Hello Trac, been a while, happy to inform you that I finally changed the oil - 10-40w as recommended , I did notice the diff in performance, the oil was so light, I was initially scared it would smoke, but no way, it revs and steams good.

on the AC challenge, I did lots of work lately, even though I was discouraged not to bother with d AC wahala as its known to give serious headaches,

I traced consistent leakages to compressor and the evaporator, and have virtually changed everything as @ ystdy, Evaporator, Condenser, drier, and compressor, the only thing I didnt change were the hoses cos they were still very ok, all these is in a bid to break the jinx of MB ac wahala,

so far so good, I think its gonna be ok, would give update in 2weeks,

out to do a radiator flush,

the RED ABRO radiator coolant product says it has low silicon just as Zerex G-05 recommended by Benz,

please do advice since I can find Zerex product here,,,

thanks

update on radiator flush , for those who havent done it before, pls make sure u allow bubbles to escape thru the thermostat hole, ( bleeding) else it would over heat, continue to add water until the water leaves @ the other end with no bubble/air or gas,

this was wat I experienced today, I thought I had done complete bleeding, but later discorvered there were lots of air inside the cooling chamber,

kuntash:

update on radiator flush , for those who havent done it before, pls make sure u allow bubbles to escape thru the thermostat hole, ( bleeding) else it would over heat, continue to add water until the water leaves @ the other end with no bubble/air or gas,

this was wat I experienced today, I thought I had done complete bleeding, but later discorvered there were lots of air inside the cooling chamber,

That's very good.

kuntash:

Hello Trac, been a while, happy to inform you that I finally changed the oil - 10-40w as recommended , I did notice the diff in performance, the oil was so light, I was initially scared it would smoke, but no way, it revs and steams good.

on the AC challenge, I did lots of work lately, even though I was discouraged not to bother with d AC wahala as its known to give serious headaches,

I traced consistent leakages to compressor and the evaporator, and have virtually changed everything as @ ystdy, Evaporator, Condenser, drier, and compressor, the only thing I didnt change were the hoses cos they were still very ok, all these is in a bid to break the jinx of MB ac wahala,

so far so good, I think its gonna be ok, would give update in 2weeks,

out to do a radiator flush,

It really is good news to hear that 40 weight oil is what you opted for. The oil aids in the cooling of an engine as well. In the case of a Mercedes, it is a serious precaution because engine runs very hot and the oil after a period of hot runs or frequency of hot runs (110degC and up) would break down prematurely. I've had Mobil1 0w-40 break down on me prematurely. I doubt if the oil was 4 months and I hadn't driven 650 miles on it. I use the 15 months change interval.

Is your A/C evaporator copper tubing type? That is where the Achilles heels to those systems were. The copper manifold never went well with the aluminum cores.

kuntash:

the RED ABRO radiator coolant product says it has low silicon just as Zerex G-05 recommended by Benz,

please do advice since I can find Zerex product here,,,

thanks

This is good also but you cannot use it for the duration of an MB fluid or Zerex. I'd recommend every year or at best, every 15 months. I do mine every year and I am using Zerex (which MB approves). In addition to that, it's been very hot where in the city where I live and the heat has been triple digits for a few months now and no rain.

kuntash:

update on radiator flush , for those who havent done it before, pls make sure u allow bubbles to escape thru the thermostat hole, ( bleeding) else it would over heat, continue to add water until the water leaves @ the other end with no bubble/air or gas,

this was wat I experienced today, I thought I had done complete bleeding, but later discorvered there were lots of air inside the cooling chamber

This has saved me from explaining certain procedures. I do commend you but I don't know how you did your service. As stated in the other thread, I will detail the procedures.

Let's recap:

Thermostat is partially opened at 85degC and would maintain a modal temp of 85 – 89degC. Thermostat fully opens at 102degC. The electrical fan at stage 1 cuts in at 100degC. Since have a four cylinder square block under Daimler Benz, the mechanical viscous fan kicks in at 102degC. This is for the sake of appreciable power and torque across the rpm band and also fuel economy on overall miles per gallon. In the sixers and eights, the viscous fan cuts in at 95degC. Parasitic loss is not noticeable in the sixers and higher. The electrical fan at stage 2 cuts in at 115degC. At 126degC, your air conditioning cuts off and at 130degC, engine begins to flounder keeping the laws of Heat Transfer. At 135degC and up, your engine overheats.

You will experience all these sequences when you do your flush yourself.

In this service, it is in three stages. Ridding the block off the coolant, removing the oil from the heat and cooling system and flushing the heat and cooling system. It takes me about two hours and half a tank of gas. This is because I am not using any equipment and it has to be thorough and also, the heating cycles have orders and they don’t happen in a minute.

I do mine with my thermostat mounted. Maybe the time would be shorter (from what I am thinking due to certain principles) but I never tried it. Maybe someone will tell me.

You have drained the coolant of the crankcase block, so I need not address that. This is one of the aspects where the pain is. You have to rid it from the whole block and it isn’t too easy doing it the primitive way but with continuous application of water over a period of time in the expansion tank, you should be able to get a steady 3 minutes of just plain water flowing from the bottom drain plug canal. It is at this point you will experience the operations of the cooling system. This also will need you to be cranking the engine and turning off repeatedly.

