I removed my disulphator long ago.... Don't think they work especially these low price ones probably the battery life saver do. Balancer is best and you would have gone with Fangusun flexmax were u can equalize manually anytime u like

earthrealm:


i just feel it would be too much pulses and sHI.t going on, mek e no come fry my CC ..do you have a CC hooked up to ur setup?.
i would hv felt more confident if it was just inverter alone, cos i believe it would be able to handle the pulses/transient voltages from the 2 devices

DMerciful:
I removed my disulphator long ago.... Don't think they work especially these low price ones probably the battery life saver do. Balancer is best and you would have gone with Fangusun flexmax were u can equalize manually anytime u like

yeah, i went for a cheaper cc then, the jury is still out on the desulphator, i think there are fakes and those that work, my chinco car batt is 3yrs 3months now, v6 4ltr engine with constant ac use.
installed the desulphator abt the 2yr mark when i noticed reduced performance, it has continued serving me till date. most chinco car batteries crap out in 2yrs or less

About same price with EPSOLAR. AC does not drain battery. Who knows the longevity might just be the quality of the battery. Good equalising is all a flooded battery needs

earthrealm:


yeah, i went for a cheaper cc then, the jury is still out on the desulphator, i think there are fakes and those that work, my chinco car batt is 3yrs 3months now, v6 4ltr engine with constant ac use.
installed the desulphator abt the 2yr mark when i noticed reduced performance, it has continued serving me till date. most chinco car batteries crap out in 2yrs or less

earthrealm:


i just feel it would be too much pulses and sHI.t going on, mek e no come fry my CC ..do you have a CC hooked up to ur setup?.
i would hv felt more confident if it was just inverter alone, cos i believe it would be able to handle the pulses/transient voltages from the 2 devices

Yes, I had the Midnite Classic 150 hooked up all the time.

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DMerciful:
About same price with EPSOLAR. AC does not drain battery. Who knows the longevity might just be the quality of the battery. Good equalising is all a flooded battery needs

AC DOES DRAIN CAR BAttery,[for cars with dual cooling fans, bboth fans come on with ac = bigger electrical load] even headlights too...the alternator works harder when these are on. to keep up with the sucked out juice.
since one cant equalize a car battery insitu, above whatever the alternator can do, a good desulphator should prevent the plates from clogging up.

Oga, put on your car and remove the battery, all these loads will still be on. infact the alternator will do less work since it will not carry the load of charging the battery. Once the car is running, the alternator takes over.

earthrealm:


AC DOES DRAIN CAR BAttery,[for cars with dual cooling fans, bboth fans come on with ac = bigger electrical load] even headlights too...the alternator works harder when these are on. to keep up with the sucked out juice.
since one cant equalize a car battery insitu, above whatever the alternator can do, a good desulphator should prevent the plates from clogging up.

This is mostly correct - the battery in a car exists to start up, preserve settings state in memory, run idle loads and take care of power transients amongst other functions - a suitably sized alternator will run all DC loads in a car once they are already on but if you had a bad or shorted battery in the car, you may find the car will go off when you switch on headlamps or AC because there is little or no power stored in the battery to handle the power surge and the alternator cannot cope with the combined load of trying to charge a broken battery and also running other heavy loads simultaneously.

Most people whose car batteries last long credit it to a desulfator but really the truth is that they have fairly long commutes/drive long distances on a regular basis thus allowing the alternator to charge the batteries properly.

After all my experimentation with BLS and PowerPulse desulfators I have concluded that they can help battery longevity if installed from the start but they are no substitute for proper charging, keeping batteries in balance and not draining them below 50%. To enjoy any real benefits from a desulfator and by jove these benefits are negligible you would need to install at the level of the smallest battery unit e.g 4 pieces of 12v battery desulfators in a 12v in series 48v battery bank vs using one 48v desulfator unit for the entire bank.

