ojeysky:


They were discharging at less than 85% DoD, you can check the live data to verify. They tried to keep the test to the recommended 80% DoD. It's on track to 60% SOH at almost 4.4k cycles. I don't believe it will have 80% capacity left after 6k cycles(aggressive or not).
However I may be wrong Sir.

Exactly what GeorgeD1 is trying to tell you

ceaser:


Ordered since almost two months ago. No sign of it arriving. That's why I'm trying to settle with sourcing locally.

Please, that resistor you talked about, is that also available locally? I mean those white big cuboid shape type that Will Prowse use in his videos to first discharge before connecting batteries to inverters to prevent that spark. I may have done a little, maybe non fatal, damage to one of my MPPTs from such sparks - in a 24v system. I'm worried such sparks will be worse with a 48v system and I really need to arm myself with that resistor.

I found out that resistor is likely the type used in DC fan regulators (the push button regulators, not the digital ones).

The picture attached is one of the 48v/28ah pack. The second case isn't filled yet.

Sincerely I don't know much about getting components locally, I source majority of them online.

Looking at your pictures, I've decided that I'll find time to assemble my battery myself. It would even allow me determine the form/shape I prefer considering what I need it for, but the issue is, no spot welder. What safety precautions do you take soldering those cells directly? considering they're not too comfortable with heating.

ceaser:


Ordered since almost two months ago. No sign of it arriving. That's why I'm trying to settle with sourcing locally.

Please, that resistor you talked about, is that also available locally? I mean those white big cuboid shape type that Will Prowse use in his videos to first discharge before connecting batteries to inverters to prevent that spark. I may have done a little, maybe non fatal, damage to one of my MPPTs from such sparks - in a 24v system. I'm worried such sparks will be worse with a 48v system and I really need to arm myself with that resistor.

I found out that resistor is likely the type used in DC fan regulators (the push button regulators, not the digital ones).

The picture attached is one of the 48v/28ah pack. The second case isn't filled yet.

You bought those cells?

What's the brand of bms used?

My 48v has to be 13s(that's the convention for what I need it for)

myvic70:
I have this Mikrotek 1kva inverter am giving out. it has Pib problem.
I will give it our for 15k.Just change the pib and enjoy it

serious person can pick it up

zero eight 0 6.0082795

if I may ask what is PIB Problem?
ur location?

It is key to know all the variables that affect the long term performance of batteries.

Two elements I want to highlight;

1) Temperature effects on battery capacity and lifespan - Most batteries are specd at 25°C. Running them at warmer temperatures will give you slightly more capacity but shorten the service life as heat accelerates the destructive processes inside all batteries.

I don't have the decline curve for Pylontech but anecdotally expect to lose at least 1 to 2 years or 500 to 1,000 cycles for not keeping them at reference temperature.

In the testing, the batteries were subjected to ambient temperatures as low as 10°C and as high as 36°C. Every day of a summer month two cycles at the monthly high temperature and one cycle at the monthly low and vice versa for winter months.

2) Charge algorithm effects - Pylons spec 52.5v to 53.2v as charge algorithm. Most inverters default to the highest voltage setpoint for best performance (ensure 100% charge). Conventional wisdom says Lithium does not need to get to 100% SoC and may even be destructive going that far. I do not know what specific voltage setpoint used for testing but I know that nearly every other inverter manufacturer except for Victron shoots for the 53.2v max target.

Victron makes Lithium batteries too so they are probably in on some secrets.

When you bring these two variables together and also realise that the batteries faced these conditions 3 times daily, it is no surprise that they did not trend towards making the promised capacity retention and may not also make the advertised cycles.

To be clear, the Pylon promise is 80% capacity left after 6,000 cycles to 80% DoD at 25°C.

All the batteries were genuinely abused for this test and would do much better under real world household use conditions.

I keep a temperature controlled battery room set for 25°C for the ambient - under charge and heavy discharge, the actual battery cells may rise to 28°C or 29°C. Imagine if the ambient was 36°C then you had have battery cells going up to 40°C - definitely bad for longevity.

Thinking about it now, I will drop my ambient temperature to 23°C. I must handover those batteries to my kids at the end of 15 odd years.

Dam5reey:


Exactly what GeorgeD1 is trying to tell you

BetaTechnicians:

Sincerely I don't know much about getting components locally, I source majority of them online.

Looking at your pictures, I've decided that I'll find time to assemble my battery myself. It would even allow me determine the form/shape I prefer considering what I need it for, but the issue is, no spot welder. What safety precautions do you take soldering those cells directly? considering they're not too comfortable with heating.

