
In continuation of my last post where I'm trying to add solar panels to my already existing inverter.
Attached below is a schematic diagram of my intended connection.
Total of 15 panels (12 are 300w while 3 are 325w) connected in 3S 5P total 4575w connected to

Midnite Combiner box MNPV6 with a high voltage lightening surge arrestor

Distance from Combiner Box to Cc is 51m so I'm using 16mm2 flex (5AWG)

Outback Flex 80 FM80 MPPT 80 AMP Solar Charge Controller including OutBack Power RTS Remote Temperature Sensor

48 x 400AH battery bank (with ZHC battery equalizer)

3.5kva 48v Exulted Inverter (to be replaced with Must power 5kva)

I will doing all the connections myself, this weekend we will be removing interlocking stone to pass conduit pipes from the PV stand to the building and all other ancillary works.

A few Questions:
Is it necessary I include a DC breaker between the Cc and the battery bank (I already intend to put a 100amps breaker between the Combiner box and Cc)

What size of wire do I use between the CC and the battery bank.

Looking at the attached diagram pls is there anything I missed out just incase

Thank you

Brilliant submission as usual oga NiyiOmoIyunade

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Although all CCs have some overcurrent protection built in, all. manufacturers recommend to use a sort of external DC Disconnect device aka overcurrent protection aka DC breaker or SLOWBLOW fuse between battery and CC.

Given that your PV Array and CC may be capable of pushing up to 80amps DC into your batteries and/or loads under ideal conditions, I would suggest you use minimum 25mm flex cable or best case 35mm flex between your CC and battery bank. This will help guarantee the cables always run cool and also prevent losses in case you have a long distance between the CC and batteries.

I suggest you move that 100a DC breaker from between the CC and PV array and use it for the CC to battery instead. Your 4500w array set as 3S 5P will be running on average between 80v to 120v under load with max amps you will see on the PV side between 40 to 50amps. Thus you can get by with a 63a DC breaker on the PV side.

There is one small but very important matter to consider when it comes to breaking the CC to battery connection. What happens if for whatever reason the breaker between CC and battery trips while the solar PV breaker is still closed/hot/live? The only Morningstar CC I ever lost was destroyed by just such an occurence and afterwards I started using manual disconnects only. People like Oga DMerciful circumvent this by using 2 pole breakers between the CC and battery - one pole breaks CC to battery while the other pole breaks PV to CC. This way if the battery breaker ever trips, the PV is simultaneously disconnected from the CC. Further upstream, there is yet another DC breaker between the first breaker and the actual PV array and with this you can easily isolate/shut down the PV for maintenance or troubleshooting. This is a clever workaround but may still fail in a scenario where one pole of the breaker e.g the PV side burns and remains hot/live such that the breaker tripping disconnects battery but not the PV to CC connection.

Thank you for the quick response
Using Rapidtables website
I will experience a 5v drop between the pv and cc using 16mm2 flex in a distance of 51 meters and cool tem. I'm willing to accept that loss coz the difference in price between 16mm2 and 25mm2 flex multiplied by 51meters is quite a lot of money.

Please what size of cables should I use between the CC and battery bank?

Attached below is a picture of the 100 amps DC breaker which I think I can convert to a two pole, is the 100 amps rating too large for the purpose?

Thank you Sir

nonoski:

Thank you for the quick response
Using Rapidtables website
I will experience a 5v drop between the pv and cc using 16mm2 flex in a distance of 51 meters and cool tem. I'm willing to accept that loss coz the difference in price between 16mm2 and 25mm2 flex multiplied by 51meters is quite a lot of money.

Please what size of cables should I use between the CC and battery bank?

Attached below is a picture of the 100 amps DC breaker which I think I can convert to a two pole, is the 100 amps rating too large for the purpose?

Thank you Sir

kindly, patiently and meticulously go through Niyi's response again... he basically answered the questions you're repeating.

Nice one oga Niyi... more wisdom to your brain

For Sale
Brand new 3 kw Growatt SPF 3000 Plus
2 MPPT 1750 watts each
48 Volts
30 amp AC charger
3 year warranty
N250,000
email me at info@atlanticwastepower.com

Just like in the picture without the Wi-Fi for monitoring

Hello sir. Do you mind if I send you a mail ?

pranil:

Some of it is from old power commissioning days

The Two hundred and fifty thousand dollars is correct?

chris81964:
For Sale
Brand new 3 kw Growatt SPF 3000 Plus
2 MPPT 1750 watts each
48 Volts
30 amp AC charger
3 year warranty
$250,000
email me at info@atlanticwastepower.com

Just like in the picture without the Wi-Fi for monitoring

DMerciful:
The Two hundred and fifty thousand dollars is correct?