A balancer and desulfator can be safely used together because they work on different basis entirely - desulfators send high voltage jolts or radio pulses or other electromagnetic signals into a battery to break off lead sulphate crystals on the negative plate whereas battery balancers move charge amps around the battery bank from stonger to weaker battery or bleed/drain some power off the stronger battery till equilibrium is reached - to this end your sensitive electronics are likelier to suffer damage from a desulfator's pulses.

Fortunately most charge controllers and inverters can withstand the high voltage jolts or pulses of a desulfator except for the MustPower inverters which seem not to be able to handle it and soon fail mains charging after a desulfator is introduced.

DMerciful:
Oga, put on your car and remove the battery, all these loads will still be on. infact the alternator will do less work since it will not carry the load of charging the battery. Once the car is running, the alternator takes over.

earthrealm:


AC DOES DRAIN CAR BAttery,[for cars with dual cooling fans, bboth fans come on with ac = bigger electrical load] even headlights too...the alternator works harder when these are on. to keep up with the sucked out juice.
since one cant equalize a car battery insitu, above whatever the alternator can do, a good desulphator should prevent the plates from clogging up.

earthrealm:


yeah, i went for a cheaper cc then, the jury is still out on the desulphator, i think there are fakes and those that work, my chinco car batt is 3yrs 3months now, v6 4ltr engine with constant ac use.
installed the desulphator abt the 2yr mark when i noticed reduced performance, it has continued serving me till date. most chinco car batteries crap out in 2yrs or less

DMerciful:
Oga, put on your car and remove the battery, all these loads will still be on. infact the alternator will do less work since it will not carry the load of charging the battery. Once the car is running, the alternator takes over.

LOLZ, that doesnt prove anything. why dont you start your car, remove your battery and run the ac for 10mins @high fan speed. observe it.
then compare it to when the battery was connected...and report back to us.
the electrical loads on a car are designed to run off the car battery, thats why your batt will drain if perchance the batt head terminals are loose/pull off while driving

imagine this scenario...a solar system with loads pulling say 500w off the bank..and same being replaced by the solar panels. and another one with say 50w load being taken from battery and 50w being replaced by the solar panels concurrently. which of the batt bank do you think is doing more work/will age faster.

i agree that ac usage on car battery is minimal, but denying that such impact exists is an untruth.
you may google further for clarification. lots of varying opinions on the web though..

SOMEONE MENTIONED A SMART BATTERY CHARGER THEY BOUGHT ON ALI EXPRESS, SOUER or so.searched but cant see it, would appreciate the link if you can repost the link

Here you go bros

It's spelled as SUOER

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32677344150.html?trace=storeDetail2msiteDetail&spm=2114.12010612.0.0.739c36f1uwEvGY

You can also get it here in Oshodi or Alaba around 17k

earthrealm:
SOMEONE MENTIONED A SMART BATTERY CHARGER THEY BOUGHT ON ALI EXPRESS, SOUER or so.searched but cant see it, would appreciate the link if you can repost the link

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Here you go bros

It's spelled as SUOER

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32677344150.html?trace=storeDetail2msiteDetail&spm=2114.12010612.0.0.739c36f1uwEvGY

You can also get it here in Oshodi or Alaba around 17k

OK missed the spelling!. hefty$41 shipping to niaja, bringing it to $82 total, na waoh..not in lagos..its cheaper buying from alaba.
maybe i will buy this instead, cheaper, and 12v/24v option, came across it while searching for the suoer. only 24usd and free shipping.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-Car-Battery-Charger-AJ-618-Charger-Intelligent-Pulse-Repair-Lead-Acid-Battery-Charger-Orange/32795585218.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.335.6mw7LI

earthrealm:
SOMEONE MENTIONED A SMART BATTERY CHARGER THEY BOUGHT ON ALI EXPRESS, SOUER or so.searched but cant see it, would appreciate the link if you can repost the link

It depends on voltage you need .. Suoer 12v 30/40/50a don't really go above 25-29a max cc.. In Lagos here , Emerson , Vapel and other DC 50-60a converter units sells mostly"does good float charge" . You can contact me if you are interested in 24v 60a/48v 40a.

