please, anyone with used solar panels in usable condition for sale within lagos at reasonable/fair price should let me know. I want to use it for a 12volt system.

bbally:
please, anyone with used solar panels in usable condition for sale within lagos at reasonable/fair price should let me know. I want to use it for a 12volt system.

I have sir drop me a message sir with d best price u can not get out side

anjilgreat:


Okay, I'll do as you have advised. Thanks for your assistance.

Cc: odimbannamdi

Thanks for the mention, sis

ojeysky:


A few Sonoff R3 Basic still available for grabs. Turn your appliances to a smart device. Attached is a sample application with my AC. Each switch has a 2.2kw capacity

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Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a 48VDC contactor in lagos? I'm look for a cheap way to maximize/prioritize my solar use and want to use a relay-contactor combo.

I will set an under voltage relay to close when battery voltage is, at say, 50V and supply the coils of the contactor which will then close and supply AC to charge the batteries through the inverter, so as long as voltage is above 50V, relay(and therefore contactor) should be open and you are using the panels to power your house. This should mean that you don't need to be manually switching of AC power supply to maximise solar.

The relay is easy to find but the 48 VDC coil contactor is what I have been looking for, does anyone here know how I can find one?

I'm also open to suggestions on easier ways to achieve this.

BR

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netotse:
Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a 48VDC contactor in lagos? I'm look for a cheap way to maximize/prioritize my solar use and want to use a relay-contactor combo.

I will set an under voltage relay to close when battery voltage is, at say, 50V and supply the coils of the contactor which will then close and supply AC to charge the batteries through the inverter, so as long as voltage is above 50V, relay(and therefore contactor) should be open and you are using the panels to power your house. This should mean that you don't need to be manually switching of AC power supply to maximise solar.

The relay is easy to find but the 48 VDC coil contactor is what I have been looking for, does anyone here know how I can find one?

I'm also open to suggestions on easier ways to achieve this.

BR

Find a relay rated for your intended current range. You can always use a converter to supply the relay coil with appropriate DC voltage. I have a similar setup between my battery banks. The bank is 48v 200A but the relay coil is 12v. So, I got a step down to power the relay. It is working well with some limitations due to the fact that one of my battery banks is lithium.


Edit: I read what you wanted again. Why do you need a 48v relay? I have a similar setup to what you are trying to achieve, but mine is controlled by my home automation using homeassistant. The State of Charge (SOC) of my battery and the voltage is fed into the homeassistant through Victron BMV. Any voltage sensor can also do the same. The SOC and Voltage then trigger a normal ac/dc relay to supply AC to the inverter if I need extra juice especially on days my batteries were not filled during the day.

Thanks to y’all and God bless!

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UPDATE

Turns out the problem with my lithium set up was apparently the low input power from my pv array and/or the wiring.

Yesterday, I did two things.

1. I previously used 2.5mm Comester cable to run the PV to CC connection on 8s1p arrangement. So, I still used the same cable, but being a 3-strand wire, I used two strands to run the +ve terminal and the other strand for the -ve.

2. I left the battery unused after it dropped to 26.4v as usual, having fluctuated between 26.4 and 26.8v all day.

So when I put it back to charge, it crossed the 26v mark and into 27 to 29+. At a point, it reached 30v, which prompted me to change the bulk voltage to 29v. At these high voltage range, and with the sun very bright, the input current decreased to some milliamps (I think at this point the battery was fully charged). I reduced the bulk to 28.4V and float to 27.2V


At the end of the day, the battery rested at 26.8V.

@Ojesky hinted my panels may not be charging the battery enough. I think that's correct.

Many thanks to Ojesky and @EarthRealm for your inputs and suggestions.

I'd be leaving the settings at Bulk Voltage = 28.4V and Float at 27.2V. I hope these are not high.

Great news.
Whats the distance panel to cc?.
8s1p?.....u using a hybrid inverter?

