elviszzz: thanks Cretin,i dont have coolant in it nor water,i will have it flushed then if d problem persists den wld replace with a new one.

icemann:

"i dont have coolant in it nor water,i will have it flushed then if d problem persists"

No coolant or water and you want to flush what?
Is your car air cooled?

icemann:

"i dont have coolant in it nor water,i will have it flushed then if d problem persists"

No coolant or water and you want to flush what?
Is your car air cooled?

cretin: ur radiator isnt cooling properly.....do u hv coolant in it or water?.......pls flush the radiator and fill with coolant 70/30 or buy a new double cell radiator and replace ur existing radiator...it probablly is clogged or is old and has been patched in the past thus reducing the available cooling area

elviszzz: thanks Cretin,i dont have coolant in it nor water,i will have it flushed then if d problem persists den wld replace with a new one.

cretin: @ trac.i meant 70% coolant...30% water.the avg radiator is 4liters n the average nigerian wudnt want to fill his radiator with 4 liters of coolant @400 naira per 0.5l of coolant.when i changed my radiator..i drove it with 100% water for sometime before i flushed it and made it 30/70. 30 being coolant!....just to prevent/reduce rust.

Ikenna351: Trac,

I don't think you understood Cretin. What we have here in the market is coolant, not antifreeze. The label on a bottle TOTAL coolant, that I use, states its pre-mixed (Mixture of water & anti-freeze). And the instruction on the bottle is not to mix it again with water. Now the percentage of the mixture is what I wouldnt know. Those that do 70:30 of water and coolant may not have faith that it was properly mixed. Otherwise, you do not need to mix it with water again, hence, the antifreeze will be so diluted that it wont do it work anymore. That's why i buy from reputable brand: TOTAL. To be sure to some extent that what they claim is the content is what it is.

Ikenna.

elviszzz: There is nothing wrong wit my radiator,my car is working perfectly now,all I did was to permanent d fan and d overheating issue is no more.

cretin:

THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN THRASHED A BILLION TIMES!!!....permanenting ur fan or whatever u call it is totally wrong...u will wreck ur engine...i give u 2 or 3 yrs max....u will be out sourcing for a new engine to buy

toba: is it then advisable for cars that their termostat had been removed to be restored for the cars to have their fans operate at a closed loop?

cretin: about 70% of all cases of overheating are caused by bad thermostat/radiator.......the other cause is damaged relay.the avg mechanic is too lazy/incompetent to trouble shoot...so he connects the fan permanently to the battery.......a fan relay costs less than N800 naira depending on the car......if the relay is bad..the fan stops working.

Ikenna351: Trac,

I don't think you understood Cretin. What we have here in the market is coolant, not antifreeze. The label on a bottle TOTAL coolant, that I use, states its pre-mixed (Mixture of water & anti-freeze). And the instruction on the bottle is not to mix it again with water. Now the percentage of the mixture is what I wouldnt know. Those that do 70:30 of water and coolant may not have faith that it was properly mixed. Otherwise, you do not need to mix it with water again, hence, the antifreeze will be so diluted that it wont do it work anymore. That's why i buy from reputable brand: TOTAL. To be sure to some extent that what they claim is the content is what it is.



To Op and everyone,

mr oga,inasmuch as i want to feel ur explanation makes book sense,in reality it doznt rily add up.
i ve used the acura rl 2005 model.3.5 v6 for almost 4yrs and the baby is still running like brand new.have not have overheating once.the radiator is all water.that includes my crv too.thats even older.
i ve come to learn in cars that xperience is truly the master.
I dont spend time anymore trying to convince Nigerians need to use coolant and leave the cooling systems as factory as they come. Its a mind set problem with Nigerians. They already strongly believed that removing cooling system thermostat, using water only in the cooling system and connecting the radiator electric fans to spin constantly are the best for vehicles in Nigeria, because of our weather, they would claim. How ignorant people can be. Sometimes, Nigerians think that its only here that weather temp can be as high as 35 - 40 degree centigrade. I was discussing with a friend in Canada the other day and he told me that sometimes they do have 45 degree C. Yet all their vehicles run with T-stat, coolant and factory fan control via CTS or radiator sensor. I really wonder who must have sold Nigerians that Idea, that our vehicle cooling systems can run as factory in Nigeria. Of course, we prefer to depend on what those clowns who do not understand what is EFI & how ECU works. They fail to understand that engines with EFIs depend or work with the engine cooling system, if the cooling system is not even part of the EFI, considering its design and functions.



For op,

Are you really aware of what you have done to your car by what you did to it trying to fix the overheating issue. Simply put, you have signed death warrant for that engine. Making the fan to run constantly would always make your engine to run cold because it will never allow the fluid in the cooling system to warm to normal operating engine temperature. First, the fan's motor will soon die, because it wasnt design to run spin constantly. Second, the car fuel economy will suffer, because the fluid will always be cold, below normal operating temp, and the CTS will always signal to the ECU that your engine is cold, hence, the ECU will constantly be commanding the injectors to spray in excess fuel into the combustion chambers. Third, the engine would be having improper lubrication. Because the oil will always be thick, since the engine is always cold, hence, the engine oil wont be light enough to lubricate the cylinder heads, crankshaft jounals and other engine parts that needs constant lubrication while engine is running. Your engine will be having a severe friction, which will soon lead to blue smoke from the exhaust, severe wear of crankshaft jounals, bearings and eventually, the death of the engine. Mark my words. Its on its way.