Te second phase is removing the oil from the heater core and cooling system. You will need a solution that cleans does this. I can’t remember what it is called but it’s inexpensive and I buy it all with the coolants and other accessories. You won’t need much but it’s potent. You mix it with water or seal your drain orifice and pour into your expansion tank and fill with water. Go into your vehicle, set the climate control to neutral (the tab should be white, not blue or red) or warm. If you have a split climate control, set both to white. Crank the engine and closely top the expansion tank as the air comes out. You only have about a minute to two to do this and seal the expansion before it gets hot. Let the engine run for 10 minutes. Since there wasn’t coolant, it is very hot, so you wait a few minutes with the engine off but the system on. In other words, the key is set to ON. This makes the fan run till it cuts off. Then it is quite safe to drain the radiator and block because it is warm. The flushing with water of the radiator and block repeats itself and you have to rid it of the mixture that was in there. The flushing should be done while the engine is running and you stop when all that comes out is water. When done, you should rinse the fin of the radiator (as best as you can). Be very careful as you try to flush the fins so that you don’t wet something that shouldn’t be wet. An extreme example is when your sunroof opens up and your rear windows roll down a bit. This is a safety design by Mercedes and the vehicle thinks you are in water and providing a means for you to escape.

The third phase will be to heat and cooling system flush. This requires a bit more involvement. With the expansion tank open and your source of water ready, crank the ignition and set your climate control to maximum dial (red) and push the defroster button. With the expansion tank being fed with water, you will feed the gas throttle for 15 minutes at 2500rpm. When done, drain the radiator and block and have your coolant mixture ready. You are familiar with this aspect.

^^^^^ thanks for this lecture Trac,

I would sure save this for future reference,

where I missed our was to run the engine while the flush was on-going. ALSO IT WAS A MACHINE FLUSH.

would do better next time.

thanks alot.

kuntash:

^^^^^ thanks for this lecture Trac,

I would sure save this for future reference,

where I missed our was to run the engine while the flush was on-going. ALSO IT WAS A MACHINE FLUSH.

would do better next time.

thanks alot.

You are welcome. The reason why it is so is partly because the engines are designed differently from other engines. When you blow your head gasket, you don't loose compression in the cylinders. It is also not uncommon to have some minimal traces of exhaust gases in your coolant. It'll float at the top of the coolant as black powder (at most, a pinch amount size). This is not always the case, but after a lot of hot driving. All these is why from the drain to the coolant refill is done differently.

Hi all, I was just looking for where I once complained of a bad idling and load compensation etc, I am sure in some of my earlier posts on this thread,

Alas, I was able to narrow down troubleshooting to the ECU (engine brainbox)

just yesterday, after trying all manner of troubleshooting, and detecting the current doesnt get to the Actuator, the electrical guy says its gonna cost me like 50k, to resolve the problem

Although he didnt tell me it could be the ECU, , I was just discouraged and thinking of 50k after paying the children's skool fees. , if u ask me, eyes don red I would say,

on a second thought my mechanic suggested we try another ECU to see, before u could ask the sellers brought in 2 ECU, the first one failed and worked just as my own, when we tried the second, behold, it worked! loaded the engine (i.e turned on the AC, engaged the gear and turned the steering to the end, ) my RPM was between 600 & 700. and ofcourse was about same when all the load was removed, I did jumped for joy!

this morning, on starting the car, the RPM went up to about 1200 until the temp climbed to about 80 degrees, again, this is very normal, I have celebrated this with Siena, and he understood the technical stuff that happened, and perhaps he or TRAC could say more,

I was glad cos that was what I have been trying to achieve for about a yr now, I knew thats how its supposed to work, and not dragging down when loaded or stalls and sometimes goes off.

I am not exactly sure of the cause of the problem since I had it naija used, but for sure I wont isolate our "re-wire" ,

so Guys learn from this, try as much as possible to follow how Oyinbo people fix there motor and dont listen to comments such as " e doesnt matter" , " it would work like that" , "this one does same work" , etc from mechanics or re-wire. cos they are the genesis of such problem.


Thanks to wonderful guys like Siena & Trac , they did assist with much of the troubleshooting, una well done.

oh! I didnt forget the cost of the ECU, he handed it over when he saw 15k cash, Learnt it was more than this bofore, I cant guarantee he would sell exactly that price in the future,

kuntash:

Hi all, I was just looking for where I once complained of a bad idling and load compensation etc, I am sure in some of my earlier posts on this thread,

Alas, I was able to narrow down troubleshooting to the ECU (engine brainbox)

just yesterday, after trying all manner of troubleshooting, and detecting the current doesnt get to the Actuator, the electrical guy says its gonna cost me like 50k, to resolve the problem

Although he didnt tell me it could be the ECU, , I was just discouraged and thinking of 50k after paying the children's skool fees. , if u ask me, eyes don red I would say,

on a second thought my mechanic suggested we try another ECU to see, before u could ask the sellers brought in 2 ECU, the first one failed and worked just as my own, when we tried the second, behold, it worked! loaded the engine (i.e turned on the AC, engaged the gear and turned the steering to the end, ) my RPM was between 600 & 700. and ofcourse was about same when all the load was removed, I did jumped for joy!

this morning, on starting the car, the RPM went up to about 1200 until the temp climbed to about 80 degrees, again, this is very normal, I have celebrated this with Siena, and he understood the technical stuff that happened, and perhaps he or TRAC could say more,

I was glad cos that was what I have been trying to achieve for about a yr now, I knew thats how its supposed to work, and not dragging down when loaded or stalls and sometimes goes off.

