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| AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 2:25pm On Jul 05, 2010 |
[size=16pt]THE CAR BATTERY - HOW TO CHARGE AND REPLACE DEAD CAR BATTERIES[/size] WHAT DOES A CAR BATTERY DO? The primary function of a car battery is to provide the essential power for starting your vehicle. Car batteries output 12 volts of Direct Current (DC) power and their ratings are measured in Cold Cranking Amps, or CCA. This is the amount of amperage the battery can supply at -18º Centigrade for 30 seconds. Car batteries are measured on this scale because cold temperatures lower the amount of power a battery can output. CCA is an important measurement to look at if you live in a climate that gets below 4 to 10º Centigrade. The battery in your car can also supply power your vehicles electronics when you car engine is turned off. Things like your stereo, climate control, interior and exterior lights are all powered by your car battery. If you need to power electronics that use Alternating Current (AC), then you'll need a car power inverter to convert DC into AC. You want to be careful running these accessories for extended periods of time when the engine is turned off because it can quickly lead to a dead battery. HOW TO CHARGE AND JUMP CAR BATTERIES If your engine is running, your car battery is constantly recharging. Your battery is attached to an alternator, which is a type of generator, which runs off of your engines power. This keeps the battery fully charged, allowing it to provide you with years of service. If your battery is dead because you accidentally left something on, most commonly an interior light or your headlights, you might be able to jump or charge the battery rather than replace it. If you try to start your car and nothing happens, ensure that each battery cable is tightly secured to the battery. If the engine tries to turn over, but can't quite do it, you probably just need a jump. A portable jump starter is a wonderful device to have for these situations, especially if you live up in the mountains or a rural area. If you don't have a jump starter, you'll need a set of jumper cables and another vehicle with a fully charged battery. Get the hood of the vehicle with the energized battery close to the hood of the vehicle with the dead battery. Pop open both hoods and ensure the jumper cables are long enough to attach to the terminals on both batteries. Start the vehicle with the good battery, then attach the positive lead jumper to the positive terminal on the dead battery, then connect the other end to the positive terminal on the charged battery. Next, connect the negative lead to the negative terminal on the good battery and connect the other end to an unpainted metal part of the engine or chassis on the vehicle with the dead battery. Next, you'll want to rev the engine on the running vehicle up to 1,500-2,000 RPM. Doing so will help charge the dead battery and help keep the engine from stalling during the jump. Thirty seconds to a minute after the jumper leads have been connected, attempt to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it fails to start, try letting the battery charge for five minutes before attempting to start again. If does start, disconnect the jumper leads in the reverse order you attached them and do not turn off your engine for at least 15-20 minutes. Doing so will let your battery recharge; driving your car around will help recharge your battery faster. If you can't jump your car battery, can try hooking it up to a car battery charger. You might be able to successfully charge your battery, but if the battery is exhausted, you will need to purchase a replacement. CAR BATTERIES AT AUTO ANYTHING Whether you're flying around the corners of the track on a regular basis or just trying to make it through the morning commute, you need a car battery that reliably gets the job done. Of course, your car battery powers your clock, radio and lights. But as you know if you've ever tried to start your car after leaving your lights on all night, its main function is to get your vehicle started. Most vehicles on the roads today have a 12volt DC battery that supplies the juice necessary to start the vehicle and to run electrical systems when the vehicle is turned off. When your vehicle is running its primary source of power is the alternator. The alternator also recharges your car battery while you are driving. This is why after you jumpstart a car you need to drive around for approximately 20-30 minutes to fully recharge the battery. PICKING THE RIGHT CAR BATTERY When you're looking for a new car battery there are several questions you need to ask in order to find the one that will serve you best. The main question is what are you using your vehicle for? Is this a track vehicle where you need light-weight power? Are you powering up a large aftermarket electronics system? Do you live in an area that gets below 4 to 10º C? The answers to these questions will help you to decide which car battery is right for you. If you're looking for a battery to power your speedy race car, a performance battery is a great option. Regular car batteries can weigh as much as 60lbs. In contrast, some light-weight performance batteries measure in at a mean and lean 6lbs. That's a big reduction, especially in situations where every ounce counts! For audio buffs, pumping up your vehicle with the latest and greatest in sound systems bring a different set of requirements. You need a car battery that can provide increased voltage output for longer amounts of time and withstand the vibrations of all your boom power. The amp hours (AH) on a battery indicates how much juice it can put out over a 20 hour period. Picking up a car battery with increased AH's will allow you to run your gear for longer periods with the vehicle