-Cut out after marking.
-also cut the center piece into two:this is where you insert your zip.

So for the back, you have 4 pieces.

The band:
In cutting the band, NEVER cut it straight but on the cross grain or bias or else it wouldn't sit well as it should.
1.Position your fabric on the bias as you can see from the photo
2.Measure and Cut out your waistline or underbust depending on where you want the band to begin.
(Don't forget seam allowance)

Mark out the width of the band, I used 4" cos I want a 3" band (half an inch above and below for joining seam allowance)
-cut out

Fold in two, place on the cross grain again (this is for the back band)
-leave out your zip allowance at the edge (remember I'm using a 1.5" zip allowance)
Cut out

-Cut double pieces for the band to act as a lining, I prefer to use the same fabric as lining as against actual lining.
-apply fabric stay to your band pieces.

Next we shape the back, apply interfacing, and insert the band..and then my work is done!

jadareese: Errrm....@onari ,d first piece u posted I assume is jus for d front bodice abi? bt goin by ur calc,d piece is enough to go round d circumference.since its jus d front bodice r we nt supposed to divide by 4 instead of 2 cos m havin so much excess frm dis front alone(tryin to be conservative here though!!)

Post your measurements let me see 'em. What you have shouldn't be able to go round the whole circumference. Note that we working with the front bodice folded in 2.
Based on the calculations from my measurements, I have approximately 24", that definitely cannot go round me as my bustline isn't 24"!

NOTE: for the back bodice,I made my fabric wider at the sides to make it more visible for tutorial purposes, I'm going to have to trim it up before shapening cos it's excess.

Hmm! Words can't express how I feel about what I'm seeing. You all are doing great.Efosaval I love your free spirit and teachings.keep it up.
Onnari,you should open a fashion school or write a book or something really,your techniques are very smart,clear,easy to understand and oh so concise. I actually just registered on nairaland because of you -to get my message across although I have been following this thread as a guest. You're talented dear can't wait to see your next post.
I'm no homo o! Lol!
PS. Forget about picture quality biko! The koko is in the process and that we see it at all and then, understand! Love ya!

onnari :
-Cut out after marking.
-also cut the center piece into two:this is where you insert your zip.

If you want to use a side zip, there's no need to cut your back centre piece into two.

Mak'sjoy:

If you want to use a side zip, there's no need to cut your back centre piece into two.

Obviously- but I'm not using a side zip. The orla kiely dress has got a back zip. So if a side zip is preferd by u, u can use a side zip and then you wouldn't have to cut the center back in two. Note that its always better to cut the back in2 back zip or no zip anyway ( there's a way to go about it as you don't just cut a straight line)this gives a better fit as we did for the sika wrap dress. Also check out some dresses and jackets and you'll see a joining seam at the back . It's just for fit purposes. So back zip or no,its advisable to do that.

tina mba: Hmm! Words can't express how I feel about what I'm seeing. You all are doing great.Efosaval I love your free spirit and teachings.keep it up.
Onnari,you should open a fashion school or write a book or something really,your techniques are very smart,clear,easy to understand and oh so concise. I actually just registered on nairaland because of you -to get my message across although I have been following this thread as a guest. You're talented dear can't wait to see your next post.
I'm no homo o! Lol!
PS. Forget about picture quality biko! The koko is in the process and that we see it at all and then, understand! Love ya!

Thanks dear. Appreciate u. *hugs*

I want to believe we are done making the top (blouse), middle (band) and bottom (skirt) parts.
Next, join the top front with the front band using yr 1" allowance, do likewise for back pieces, (remember d back pieces are stil separate, or not, depending where you want to fix your zip). If back pieces are separate, pin together, using your zip allowance.
Then, join your front top to the back top, using your bust, empire, and waist measures. Now you have a single top, all joined together.
The bottom (skirt can now come in). Join skirt to top using your predetermined allowance, from zip allowance at the back, through the front all the way to the back again. You have in your hands now, a gown, an open gown.
Now, close up the gown, by joining at the back, from the bottom of the gown, to the point where your zip should stop, that is, slight below your tail bone. ( on the raise of your bottom, about 3" or 4" below your band.) Remember to backstitch to lock your sewing. Now you have a half open gown, open from the top (neckline) behind.

Sorry, i don't hav pictures yet, i hav not started wok on ky own gown yet. But, I'll post my wok in progress pics ASA i start.

Now, insert your zip, from the tip of your back neckline. You have a completed gown now, but, not your completed Orla Keily gown yet! On the front part of the gown, using tour needle and matching thread, attach your buttons, on the band, directly beneath your darts. As shown on the Orla Keily gown pic. And, voila! You have your own version of the Orla Keily gown to rock!
Congratulations ladies!
@Efosaval, @Onnari, WELDONE!