I am not exactly sure of the cause of the problem since I had it naija used, but for sure I wont isolate our "re-wire" ,

so Guys learn from this, try as much as possible to follow how Oyinbo people fix there motor and dont listen to comments such as " e doesnt matter" , " it would work like that" , "this one does same work" , etc from mechanics or re-wire. cos they are the genesis of such problem.


Thanks to wonderful guys like Siena & Trac , they did assist with much of the troubleshooting, una well done.

oh! I didnt forget the cost of the ECU, he handed it over when he saw 15k cash, Learnt it was more than this bofore, I cant guarantee he would sell exactly that price in the future,

You have good principles and I like that. You are one of the few Nigerians that I know with this mentality. The right thing will always be the right thing; black or white - night or day. Deleting and omitting without understanding only leads to issues and it gets worse when there are multiple scenarios of that sort. People will think you are stupid or too tight against being liberal but it will indeed save you a lot of headache and money. If anyone would do modifications, the person better be able to explain why from every tangential point of the circle. You just don't omit what the manufacturer put in there. If such a person knew better than the engineers that put the car to production, he/she should have been working there.


Now! You have a bit of a handful on you and I'm not too sure where to begin with. You don't need another ECU. An ECU is a PLC (programmable logic controller) and it is designed to do only what it is intended to do 100% of the time while sustaining abuse, vibrations and other rough conditions. It is not an OS and doesn't use a hard drive, so it would not crash or hesitate. No automotive company would compromise on the development and production of this unit. I don't know of other cars but in a Mercedes, before you fry your ECU, there are two kingpins to defeat before damaging your ECU. One will put you in limp-mode and the other will or may not put you in limp-home mode but cause a bit of poor driveability. The bosses are the OVP and OVP fuse. OVP is overload voltage protector. If the fuse ever burns, you are to do some investigation before replacing the fuse. Look at your engine tattoo to find out where it is. The main OVP itself will limp you home and then disable the engine. Now, you have something serious and the OVP laid itself down at the expense of the ECU. This is designed as mentioned because something critical is going on. The OVP also is known to go bad as well. The OVP is located behind the battery compartment. There is a false wall behind the battery site. Taking it out of place will reveal the ECU and some other components. A white cylindrical component that has a transparent air sealed cover is the OVP. That's all about the ECU.


To address your issue(s) - I do believe that you have a mass-air-meter (MAF). Ask your mechanic to verify this. They are located in one or two places; over the square-block or behind the radiator along side with the fan shroud.


First of all, check your wiring loom (nervous wiring or wiring harness). Some were fitted with biodegradable looms/harnesses and couldn't withstand the heat of the engine bay. Regardless of use or not, they harden with age and become brittle. If that is your case, that needs to be done. Your problems are gone.


If it's all good, inspect all these:

(1) Idle Control Valve
(2) OVP Relay
(3) Fuel Pump Relay
(4) EHA (Electro Hydaulic Actuator)
(5) IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Circuit) - main culprit for rough idling. They crack due to age. The tubes are what I am referring to in this case.



I am more than positive that these are the areas concerned. There is no doubt that I may have skipped one or two - a few maybe or not enlightened about certain aspects of MB's HFM SEFI's operations.

This may sound silly but it may be worth the try. Inspect your plugs. They may be due for replacement. If a gap gets too wide, the ECU will shut that cylinder down to prevent at the expense of the catalytic converter. You are to run hot grade plugs lest you have bad gas mileage and vehicle may not run as designed to.


Let's know what's up.

Cheers.

one again, thanks Trac.

(1) Idle Control Valve
(2) OVP Relay
(3) Fuel Pump Relay
(4) EHA (Electro Hydaulic Actuator)
(5) IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Circuit)

I however do not know where exactly these are, with the exception of the OVP. or maybe I might have seen them but dont know the names.

as rgds MAF, I am sure my car does not have this, I think we have also mentioned it on this thread that some C class do not have MAF . most of the W202 I ve seen always have their MAF positioned on the air inlet path after the air filter chamber., mine there is nothing like that in my model.

the plugs I have in there is less than two months old, I think its even one of the best for Benz in the market , they call it STAR plugs,

as for the OVP, its located @ d passenger side of the hood, a rectangular shinning silver-like relay with a fuse on top, 
My battery is in the booth, maybe I would have to take some pics and show here, 

meanwhile, on the inlet manifold after the throttle head leading to the engine @ the rear, there is a little hose connecting the ECU - when this hose is removed the engine goes off.

also, in the booth there is a black box for fuse, there are about four fuses there currently, one is certainly for the antennae, I dont know what the others are meant for,

as I said, I would take some shots and share here,

Finally, a question, does the Oxygen sensor go bad easily? how many does it have?

thanks

I've always been in love with Benz right from childhood but when I was about acquiring one I was discouraged - people said it consums fuel and parts are expensive. I need more clarification on this.

kuntash:

one again, thanks Trac.