For those that use only water in their cooling system, you are not off the hook. Water takes ages to warm up. If you doubt me, disconnect that your fan that run constantly in the morning before you start your car for the first time, start the car, allow it to idle. You will see that it will take it upto 20 mins or more for the temp guage to rise to the middle of the guage. That means that your vehicle will always be running rich (consuming excess fuel) for a long time, every first 30 mins in the morning, and will also be having friction issues more than it should. Yes, every first start in the morning, there must be a friction. But how long it continues is determined by what you use as fluid for your cooling system. For first start in the morning for an engine that runs with coolant, it will take the temp only between 2 to 5 mins to rise to 70 to 90 degree C (normal optimal temp). Meaning that your engine will only consume excess fuel withing seconds of starting the car and will continuously be decreasing as the temp rises within the first 5 mins of starting the car, likewise with the lubrication of the engine. The higher the temp, the lighter the engine oil for proper engine lubrication. That coolant the manufacturers recommend was not to waste yout money. They aren't fools.

Op, if you had googled your question, you would have not had need to start this thread. A lot of thread have treated a similar problems of yours on this forum. You would have gotten the solution to your overheating issues from those threads. Always know that people have works and maynot always have time to be frequenting Nairaland. Solutions are out there somewhere. You just have to be patient enough to find it. You could still still start a thread, but don't rush into trying to work with with the little info you have gathered until have checked every other treated similar issues. If I were you, I would revert back to factory and simple diagnose and fix the overheating issue. What you did wasnt a fix, but you ended up creating more nightmares for yourself that awaits you.

Ikenna.

Trac:


You are going to have to explain this to me because I have no clue to your presented point-of-view; that is: referring to the second and first-half of the third sentence.

To save me from a post in response, I will state what I know. I actually went to my storage and looked up the approved coolant for my cars and it was italicized "Antifreeze Coolant." I also found images online that I have attached to this post. I have never heard a dissociation between coolant and antifreeze. What I pointed out is that some think dumping more coolant, they'll get their system running cooler because of the word "coolant."

Premix and full formulate are two different states (as you stated). The one mixed with water is more expensive and you have 50% antifreeze in it for the same size as the 100% variant. Some are logically questionable for they state that you can add it to any coolant. Now, if you are stating that antifreeze has been premixed, then you are wrong.

The first image is approved by the listed manufacturers. In other words, Valvoline had submitted their formulae to the manufacturers and the manufacturers tested it against their standards and it met or exceeded the standards. This specification of antifreeze is also bullet-proof and it is not as expensive as Mercedes or the Audi coolant. If I am not wrong, the coolant for MB is Zerex G05 but the bottle is rebranded with a few alteration to the sheet specification (fluid formulate standard). There is only one sheet specification from the part catalogue (and that is sheet specification 325.0) for both tropical and non-tropical.

The second image is the water mixture of the first at half-and-half.

The third is recommended for the list of manufactured brands listed. It isn't approved but recommended.

One of the sad issues that I have realised on NL is that people think they are smarter than the heat-transfer engineers that set-up the vehicle's cooling design. They come up with their own modifications and veer wide from intended specifications. It is better for your cooling system to work overtime than to be of questionable integrity and mess the entire rings, cylinder walls and other areas of dependency.

Trac:


You are going to have to explain this to me because I have no clue to your presented point-of-view; that is: referring to the second and first-half of the third sentence.

To save me from a post in response, I will state what I know. I actually went to my storage and looked up the approved coolant for my cars and it was italicized "Antifreeze Coolant." I also found images online that I have attached to this post. I have never heard a dissociation between coolant and antifreeze. What I pointed out is that some think dumping more coolant, they'll get their system running cooler because of the word "coolant."

Premix and full formulate are two different states (as you stated). The one mixed with water is more expensive and you have 50% antifreeze in it for the same size as the 100% variant. Some are logically questionable for they state that you can add it to any coolant. Now, if you are stating that antifreeze has been premixed, then you are wrong.

The first image is approved by the listed manufacturers. In other words, Valvoline had submitted their formulae to the manufacturers and the manufacturers tested it against their standards and it met or exceeded the standards. This specification of antifreeze is also bullet-proof and it is not as expensive as Mercedes or the Audi coolant. If I am not wrong, the coolant for MB is Zerex G05 but the bottle is rebranded with a few alteration to the sheet specification (fluid formulate standard). There is only one sheet specification from the part catalogue (and that is sheet specification 325.0) for both tropical and non-tropical.

The second image is the water mixture of the first at half-and-half.

The third is recommended for the list of manufactured brands listed. It isn't approved but recommended.

One of the sad issues that I have realised on NL is that people think they are smarter than the heat-transfer engineers that set-up the vehicle's cooling design. They come up with their own modifications and veer wide from intended specifications. It is better for your cooling system to work overtime than to be of questionable integrity and mess the entire rings, cylinder walls and other areas of dependency.

cretin:


THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN THRASHED A BILLION TIMES!!!....permanenting ur fan or whatever u call it is totally wrong...u will wreck ur engine...i give u 2 or 3 yrs max....u will be out sourcing for a new engine to buy