off. Also, performance batteries are designed to resist vibrations that can cause premature battery failure. In cold weather situations, the chemical reaction in your car battery slows down, which can make it difficult to start your vehicle. Picking up a battery with higher cold cranking amps (CCA) will allow you get going, even on those chilly mornings. CCA measures how many amps a car battery can deliver at 0?F for 30 seconds. Many performance batteries are designed with higher CCA than traditional ones, so this may be a good option for you. Depending on how cold of an environment you're vehicle is in, a block heater may also be necessary for cold weather starting. JUMP STARTING YOUR CAR If you're turning your key and nothing is happening, jump starting your car may be necessary. The process for doing so is fairly straightforward, but it does require some knowledge and safety precautions to avoid a dangerous mistake. An incorrect set up can cause an explosion, so make sure to follow the proper steps. Step 1: You'll need to find another vehicle with a charged battery and some jumper cables. Also, it's a good idea to read your vehicle's owners manual for any peculiarities relating to your specific make and model. Some modern vehicles with complex onboard computers may have different requirements. Step 2: Situate the vehicles so that the car batteries are as close together as possible without having the vehicles touch. Park and turn off both vehicles and open the hoods. Step 3: Attach the positive (usually red handle) jumper cable clamp to the positive terminal of the dead car battery. Step 4: Attach the other positive jumper cable clamp to the positive terminal of the charged car battery. Step 5: Attach the negative (usually black handle) jumper cable clamp to the negative terminal of the charged car battery. Step 6: Attach the remaining negative handle to an unpainted mental surface in the vehicle with the dead battery, usually somewhere on the engine block. Do not connect it to the battery or any moving parts. Safety Note: Make sure the only thing connecting the two vehicles are the jumper cables. The vehicles should not be touching each other. Step 7: Start the vehicle with the charged battery and let it run for 30 seconds to a minute. Next, try starting the other vehicle. If it doesn't work you can try letting them sit for 3-5 minutes more and trying again. Step 8: Once both vehicles are running, remove the cables in reverse order. Step 9: Keep the vehicle with the dead car battery running and drive it around for at least a few miles to recharge the battery. If possible, keep the vehicle running for half an hour to fully recharge the battery. If you can't jump your car battery, hooking it up to a battery charger might work to get it going again. If the battery is exhausted though, you will need to purchase a replacement. Also, if jumping the battery doesn't work, you may need to consult a mechanic to find out if the problem is somewhere else. 2 Likes 1 Share |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:16am On Jul 09, 2010 |
[size=16pt]HOW TO CHECK TRANSMISSION AND DISCOVER POSSIBLE TRANSMISSION PROBLEM[/size] AT THE BEGINNING First, check the used car history records if you are planning to get one; it may save you some time and money. If the used car history report shows that the car you want to buy was used as a rental vehicle or has been involved in an accident, there is no point to even look at it. Ask the previous owner or dealer if any repair has been done to the transmission. If the automatic transmission is already rebuilt, try to avoid buying or driving such a car. It's not like all rebuilt transmission will have problems - some of them work even better than before. The problem is that not all transmission shops can do equally the same high-quality job. And since there is no way to verify if it was rebuilt properly or not, it's better not to take chances. Another thing to be concern about, ask if the car you are looking for was used for towing a trailer. I've seen the transmission worn out in many cars that were used for towing a trailer. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:20am On Jul 09, 2010 |
HOW TO CHECK AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION First, check the transmission fluid level and condition. With the engine idling, transmission in "Park" (some car may have different procedure, refer to owner's manual) remove the automatic transmission dipstick and wipe it out with the clean cloth. Then insert it back and pull out again. Check the fluid level, low level may indicate a transmission leak. Look at the fluid very closely. It helps to drip the fluid on a white paper to be able to see fluid condition. The fluid on the paper should be clean and transparent, without any metal filings or black flakes. New fluid usually comes red. Over time with usage it becomes more brownish, but it shouldn't be black. Try to smell the fluid. It should not have a burnt smell. All this may seem to be difficult for you, but when you check few similar cars, you'll be able to see the difference. If you discover that transmission fluid is too dirty or black, or smells burnt, avoid driving such a car. Keep in mind, however, that some modern cars simply don't have the transmission dipstick and require special procedure performed in a garage to check the fluid level. In this case, the only way to check it is a test drive. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:27am On Jul 09, 2010 |