(1) Idle Control Valve
(2) OVP Relay
(3) Fuel Pump Relay
(4) EHA (Electro Hydaulic Actuator)
(5) IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Circuit)

I however do not know where exactly these are, with the exception of the OVP. or maybe I might have seen them but dont know the names.

as rgds MAF, I am sure my car does not have this, I think we have also mentioned it on this thread that some C class do not have MAF . most of the W202 I ve seen always have their MAF positioned on the air inlet path after the air filter chamber., mine there is nothing like that in my model.

the plugs I have in there is less than two months old, I think its even one of the best for Benz in the market , they call it STAR plugs,

as for the OVP, its located @ d passenger side of the hood, a rectangular shinning silver-like relay with a fuse on top, 
My battery is in the booth, maybe I would have to take some pics and show here, 

meanwhile, on the inlet manifold after the throttle head leading to the engine @ the rear, there is a little hose connecting the ECU - when this hose is removed the engine goes off.

also, in the booth there is a black box for fuse, there are about four fuses there currently, one is certainly for the antennae, I dont know what the others are meant for,

as I said, I would take some shots and share here,

Finally, a question, does the Oxygen sensor go bad easily? how many does it have?

thanks

You are welcome Kuntash,



I do remember you stating that it is omitted in your vehicle but logically thinking, it is not possible.  You have an HFM system and it cannot exist without one.  The black runner over the engine block is the HFM runner and how it is missing is a bit difficult to understand.  You don't have the CIS or KE Injection and you separate ignition coils for each plugs thus eliminating the high voltage distributor.  I'll be more than happy to understand what's up.  Something just isn't right.  In my understanding, HFM cannot exist without a MAF due to its nature of operations.  It's probably somewhere else. 

I did not know the 200's had their batteries in the back.  I am not sure which you are referring to.  The OVP fuse and the OVP relay are two different items that must work in tandem.  The one with a 10A fuse mounted on top is not the actual OVP itself but another gatekeeper to the actual OVP.  This one is not necessarily hidden.  The main OVP would be hidden behind a false wall.  That is between the firewall and the dash.  It will have something to the effect of 30A with different 87 variants written on it.  It is airsealed also and when you fiddle with the relay, it should be 9 pins.  This is at the firewall aspect of the passenger's side.  It should be hidden (to avoid heat and moisture.  Push the wall, there is a quasi-plastic barrier. 

The air injection relay is by the firewall at the drivers side (not too far in distance to the speaker dash). 


Care needs to be taken here.  You will need a lot.  Whoever would do this service better not be a novice on Mercedes.  You'll be looking at thousands of dollars to the throttle actuator if anything goes wrong.  It is expensive, so care be taken.


The Idle Air Control Circuit is in the Speed Control Assembly or Electronic Assembly Actuator.  That is, follow the black cross-pipe from the left (facing the engine) all the way to the right.  Where it ends is where the entire family is.  You will have to take the cross-pipe out, then you get to the Idle Speed Control Actuator.  It is mated with to the throttle valve actuator (you'd know because it's a butterfly trap valve) to make a one unified unit.  The Idle Air Control Circuit would be connected to the very bottom of the throttle valve actuator -- not the top. Inspect the hoses for any kind of leaks.


//If you have gunk or oil in this butterfly valve, carefully rid it.  It is not normal.


The Fuel Relay Pump is in the boot at the passengers side to perpendicular to the tail light assembly.  It is by the site of the fuse-box, not to far from it.  It is usually independent of the fuse assembly.  You can't miss it.


As for the EHA, I really can't tell where it is.  It will be labeled on the blueprint tattoo on your engine bay frame. 


Some people claim that O₂ sensors go bad easily and should be replaced every "so" thousand miles.  I never had to do so on any of my cars.  I do the tune-ups and other ignition related systems on my cars and for friends and I never had a need to do so.  I am a very picky person and strict on that note.  I know when a car is running rich or lean, wasting fuel, running poorly or I'm applying a little more throttle pressure than I use to.  My emmisions have all been drastically low compared to the State's expectations.  I don't know what the life-expectancy is.  Well, someone's going to have to put in an input to this.  They're inexpensive.


Did you gap your plugs?  It should be .32mm (if you didn't).

kuntash:


also, in the booth there is a black box for fuse, there are about four fuses there currently, one is certainly for the antennae, I dont know what the others are meant for,

The fuse box in the back is responsible for most of the vehicle's control-systems (including the nannies), headlights, heating/cooling systems and many others.  Electricals are not really my strengths and I tend not to bother with that area, generally.  What I do take concern in is the stability control-systems, ignition control-systems, fuel duties and the batteries to keep them running.  With the few listed, it's more than a hand-full.  Anything else, gets too complicated.  The electronic stability program is complicated on its own, how much more the others.  Besides any of the aforementioned, I'll simply take my car to have it worked on.  It usually spends the night.