Order for your spot welder online. Though if you are very good in soldering and own the right soldering iron and lead, I guess you can solder it.

Dam5reey:


Exactly what GeorgeD1 is trying to tell you

Lol....okay it's not my cells that promises 6k though but let's not start this new week on this same topic Bro no need to argue again.

BetaTechnicians:

Sincerely I don't know much about getting components locally, I source majority of them online.

Looking at your pictures, I've decided that I'll find time to assemble my battery myself. It would even allow me determine the form/shape I prefer considering what I need it for, but the issue is, no spot welder. What safety precautions do you take soldering those cells directly? considering they're not too comfortable with heating.

I solder my own cells using a 60w soldering iron as a spot welder is expensive to acquire for me at the moment, and so far so good the soldering has held up

Happy New week our office at alaba international market ojo lagos is now open for business get ur solar panel new and used, battery new and used from us. And we can also be ur local market hub for u dis week to help u get anything from d market outside solar product
08028074483 call
09013128166 what'sapp

Good evening to you all.
Am venturing already into LiFePO4....,please Can anyone help me configure my Epever 12/24Volts MPPT solar CC for its charging settings to enable me specifically charge my newly acquired 24volts LiFePO4 Ba3s?
As I can not see place for LiFePO4,except for Gel,Flooded,Sealed and USER for only Lead Ba3s....

Copy:@Ojeysky,@Niyiomolyunade,@BetaTechnicians,@Peneulseun,@Ceaser,@Adrusa,@Oshomo12,@Dam5reey,@Truthbetold22 etc

Thanks as I await your quick response.....

Monlo:
Good evening to you all.
Am venturing already into LiFePO4....,please Can anyone help me configure my Epever 12/24Volts MPPT solar CC for its charging settings to enable me specifically charge my newly acquired 24volts LiFePO4 Ba3s?
As I can not see place for LiFePO4,except for Gel,Flooded,Sealed and USER for only Lead Ba3s....

Copy:@Ojeysky,@Niyiomolyunade,@BetaTechnicians,@Peneulseun,@Ceaser,@Adrusa,@Oshomo12,@Dam5reey,@Truthbetold22 etc

Thanks as I await your quick response.....

can we see the type of Epsolar CC, picture?

Feel free to ask us for d price
Location
Alaba international market ojo lagos
Whatsaap 09013128166
Call 08028074483

Monlo:
Good evening to you all.
Am venturing already into LiFePO4....,please Can anyone help me configure my Epever 12/24Volts MPPT solar CC for its charging settings to enable me specifically charge my newly acquired 24volts LiFePO4 Ba3s?
As I can not see place for LiFePO4,except for Gel,Flooded,Sealed and USER for only Lead Ba3s....

Copy:@Ojeysky,@Niyiomolyunade,@BetaTechnicians,@Peneulseun,@Ceaser,@Adrusa,@Oshomo12,@Dam5reey,@Truthbetold22 etc

Thanks as I await your quick response.....

I believe "user" is the setting for you. Upload a picture of your CC first

Goodevening everyone,

Our dear pros in the house, the tempo has really been high from a few pages back. At some point I was feeling like a "truck pusher" with no understand of all the arguments/discussions.

Infact, at some point it was as if I was not comprehending the whole English. I kept checking to be sure if whats being discussed was still the inverter affairs with all the BMS, Lifepo, Pylon etc terminologies. Got fed up and confused even the the more though learnt a few things and got lost a lot more. It really went far beyound the DIY thing frankly writing. Guys, we/I as a newbie "is not understanding o" come down to our level once again please.

Meanwhile i have something I did like to share. I think this will be for the gurus to educate us more and if it's right, newbies like me can pick something new as to improvice too...

Firstly, I would like to make it clear that my steps or methodology are not conventional and I had to try this due to, majorly, financial constraints, and in a bid to try something out of the ordinary.

We all know how the inverter systems works as a proper setup which is:

Connect the PVs to a CC, then the CC to the batteries, the inverter to the batteries then house load to the inverter.

Again, for financial constraints and in bid to try sometin new, I decided to eliminate the PV by using a small automatic battery charger that outputs 12amp charge. (see bellow image of the charger and my bts inverter)

SETUP:
With the batteries (unconventional batteries) connected to the inverter, I then connected the charger to the AC output of the inverter.