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TEST DRIVE Use more caution when test-driving someone else's vehicle - the mirrors, the driver's seat, etc. may not be adjusted properly for you. First, get use to brake pedal feeling, adjust the mirrors, driver's seat, and learn all the controls of the vehicle. Proceed to drive only when you sure it's safe. One of the indications of a transmission problem is delayed engagement, when there is a long delay between the moment you shift the shifter into "  " (Drive) or "R" (Reverse) and the moment the transmission kicks in. It's easier to note delayed engagement after a car was sitting for a while: With the transmission in "P" (Park) start the engine, and wait until the engine rpm has reduced to normal level (650 - 850 rpm). With your foot holding down the brake pedal, shift to the "" (Drive) position. Almost immediately the transmission should engage - it feels like the car wants to creep forward. This should happen very smoothly, without a strong jerk or clunk. Shift to "N" (Neutral), and the transmission should disengage. Now, still holding the brakes, shift to the "R" (Reverse) position. Again, the transmission kicks in almost immediately - you will feel the car wants to creep backward. This also should be very smooth, without a jerk or clunk. Now, still holding the brake pedal down, try to shift from D to R and back to D. There should be no strong jerk or clunk. If there is a notable long delay (more than 1 seconds) between the moment you shift and the moment the transmission kicks in, such a transmission might be either too worn or has some problem, avoid driving this car.If you feel a strong jerk or clunk while shifting, the car may have a transmission problem, avoid such a car. Now it's time to test drive the car. With the shifter in " " (Drive) position drive gently, with smooth and gradual acceleration. Until the vehicle reaches a speed of 30-37 mph (50-60 km/h) or you should feel the gears shifting at least twice (from first to second and from second to third gear). All shifts should be done very smoothly, without jerks or slipping. You should be able to feel when the transmission shifts by the slight change in the engine tone or change in engine rpm. If the transmission is extremely worn it may shift with quite a strong jerk, shudder or a delay (especially from first to second gear). Driving at a speed of 25-30 mph (40-50 km/h) if you press down the accelerator pedal for a few seconds, you should feel downshifting to the lower gear, if the automatic transmission works properly.The next step: check overdrive. While driving at 60-70 km/h or 35-45 mph on a level road, without using the accelerator, switch overdrive ON. You should feel an upshifting to the next speed. Switch it to "OFF," and you should feel a downshifting. Another thing that may indicate the transmission problem is the slipping. When the transmission is excessively worn it may slip - which means you press the accelerator, the engine rpm increases but the speed remains the same. If during the drive test you feel any problem such as transmission seems to slipping or shifts with a jerk or shudder or if the transmission got stuck in some gear, or has trouble shifting into a particular gear (for example, from second to third), avoid buying or driving such a car. Test-drive the car as long as possible. Often the transmission may work well when it's cold but when it's warmed up it starts giving troubles or visa versa. So, it's better to spend more time checking the transmission than later fixing it endlessly. Normally there should be no shudder, no noises or any kind of strong jerks at any speed and at any engine temperatures while any shifting. If the dealer tells you that the jerks or shudder or any other abnormal transmission behavior is "normal" for this car or it's just because the car is cold or anything alike, don't trust them. If the "check engine" and/or a flashing overdrive light come on while driving, have the problem assessed with your mechanic before buying a car. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:29am On Jul 09, 2010 |
HOW TO CHECK MANUAL TRANSMISSION First, check for oil leaks. There should be no leaks. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:31am On Jul 09, 2010 |
MANUAL TRANSMISSION TEST DRIVE: Use more caution when test driving someone else's vehicle - the mirrors, the driver's seat, etc. may not be adjusted properly for you. First, get use to the brake pedal feeling, adjust the mirrors, driver's seat, and learn all the controls of the vehicle. Proceed to drive only when you sure it's safe. Now, (with caution - safety first!), shift the transmission lever into neutral. Apply the parking brake. With the engine idling, press the clutch pedal all the way, hold it down, and listen for noises. Then release the pedal and listen for noises again. There should be no loud noises at either position. The next step is the test drive. Try to drive the vehicle at different speeds in all gears, one by one. Every gear should shift smoothly and easily without any noises or jerks. While driving at the second or third gear, try to press down sharply on the accelerator pedal for an instance. The clutch should not slip. If you feel any slipping (e.g. the engine rpm increases but the speed remains the same), the clutch most likely has to be replaced. Try to drive with acceleration and deceleration - there should be no grinding, whining or humming noise under any condition. All the gears should shift easily and noiselessly. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:33am On Jul 09, 2010 |
CHECK THE CV JOINTS A Constant Velocity joint or CV joint is an important component of the drive train. The CV joint is packed with grease and protected by the rubber or plastic boot. Most common problem with the CV joints is when the protective boot gets damaged. Once this happens, the grease comes out and the moisture and dirt come in, eventually causing the CV joint to fail due to lack of lubrication and corrosion. In worst case, the CV joint may disjoin causing the vehicle to stop running. You can check the condition of the CV joint boots visually. You can see them with the front wheel turned outside, looking down from the front of a car. None of them should be damaged. If a boot is damaged, it has to be replaced as soon as possible. If continue driving with broken boot, the CV joint or a whole drive shaft will need to be replaced. While test driving if you hear any clicking or popping noise when turning the CV joint then it is probably already defective. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 9:35am On Jul 09, 2010 |