Guess you mean absorb, most cc, bulk voltage isnt editable, only float and absorb

IYGEAL:
UPDATE

Turns out the problem with my lithium set up was apparently the low input power from my pv array and/or the wiring.

Yesterday, I did two things.

1. I previously used 2.5mm Comester cable to run the PV to CC connection on 8s1p arrangement. So, I still used the same cable, but being a 3-strand wire, I used two strands to run the +ve terminal and the other strand for the -ve.

2. I left the battery unused after it dropped to 26.4v as usual, having fluctuated between 26.4 and 26.8v all day.

So when I put it back to charge, it crossed the 26v mark and into 27 to 29+. At a point, it reached 30v, which prompted me to change the bulk voltage to 29v. At these high voltage range, and with the sun very bright, the input current decreased to some milliamps (I think at this point the battery was fully charged). I reduced the bulk to 28.4V and float to 27.2V


At the end of the day, the battery rested at 26.8V.

@Ojesky hinted my panels may not be charging the battery enough. I think that's correct.

Many thanks to Ojesky and @EarthRealm for your inputs and suggestions.

I'd be leaving the settings at Bulk Voltage = 28.4V and Float at 27.2V. I hope these are not high.

IYGEAL:
UPDATE

Turns out the problem with my lithium set up was apparently the low input power from my pv array and/or the wiring.

Yesterday, I did two things.

1. I previously used 2.5mm Comester cable to run the PV to CC connection on 8s1p arrangement. So, I still used the same cable, but being a 3-strand wire, I used two strands to run the +ve terminal and the other strand for the -ve.

2. I left the battery unused after it dropped to 26.4v as usual, having fluctuated between 26.4 and 26.8v all day.

So when I put it back to charge, it crossed the 26v mark and into 27 to 29+. At a point, it reached 30v, which prompted me to change the bulk voltage to 29v. At these high voltage range, and with the sun very bright, the input current decreased to some milliamps (I think at this point the battery was fully charged). I reduced the bulk to 28.4V and float to 27.2V


At the end of the day, the battery rested at 26.8V.

@Ojesky hinted my panels may not be charging the battery enough. I think that's correct.

Many thanks to Ojesky and @EarthRealm for your inputs and suggestions.

I'd be leaving the settings at Bulk Voltage = 28.4V and Float at 27.2V. I hope these are not high.

Folks quote my moniker wrongly so sorry if I don't respond. To your question, from all indication it seem you inverter does not have the float bug? Since that is the case I will set bulk at between 27.6 and .8 while float will remain at 27v.
When you make that settings check the inverter to confirm if it passes the 27v while charging

Please house, I need review on ipowerplus 3kva hybrid inverter.
Urgent please

abbeymighty:
Please house, I need review on ipowerplus 3kva hybrid inverter.
Urgent please

Good inverter been using mine for 2 yrs plus although I opted for a standalone mppt as the recommended 600w max mppt it came with is small.
Pros: low standby power usage mine is about 25 to 30w. Enough settings to satisfy your need like user low voltage disconnect, powering loads from battery or external mppt even when nepa is available and switching to nepa at certain voltage. About 25a [20 to 30] charging current better than most Indian inverters
Cons: it does not have equalization, fan noise at loads above 200w and a times enters float at about 86% charge a work around is to set your float voltage a lil higher. My parents 5kva ipowerplus is still going strong 5 years and counting and they are using the inbuilt mppt combined with an external Felicity mppt

Namzy:

Good inverter been using mine for 2 yrs plus although I opted for a standalone mppt as the recommended 600w max mppt it came with is small.
Pros: low standby power usage mine is about 25 to 30w. Enough settings to satisfy your need like user low voltage disconnect, powering loads from battery or external mppt even when nepa is available and switching to nepa at certain voltage. About 25a [20 to 30] charging current better than most Indian inverters
Cons: it does not have equalization, fan noise at loads above 200w and a times enters float at about 86% charge a work around is to set your float voltage a lil higher. My parents 5kva ipowerplus is still going strong 5 years and counting and they are using the inbuilt mppt combined with an external Felicity mppt

please what is the maximum solar panel that I can connect? I have 4 * 200ah battery.
Thanks

