spiderone: Hello, Pls i drive a 98 Camry. Got it just last month and the only cause for concern is that, at start-up i have to turn the key in the ignition at least twice before the engine starts. I am not comfortable with this at all and i want to be sure of the problem before taking the car to the mechanics'
Pls what are the likely cause(s) of this?
Thanks!
Note: Engine and Battery are in good condition

I guess its a fuel pressure issue, since you have to start more than once, to be sure, turn on the ignition more than once (without cranking) hold for 5secs, on each turn then start, if its starts up once then I suggest you have your fuel pump checked. If there's a check light on instrument panel have your car scanned.

Read a little more on this thread, about fuel pumps and how they work.

Best of luck.

TCD: thanks. What does SN above mean please, synthetic?

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating they are "winter" (not "weight" or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades.

Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.

The SAE has a separate viscosity rating system for gear, axle, and manual transmission oils, SAE J306, which should not be confused with engine oil viscosity. The higher numbers of a gear oil (e.g., 75W-140) do not mean that it has higher viscosity than an engine oil.

Single-grade
A single-grade engine oil, as defined by SAE J300, cannot use a polymeric Viscosity Index Improver (also referred to as Viscosity Modifier) additive. SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation. The 11 viscosity grades are 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the "weight" of a motor oil, and single-grade motor oils are often called "straight-weight" oils.

For single winter grade oils, the dynamic viscosity is measured at different cold temperatures, specified in J300 depending on the viscosity grade, in units of mPa·s, or the equivalent older non-SI units, centipoise (abbreviated cP), using two different test methods. They are the Cold Cranking Simulator (ASTMD5293) and the Mini-Rotary Viscometer (ASTM D4684). Based on the coldest temperature the oil passes at, that oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The lower the viscosity grade, the lower the temperature the oil can pass. For example, if an oil passes at the specifications for 10W and 5W, but fails for 0W, then that oil must be labeled as an SAE 5W. That oil cannot be labeled as either 0W or 10W.

For single non-winter grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a temperature of 100 °C (212 °F) in units of mm2/s (millimeter squared per second) or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. In addition, for SAE grades 20, 30, and 1000, a minimum viscosity measured at 150 °C (302 °F) and at a high-shear rate is also required. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE viscosity grade is.

Multi-grade
The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up, to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a lower viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for most single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIIs are added to the oil. These additives are used to make the oil a multi-grade motor oil, though it is possible to have a multi-grade oil without the use of VIIs. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base grade when cold and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This enables one type of oil to be used all year. In fact, when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two viscosity grades; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number '10W' is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperature and the second number is the viscosity at 100 °C. The two numbers used are individually defined by SAE J300 for single-grade oils. Therefore, an oil labeled as 10W-30 must pass the SAE J300 viscosity grade requirement for both 10W and 30, and all limitations placed on the viscosity grades (for example, a 10W-30 oil must fail the J300 requirements at 5W). Also, if an oil does not contain any VIIs, and can pass as a multi-grade, that oil can be labelled with either of the two SAE viscosity grades. For example, a very simple multi-grade oil that can be easily made with modern base oils without any VII is a 20W-20. This oil can be labeled as 20W-20, 20W, or 20. Note, if any VIIs are used however, then that oil cannot be labeled as a single grade.

Breakdown of VIIs under shear is a concern in motorcycle applications, where the transmission may share lubricating oil with the motor. For this reason, synthetic oil or motorcycle-specific oil is sometimes recommended.[9][10] The necessity of higher-priced motorcycle-specific oil has also been challenged by at least one consumer organization.[11

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Thanks Gazzuzz my brakes are in good shape now.

GAZZUZZ:

I guess its a fuel pressure issue, since you have to start more than once, to be sure, turn on the ignition more than once (without cranking) hold for 5secs, on each turn then start, if its starts up once then I suggest you have your fuel pump checked. If there's a check light on instrument panel have your car scanned.

Read a little more on this thread, about fuel pumps and how they work.

Best of luck.

@GAZZUZZ, Thanks a bunch bro. I guess i have to get the car scanned. Will holla at you soon. Cheers.

Hi. Pls my brake pedal feels soft not as hard and springy as usual. One mech says I should replace the master cylinder, another says to replace brake pads and calipers. I'm not really cut ready for trial and error mechanics. Although the break pads are truly worn when I checked, but will worn out breaks and calipers cause a soft break pedal?

TCD: Hi. Pls my brake pedal feels soft not as hard and springy as usual. One mech says I should replace the master cylinder, another says to replace brake pads and calipers. I'm not really cut ready for trial and error mechanics. Although the break pads are truly worn when I checked, but will worn out breaks and calipers cause a soft break pedal?

Worn out brake pads Should not cause your pedal to feel soft, if you have a leak and air has been introduced to your hydraulic system yes it could feel soft,also if your brake fluid dropped so low as to allow air into the system, yes it could feel soft and finally if your brake master cylinder is faulty it could also feel soft. Have your system bleed to release air pockets inside your brake lines, if its still soft replace brake master.

GAZZUZZ:

Worn out brake pads Should not cause your pedal to feel soft, if you have a leak and air has been introduced to your hydraulic system yes it could feel soft,also if your brake fluid dropped so low as to allow air into the system, yes it could feel soft and finally if your brake master cylinder is faulty it could also feel soft. Have your system bleed to release air pockets inside your brake lines, if its still soft replace brake master.

. Thanks a lot. Will have it checked out.