I will look into the m111 with respect to the MAF.  The R170 was fitted with m111.  I will let you know what my findings are.  -- might take a while, though.

jek1471:

I've always been in love with Benz right from childhood but when I was about acquiring one I was discouraged - people said it consums fuel and parts are expensive. I need more clarification on this.

Benzes don't burn fuel. A Ford and Chevy does. They use a lot of gas and offer you no performance. The have tall gearing, so the faster you coast, the more you save. The tin cars you see on the road are estimated highway miles at 55mph. They are not any better because the chassis is light and the engine is skimmed. Depending on some models, some parts can be expensive. This is particularly true of the normal series. This isn't so in regards to the tuned or wild series.

@TRAC
Good Job u doing here
Saw ur response regarding the ML320 2000Model
Pls, does this also apply to the 2006/7 ML series ?? because am about buying one and i hear they are not that reliable, durable for naija road moroever they are expensive to maintain and frequently over-heat
Pls, what is your sincere opinion on this ??
Hope to hear from you soon
Thanks

@Kuntash,


What is the outcome to your wiring loom (harness). Many MB's of the era came with biodegradable harnesses. Before any of the listed services are to be done, be sure to unhook the battery terminals, starting with the positive terminal and reconnecting starting with the negative.

oyewole123:

@TRAC
Good Job u doing here
Saw your response regarding the ML320 2000Model
Pls, does this also apply to the 2006/7 ML series ?? because am about buying one and i hear they are not that reliable, durable for naija road moroever they are expensive to maintain and frequently over-heat
Pls, what is your sincere opinion on this ??
Hope to hear from you soon
Thanks

My response did not apply to the 06/07 models for that's another "kettle of fish." I'm not too familiar with that model because it has never been of interest to me. Owner experiences haven't been too positive either but I can't use that as a standard. These vehicles are designed well but the builds are questionable (in my opinion). Overall, the ML's are nice vehicles when they work and unfunny when they don't. The model years you are referring to are not as old to predict how their maintenance outcome would turn out as they build up on miles. However, I am going to answer your questions as you expect of me.

The 2006/2007 should be fitted with the m_272/273. For this purpose alone, stay away from it. The engine (one of the same) is flawed. The same motor is in the E's, C's and other models too. The repair is very expensive and MB engines from the mid-nineties are not rebuildable due to bias-designs, bias purposes and processes in the building of the block from the factory. This has to do with the shaft that addresses the second order vibrations in the v style engine. There is a quick-fix but it's as using a band-aid on a broken chair. There is a class-action lawsuit currently and many are still doing this repair. There are other repairs too that are expensive but the money isn't the problem, it is the time wasted and the disturbed peace of mind because the maintenance isn't routine. The vehicles are not known to over-heat. In some cases, the supercharged models have the tendencies in extreme heat and traffic.


If you decide to get one:
Avoid the V6's. In actuality, it is not a v6 but a chopped V8. What I know about engine designs, it is worse than the v6 design itself (keep in mind that a v6 is a flawed engine and expensive to correct in research and time). It's been bad news from the m_112's as the shafts barely counters the vibrations of the pistons and it's known to rip out through the engine. Obviously, it's an advance mechanical repair. Stick with a v8 (and that goes for any MB you buy). The difference in miles-per-gallon is 1mpg. Get yourself some control arms as well and a set of replacement suspension. It is designed to go 40,000 and you will have to replace them. It is pricey though ($1800 each and you need 4). I'll recommend an aftermarket brand, cheaper and longer in lasting (about $400 - 500 each). The best route is to repair them yourself (if you know how or someone you know). Set some money aside to fix misc. unexpected issues. It isn't uncommon that they may run into several thousands of dollars. I can't really speak too much since the lifecycle hasn't ended. One thing I will not recommend you to do is to use it as a daily driver (dd).

Stay away from the V6's (no matter the displacement). A 90 degree v6 is just clumsy. The only advantage is the savings in the production costs.


This is a bit offtopic & offthread. If you have such money to spend on a ML, consider the Cayennes. It takes one drive. It is not plastic-like as the Mercedes and you don't have the issues and maintenance bills as the ML's. It's durable and can take serious abuses. In a decade, it'll be lot's of "episodes" cheaper.

In all, if you decide to opt for the M Class, avoid the V6's. In addition to that, it is best practice to avoid the first and second year models.