With grid, the inverter is supplying the house and charging the batteries while the charger is also getting AC from the inverter and juicing the batteries at its own automated charge. Meaning, as the battery is getting full, it's charging amp is reduced from 12amp through till 1amp then cuts off (this charge has CC, CV, FC and TL charge stages whick I don't know what they stand for as they are not writing on the manual). Sometimes the inverter Cuts off charging first and other times the charger.

Without grid, the inverter sucks from the battery to feed the house and also feeds the charger which inturn feeds the batteries like a loop.

What I have gained doing this is more online time. Eg. If I was getting xy time without the charger, now I get an additional z time meaning I now get xyz live time.

I have only used this setup for precisely 9days and am still monitoring carefully to know if there will be any consequences... DISCLAIMER: PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME IF YOU CAN NOT MANAGE IT OR YOU ARE NOT AT HOME TO EXTINGUISH INCASE OF FIRE! .

While, I would appreciate gurus to please imagine this setup and let's know ur thoughts. Though GeorgeD1 and I have been discussing offline about this and he disagrees with me on some of my planned actions but because am on ground to monitor, I decided to give it a shoot... After all, it's all about DIY... Lol


I did like to also give my oughtmost appreciation to GeorgeD1 for his time support and willingness to even call me on his account just to relay info. Sometimes I wonder what I did do to make him know I appreciate, but he would say "pay the kindness forward".

Dear GeorgeD1, knowing ur busy schedule, I had to come narrate this here knowing u will surely see it too and we can talk if need be or I will read ur comments here.

Thank u so much GeorgeD1. U are indeed appreciated sir.

In all of these, am still struggling to read up from page 1.currently on page 134...not easy... Lol

You are simply wasting energy at the part where you are trying to charge the battery by powering a charger from the AC output of an inverter connected to thesame battery.

In a no grid or gen situation, the amount of energy stored in a battery is fixed. It cannot be increased except from an external source. So trying to feed a charger off the battery to charge the same battery you are wasting energy due to the following.

1) Charge efficiency - On average a lead acid battery needs 20% more energy put in to replace what was consumed. You take out 100Ah you need to put back at least 120Ah for a full charge. Lithium packs may approach nearly perfect charge efficiency.

2) Losses in DC to AC conversion between battery and inverter then AC to DC conversion between charger and battery - all these amplified by a factor of 1.2 at least as I said above.

Try an experiment to help you.

Without grid and your battery fully charged, run a fixed load with your loop arrangement and see how long the battery lasts before cutoff

Round 2, ensure battery fully charged as before then disconnect the external charger - run thesame fixed loads and see how long the battery lasts before cutoff.

contease:
Goodevening everyone,

Our dear pros in the house, the tempo has really been high from a few pages back. At some point I was feeling like a "truck pusher" with no understand of all the arguments/discussions.


Without grid, the inverter sucks from the battery to feed the house and also feeds the charger which inturn feeds the batteries like a loop.

What I have gained doing this is more online time. Eg. If I was getting xy time without the charger, now I get an additional z time meaning I now get xyz live time.

I have only used this setup for precisely 9days and am still monitoring carefully to know if there will be any consequences... [

While, I would appreciate gurus to please imagine this setup and let's know ur thoughts.

Dear GeorgeD1, knowing ur busy schedule, I had to come narrate this here knowing u will surely see it too and we can talk if need be or I will read ur comments here.

Thank u so much GeorgeD1. U are indeed appreciated sir.

In all of these, am still struggling to read up from page 1.currently on page 134...not easy... Lol

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are simply wasting energy at the part where you are trying to charge the battery by powering a charger from the AC output of an inverter connected to thesame battery.

In a no grid or gen situation, the amount of energy stored in a battery is fixed. It cannot be increased except from an external source. So trying to feed a charger off the battery to charge the same battery you are wasting energy due to the following.

1) Charge efficiency - On average a lead acid battery needs 20% more energy put in to replace what was consumed. You take out 100Ah you need to put back at least 120Ah for a full charge. Lithium packs may approach nearly perfect charge efficiency.

2) Losses in DC to AC conversion between battery and inverter then AC to DC conversion between charger and battery - all these amplified by a factor of 1.2 at least as I said above.

Try an experiment to help you.

Without grid and your battery fully charged, run a fixed load with your loop arrangement and see how long the battery lasts before cutoff

Round 2, ensure battery fully charged as before then disconnect the external charger - run thesame fixed loads and see how long the battery lasts before cutoff.