NOTE: it dosnt do a complete "absorb charge" . its mostly sells here in Lagos as an additional float charge support especially for 24v 600-1000a battery bank" .. The constant current charge regulation is one of the most tasking stages in charge cycle.. Leave your inverter or solar system to do the complete charge cycle .. I have seen it used in countable systems and threads like link below

https://www.nairaland.com/1389975/worlds-smallest-power-inverter/47

In scenarios where you really an advanced- programmable 3-4 stage intelligent charger with reasonable charge current , you must budget a reasonable amount for makes like cotek chargers - cotek cx2425 about $302, Victron chargers etc


Smartcell global services
081-350-31951

earthrealm:


LOLZ, that doesnt prove anything. why dont you start your car, remove your battery and run the ac for 10mins @high fan speed. observe it.
then compare it to when the battery was connected...and report back to us.
the electrical loads on a car are designed to run off the car battery, thats why your batt will drain if perchance the batt head terminals are loose/pull off while driving

imagine this scenario...a solar system with loads pulling say 500w off the bank..and same being replaced by the solar panels. and another one with say 50w load being taken from battery and 50w being replaced by the solar panels concurrently. which of the batt bank do you think is doing more work/will age faster.

i agree that ac usage on car battery is minimal, but denying that such impact exists is an untruth.
you may google further for clarification. lots of varying opinions on the web though..

1. your battery will not drain if perchance one of the terminals come loose/off. How possible is this? Once a terminal comes off, the circuit is broken, no amps are drawn; so how will a battery thus drain?

2. As long as your alternator is in good shape; if you start your car and take off your battery; car will continue to run fine. But car might turn off when you turn on a bigger load like the A/C or heater. Why Because compressors normally have surge current; the alternator might already be handling too much load. So when the compressor comes on, it would just be way above normal for the alternator to handle; so it turns off.
If a battery were connected, the battery would provide some of the current required if the alternator has reached max.

3. So what is the job of a battery in car? Like Niyi said, to save settings in memory; to provide power for startup; and to provide additional current intermittently when required. Once a car is up and running, the alternator takes over. That's why you see most people turning on their cars, removing their batteries to "jump start" another car.

4. I have driven from Surulere to Maryland on just my alternator alone. I felt a little jolt/drag at Surulere when the battery terminal came off; but didn't pay attention. That was the alternator being loaded up. Until I got to Maryland, and wanted to climb uphill. Somehow, the battery terminal got bridged and there was a short-circuit. Car immediately came to a halt. I saw the dashboard lights flicker b4 it went off. I was already scared for my ECU and worried. Not until I popped the hood open and saw the terminal cables bridged each other. The negative was stil connected but the positive came off and was on the car's chassis. You gotta love anti-shortcircuit protection in these cars;
else, a fire would have started. And yes, i drove on full load, daylight running lamps and air conditioning listening to 2 Chainz all the way.

makavele:


1. your battery will not drain if perchance one of the terminals come loose/off. How possible is this? Once a terminal comes off, the circuit is broken, no amps are drawn; so how will a battery thus drain?

2. As long as your alternator is in good shape; if you start your car and take off your battery; car will continue to run fine. But car might turn off when you turn on a bigger load like the A/C or heater. Why Because compressors normally have surge current; the alternator might already be handling too much load. So when the compressor comes on, it would just be way above normal for the alternator to handle; so it turns off.
If a battery were connected, the battery would provide some of the current required if the alternator has reached max.

3. So what is the job of a battery in car? Like Niyi said, to save settings in memory; to provide power for startup; and to provide additional current intermittently when required. Once a car is up and running, the alternator takes over. That's why you see most people turning on their cars, removing their batteries to "jump start" another car.