I will also accept N250,000.

pranil:
It is an actual weather station connected to a small raspberry pi which uploads it to the internet and keeps a local database. If you check on Wunderground it is GOLD star rated ( means accuracy has been tested for more than 5 consecutive days against other sources ) Your are always welcome. to visit . the same applies to anybody who is intreetd in information sharing

@Pranil

Thanks for the Invite. I have spent the past couple of days looking at the readings (temperature mostly) of your weather station and comparing to other sources and I must say the accuracy is fantastic. I will surely visit your site to see how it works. Will contact you soon.
Thanks.

bigrovar:


Negative, should have stopped at struggle to start. My first inverter was a 1050va (about 840w) and yes it did struggle to start the freeze but it did start it and once started the freezer ran fine. The freezer is a 175L chest mode from LG.

Freezers should generally be given some time when turned off.. (like 5 minute) before turning them back on.. this would allow the compressor to reset (you will hear a click sound when this happens) doing this reduces the start up surge.

I eventually replaced the inverter with a 1.5va (1300w) inverter and the latter started with freezer with no hassle at all. But Inverters are from sukam

Noted. Is it with a 24 volt set up?
How many amps of battery and solar panels? Thanks.

nonoski:
Good day house
In continuation of my last post where I'm trying to add solar panels to my already existing inverter.
Attached below is a schematic diagram of my intended connection.
Total of 15 panels (12 are 300w while 3 are 325w) connected in 3S 5P total 4575w connected to

Midnite Combiner box MNPV6 with a high voltage lightening surge arrestor

Distance from Combiner Box to Cc is 51m so I'm using 16mm2 flex (5AWG)

Outback Flex 80 FM80 MPPT 80 AMP Solar Charge Controller including OutBack Power RTS Remote Temperature Sensor

48 x 400AH battery bank (with ZHC battery equalizer)

3.5kva 48v Exulted Inverter (to be replaced with Must power 5kva)

I will doing all the connections myself, this weekend we will be removing interlocking stone to pass conduit pipes from the PV stand to the building and all other ancillary works.

A few Questions:
Is it necessary I include a DC breaker between the Cc and the battery bank (I already intend to put a 100amps breaker between the Combiner box and Cc)

What size of wire do I use between the CC and the battery bank.

Looking at the attached diagram pls is there anything I missed out just incase

Thank you

@nonoski

Please take a look at the specification for FLEXMAX 80 before you max out on the max. power and voltage specification. Kindly keep us updated with diagrams of your installation. Best of luck

makavele:


We are waiting for OP to come and give us his testimony

Bro, I'm still temporizing o. Wanna get it all right and be dead sure before i start connecting stuffs.

kiekie1:


NoMoreTrolling,
Thanks ! Its an LVT 1hp & 1.5hp split AC .. The 3.5kva cyberpower is a 2500w inverter (×3 surge) .. Its not really in stock again! Cheer's

So you place both ACs simultaneously on your set-up?

ceaser:


So you place both ACs simultaneously on your set-up?

Good morning Ceaser,
I didn't mention running all appliances at once ! I run them one at a time even though the inverter can power the microwave-grilller and 1hp split at once , can also power the 1hp ×2 AC , but 1.5hp ×2 triggers overload alarm ! Cheer's

3kva 3000 watt 12v modified sinewave inverter for sale.It can power your tv,home theatre,lighting point,bedside fridge.It can run for 10hrs on a 200ah battery.This is the only 3000 watt 12v inverter in the market.Pay on delivery for lagos residents only.Price is 80,000 Naira.To order call 08170368264

mcTrinity:


good... what's the price like? .

the one in the pic is the one I currently have

Hello,
I have a similar fluke which reads only AC currents .. Isn't your fluke working well ?

Putting them up for sale at affordable price ;

Fluke 321 with pouch bag

Overview:

Fluke 321 is designed to verify the presence of load current, AC voltage and continuity of circuits, switches, fuses and contacts. These small and rugged clamp meter are ideally suited for current measurements up to 400 A in tight cable compartments.

Price : 10k

Contact ;
Smartcell global services
081-350-31951

pranil:
On the issue of meters pls. find enclosed my meters
Most prized possession is Fluke 876B analyzer - It can measure THD ( Total harmonic distortion) and display waveform to verify if the inverters are really, true sinewave. also useful in measuring DC ripple as it can isolate base frequencies and amplitudes

Others are different multimeters(fluke, Chinese have more lying around), a sound level gauge, distance measure (grey is laser and other is digital tape ), wind speed measurement, leveling bubble meter )

Some of it is from old power commissioning days

Good morning Boss ,
Nice professional tools you got there ! As for me, i use and also sell handy true rms Uni-T 210 & 203 DC clamp meters which gives me accurate reading !

kiekie1:


Good morning Boss ,
Nice professional tools you got there ! As for me, i use and also sell handy true rms Uni-T 210 & 203 DC clamp meters which gives me accurate reading !

How much is your DC clamp meter?

Just picked up the Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 from @Ola28. Yes, it's the 60Amp Tristar Mppt and yes, it was the same price.