Hi Trac,

Really educative reading the whole write up from you.
Wish i came across this way back before now ,
Already bought a V6 ML 350 2006 .
What should i start preparing for ?
I've got ESP/ABS alarm already ?
how do i clear?
Helpppppppppppppppppppppp

Guys i just got a 2000 model CLK320 Kompressor(coupe) with a V6 Engine for the past 3months i've been replacing the airmast(airflow meter) after every replacement, the car wud come to nomalcy but jst after 2 to 3weeks i'd start noticing the black carbon on the exhuast pipe as usaul. The technicians aren't even helping maters, I've changed the fuel pump as well, and now, i'm just getting tireed of the whole thing. I buy each of these air flow meter for 25k, the parts are too expensive, each time i start noticing the black carbon (smoke), i also notice the car wud be vibrating while steaming. The car is a real german machine, but the parts are absolutely too expensive here, My only headache now, is how to get an original airflow meter, i remember spending N102,000.00 last 3weeks trying to fix the car but still the problem persit. i'll need your honest advice please, expecially from some of you who really have broad expirience on Benz. thank ya'll and God bless

labamba:

Hi Trac,

Really educative reading the whole write up from you.
Wish i came across this way back before now ,
Already bought a V6 ML 350 2006 .
What should i start preparing for ?
I've got ESP/ABS alarm already ?
how do i clear?
Helpppppppppppppppppppppp

I'm sorry for being late on response (I also did not get an e-mail notification).

A lot of things can initial a warning for ESP failure. The simplest of the culprit could be a burnt tail bulb. The ESP is a complex service to diagnose and I would not recommend you warning but a thorough diagnosis. It isn't uncommon for brake failures to occur without warning when you have an ESP malfunction warning on. The E's, SL and other variants with SBC are known to fail without warning or error codes and you have nothing but the engines safely downshifting to one.


Lambamba, take the vehicle for repairs. A complete inspection and replacement of all wear component would have to be done. It will not profit you to delete the error warning. Inspect all bulbs as well.

pimpJay11:

Guys i just got a 2000 model CLK320 Kompressor(coupe) with a V6 Engine for the past 3months i've been replacing the airmast(airflow meter) after every replacement, the car wud come to nomalcy but jst after 2 to 3weeks i'd start noticing the black carbon on the exhuast pipe as usaul. The technicians aren't even helping maters, I've changed the fuel pump as well, and now, i'm just getting tireed of the whole thing. I buy each of these air flow meter for 25k, the parts are too expensive, each time i start noticing the black carbon (smoke), i also notice the car wud be vibrating while steaming. The car is a real german machine, but the parts are absolutely too expensive here,  My only headache now, is how to get an original airflow meter, i remember spending N102,000.00 last 3weeks trying to fix the car but still the problem persit. i'll need your honest advice please,  expecially from some of you who really have broad expirience on Benz. thank ya'll and God bless

Jay,


The "cars" are good when they work.  On the contrary - - - (I leave you to finish the sentence).  I don't know who to blame on this; this is not the nature of this vehicle.  I hope I am not reading too deep into what you have stated but this is a heap of a mess.

What made this even worse besides the fact that it is in a serious mess is that the setup is forced induced (supercharged).  I avoid turbos and superchargers.  Unlike atmospherically aspirated engines, the state of health of the engine must always be excellent or near excellent.  There are also additional issues associated with them (including one that ought not to be working on them).

I'll state my opinion, though very I'm very limited in your case.  You ought not to have replaced the MAF (mass air flow metre) more than once.  An experienced mechanic should not have replaced it at all.  It ought to have been cleaned and that would be it.  I doubt if it needed to have been replaced in the first place.  All the MAF does is to convert air into current.  Bosch should be the only brand to be used.  Check all six plugs and ensure they are gapped right and still have some life in them.  If one or two are bad, you need to replace all.  This would be a host of a lot of problems.  The plugs have to be +1 or +2 hot range plugs.  If you cannot find (which I doubt), the standard 0 should be used but should be the last resort.  If you use cold plugs, you will have poor fuel economy.  Engine will misfire when you stop after a high-speed coasting.  I believe this has/had nothing to do with your case.  The MAF should not have been disturbed in the first place.

You are actually dumping fuel.  Fuel is being unburnt, thus causing you to run rich.  Your Air/Fuel ratio is out of proportion.  This is where the case becomes awry and difficult.  Your "fuel-duty" has been compromised.  What ever was done is serious advance adjustments.  At this point, the ECU has shut down your catalytic converter to prevent it from damage.  There was absolutely no reason to have replaced the fuel pump.  If it was bad, engine wouldn't crank because pump will fail to prime and conditions within the ECU require that pressure has to be at 50psi before engine will crank over.  When replacing the "fuel pump," both pumps have to be replaced.

I have a feeling that the supercharger (blower) is bad and would need replacement.  This is synonymous to the fact that you are lacking boost pressure from the blower itself.  If it is all good, then adjustments have been altered somewhere.  I will not be surprised if the wrong ECU was fitted into your vehicle. 

You will need a professional on this.  Don't buy another part or major part.  This needs readjustments.  I am surprised that you are able to drive it.  The vehicle should have been in limp-mode.  As I said, this left to the professionals and not just the professionals but experienced of them.  There are nairalanders that can advice you on this. 


Cheers - give your feedback as you make progress.

