Modified

kkulaja:


Its from the bolded that makes me give my friend's idea a 2nd thought as I was almost buying another transmission before I saw this thread.2ndly I don't like my friend's maintenance scheme as he prefers to manage rather than replace.pls @ kashif advice or refer me to a competent specialist.thanks

What year is you car? If you strongly feel it is the valvebody (which I would be pleasantly surprised, should that be the case), I can check it for you. I could not find a competent hand, the reason I am doing what am doing. Scan the car again; this time, paying attention to the code(s).

For starters, let me know the age of your car. In order not to derail this thread, post here: https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/automatic-gearbox-problems/12

Kashif:


What year is you car? If you strongly feel it is the valvebody (which I would be pleasantly surprised, should that be the case), I can check it for you. I could not find a competent hand, the reason I am doing what am doing. Scan the car again; this time, paying attention to the code(s).

For starters, let me know the age of your car. In order not to derail this thread, post here: https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/automatic-gearbox-problems/12

Its a 2000 E320,thanks its just what I wish to do mine,sorry to derail,will keep u posted on the code.

Parts have arrived. Below is the overhaul kit. If a transmission's problem is only leakages at the seals, this should fix it. Contains all seals and gasket. You can also see the filter. There are so many seals! There are also the check balls.

And here are the big parts - clutch friction plates and all bonded pistons! All fluid delivered to the clutches for application will work without escaping.

Assembly lube and flexible silicone. All the parts going in must be lubed

Valve body kit. You can see the springs and valve port seals. They come with Teflon rings, unlike the OEM. The primary and secondary pressure regulators are getting new springs, just like the accumulators. The valve body separator plates will need to be drilled at specific points for better shift quality. The two drill bits needed are included in the kit. All 11 check balls need to be replaced.

Valve body gaskets. I was worried about them

Rebuild has started, beginning with the valve body. I somehow underestimated the work that needs to go into this to do it properly. I spent about three hours on the upper valve body alone, though yes, it has the most parts!

First, had to remove all valves and clean the bores and valves again, since its been a while I did that initially. This time around, I submerged the VB in kerosene for some time. The valves equally got the same treatment. The result was impressive. See the valves and members below.

All plugs need to be replaced, to avoid leakages at the valve ends. Notice the replacement has seals. Each is lubed and installed (you need to have tough thumbs to do this) there are three different sizes.

New springs are installed. The secondary regulator valve gets a new spring. The orange spring replaces the old one.

The clutch apply controller gets a replacement spring - the new white.

Here is a little tricky one. The accumulators determine shift feel - too soft or too hard. You can play around this and see what best suits you. I like firm shifts so, will modify the springs as I please. Here, for the 1-2 accumulator, the one in the middle is replacing the one on the right. Both are inner springs, but the longer, tougher spring delivers a firmer shift. As a rule, the tougher the accumulator spring, the firmer the shift and vise versa.

The upper valve body cover is installed with new gasket and all bolts torqued to 11nm.

With all accumulator springs installed, the job on this part of the valve body is complete. Got to run!

I have waited long to see this work done, i got my eyes here.

Compliment of the Season,

Please I own a Toyota Camry 2006 never knew it was 13 that was converted to 10 pin and I bought the car of a friend after my mechanic assured me that the transmission selection was okay that all I need was to service the car and change the oil for the gear box and engine oil.


But before then I noticed that the car can't climb or better doesn't now have force to move but when it does it moves smoothly and makes a hard noise you place it on Drive and the noise is even worst when you place it on reverse. my biggest challenge is noise, just want the car to transmission to work normal and and for 3 weeks my car has been with the so called best hand we have here to information about the progress of his work all I keep hearing is am working on it. Please Doc. What's your professional advise on the steps to take secondly if is possible can you recommend any one within Bayelsa that can fix this issue for me please??

Will be expecting your timely response.

The job on the valve body has been completed.

I had to adjust the primary pressure regulator valve. It has five settings, which can be adapted for various uses. A setting for a sedan is different from SUV, considering engine capacity as well. The pic below illustrates that.

The separator plate had eight of its holes enlarged a little. Many of the checkball baths got improved supply. Sorry there is no picture. Getting the very tiny drill bit supplied to fit into a drilling machine was a challenge. Some of the holes were for improved lubrication. Below are the new check balls in their baths. There are 11 of them.

In the end, here is the rebuilt valve body! Next is testing. The idea is to test it in my working transmission. That way, any problem isolation would be easy. Meanwhile, my focus now falls on the box itself. That should be pretty straightforward. There will be limited pictures and details though.

My mechanic was not around so I start working the box. I must say it has been very challenging so far. There are lots of pieces, so its very easy to get confused. The best approach is to work on one assembly at a time. When this is not possible - struggling with some parts, waiting for frictions' soak period, all assemblies should be grouped together. I started with the bell housing. Transmission guys don't touch this side.

This is the differential. Am not gonna touch it, apart from cleaning - a typical hard part

I was surprised at the sludge I met in the under drive chamber. I am not sure where this came from, but the interesting part is that it is emulsified! Every part of that holding assembly had to come out for cleaning. A million drain and refills would not have done anything here. This part is only lubed so, no pressure to get it out.

The clutch piston balancer has been affected. This was in the rebuild kit anyway

My major challenge since yesterday has been clutch piston return spring compressor. A process that should take 10 minutes takes hour or more! . I would pick, twist, pull etc! I thought I had that covered! Mistakenly installed a brake plate the wrong way, and it took me almost an hour to bring it out

In order to use the puller gifted to me by Gazzuzz, I had to improvise. I cut off 2 inches from a 4 inch PVC pipe, cut a piece of wood and placed it across the pipe as seen below. That setup enabled me get out the forward clutch piston. Installation of the news set was fairly easy too. One thing to add is that I had to discard the wood when it started shedding particles. Had to replace it with metal.

After that, I went on to remove the direct clutch, and was stopped! Because it has a shaft, my puller could not do much. After a lot of struggle, I was able to remove the balancer and piston, almost disfiguring the snap ring! Giving a monkey a cuip of water is not a big deal, it is collecting the cup! For hours, I could not install the new parts. It took time to get the snap ring back close to shape so, I could not risk stressing it again. Dashed to tools shop hoping to find something, anything but nothing! Went to a metal works man that I know can fabricate a toll to spec, and gave him a sketch. Will pick it up tomorrow. See the guy that defied my creativity

Bro, keep it up. We are watching in 4D.

Still following and learning, well done bro

kingreign:
Bro, keep it up. We are watching in 4D.

uwemjack:
Still following and learning, well done bro

Thanks.

The tool is here! Lost a day because the metal fabricator made a mistake, and had to make corrections. The shoes' curvature is a little too tight, but that will do. It is multipurpose. When in use, the lower nuts are removed. The shoes have ample travel to cover lots of needs.

Removal of clutch pistons is now a breeze! I removed an reinstalled this stubborn one a couple of times in fifteen minutes!

Now I face a different challenge. After changing the piston and frictions for this clutch, I have discovered the original pressure plate is a tight fit. I need a #3, instead of the #4 currently installed. If left as is, the frictions are sure to burn. They are already partially engaged; must find a way around it! On my next rebuild, I will order multiple pressure plates. I am aware of this possibility, but I did not know what I would need - smaller or bigger size. They are the only means of adjusting clutch pack clearance.

The rebuild is complete. Testing is next

Very informative,
Another task that I know not to even think of trying