4. I have driven from Surulere to Maryland on just my alternator alone. I felt a little jolt/drag at Surulere when the battery terminal came off; but didn't pay attention. That was the alternator being loaded up. Until I got to Maryland, and wanted to climb uphill. Somehow, the battery terminal got bridged and there was a short-circuit. Car immediately came to a halt. I saw the dashboard lights flicker b4 it went off. I was already scared for my ECU and worried. Not until I popped the hood open and saw the terminal cables bridged each other. The negative was stil connected but the positive came off and was on the car's chassis. You gotta love anti-shortcircuit protection in these cars;
else, a fire would have started. And yes, i drove on full load, daylight running lamps and air conditioning listening to 2 Chainz all the way.

Hmmn this man is at it again ... Your car must be very rugged !

@MAKAVELE, good insight.
i guess technology has really moved on, it seems the batt drain occurs in some cars where 2 cables terminate on the batt terminasl,- the alternator cable and the load cable, so the alternator cable that was loose/slipped out, it happened many years ago, old car, old tech.

i have also seen cases where corrosion on the batt terminal prevents/reduces charging by the alternator, and the battery drains even though its still connected

you were very fortunate, what u did might have burnt your alternator, oe even the current surges fried your ecm

RE: the bolded, OP needs to consider whether he needs a 3 or 4 stage battery charger e.g Suoer or any of the many other solid brand names available or a DC Converter/Power Supply Unit e.g Emerson and Huawei.

Battery chargers and DC PSUs are very different animals entirely and while a proper battery charger is designed to take your battery through the bulk then absorb then float phase, a DC Converter/PSU is mostly designed for 'float service' in Telecomms applications although Naija seems to have repurposed them as battery chargers - at a 13.6volts per 12v battery voltage cap they are incapable of 'properly charging' a battery - at best one may view them as bulk stage chargers to help push more amps into your battery thus shortening the time required to get to absorb voltage while a proper 3 or 4 stage charger/inverter/charge controller then takes takes the battery to/through absorb then float charge.

I have found that if you own a proper device with 3 or 4 stage charge capability, it will quickly get to a voltage point that essentially overrides the DC Converter/PSU so whoever wants to use this thing as 'assistant charger' should consider and measure carefully. There may be no point paying for a device that will push 40amps extra into your battery for less than 1 hour before it cuts off because the other charging source has already taken the batteries above the PSUs operating voltage.

To summarise;
To keep your typical deep cycle batteries happy you need minimum a 3 stage battery charge source that will go through bulk stage then transit to absorb voltage between 14.0 to 15.8 (depending on battery chemistry) and based on 'time spent in absorb' or 'end/tail charge amps' measurement move from absorb to float phase.

Most batteries that come to Naija specify different absorb voltage ranges for 'standby use' (think very short duration and light loads) or 'cycle use' (think normal deep cycle applications). Except your usage is strictly very light duty or standby use you will quickly kill any battery bank being charged solely off a DC Converter/PSU except you have another charging source to properly finish off the charging or the DC PSU has 3 stage battery charge capabiltiy.

kiekie1:


It depends on voltage you need .. Suoer 12v 30/40/50a don't really go above 25-29a max cc.. In Lagos here , Emerson , Vapel and other DC 50-60a converter units sells mostly"does good float charge" . You can contact me if you are interested in 24v 60a/48v 40a. Cheer's

Smartcell global services
081-350-31951

earthrealm:
@MAKAVELE, good insight.
i guess technology has really moved on, it seems the batt drain occurs in some cars where 2 cables terminate on the batt terminasl,- the alternator cable and the load cable, so the alternator cable that was loose/slipped out, it happened many years ago, old car, old tech.

i have also seen cases where corrosion on the batt terminal prevents/reduces charging by the alternator, and the battery drains even though its still connected

you were very fortunate, what u did might have burnt your alternator, oe even the current surges fried your ecm

That was my actual fear

NiyiOmoIyunade:
RE: the bolded, OP needs to consider whether he needs a 3 or 4 stage battery charger e.g Suoer or any of the many other solid brand names available or a DC Converter/Power Supply Unit e.g Emerson and Huawei.