HAVE THE CAR INSPECTED BY A MECHANIC If you want to buy, before making your final decision, have the car inspected by a mechanic of your choice. There are many things that only an experienced mechanic will be able to reveal. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 4:10am On Jul 11, 2010 |
[size=16pt]HOW TO KEEP THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ALIVE[/size] THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS ONE OF THE MOST COMPLICATED AND THUS ONE OF THE LESS RELIABLE PARTS OF THE VEHICLE. THE REPAIR OF AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS COMPLEX AND TENDS TO BE QUITE EXPENSIVE. MORE THAN THAT, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION PROBLEM CAN MAKE YOUR CAR UNSAFE - SOME TRANSMISSION DEFECTS MAY CAUSE, FOR EXAMPLE, THAT THE CAR CAN ROLL WITH THE SHIFTER IN PARK OR DRIVE FORWARD WITH SHIFTER IN NEUTRAL. ON THE OTHER HAND, IF TAKING A GOOD CARE OF, YOUR TRANSMISSION CAN LAST YOU REALLY LONG WITH NO SIGNIFICANT PROBLEMS. IN THIS ARTICLE YOU MAY FIND SOME SIMPLE TIPS HOW TO PREVENT YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FROM DAMAGE AND KEEP IT IN A GOOD SHAPE. IT DOESN'T REQUIRE TOO MUCH OF YOUR EFFORTS - JUST PERIODICAL CHECKING AND REGULAR MAINTENANCE. TIP: HAVE YOU LOOKED IN YOUR VEHICLE OWNER'S MANUAL? TRY, IT'S A BEST SOURCE OF INFORMATION ON YOUR VEHICLE MAINTENANCE. YOU WILL BE AMAZED HOW MANY USEFUL INFO YOU MAY FIND IN THIS BOOK! |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 4:13am On Jul 11, 2010 |
WHAT CAN DAMAGE YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MOST OF THE TRANSMISSION TROUBLES START FROM OVERHEATING. UNDER HEAVY LOAD, SUCH AS TOWING A HEAVY TRAILER, ROCKING THE VEHICLE FROM THE SNOW, HAVING CONTINUOUS STOP AND GO TRAFFIC IN HOT WEATHER, RACING, ETC. THE TRANSMISSION OVERHEATS. AT HIGHER TEMPERATURES THE TRANSMISSION FLUID BURNS, LOSING ITS LUBRICATING QUALITIES AND BECOMES OXIDIZED LEAVING DEPOSITS ALL OVER INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION. EXPOSED TO THE HEAT THE RUBBER SEALS AND GASKETS INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION BECOME HARDENED CAUSING LEAKS. THE METAL PARTS WARP AND LOSE THEIR STRENGTH. ALL THIS, SOONER OR LATER, RESULTS IN TRANSMISSION FAILURE. FOR EXAMPLE, A FRIEND OF MINE BURNED THE TRANSMISSION WHEN HE WAS SPINNING THE WHEELS TOO HARD TRYING TO FREE HIS SHINY AUDI FROM THE SNOW ON THE NEXT DAY AFTER HE BOUGHT IT! HOWEVER, OVERHEATING IS NOT THE ONLY REASON - SOMETIMES TRANSMISSION BREAKS DOWN BECAUSE OF POOR DESIGN, DUE TO LACK OF MAINTENANCE OR AFTER BEING REBUILT BY INEXPERIENCED TECHNICIAN. FEW OTHER REASONS: HARSH DRIVING, TOO LOW OR TOO HIGH TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL OR WRONG TRANSMISSION FLUID TYPE - A PERSON I KNOW ADDED GEAR OIL INTO THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, GUESS, WHAT HAPPEN? - THE TRANSMISSION DIED AFTER 40 MINUTES OF DRIVING! |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 4:16am On Jul 11, 2010 |
HOW TO PREVENT THE TRANSMISSION FROM DAMAGE - REGULARLY CHECK YOUR PARKING SPACE FOR LEAKS. DOESN'T MATTER, IS IT THE ENGINE OIL LEAK, POWER STEERING FLUID OR TRANSMISSION FLUID; IF YOU DISCOVER ANY, GET IT FIXED BEFORE IT CAUSED SOMETHING SERIOUS. - ONCE IN A WHILE CHECK THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION. NOT ALL CARS HOWEVER HAVE THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK, IN SOME CARS, FOR EXAMPLE, IN LATE VOLKSWAGEN MODELS, THE TRANSMISSION FLUID CAN ONLY BE CHECKED BY THE DEALER. CONSULT WITH YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL FOR DETAILS. IF THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL IS TOO LOW, THERE IS A LEAK SOMEWHERE THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED. - CHANGE THE FLUID AS OFTEN AS IT SAID IN YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL OR WHEN IT BECOMES TOO DARK (RATHER BROWN THAN RED) OR DIRTY. ALSO, KEEP IN MIND THAT AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CAN NOT BE DRAINED COMPLETELY - THERE IS ALWAYS SOME TRANSMISSION FLUID LEFT INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION (THE TORQUE CONVERTER, IN THE VALVE BODY, ETC.) WHICH MEANS YOU ONLY CAN CHANGE ABOUT 60% OF THE FLUID AT ONCE. THIS IS ONE MORE REASON TO CHANGE IT MORE OFTEN. - USE ONLY THE SAME TYPE OF THE TRANSMISSION FLUID AS SPECIFIED IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL OR ON THE DIPSTICK. SOME VEHICLES (E.G DODGE CARAVAN) ARE VERY SENSITIVE TO FLUID TYPE - NEVER SHIFT TO THE REVERSE OR PARKING UNTIL THE CAR COMES TO A COMPLETE STOP. - NEVER SHIFT FROM THE PARKING MODE WHEN ENGINE RPM IS HIGHER THAN NORMAL IDLE. - ALWAYS HOLD A BRAKE DOWN WHEN SHIFTING FROM PARKING. - THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CAN BE DAMAGED IF TOWING WITH THE DRIVE WHEELS ON THE ROAD. ALWAYS USE A DOLLY OR PLACE POWERED WHEELS ON THE TOWING PLATFORM (IF THE VEHICLE IS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE - TOW IT FROM THE FRONT LEAVING REAR WHEELS ON THE ROAD. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 4:19am On Jul 11, 2010 |