Mak'sjoy:

If you want to use a side zip, there's no need to cut your back centre piece into two.

@Mak'sjoy, I was about to ask if I need to cut my back piece into two because I'm fixing my zipper by the side. Thanks a lot.

Mak'sjoy:
Now, insert your zip, from the tip of your back neckline. You have a completed gown now, but, not your completed Orla Keily gown yet! On the front part of the gown, using tour needle and matching thread, attach your buttons, on the band, directly beneath your darts. As shown on the Orla Keily gown pic. And, voila! You have your own version of the Orla Keily gown to rock!
Congratulations ladies!
@Efosaval, @Onnari, WELDONE!

Thanks dear, but we aren't through with the front/back bodice yet and haven't even joined to the band yet :-) and seeing that you're yet to upload pics, you see another reason to wait
I know all the waiting can be tiring , we're almost done.

onnari :


From the center to the joining seam cut in a straight line, from the joining seam outwards, slant upwards half an inch frm the bottom

Thanks, I get it now. Pls what is the lenght of your bodice?

wizb:

@Mak'sjoy, I was about to ask if I need to cut my back piece into two because I'm fixing my zipper by the side. Thanks a lot.

No you don't need to cut the back if you doing a side zip- though you might still need to cut it for better fit (the way you see some joining seams @ the center back of jackets, and some dresses.) *we did this for the sika dress,the back had 4 pieces* Note that this is optional but if you want to,let me knw and I'l show you how otherwise you can leave it @ a one piece.

Marksjoy we are waiting for pictures as we are visual learners.
Efosa, your explanation was wonderful please can you share your method of cutting the back bodice as well....pretty please.
Onnari....cyber hug for your commitment to this thread.

onnari :


No you don't need to cut the back if you doing a side zip- though you might still need to cut it for better fit (the way you see some joining seams @ the center back of jackets, and some dresses.) *we did this for the sika dress,the back had 4 pieces* Note that this is optional but if you want to,let me knw and I'l show you how otherwise you can leave it @ a one piece.

Thanks Onnari. Please show me how to cut the back piece into four.

One more question...onnari will you be taking us through cutting and attaching neck facing and armhole facing?
Also how are you finishing your inside seams? My fabric frays ....how can I protect it if I don't use lining?

@Wizb, u'r welcom.

onnari :
-Next we shape the back, apply interfacing, and insert the band..and then my work is done!

EFOSA VAL: Placing all together my out fit is almost ready




Over to the next instructor,my skirt part is done
I hope it was clear enough.......if not just ask any qestions i will be happy to go over it again

@Onnari, i was handed d baton.
@Yodiyokun, I'll post my pics asap.

Mak'sjoy:
@Wizb, u'r welcom.




@Onnari, i was handed d baton.
@Yodiyokun, I'll post my pics asap.

No dear- I'm don't done, I wrote that we'd be doing the facings and shapening next so it isn't complete yet, and efosa would put participants through on sewing the complete skirt parts asides the cutting. Ur part then comes when you join bodice to skirt.

wizb:

Thanks Onnari. Please show me how to cut the back piece into four.

Sure- Would do that tonight.

EFOSA VAL: Placing all together my out fit is almost ready




Over to the next instructor,my skirt part is done
I hope it was clear enough.......if not just ask any qestions i will be happy to go over it again

Pls o dearie don't run just yet! Pls put participants through the sewing of the skirts, gathers etc. Thnx ur doing grrreeeeeeat!! *hugs*

yodiyokun: One more question...onnari will you be taking us through cutting and attaching neck facing and armhole facing?
Also how are you finishing your inside seams? My fabric frays ....how can I protect it if I don't use lining?

Yes I would. To finish I'm using an overlock machine. If you don't have that, you can use zig zag stitches

What measurements are you working with? Post
your bust, and waist measurements.

I'm workin wt dis; bust: 38.5/38/35.5
waist:39

@Efosa and onnari, pls I'm still waiting for the back bodice illustrations. Thanx for all ur efforts so far.

@ Efosa pls for d skirt I have 56inches left frm my material and my waist is 35 same as urs..wat wil I do. I gues I wil do only pleatns or wat

Thanks Onnari and Efosa-Val. Am enjoying the Orla Kiely yellow dress tutorial. I googled the dress.It actually worths $285. here is the back veiw

Front piece of skirt

Back piece of skirt.

@Efosa, Mak'sJoy and Onnari, thank you so much.

@Onnari, please I'm waiting for the bodice back piece. Thanks.