Battery chargers and DC PSUs are very different animals entirely and while a proper battery charger is designed to take your battery through the bulk then absorb then float phase, a DC Converter/PSU is mostly designed for 'float service' in Telecomms applications although Naija seems to have repurposed them as battery chargers - at a 13.6volts per 12v battery voltage cap they are incapable of 'properly charging' a battery - at best one may view them as bulk stage chargers to help push more amps into your battery thus shortening the time required to get to absorb voltage while a proper 3 or 4 stage charger/inverter/charge controller then takes takes the battery to/through absorb then float charge.

I have found that if you own a proper device with 3 or 4 stage charge capability, it will quickly get to a voltage point that essentially overrides the DC Converter/PSU so whoever wants to use this thing as 'assistant charger' should consider and measure carefully. There may be no point paying for a device that will push 40amps extra into your battery for less than 1 hour before it cuts off because the other charging source has already taken the batteries above the PSUs operating voltage.

To summarise;
To keep your typical deep cycle batteries happy you need minimum a 3 stage battery charge source that will go through bulk stage then transit to absorb voltage between 14.0 to 15.8 (depending on battery chemistry) and based on 'time spent in absorb' or 'end/tail charge amps' measurement move from absorb to float phase.

Most batteries that come to Naija specify different absorb voltage ranges for 'standby use' (think very short duration and light loads) or 'cycle use' (think normal deep cycle applications). Except your usage is strictly very light duty or standby use you will quickly kill any battery bank being charged solely off a DC Converter/PSU except you have another charging source to properly finish off the charging or the DC PSU has 3 stage battery charge capabiltiy.

Yes I get your point my man . I was a bit more detailed in my edit . I tagged it "float charger " .. Bulk current boost is never an easy job for most chargers as the MOSFETs tend to heat up or blow especially for 24v 600-800a bank etc.. People using it in their system all have their reasons and I have seen most attest that it never overcharges neither does it undercharge , I only know it dosnt do absorb charge "above 14v" unless you decide to toggle between variables . I won't also advice a client using flooded battery spec for same. The most irritating reason to me , would have been recommending a charger that will over charge or swell your batteries .. Its best than manual rectifier chargers like absaar, einhell, Bosch etc . I won't really second reasons of undercharging because it does float charge like most car alternators operates (13.5-14v) , anyway I have seen people use this on simple-modest installations and batteries stay above 2 years !!

When you see most of us type here, it is basically out of experience as my man "Makavele" says practicals is better than theory .. I attached same to my 24v 600a-800a battery bank and its been doing great for years.. My 7.5kva Gen can't really power my yellow cyber power 3.5kva 24v especially on rainy days when my solar yield is very low and my batteries are below 50% discharge.. I first got a suoer 24v 20a even when I know the amperage is too low but I couldn't get a higher amp rating in the open market and it blew up in less than a week.. I had to install this Emerson with inbuilt fan, it works great and quickly retracts pumping more current when it senses a higher charging source / voltage or when battery don't need extra current ! I don't think I can afford to order a rugged charger above 100k , yet not knowing if it has any repair parts in Nigeria . Cheer's

Oga KieKie - the reason your batteries are still going strong despite using a DC PSU as a charge source is because you have a second charge source aka Solar Panels & CC that is able to take your batteries through Absorb to Float on a regular basis.

This is buttressed by your previously posted solar panel and charge controller pics and some of your statements below.

A DC PSU that cannot reach Absorb voltage is most definitely undercharging the battery bank except there is another charge source available to take the batteries through their Absorb charge stage and then transit to Float.