HOW TO USE OVERDRIVE GENERALLY SPEAKING, OVERDRIVE (O/D) IS THE HIGHEST GEAR IN THE TRANSMISSION. ON MOST CARS THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HAS 3 SPEEDS AND OVERDRIVE (FORTH SPEED). OVERDRIVE ALLOWS THE ENGINE TO HAVE LESS RPM WITH HIGHER SPEED IN ORDER TO HAVE BETTER FUEL EFFICIENCY. WHEN YOU SWITCH IT ON, YOU ALLOW THE TRANSMISSION TO SHIFT INTO OVERDRIVE MODE AFTER THE CERTAIN SPEED IS REACHED (USUALLY 30 - 40 MPH (48 - 64 KM/P) DEPENDING ON THE LOAD). WHEN IT'S OFF, YOU LIMIT TRANSMISSION SHIFTING BY THIRD SPEED. IN NORMAL DRIVING CONDITION THE OVERDRIVE SHOULD BE ALWAYS ON. YOU MAY NEED TO SWITCH IT OFF WHEN DRIVING IN MOUNTAINOUS AREA OR TOWING A TRAILER. [THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AUTOMATICALLY SHIFTS FROM OD TO THE 3-TH GEAR WHEN IT FEEL MORE LOAD. WHEN IT FEELS LESS LOAD IT SHIFTS BACK TO THE O/D, BUT UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, E.G: DRIVING UPHILL OR TOWING A TRAILER, THE TRANSMISSION CAN NOT DECIDE TO STAY IN OD OR TO SHIFT INTO 3-TH SPEED AND IT STARTS TO SHIFT BACK AND FORTH. THAT'S THE TIME YOU MAY SWITCH IT OFF AND HELP THE TRANSMISSION TO DECIDE.] . YOU ALSO MAY NEED TO SWITCH IT OFF WHEN YOU WANT TO SLOWDOWN USING THE ENGINE BRAKING, FOR EXAMPLE, DRIVING DOWNHILL. [FOR MORE DETAILS, CHECK YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL] |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 4:21am On Jul 11, 2010 |
SERVICING YOUR TRANSMISSION I'D RECOMMEND GOING FOR A SERVICE TO YOUR CAR MAKE DEALER - THEY HAVE ORIGINAL PARTS, THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TYPE OF THE FLUID TO USE AND THEIR TECHNICIANS ARE HIGHLY TRAINED TO SERVICE PARTICULAR VEHICLE MODEL. EVEN IF YOU GO TO THE INDEPENDENT GARAGE, ALWAYS ASK TO USE ORIGINAL PARTS - SOMETIMES, THE AFTER-MARKET PARTS ARE NOT OF AS GOOD QUALITY AS ORIGINAL. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 4:23am On Jul 11, 2010 |
WHEN IT'S TIME TO GO TO THE TRANSMISSION SHOP IF YOU EXPERIENCE ANY PROBLEMS WITH YOUR TRANSMISSION SUCH AS LEAKS, NOISES, PROBLEMS WITH SHIFTING, ETC. - DON'T WAIT UNTIL THE PROBLEM WILL BECOME WORSE AND CAR WILL FINALLY STOP SOMEWHERE ON A HIGHWAY, VISIT YOUR TRUSTED LOCAL TRANSMISSION SHOP. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS NEVER DISAPPEAR BY THEMSELVES. ALSO, WHEN GOING FOR THE REPAIR, TRY TO EXPLAIN TO SERVICE PERSON MORE DETAILED - WHAT EXACTLY PROBLEM YOU EXPERIENCE, WHEN IT HAPPENS, WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE. IT WILL BE EASIER FOR THEM TO REPAIR THE TRANSMISSION. BEFORE GOING TO THE TRANSMISSION SHOP FOR THE REPAIR ASK THEM ABOUT THE WARRANTY - THE LONGER WARRANTY THEY WILL GIVE YOU, THE BETTER WILL BE THE REPAIR. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:39am On Jul 11, 2010 |
[size=16pt]FEW TIPS ON ENGINE MAINTENANCE [/size] WHY CARS BREAK DOWN? NOTHING LASTS FOREVER; ANY CAR EVENTUALLY WILL START HAVING PROBLEMS. HOWEVER, WHILE SOME CARS MAY PROVIDE YOU WITH FEW HUNDRED THOUSANDS MILES OF TROUBLE-FREE DRIVING, OTHERS START HAVING PROBLEMS FROM THE BEGINNING. WHY THERE IS SUCH A HUGE DIFFERENCE? SOMETIMES CARS START HAVING PROBLEMS AFTER ACCIDENTS. SOMETIMES IT MAY BE A FACTORY DEFECT OR DESIGN FLAW. HEAVY CONDITIONS LIKE, FOR EXAMPLE, DRIVING ONLY SHORT TRIPS WITHOUT LETTING THE ENGINE TO WARM UP FULLY ALSO MAKE THE ENGINE LIFE SHORTER. CORROSION IS ANOTHER FACTOR - FOR EXAMPLE, PARK THE CAR FOR A FEW MONTHS IN PLACE WITH HIGH HUMIDITY AND LATER IT WILL PROBABLY HAVE MORE PROBLEMS THAN THE VEHICLE DRIVEN ALL THIS TIME ON DAILY BASIS. YET, LACK OF MAINTENANCE IS ONE OF THE MOST OFTEN REASON FOR A CAR TO BREAK DOWN. SO, WHAT'S MOST IMPORTANT TO KEEP YOUR ENGINE IN A GOOD SHAPE? - I GUESS, I WON'T SAY SOMETHING NEW STATING THAT REGULAR OIL CHANGES IS MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR TO KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING. IF YOU DO IT MORE OFTEN THAN SUGGESTED BY MANUFACTURER'S SCHEDULE, THAT'S EVEN BETTER. - AVOID OVERHEATING THE ENGINE - CHANGING SPARK PLUGS, AIR FILTER, TIMING BELT AND OTHER ITEMS FROM MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE MAY SAVE YOU FROM COSTLY REPAIRS. - FIX ANY SMALL PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY BEFORE IT CAUSES A SERIOUS DAMAGE. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:44am On Jul 11, 2010 |
ENGINE OIL CHANGE WHY REGULAR OIL CHANGES ARE SO IMPORTANT? WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF I MISS MY OIL CHANGE? ENGINE OIL HAS LIMITED LIFE - AFTER A CERTAIN POINT IT STARTS LOSING LUBRICATING QUALITIES AND CARBONIZES. ONCE IT HAPPENS, THE ENGINE GETS CONTAMINATED WITH CARBON DEPOSITS OR SLUDGE THAT SIGNIFICANTLY SHORTENS ENGINE'S LIFE. WHEN YOU CHANGE OIL AT OR BEFORE MANUFACTURER SUGGESTED INTERVAL, YOU CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE THIS "CARBONIZING" POINT, ENGINE REMAINS CLEAN AND ONCE REFILLED WITH NEW OIL READY TO WORK HARD AGAIN. IF THE ENGINE OIL HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED FOR LONG, CARBON DEPOSITS START CLOGGING THE OIL PICK-UP SCREEN DECREASING OIL SUPPLY AND INCREASING FRICTION. THROUGH THE ENGINE VENTILATION SYSTEM THE SAME CARBON DEPOSITS BUILD UP INSIDE THE THROTTLE BODY AND EGR SYSTEM CAUSING ROUGH IDLE AND POSSIBLE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. COMPRESSION DECREASES AND ENGINE START WEARING MUCH FASTER. IF YOU DON'T REMEMBER WHEN YOU CHANGED THE OIL IN YOUR CAR LAST TIME - JUST CHECK THE OIL ON THE DIPSTICK. AND EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE THE OIL, THE OIL FILTER SHOULD BE REPLACED AS WELL. FOR CORRECT OIL TYPE, ENGINE OIL CAPACITY, MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE, ETC. CHECK YOUR CAR OWNER'S MANUAL. 1 Like |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:47am On Jul 11, 2010 |
CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL CHECK THE ENGINE OIL REGULARLY, I'D RECOMMEND AT LEAST ONCE A MONTH OR EVEN MORE OFTEN IF THE CAR HAS HIGH MILEAGE. DRIVING WITH EXTREMELY LOW OIL LEVEL (LESS THAN MIN.) OR WITH LOW OIL PRESSURE WARNING LAMP ON MAY CAUSE SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE IF YOU NOTE, THAT OIL PRESSURE GAUGE INDICATES EXTREMELY LOW OIL PRESSURE - HAVE YOUR ENGINE INSPECTED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. WHILE CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL, LOOK AT ITS CONDITION. IF THE OIL IS BLACK, I'D SUGGEST CHANGING IT. - ALWAYS USE ONLY APPROPRIATE ENGINE OIL TYPE (USUALLY YOU CAN FIND IT ON OIL CAP OR IN THE OWNERS MANUAL). - CHECK YOUR PARKING SPACE FOR LEAKS. IF YOU FIND ANY, FIX IT BEFORE IT RESULTS IN MORE SERIOUS VEHICLE PROBLEM. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:49am On Jul 11, 2010 |
SYNTHETIC OIL VS CONVENTIONAL MINERAL OIL THE ADVANTAGE OF SYNTHETIC OIL IS THAT IT CAN WITHSTAND HIGHER TEMPERATURE AND CAN WORK LONGER WITHOUT LOSING ITS LUBRICATING QUALITIES. IT DOESN'T GET THICKER AT BELOW-ZERO TEMPERATURES PROVIDING GOOD ENGINE LUBRICATION AT A COLD START. HOWEVER, SINCE IT'S MORE "THINNER" A HIGH-MILEAGE ENGINE FILLED WITH SYNTHETIC OIL WILL MORE LIKELY TO DEVELOP LEAKS AND YOU WILL MORE LIKELY TO HEAR LIFTERS TAPPING NOISE AT A START. THEREFORE, IF YOU HAVE LOW MILEAGE OR TURBO ENGINE AND DRIVING UNDER HEAVY CONDITIONS SUCH AS HIGH TEMPERATURE, EXCESSIVE LOAD, LONG INTERVALS WITHOUT AN OIL CHANGE, ETC., OR SIMPLY WANT TO PROVIDE EXTRA PROTECTION FOR YOUR ENGINE, SYNTHETIC OIL MAY BE A GOOD SOLUTION. BUT I DON'T THINK IT'S WORTH TO USE SYNTHETIC OIL IN HIGH-MILEAGE ENGINES - THICKER MINERAL OIL WILL PROVIDE BETTER PROTECTION AS LONG AS YOU CHANGE IT REGULARLY. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:52am On Jul 11, 2010 |
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM ENGINE OVERHEATING CAUSES SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE. IN ORDER TO AVOID THE ENGINE OVERHEATING: CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL PERIODICALLY. IT SHOULD BE AT LEAST AT THE "MIN" MARK IN THE COOLANT RESERVOIR. IF IT'S LOWER, ADD THE COOLANT BRINGING THE LEVEL TO THE "MAX" MARK. CAUTION: NEVER OPEN THE RADIATOR OR THE COOLANT OVERFLOW RESERVOIR WHEN ENGINE IS HOT! IF YOU DISCOVER A COOLANT LEAK, HAVE IT FIXED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE - IT MAY CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING. IF YOU NOTE THAT THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE STARTS RISING HIGHER THAN NORMAL, HAVE YOUR ENGINE INSPECTED BEFORE IT WILL CAUSE SERIOUS PROBLEMS. CHECK THE FRONT OF THE RADIATOR - SOMETIMES IT MAY BE OBSTRUCTED WITH LEAVES OR DUST. IT'S ONE OF THE POSSIBLE REASONS FOR THE OVERHEATING. TRY TO AVOID USING FRONT END COVERS - THEY CAUSE RESTRICTIONS TO THE AIR FLOW THROUGH THE RADIATOR. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:55am On Jul 11, 2010 |
TUNE-UP, TIMING BELT, FUEL INJECTOR FLUSH THERE ARE CERTAIN VEHICLE COMPONENTS THAT NEED PERIODICAL REPLACEMENT (CHECK YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL FOR DETAILS) SUCH AS, FOR EXAMPLE: FUEL FILTER - DIRTY FUEL FILTER MAY CAUSE ENGINE STALLING AND LOSS OF ENGINE POWER. AIR FILTER - DIRTY AIR FILTER CAUSES LOSS OF ENGINE POWER, INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION, AIR FLOW SENSOR FAILURE, ETC. ENGINE COOLANT - OLD ENGINE COOLANT LOSES ITS ANTI-CORROSIVE AND OTHER CHARACTERISTICS AND MAY CAUSE WATER PUMP TO FAIL. SPARK PLUGS - SIMPLY SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT CAN SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVE THE ENGINE PERFORMANCE. TIMING BELT - TIMING BELT FAILURE MAY CAUSE SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IF IT'S DIESEL ENGINE. HAVING A PROBLEM WITH FUEL CONSUMPTION OR ROUGH IDLE ON A HIGH MILEAGE CAR? - TRY FUEL INJECTORS SERVICE. YOU WILL NOTE THE DIFFERENCE RIGHT AWAY. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:58am On Jul 11, 2010 |
BATTERY CAUTION: THE BATTERY FILLED WITH HARMFUL ACID SOLUTION AND CAN PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE GASES. HANDLING A BATTERY BE CAREFUL AND ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES AND GLOVES. DON'T USE OPEN FIRE, SMOKE, OR CREATE A SPARK NEAR BATTERY. MOST OF BATTERIES NOWADAYS ARE MAINTENANCE FREE. ALL YOU CHECK IS BATTERY TERMINALS THAT SHOULDN'T BE LOOSE OR CORRODED. CORRODED BATTERY TERMINALS WILL CAUSE ALL KIND OF PROBLEM: BLINKING INSTRUMENT LIGHTS, LOW CHARGE, NO-START, DIM HEADLIGHTS, CHECK ENGINE AND ABS MALFUNCTION LIGHT ETC. ALSO, IF YOU SEE ANY ACID LEAKS, CRACKS OR ANY OTHER DAMAGE - REPLACE THE BATTERY. ACID LEAKING FROM THE BATTERY DESTROYS EVERYTHING UNDERNEATH. FOR EXAMPLE ON VW GOLF IT WILL BE THE FAN CONTROL MODULE LOCATED RIGHT UNDER THE BATTERY. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 5:59am On Jul 11, 2010 |
FIX ANY SMALL PROBLEMS IF THERE IS ANY PROBLEMS WITH YOUR ENGINE, SUCH AS IRREGULAR NOISE OR SMELL, OR PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS, LEAKS OR SMOKE, OR "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT IS ON, ETC., HAVE YOUR CAR INSPECTED WITH A MECHANIC. IT'S ALWAYS BETTER TO FIX ANY SMALL PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY BEFORE THEY CAN CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE. BE AWARE, SOME MECHANICS WILL TRY TO SCARE YOU BECAUSE THEY ALWAYS WANT TO SELL YOU MORE JOB THAN YOUR CAR REALLY NEEDS, SO ALWAYS ASK THEM TO EXPLAIN EVERYTHING, TO SHOW YOU WHAT EXACTLY IS WRONG AND WHY. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 6:01am On Jul 11, 2010 |