OK, will do precisely that and report back... Due to epileptic grid, have not been able carry out such test but I only noticed a faster charge and a three times cut off from either of the systems in the past 9days.

Thank you once again.

Monlo:

Don't worry,already in talks with @Juo,hopefully when my LiFePO4 batteries got delivered by tomorrow,will hastily put em up for sales here.
Watch out.......
Sun energy rules....

Alright bro. Thanks. I will be in touch

BetaTechnicians:

Sincerely I don't know much about getting components locally, I source majority of them online.

Looking at your pictures, I've decided that I'll find time to assemble my battery myself. It would even allow me determine the form/shape I prefer considering what I need it for, but the issue is, no spot welder. What safety precautions do you take soldering those cells directly? considering they're not too comfortable with heating.

Watched some YT videos on soldering those things safely. The secret is not to let the soldering iron spend too much time at the soldering points. I think the batteries will still survive the mild heat generated therefrom.

BetaTechnicians:


You bought those cells?

What's the brand of bms used?

My 48v has to be 13s(that's the convention for what I need it for)

Yep, bought.

The Daly BMS I had lying around doesn't have a temperature sensor. So i scouted around for an equally good brand with a sensor online. Picture attached.

Is your pack not meant to be used in solar inverter application? Usually 13s config is common with e-bikes and the likes.

mctfopt:


Order for your spot welder online. Though if you are very good in soldering and own the right soldering iron and lead, I guess you can solder it.

There is this USB power bank portable spot welder that I came across online. With shipping costs 27k or thereabout.

180w-500w AC or DC available

ceaser:


There is this USB power bank portable spot welder that I came across online. With shipping costs 27k or thereabout.

Looks good for a hobbyist and DIY enthusiast who wants a portable spot welder to use. I guess this may serve, surprisingly our Nigerian person that bought did not review it well, just posted pictures. I love Amazon reviews (though some may be fake) but at least users go all out to give indepth review of things they bought. "I received it" "Good item" no be review na.


Edit: Just saw a YouTube video of it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1HZs4ix_6s

Good for a hobbyist.

contease:


OK, will do precisely that and report back... Due to epileptic grid, have not been able carry out such test but I only noticed a faster charge and a three times cut off from either of the systems in the past 9days.

Thank you once again.

as Niyi said, you are wasting energy, leaving your standalone battery charger connected to the inverter when phcn/grid is off..

the increased run time you appear to be getting from your battery, implies that your inverter isnt charging the battery properly, that the addition of the charger is ensuring the battery is charged better and faster. for example if your battery is 200ah, and you used 120ah from it, so theoritically you have 80ah remaining, if you inverter out puts 8ah, then you need 10hrs to refill the battery [in real life its more like 12 hrs, due to losses/inefficiencies], but if you standalone charger is kicking in 12amps, plus the 8amps from the inverter, then you need only 4hrs to charge the battery full......

knowing the epileptic nature of phcn, this combo charging is better and will ensure your battery gets a decent charge for the few hours that phcn/grid is available.

the 2nd possibility is charge voltage, your inverter may not be outputting the correct charge voltage that your battery needs, while its the standalone that is giving it that voltage, example Quanta spec is 13.8v absorb voltage, while kung long battery says 14.8v for absorbtion, most cheap 12v inverter, luminous,mecury etc, only send out 14.4v max at absorption, so unless you have an inverter with editable charge voltage settings, your batts will always be undercharged

Good morning .
Thanks for your concern.
Attached are pics of the Epever Solar CC taken this morning at 8 '0 clock.

Penuelseun:
I believe "user" is the setting for you. Upload a picture of your CC first

Oshomo12:


can we see the type of Epsolar CC, picture?

I really appreciate.
Sun energy rules.......

JUO:
180w-500w AC or DC available

The details please, especially for the 180w, 24v, AC and DC

• Lift Max
• Nozzle diameter
• Pump enclosure dimensions (length etc)
• Price

earthrealm:


as Niyi said, you are wasting energy, leaving your standalone battery charger connected to the inverter when phcn/grid is off..

the increased run time you appear to be getting from your battery, implies that your inverter isnt charging the battery properly, that the addition of the charger is ensuring the battery is charged better and faster. for example if your battery is 200ah, and you used 120ah from it, so theoritically you have 80ah remaining, if you inverter out puts 8ah, then you need 10hrs to refill the battery [in real life its more like 12 hrs, due to losses/inefficiencies], but if you standalone charger is kicking in 12amps, plus the 8amps from the inverter, then you need only 4hrs to charge the battery full......

knowing the epileptic nature of phcn, this combo charging is better and will ensure your battery gets a decent charge for the few hours that phcn/grid is available.

the 2nd possibility is charge voltage, your inverter may not be outputting the correct charge voltage that your battery needs, while its the standalone that is giving it that voltage, example Quanta spec is 13.8v absorb voltage, while kung long battery says 14.8v for absorbtion, most cheap 12v inverter, luminous,mecury etc, only send out 14.4v max at absorption, so unless you have an inverter with editable charge voltage settings, your batts will always be undercharged

Many thanks for this detailed explanation once again @earthrealm. So much to learn here.