Simply, a lead acid battery will not take up and store its full rated AH capacity if it does not reach Absorb voltage and such a battery will progressively lose capacity. The reason is because as batteries take up charge the internal resistance increases and you need higher voltages (the Absorb setpoint) to keep charging amps flowing into the battery until the battery reaches full charge

I agree with you though that the Emerson and Huawei DC PSUs never overcharge a battery and this is one of the hallmarks of their excellent design - again overcharging was never suggested or even contemplated in this our discussion but I merely labored to clarify the difference between the operation of a 3 stage battery charger and a DC PSU so that people are well informed.

kiekie1:


Yes I get your point my man . I was a bit more detailed in my edit . I tagged it "float charger " .. Bulk current boost is never an easy job for most chargers as the MOSFETs tend to heat up or blow especially for 24v 600-800a bank etc.. People using it in their system all have their reasons and I have seen most attest that it never overcharges neither does it undercharge , I only know it dosnt do absorb charge "above 14v" unless you decide to toggle between variables . I won't also advice a client using flooded battery spec for same. The most irritating reason to me , would have been recommending a charger that will over charge or swell your batteries .. Its best than manual rectifier chargers like absaar, einhell, Bosch etc . I won't really second reasons of undercharging because it does float charge like most car alternators operates (13.5-14v) , anyway I have seen people use this on simple-modest installations and batteries stay above 2 years !!

When you see most of us type here, it is basically out of experience as my man "Makavele" says practicals is better than theory .. I attached same to my 24v 600a-800a battery bank and its been doing great for years.. My 7.5kva Gen can't really power my yellow cyber power 3.5kva 24v especially on rainy days when my solar yield is very low and my batteries are below 50% discharge.. I first got a suoer 24v 20a even when I know the amperage is too low but I couldn't get a higher amp rating in the open market and it blew up in less than a week.. I had to install this Emerson with inbuilt fan, it works great and quickly retracts pumping more current when it senses a higher charging source / voltage or when battery don't need extra current ! I don't think I can afford to order a rugged charger above 100k , yet not knowing if it has any repair parts in Nigeria . Cheer's

I think I am finding out the hard way that FLAMES solar panels have inflated specs. Even when I was using a PWM controller, I noticed my yield was consistently about half what it should be. I should have known - the Voc never ever reached 44V as advertised.

What i've tried so far:
* Moved from PWM to a Fangpusun 100/50 MPPT charge controller
* Increase my battery bank from 24V 200Ah to 24V 400Ah
* Changed all my cable connectors to MC4 (money!)
* Tilted panels to 86^O based on clinometer recommendations
* Changed from 1 x 4 array to 2 x 2 array
* Moved all panels completely out of next-building shade (the last one was being shaded slightly)
* Added 2 more panels and changed panel output voltage to 72V
* Changed batteries to a 48V system and 145/60 charge controller
* Clean panels with sponge and water twice a week
* Drop my DOD to 55% and switch on power-hungry devices between 10am and 4pm.

From what I observed and the statistics I generated, and it's pretty much the same. So the nominal 300W panel is really performing like a quality Canadian Solar 200W panel. I guess I got what I paid for - each one was N50k. I'll just derate it on my calculations so that I can manage my expectations.

This charger will charge ur battery to death...not regulated thats y its cheap

earthrealm:


OK missed the spelling!. hefty$41 shipping to niaja, bringing it to $82 total, na waoh..not in lagos..its cheaper buying from alaba.
maybe i will buy this instead, cheaper, and 12v/24v option, came across it while searching for the suoer. only 24usd and free shipping.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-Car-Battery-Charger-AJ-618-Charger-Intelligent-Pulse-Repair-Lead-Acid-Battery-Charger-Orange/32795585218.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.335.6mw7LI

The tilt angle looks like the culprit. is it 86^O to the vertical or horizontal? for optimum yield your panels should be almost flat...about 6^O inclination.
mind your the weather has not reached the 'clarity' of high yield.....probably after several rains however moving clouds becomes the show-stopper

sinistrian:
I think I am finding out the hard way that FLAMES solar panels have inflated specs. Even when I was using a PWM controller, I noticed my yield was consistently about half what it should be. I should have known - the Voc never ever reached 44V as advertised.