FOR VEHICLES WITH TURBOCHARGER A TURBOCHARGER SERVES TO PUMP MORE AIR INTO THE ENGINE BOOSTING THE ENGINE POWER WITHOUT INCREASE IN THE ENGINE VOLUME. DUE TO ITS DESIGN, THE TURBOCHARGER WORKS AT VERY HIGH TEMPERATURES. THEREFORE, THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE ENGINE OIL QUALITY ARE MUCH HIGHER. LOW QUALITY, OR OLD CONTAMINATED OIL CAN BE EASILY COOKED UNDER HIGH TEMPERATURE IN THE TURBOCHARGER CAUSING IT TO FAIL. HERE ARE FEW TIPS: - IF IT'S NOT AGAINST MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDATIONS, USE SYNTHETIC OIL, OR AT LEAST BE VERY ACCURATE WITH REGULAR OIL CHANGES. - WHEN YOU STOP THE CAR AFTER HARD DRIVING (SPEEDING, TOWING, ETC.) DON'T SHUT THE ENGINE OFF RIGHT AWAY, LET IT IDLE FOR A WHILE TO COOL DOWN THE TURBOCHARGER. - VERY LONG UPHILL DRIVING UNDER CONSTANT LOAD MAY ALSO CAUSE TURBO TO OVERHEAT, TRY TO AVOID IT IF POSSIBLE. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 6:03am On Jul 11, 2010 |
FEW TIPS HOW TO IMPROVE EMISSION TEST RESULTS - CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL BEFORE TESTING. FOR OLD OR HIGH MILEAGE CAR USING THICKER OIL MAY HELP. - CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS AND THE AIR FILTER IF IT WAS A WHILE AGO SINCE YOU'VE CHANGED THEM LAST TIME. COMPLETE TUNE-UP MAY BE AN OPTION FOR OLDER CARS. - FLUSHING THE FUEL INJECTORS USUALLY HELPS. BEFORE THE TEST: - CHECK AND ADJUST TIRE PRESSURE - FILL THE CAR WITH PREMIUM GAS - TAKE A CAR FOR A SPIN ON A FREEWAY - IT HELPS TO CLEAN SPARK PLUGS AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER. - MAKE SURE, THE ENGINE IS FULLY WARMED UP BEFORE TEST. IF YOU HAVE 'CHECK ENGINE' LIGHT ON, EXHAUST LEAKS, BROKEN GAS CAP, OR ANY OTHER PROBLEM WITH VEHICLE EMISSION SYSTEM IT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED BEFORE THE TEST - ALL THOSE ITEMS WILL BE INSPECTED DURING THE EMISSION TEST. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by chelseabmw(m): 3:44pm On Jul 11, 2010 |
what a thread copy paste |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 3:08pm On Jul 14, 2010 |
[size=16pt]CHECK ENGINE AND SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT[/size] WHY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON? ALL MODERN VEHICLES HAVE A COMPUTER OR THE ECM (ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE) THAT CONTROLS THE OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE POWERTRAIN (THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION). THE MAIN PURPOSE OF THIS IS TO KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING AT TOP EFFICIENCY WITH THE LOWEST POSSIBLE EMISSIONS. WITH CONSTANTLY GROWING DEMANDS FOR BETTER FUEL ECONOMY AND NEW STRICTEST EMISSION REGULATIONS, IT'S NOT VERY EASY TO ACHIEVE. THE ENGINE PARAMETERS NEED TO BE CONSTANTLY AND PRECISELY ADJUSTED ACCORDING TO VARIOUS CONDITIONS SUCH AS SPEED, LOAD, ENGINE TEMPERATURE, GASOLINE QUALITY, AMBIENT AIR TEMPERATURE, ROAD CONDITIONS, ETC. THAT'S WHY TODAY'S CARS HAVE MUCH MORE ELECTRONICS THAN IN EARLY DAYS - THERE ARE A LARGE NUMBER OF VARIOUS SENSORS AND OTHER ELECTRONIC DEVICES THAT HELP THE VEHICLE COMPUTER OR ECM TO PRECISELY CONTROL THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION OPERATION AND MONITOR EMISSIONS. THE VEHICLE COMPUTER SYSTEM HAS SELF-TESTING CAPABILITY. WHEN THE COMPUTER SENSES THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH SOME OF THE COMPONENTS IT STORES THE CORRESPONDENT TROUBLE CODE(S) IN ITS MEMORY AND LIGHTS UP THE "CHECK ENGINE" OR "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" LIGHT TO TELL YOU THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM AND YOUR CAR NEEDS TO BE LOOKED AT. TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE WHAT IS WRONG, A TECHNICIAN WILL NEED TO RETRIEVE THE STORED TROUBLE CODE (S) FROM THE CAR COMPUTER USING A SCANNER AND LOOKS IT UP TO DESCRIBES WHAT EACH CODE MEANS AND WHAT NEEDS TO BE TESTED. THE CODE ITSELF DOESN'T TELL EXACTLY WHAT COMPONENT IS DEFECTIVE - IT ONLY INDICATES WHERE TO LOOK, WHAT ENGINE PARAMETER IS OUT OF NORMAL RANGE. THE TECHNICIAN WILL HAVE TO PERFORM FURTHER TESTING TO PINPOINT A DEFECTIVE PART. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 11:26am On Jul 15, 2010 |
HOW THIS WORKS? LET'S LOOK DEEPER HOW ALL THIS WORKS: THERE IS A NUMBER OF SENSORS THAT PROVIDE THE ECM WITH ALL NECESSARY INPUTS SUCH AS THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE, AMBIENT TEMPERATURE, VEHICLE SPEED, LOAD, ETC. ACCORDING TO THESE INPUTS, THE ECM MAKES INITIAL ADJUSTMENTS ADDING OR SUBTRACTING FUEL, ADVANCING OR RETARDING THE IGNITION TIMING, INCREASING OR DECREASING IDLE SPEED, ETC. THERE IS A PRIMARY (UPSTREAM) OXYGEN SENSOR INSTALLED IN THE EXHAUST BEFORE CATALYTIC CONVERTER THAT MONITORS THE QUALITY OF COMBUSTION IN THE CYLINDERS. BASED ON THE FEEDBACK FROM THIS OXYGEN SENSOR THE ECM MAKES FURTHER ADJUSTMENTS TO THE AIR-FUEL MIXTURE TO REDUCE EMISSIONS.THERE IS ANOTHER, SECONDARY (DOWNSTREAM) OXYGEN SENSOR INSTALLED AFTER CATALYTIC CONVERTER IN THE EXHAUST THAT MONITORS CATALYTIC CONVERTER'S EFFICIENCY. BESIDES, THERE ARE FEW ADDITIONAL VEHICLE SYSTEMS RELATED TO THE EMISSION CONTROL. FOR EXAMPLE, THERE IS AN EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM (EVAP) THAT PREVENTS GASOLINE VAPORS INSIDE THE GAS TANK FROM ESCAPING INTO THE ATMOSPHERE. THE EVAP SYSTEM ALSO CONTAINS A NUMBER OF SENSORS AND ACTUATORS CONTROLLED BY THE ECM. THE COMPUTER OR ECM CONSTANTLY TESTS OPERATION OF ALL SENSORS AND COMPONENTS. WHEN ANY OF THE SENSOR SIGNALS IS MISSING OR OUT OF NORMAL RANGE, THE ECM SETS A FAULT AND ILLUMINATES THE "CHECK ENGINE" OR "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" LIGHT ALSO CALLED MIL (MALFUNCTION INDICATION LIGHT) STORING THE CORRESPONDING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) IN THE ECM MEMORY. THE SAME HAPPENS IF A MECHANICAL COMPONENT OF CONTROLLED SYSTEM FAILS. FOR EXAMPLE, MECHANICAL PROBLEM INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION ALSO CAN TURN THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT ON. EVEN NOT PROPERLY CLOSED GAS CAP WILL CAUSE THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT TO COME ON - THE ECM CONSTANTLY CHECKS IF THE GAS TANK IS SEALED PROPERLY. TO SUM UP, WHEN THE "CHECK ENGINE" OR "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" LIGHT COMES ON AND STAYS ON, THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH YOUR VEHICLE. THIS COULD BE A PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, OR SOME EMISSION-RELATED COMPONENT OR SYSTEM. THE STORED TROUBLE CODE CAN BE RETRIEVED WITH A SCAN TOOL. THE CODE ITSELF DOES NOT TELL EXACTLY WHICH PART TO REPLACE, IT ONLY GIVES A DIRECTION WHERE TO LOOK - THE TECHNICIAN HAS TO PERFORM CERTAIN TESTS SPECIFIC FOR EACH CODE TO FIND THE EXACT CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 12:27pm On Jul 16, 2010 |