Hi Trac,
a comendable effort on your part to many MB users;just like Siena is to Audi users.am new on MB.just got a 2002 ML 500 and would want to know what to expect in all ramification.(the good and the bad)
tanx and do keep up the good work

When your talking of a Cars i don't think any car Beat Mercedes Benz , i drive an Ml 430 2004 model , V8 engine Auto Manual . once when driving to Gwagwalada alone the road police escorting some politician up there decides we all stop for them , neither did i agree . They use their Hilux to try block me when i shift the gear to 2 Waking up the V8 beast of an Engine You wan try before i return it to 3 then 4 they no see my break light , i give them like 3 kilometer distance . Mercedes For Life yeah .

tedanne:

Hi Trac,
a comendable effort on your part to many MB users;just like Siena is to Audi users.am new on MB.just got a 2002 ML 500 and would want to know what to expect in all ramification.(the good and the bad)
tanx and do keep up the good work

The least trouble-free of all M's are the 2005 models. Many of the gremlins were worked out. It would be unfair to conclude on the new model line-up's for it hasn't ended. I do not know where to start from but the electrical is where the mountain of the problems are and it could be for several reasons (fuel nannies, electromechanical, mostly sensors). In some cases, it may not start. To have the vehicle trouble-free, you will be proactive on all your preventive maintenance.

Transmission - the fluid will have to be drained and refilled often. This isn't just the M's but all MB's (722.6x and higher). I believe it is fitted with the 722.6 transmission. The design originally was meant to be sealed for life with the "sheet 236.3" (if I'm correct) fluid. Later, the lifetime requirement standard dropped from decades to 7 years and from 7 years to the unwritten rule of common sense. The MB transmission fluid is what you should use. If you know why, you would not compromise on this. As of today, the fluid that would be sold to you is of sheet 236.10 and it is backward compatible with other sheets constituents.
- On the other hand, there is an alternative. It is the same fluid and cost $16 cheaper than the branded one which is $20. In other words, $4. It is called Fuch Titan. It is the same fluid by Shell and you should be able to find it. The deference between the two is that one has MB's quality control associated to their design and the other does not but it is the same thing. It is just like OEM/OES and genuine certified part components. This is also for all Mercedes.

I would love to tell people to stick to the genuine parts for their vehicle. The ML is one of them that I will make a serious exception to. It will be unwise to replace brakes, suspension and some powertrain with non-genuine but certain aspects like crankshaft positioning sensors, camshaft positioning sensors and other sensors that fail without warning and in some cases, more than once need not be replaced with the same brand. Get the OEM or OES for that component.

Enjoy your vehicle.

I'm sorry for being late on response (I also did not get an e-mail notification).

A lot of things can initial a warning for ESP failure. The simplest of the culprit could be a burnt tail bulb. The ESP is a complex service to diagnose and I would not recommend you warning but a thorough diagnosis. It isn't uncommon for brake failures to occur without warning when you have an ESP malfunction warning on. The E's, SL and other variants with SBC are known to fail without warning or error codes and you have nothing but the engines safely downshifting to one.


Lambamba, take the vehicle for repairs. A complete inspection and replacement of all wear component would have to be done. It will not profit you to delete the error warning. Inspect all bulbs as well

Hello Trac ,

Thanks for the feedback.
I'm still at a cross road.
I'll copy down all the various errors being displayed and have them posted soon.
You recommend complete diagnosis but where would you suggest ?
The earlier advice i got from a Benz clinic in surulere was dat i should change the wheel speed sensor after using a scanner to check.
Should i go ahead and do that ?
I've hardly used the car or even driven 2km.
I also noted it was crying of faulty brake light indicator which was replaced but its now back again.
Honestly, i'm trying not to panic.
What would you advice ?
eagerly await your response

Okd1:

When your talking of a Cars i don't think any car Beat Mercedes Benz , i drive an Ml 430 2004 model , V8 engine Auto Manual . once when driving to Gwagwalada alone the road police escorting some politician up there decides we all stop for them , neither did i agree . They use their Hilux to try block me when i shift the gear to 2 Waking up the V8 beast of an Engine You wan try before i return it to 3 then 4 they no see my break light , i give them like 3 kilometer distance . Mercedes For Life yeah .

The designs are good and nothing can compare to them for the generation in which it is released.  By design, I mean the application of "acceptable" engineering practices and principles to yield an expected conclusion.  I don't mean fashion or aesthetics.  In some cases, I don't believe that they use conventional principles/theories/laws (I just can't prove that).  The production builds are just far beyond standards due to costs to keep the vehicle within price ranges and to support their research costs.  So you have a good design and a cheap build with questionable tolerances.  This is where the reliability issues come in.  

I am not sure if your downshift was safe or illegal (depending on the gear you were in before the shift).  If you were coasting at the fourth or the fifth and you force-selected 2 for the purpose of picking up more speed, you will compromise your clutch-pack in the transmission case.  It isn't designed for that feat but slowing down not picking up speed.  There aren't too many clutches in the pack to handle such torque for the purpose of picking up speed.

labamba:

I'm sorry for being late on response (I also did not get an e-mail notification).

A lot of things can initial a warning for ESP failure.  The simplest of the culprit could be a burnt tail bulb.  The ESP is a complex service to diagnose and I would not recommend you warning but a thorough diagnosis.  It isn't uncommon for brake failures to occur without warning when you have an ESP malfunction warning on.  The E's, SL and other variants with SBC are known to fail without warning or error codes and you have nothing but the engines safely downshifting to one.