What i've tried so far:
* Moved from PWM to a Fangpusun 100/50 MPPT charge controller
* Increase my battery bank from 24V 200Ah to 24V 400Ah
* Changed all my cable connectors to MC4 (money!)
* Tilted panels to 86^O based on clinometer recommendations
* Changed from 1 x 4 array to 2 x 2 array
* Moved all panels completely out of next-building shade (the last one was being shaded slightly)
* Added 2 more panels and changed panel output voltage to 72V
* Changed batteries to a 48V system and 145/60 charge controller
* Clean panels with sponge and water twice a week
* Drop my DOD to 55% and switch on power-hungry devices between 10am and 4pm.

From what I observed and the statistics I generated, and it's pretty much the same. So the nominal 300W panel is really performing like a quality Canadian Solar 200W panel. I guess I got what I paid for - each one was N50k. I'll just derate it on my calculations so that I can manage my expectations.

DMerciful:
The tilt angle looks like the culprit. is it 86^o to the vertical or horizontal? for optimum yield your panels should be almost flat...about 6^o inclination.
mind your the weather has not reached the 'clarity' of high yield.....probably after several rains however moving clouds becomes the show-stopper

86^o from the vertical. That's 4^o downward

earthrealm:


this is the one i got, though yet to commission it, as i already have desulphators hooked up...and am undecided about which is better....a desulphator, or a balancer

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/battery-balancer-for-12V-lead-acid-battery-connected-in-series-12V-battery-equalizer/32643577605.html?aff_platform=aaf&cpt=1518537032225&sk=6mia6uv&aff_trace_key=4d6e17ef8a3e4568917a88e9ddb7db2b-1518537032225-05782-6mia6uv&terminal_id=c63a4001af5f4498b06d032916111287

Hmmm bros bros, u no wan cari last at all

earthrealm:


aha, superb, this is the kind of review i have been looking for.
ook, 1 of the principal loads in the setup is a 2300w steam pressing iron..........n the closet substitue is a 1700w steam iron...any1 who knows or have a low power full steam iron should holla...guess that leaves me with prag or highpower inverter

Be careful with loading the ipower/gennex - It is rated at 5 KVA at 1 pF which is realistically 4 KW at 0.8 pf that is even at ambient of 25DEG C. I would say max 3.2 to 3.5 KW load at 40 DEG which we regularly see if the ventilation is poor .

why not parallel 2 genex ( they sell a seprate kit with card and cables) that way you get twice the solar charging also ( 6-7 KW total)
if you plan to run a 2.3 KW steam iron you need much more than 3 KWp solar stup[ to keep batteries charged

chris81964:
We finally started phase one of our project: Victron with Lithium batteries. We had to do three phase electrical connections, so we are doing three 8 kva Quattro Inverters. 250 / 100 MPPT Controller, Color Control GX, 2 x 200 AH Lithium HE 24V batteries Everything is mounted on the wall.
Tomorrow the wiring starts. We hope to be online tomorrow.
We have a fantastic team of people at AWPS Renewable Energy, LTD Nigeria's #1 provider of premium quality solar power. I beg make una hail dem when una see dem

More power... Kudos

makavele:


Apples to oranges . . . They serve slightly different purposes.
While a desulphator might work as a balancer'; a balancer would not work as a desulphator.
I'll go for the battery balancer over the desulphator

Me too

kiekie1:


That was my actual fear

Bros, you no fear reach me that day. You want try the speed I use come down. I don already dey
calculate how much be BrainBox for my head.
Cars wey dey my back dey blow horn, I no care about until I confirm say na just battery terminal issue.

makavele:
https://www.amazon.com/ZHC-Battery-Equalizer-Balancer-Connected/dp/B01JJ4X8CO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518535030&sr=8-1&keywords=zhc+battery+balancer

I had the 24V version of this from Aliexpress, it didn't last up to 4 months. Later change to Victron which is 9months plus

The awesome team of technicians at AWPS Renewable Energy grabbed the Lithium by the horns and you can see what they did