Q: WHAT TO DO IF "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT IS ON? A: THE SIMPLEST WAY IS TO VISIT A TECHNICIAN FOR PROPER DIAGNOSTIC. THEY HAVE ALL THE EQUIPMENT AND INFORMATION NEEDED TO DIAGNOSE AND CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Q: IS IT SAFE TO DRIVE IF "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT IS ON? A: IT REALLY DEPENDS WHAT CODE IS STORED AND WHAT CAUSED IT. IN WORST CASES DRIVING WITH "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT MAY CAUSE MORE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. THE CAR MAY EVEN STALL WHILE DRIVING. IF YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON, PLEASE VISIT YOUR TECHNICIAN FOR A PROPER DIAGNOSE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, JUST TO BE ON A SAFE SIDE. IF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS FLASHING, THIS MEANS THAT THE ENGINE COMPUTER (ECM) HAS DETECTED THAT YOUR ENGINE IS MISFIRING, WHICH COULD DAMAGE YOUR CATALYTIC CONVERTER. HAVE YOUR VEHICLE INSPECTED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Q: WILL DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY RESET THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT? A: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY MIGHT RESET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IN SOME CARS. HOWEVER, INSTEAD OF DOING SO, PLEASE TAKE YOUR CAR TO A TECHNICIAN FOR PROPER DIAGNOSTIC, AND HERE IS WHY: - NOT ALL CARS WILL CLEAR THE CODE AFTER DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY - SOME PROBLEMS, IF NOT REPAIRED IN TIME MAY CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE AND MORE COSTLY REPAIR. - THE READINESS CODE WILL BE ERASED, WHICH MAY PREVENT YOUR CAR FROM COMPLETING AN EMISSIONS TEST. (READINESS CODE IS AN INDICATION THAT CERTAIN EMISSION CONTROL COMPONENTS OF YOUR CAR HAVE BEEN SELF-TESTED) - THE RADIO, IF CODE-PROTECTED, MAY BE LOCKED AFTER DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY - THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT WILL COME BACK ANYWAY IF THE PROBLEM STILL EXIST. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 6:21am On Jul 17, 2010 |
Q: CAN I PULL THE "CHECK ENGINE" CODE MYSELF? A: IF YOU HAVE THE APPROPRIATE SCAN TOOL OR SOFTWARE AND SOME TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE, IT'S NOT SO DIFFICULT TO PULL A STORED TROUBLE CODE(S). IT WAS QUITE DIFFICULT BEFORE, SINCE EACH CAR MANUFACTURER HAD DIFFERENT CODE ASSIGNMENT AND DIFFERENT DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTORS AND PROTOCOLS. LUCKILY, IN 1996 IN THE UNITED STATES, A FEDERAL LAW CAME INTO FORCE REQUIRING ALL US-SOLD CARS TO BE OBDII (THE ON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS SYSTEM VERSION 2) COMPLIANT. THIS MEANS THAT ALL CARS FROM 1996 ON MUST BE ABLE TO BE DIAGNOSED WITH GENERIC OBDII SCANNER. THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR IS IDENTICAL ON ALL OBD II CARS AS WELL AS ITS LOCATION - SOMEWHERE AROUND THE DRIVER'S PLACE UNDER THE DASHBOARD. THERE IS A NUMBER OF SCAN TOOLS AND SOFTWARE AVAILABLE THAT CAN SCAN THE VEHICLE'S COMPUTER FOR TROUBLE CODES. HOWEVER, YOU NEED TO HAVE SOME TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM; THE TROUBLE CODE ITSELF DOES NOT TELL EXACTLY WHICH PART TO REPLACE. FOR EXAMPLE, THE CODE P0401 READS "INSUFFICIENT EGR SYSTEM FLOW", BUT IT COULD BE SET FOR A NUMBER OF REASONS, SUCH AS BAD EGR VALVE, CLOGGED EGR PASSAGE - THERE IS A SPECIFIC TEST PROCEDURE TO BE PERFORMED TO PINPOINT THE PROBLEM PART. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 6:28am On Jul 17, 2010 |
Q: HOW DO I CLEAR CODE P0133? A: CODE P0133 READS "BANK 1 SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE"; MEANING THE FRONT OXYGEN SENSOR (LOCATED BEFORE CATALYTIC CONVERTER) HAS SLOW RESPONSE TIME TO THE CHANGES IN THE AIR-FUEL MIXTURE. THIS COULD HAPPEN FOR MANY REASONS, FOR EXAMPLE: BAD OXYGEN SENSOR ITSELF, BAD OR CONTAMINATED AIRFLOW SENSOR, INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAK, EXHAUST LEAK, PROBLEM WITH THE WIRING, ETC. IF THIS OCCURS VISIT YOUR TECHNICIAN FOR PROPER TESTING PROCEDURE TO PINPOINT THE EXACT CAUSE. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 6:31am On Jul 17, 2010 |
Q: WHAT DOES THE CODE P0102 MEAN? A: THE CODE P0102 READS "MASS AIR FLOW CIRCUIT LOW INPUT". THERE IS A CERTAIN PROCEDURE TO TEST MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR (MAF) FOR PROPER OPERATION. YOUR KNOWLEDGEABLE TECHNICIAN SHOULD BE ABLE TO PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE TO CHECK IF THE SENSOR IS FAULTY. MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR FAILURE IS VERY COMMON. |
| Re: AUTO MAINTENANCE TIPS by AGARIautos: 6:32am On Jul 17, 2010 |
Q: WHAT IS THE CODE P1000? A: P1000 IS NOT ACTUALLY A TROUBLE CODE. IT JUST MEANS THAT THE READINESS CODE HAS NOT BEEN SET YET OR IN OTHER WORDS, THE ENGINE COMPUTER HASN'T COMPLETED TESTING CERTAIN EMISSION CONTROL COMPONENTS. IF THERE IS NO OTHER PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR EMISSION SYSTEM, THE CODE P1000 WILL DISAPPEAR AFTER DRIVING FOR SOME TIME (THE DRIVE CYCLE MUST INCLUDE IDLING, STOP AND GO TRAFFIC, ACCELERATION AND STEADY CRUISING). |
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