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'African prints', popularly called Ankara, have over the past few years, declared their presence from the local to the
national, regional and global scene. Wherever you see the ankara fabrics, the first thing that comes to mind is 'African prints'. But how much of it is authentically African? Last week I went to Wuse market in Abuja to sample three particular fabrics that have been making waves in Abuja, at least for the past 5 years - Dutch Wax or Hollandais, George, and French lace. These fabrics are well known as the primary choice of
women when sewing the traditional shirt and blouse/blouse and wrapper/buba and iro. However, their origins are entirelly foreign.

George: The earliest George came from the UK.

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Above; older version of George which reigned in the 1970s and 1980s. Costs about N2,500 (asking).

Above, the latest type of George; the Indian George. Worn below as a skirt or wrapper, it's a favourite for many trendy women and young girls. The price ranges from N10,000 to N15,000 and above (asking). Could be higher or lower depending on your bargaining power.

Hollandais/Dutchwax/Vlisco and Hi-Target:

Just as the name goes, Hollandais is from Holland, Dutchwax is from the Netherlands. Their biggest market is in Africa and the fabrics have been embraced to represent various events both in the continent and in Nigeria. Below is the famous jumping horse (left) and the round stool (far right) popularized byVlisco (The Netherlands) in the 1980s. They are highly coveted today and due to their quality, they are sold between N8,000 - N15,000 and above asking. Thanks to Hi-target, a Chinese brand, you can get these prints at N2,000 to N2,500, asking. The pictures below are hi-target.

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The Gele: The head piece (below).

Most of them come from Europe and Asia. Prices range from N1,000 and above.
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French Lace: Needless to say, French Lace is from France.

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With the booming business for the European and Asian fabrics in the country, little can be said of how their Nigerian counterparts are faring. I will not be in a haste to call ankara 'authentically African' at this time, as I cannot say for sure how many of them are woven and processed at our local looms. Also questions that beg for answers: how many Nigerians are involved in the labour force of manufacturing these fabrics? are we only consuming? what is happening to the Nigerian textile industry?

http://abujafood..com/2013/09/how-african-are-african-fabrics-ankara.html

how do you identify the original holansirs from the chinese ones?

What's d minimum price for a George Lace per yard?

Did Africans have any thing to do with the designs or even the name "ankara"?

The only thing Africa has been able to produce in great abundance in recent years is poverty

I want to purchase designs created by Africans ONLY. How can I be able to tell which designs or brands are African (besides the obvious like the beautiful mudcloth fabrics etc). Also, is Ankara different from the vlisco fabrics? I'm serious about putting money into indigenous pockets, so please do help. I find those patterns up there quite dull. Ashanti kente is much nicer. But I understand kente cloth is expensive. And adinkra cloth too. I don't know why adinkra isn't as popular. It better in my opinion and less contrived.

This is new school.