My inverter spec claims to be outputting 10amp/20amp but since it doesn't have a proper display other than the 4bars that shows charging or depletion like an old phone am not even sure of the true charging amp.

Well, will carry out the test and monitor precisely what the difference is in time loss/gain. At most, the standalone will be used as a complimentary booster going forward as you highlighted.


Now I know better. Thank you so much...

contease:
Goodevening everyone,


Meanwhile i have something I did like to share. I think this will be for the gurus to educate us more and if it's right, newbies like me can pick something new as to improvice too...

Firstly, I would like to make it clear that my steps or methodology are not conventional and I had to try this due to, majorly, financial constraints, and in a bid to try something out of the ordinary.

We all know how the inverter systems works as a proper setup which is:

Connect the PVs to a CC, then the CC to the batteries, the inverter to the batteries then house load to the inverter.

Again, for financial constraints and in bid to try sometin new, I decided to eliminate the PV by using a small automatic battery charger that outputs 12amp charge. (see bellow image of the charger and my bts inverter)

SETUP:
With the batteries (unconventional batteries) connected to the inverter, I then connected the charger to the AC output of the inverter.

With grid, the inverter is supplying the house and charging the batteries while the charger is also getting AC from the inverter and juicing the batteries at its own automated charge. Meaning, as the battery is getting full, it's charging amp is reduced from 12amp through till 1amp then cuts off (this charge has CC, CV, FC and TL charge stages whick I don't know what they stand for as they are not writing on the manual). Sometimes the inverter Cuts off charging first and other times the charger.

Without grid, the inverter sucks from the battery to feed the house and also feeds the charger which inturn feeds the batteries like a loop.

What I have gained doing this is more online time. Eg. If I was getting xy time without the charger, now I get an additional z time meaning I now get xyz live time.

I have only used this setup for precisely 9days and am still monitoring carefully to know if there will be any consequences... DISCLAIMER: PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME IF YOU CAN NOT MANAGE IT OR YOU ARE NOT AT HOME TO EXTINGUISH INCASE OF FIRE! .

While, I would appreciate gurus to please imagine this setup and let's know ur thoughts. Though GeorgeD1 and I have been discussing offline about this and he disagrees with me on some of my planned actions but because am on ground to monitor, I decided to give it a shoot... After all, it's all about DIY... Lol

[/i]

brother, our discussions have been very engaging and robust. you always come across as someone willing to try
whatever it takes to pull ahead in the quest for energy freedom. so, i'm not surprised you eventually went ahead to
implement your idea (despite my misgivings). however, as you can see from niyi, ceaser and others here, it might not
really be the best. all the same i understand why you had to do it.
going forward though, you have to think seriously around getting a separate cc and solar panels as an external
reliable charging source. there are quite a few members here disposing old panels and fairly used cc and you
might be able to land a good deal soon if you keep your eyes open.
once again, all the best.

Saipro:

- open-box Victron Quattro 48/5000/70 (5kVA 48VDC) - ₦780,000
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - ₦60,000
- Victron BMV 702 (with shunt and cables) - ₦100,000
- Fangpusun display (for inverters and chargers) - ₦20,000
- Midnite SPD 300V AC/DC surge protector - ₦60,000
- Midnite MNPV8HV-DISCO 4X disconnect/combiner box - ₦360,000
- 300W Yingli panels - ₦35,000 (used)

- MC4 connectors
- MC4 splitters/combiners
- Midnite 250 Classic KS

WhatsApp/Call O8O396l2l47

Still having 6 Yingli panels left. Amazing to sell the others so fast and be stuck with 6 units. Someone please take them off my hands

Saipro:

Still having 6 Yingli panels left. Amazing to sell the others so fast and be stuck with 6 units. Someone please take them off my hands

Oya give them to me nah!!!!

390w Risen solar panels now available, #75,000. Call/WhatsApp us on 08168986461.