Lambamba, take the vehicle for repairs.  A complete inspection and replacement of all wear component would have to be done.  It will not profit you to delete the error warning.  Inspect all bulbs as well

Hello Trac ,

Thanks for the feedback.
I'm still at a cross road.
I'll copy down all the various errors being displayed and have them posted soon.
You recommend complete diagnosis but where would you suggest ?
The earlier advice i got from a Benz clinic in surulere was dat i should change the wheel speed sensor after using a scanner to check.
Should i go ahead and do that ?
I've hardly used the car or even driven 2km.
I also noted it was crying of faulty brake light indicator which was replaced but its now back again.
Honestly, i'm trying not to panic.
What would you advice ?
eagerly await your response

No!!!!

You are not to change the wheel speed sensor.  You are to reset it. 

You reset it by:
*  Crank the engine and apply no throttle
*  Roll the steering wheel to the extreme left till it comes to a complete lock and the same to the extreme right
*  Centre the wheel
*  Kill the engine. 

Somebody had a similar case. 
https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-520025.288.html

Don't replace any wheel sensor.  You will make a lot of replacements (that's a guarantee for sure).

Anyone that knows about the brakes on an MB will know where to start. I listed a few on the prior post-reply. Everything associated to it must be inspected and replaced if needed. The post is #320 on https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-520025.320.html. The very first on that page. To an MB expert, it should be a moderate job with some brain-storming. the culprit(s) will need to be identified.

Hey Trac,
I need your expertise or any other persons opinion and advice. I came across a guy who had hit bad times. He has a 2008 C- 300 which i have offered to buy off him for 1 million; the catch is that the engine has knocked. Do you have a clue as to how much i'd be looking at to get it fixed or is it a bad deal?

Hi peeps
A friend needs original brain box and fuse for c class 320 2004model
Its needed urgently
Pls ping if you have it
Cheers

Hi peeps
A friend needs original brain box and fuse for c class 320 2004model
Its needed urgently
Pls ping if you have it
Cheers

Stylz69:

Hey Trac,
I need your expertise or any other persons opinion and advice. I came across a guy who had hit bad times. He has a 2008 C- 300 which i have offered to buy off him for 1 million; the catch is that the engine has knocked. Do you have a clue as to how much i'd be looking at to get it fixed or is it a bad deal?

The short answer is "no."

That's me talking, if you met me in person and I wouldn't listen to another word after that.

To answer your question as asked:

You weren't specific about the kind of knock - knock when the engine warms up, knock when motion initiates after a sudden stop or the knock at idle.  Truth is none of these occur in the m272 due to the biased engineering.  The engines were built never to be rebuilt.  You cannot rebuild an MB engine.  It is extremely difficult for the newer ones.  It is difficult and the engine becomes compromised.  It may sound like a joke but those that hod-rod their Benzes and eventually compromise their engines will attest to that. 

I believe you have a balance shaft problem.  This is known.  The Achilles heels a chain sprocket to the balance shafts.  The repairs in not a simple one and it is pricey in $10 - $20,000 range.  When the problem starts, there is a quick-fix.  This quick-fix gives about a year before the entire shaft fails completely.  What is ironic is that the same defective component is replaced with the same part number.  There is a campaign going on.  Many part with their cars after this issue.  Many for sale currently are at the warning point.  What is not encouraging is that this happens at low miles as well as no history of spirited driving.  I won't talk about the quick-fix.  In your case, it is already too late for that.  This is why I have stated in the previous posts never to buy a v6 Mercedes Benz (no matter the price).  The 210 series also  has a similar issue, though worse without warning.  The entire shaft rip through the engine and oil pan. 

Find something else, Stylez.  It's not worth your time.  This is not a problem that will be going away anytime soon.  The 212 also has been fitted with the same part component and some are showing signs of these as well.  Don't buy a v6 Mercedes.  It is pointless and senseless.  Some may argue with me on this but chopped-off v8 offers almost no merit.  Even MB in all their knowledge and subsidiary principles could not engineer a sectioned v8 that worked in a long term.  This is because you cannot change its inherent nature for the laws of physics cannot be repealed.

aminatusaf:

Hi peeps
A friend needs original brain box and fuse for c class 320 2004model
Its needed urgently
Pls ping 260616d8 if you have it
Cheers

Your friend does not need an ECU. A couple of fuses and relays would have to have been blown and shut down before the ECU comes to place. In other words, you will have to deliberately sabotage the ECU by reinstating the aforementioned without dealing with the cause (and that still isn't easy). At this stage, you can't even move the car more than a few miles without the problem coming up again. Look for the root cause. Deferring the actual problem is not helping the situation. Something valuable too will be lost; your time and rest of mind (productivity). Advise your friend accordingly.

Hi friends, my v boot 200E is giving me some problems, the engine performance is low especially when the a.c is on, my mechanic said the compression is low and lattertuned the distributor to high, since then i ve been hearing strange noise wheneveri start the eingine, the noise stops afer the engine runs, how do i stop this,