GAZZUZZ: This thread is dedicated to solving car related problems, it will cover all issues feel free to post problems here, Car gurus your posts are welcome and highly appreciated.

following ...

Very helpfull and quiet educating

Hello, I just acquired a 2007 Honda and would like to find out the best fluids for the following:

Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Automatic transmission fluid
Coolant
Brake fluid
Washer fluid

I would also like to find out if it is possible to get the Fluids manufactured by Honda in Nigeria, and if possible, where?

God bless you for this good work.

I have a 190 mercedez car, it consumes fuel a lot, what should I do, what is the causee.... It is an injector car..

GAZZUZZ:
How Catalytic Converters work

In the catalytic converter, there are two different types of catalyst at work, a reduction catalyst and an oxidation catalyst. Both types consist of a ceramic structure coated with a metal catalyst, usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium. The idea is to create a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of catalyst to the exhaust stream, while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required, as the materials are extremely expensive. Some of the newest converters have even started to use gold mixed with the more traditional catalysts. Gold is cheaper than the other materials and could increase oxidation­, the chemical reaction that reduces pollutants, by up to 40 percent.

Most modern cars are equipped with three-way catalytic converters. This refers to the three regulated emissions it helps to reduce.

­The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2. For example:
2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2

2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2

Ceramic honeycomb catalyst structure.

The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. For example:

2CO + O2 => 2CO2

There are two main types of structures used in catalytic converters -- honeycomb and ceramic beads. Most cars today use a honeycomb structure.

Can absence of Catalytic Converter(either bad or stolen) affect fuel cosumption of a car?

I use honda accord 1999 model uk. I noticed that whenever I throttled, the car will make a sound as if it sucks air. And I have changed the plugs. Could any leakage from the exhaust cause this problem? Or is there anything wrong with the engine? Please I need your help. Thanks as I awaits u.

Quiet informative

Good job OP, you are an authority in this field...I hope I don't have issues when I buy my first car in 2-3years by God's grace but if I do, I will definitely come running to you via this thread

Hello, I replaced my Peugeot 406 tyres and then balancing and alignment was done after the replacement. But the problem is that I noticed my gear stick is no longer soft. I have to struggle to change gear. Please what is the solution.

Okay

Very useful thread.

I had the wheel studs and break pads on my Odyssey replaced 3 days ago, and since then the ABS and TCS has been on. The mechanic did a lot of banging during the work, could he have damaged anything? The car moves ok, not I'm not comfortable with those indicators being on like that. Pls what can be the problem and likely solution?

please I have a problem with the a/c in the ml Mercedes I drive,I was told the gas is leaking....is there any way one can fix this problem without creating a mess

Gazzuzz lovely thread. I have a honda accord 2004 lx model. I withness intense vibrations when my car is idiling and it becomes worse with the ac on. I was told to change my 3 engine mounts which I did, yet the vibrations hasnt left, also cleaned the inner part of my throttle body. Yet, the vibrations hasnt disappeared. My check light read this code p0141.

This great job from you is highly commendable. More blessing.
Please my Honda baby boy 99 model has been poorly consuming fuel, so I had it scanned having shown "Check Engine Light". The scann shown the following codes:

P0108
P0420
P0301
P0302
P0300

Kindly help on what to do and how to go about it. I don't want these Mechanics to spoil my car

WHOAH

Well done gazzuzz, my 95 4runner is having a funny problem, my automatic gear selects well, the engine runs smoothly but on acceleration it lags. Really slows down especially when you are going up hill. On reaching level ground it struggles then catches up well. My mechanic suggested opening up the gear box but I'm really confused don't think that's the problem. Plz any ideas

I really love this thread, been reading it for awhile, as a DIY aficionado myself!

GAZZUZZ, you are doing a marvellous job, l just hope you dont get swarmed with too many questions as it were.

I will suggest that fellow Nairalanders try to read up the thread from page1 first before asking questions, just in-case your issue has been treated already ....... l am beginning to see "repeats" and it can be frustrating to keep repaeting yourself.

Other "gurrus", ...........pls come around and chip-in, "experience is priceless".

Big-Ups Bro

Lastpage!

.
Lastapge!

Nice thread

davdandam: Well done gazzuzz, my 95 4runner is having a funny problem, my automatic gear selects well, the engine runs smoothly but on acceleration it lags. Really slows down especially when you are going up hill. On reaching level ground it struggles then catches up well. My mechanic suggested opening up the gear box but I'm really confused don't think that's the problem. Plz any ideas

Seems your transmission is slipping due to old age I'm not too conversant with the price of your gear box but advice ably have it replaced. Opening and replacing "fibers" doesn't always work out well in nigerian settings.

Belexy: Nice thread

Thank you belexy.

lastpage: I really love this thread, been reading it for awhile, as a DIY aficionado myself!

GAZZUZZ, you are doing a marvellous job, l just hope you dont get swarmed with too many questions as it were.

I will suggest that fellow Nairalanders try to read up the thread from page1 first before asking questions, just in-case your issue has been treated already ....... l am beginning to see "repeats" and it can be frustrating to keep repaeting yourself.

Other "gurrus", ...........pls come around and chip-in, "experience is priceless".

Big-Ups Bro

Lastpage!

Thank you lastpage.

GAZZUZZ:

Seems your transmission is slipping due to old age I'm not too conversant with the price of your gear box but advice ably have it replaced. Opening and replacing "fibers" doesn't always work out well in nigerian settings.

Thanks heard transmission is 120k imagine o....will open it up first hope it works