10mm dual core solar cable available, #950 per metre, Call/WhatsApp us on 08168986461

omotoda:


The max PV WATTS of panel is 1440watts.I don't think the present set up can cope with my night demand as I do not like to discharge my batteries beyond 50%.Adding additional 2 units of 260watss will only ensue my battery is charged fully and in shirt time.Even if the batteries are fully charged till 6pm,it can't take me overnight without going beyong my 50% DOD

Idk if this is still relevant, but are your night loads all energy efficient? If you can replace non energy efficient gadgets with energy efficient ones, it will really help.

I am running two sets of used100ahr/12v & a 150ahr all parallel system. Bought different times from different sellers.

My charging isn't very optimized but my load on them is so light that the batteries are still going strong 2yrs+

Note that during the dayi am not at home so daytime load is zero.

anjilgreat:


Lol! I wouldn't have tried it o!

I was thinking that there may be a DC equivalent of the plug. Thanks

Anderson connectors will work.

netotse:
Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a 48VDC contactor in lagos? I'm look for a cheap way to maximize/prioritize my solar use and want to use a relay-contactor combo.

I will set an under voltage relay to close when battery voltage is, at say, 50V and supply the coils of the contactor which will then close and supply AC to charge the batteries through the inverter, so as long as voltage is above 50V, relay(and therefore contactor) should be open and you are using the panels to power your house. This should mean that you don't need to be manually switching of AC power supply to maximise solar.

The relay is easy to find but the 48 VDC coil contactor is what I have been looking for, does anyone here know how I can find one?

I'm also open to suggestions on easier ways to achieve this.

BR

Would this beefy relay work? Might simplify your design a lot more. https://www.nairaland.com/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/492#74517252

IYGEAL:


Yea, I'm aware of the bolded. I did because I set it below that previously but it was still seemingly maxing at 26.4v. So I set it at 29.4v and stayed around to monitor it so that I can stop charging when full, but it was still the same.

Cell imbalance may be the issue but I also suspect the internal CC of the inverter. I got this Bank from a reliable source, a DIYer and he has it arranged with the BMS. I'm still starting this lithium journey but my arrangements are giving me serious headache.

At 26.4v, it appears to charge but no significant increase is witnessed. It can go 26.5 to 26.7 and back to 26.4v on no load.

Do you suppose 150W x 8 is not enough to charge the 100AH 24V Bank?

* Are the cells used for the pack new cells?
* DANGER - 23.7v as LVD cutoff for the pack isn't advisable. Lithium though more than Lead acid is usually forgivable of deep discharges, it still has undesirable deleterious effects on the life span.

I'll advice you try 24.4v LVD if you still insist on juicing it a little more on daily basis.
* As per the charging issues, it may be due to insufficient panels, in sufficient energy inflow from poorly insolated panels, poor and inefficient cabling/wire guage from panels to SCC, or the use of PWM SCC for a large LFP set up.

I have experienced the last issue before. The pack will not go beyond the 26.3v mark, at best 26.6v on the set up. The panels (1280w installed capacity) were apparently sufficient for the 24v/100ah battery but since the MPPT SCC shipping was slowed down, I made do with 60A PWM SCC. This problem is made worse if you have load on the inverter while the sun is charging. This means that you may be able to get by with a PWM arrangement if there's no load on the system so that all panel powers gets dumped directly into the LFP pack. Since I used PWM CC, I also noticed that the wires get hot (energy losses), that also disappeared with the change to MPPT.

The moment I changed the CC to MPPT and appropriately re-configured the panel, battery hits 28v by noon.

Also, while discharging, it discharges gradually from 26.4v but rapidly from around 25.4v to cut off at 23.7 (as I set it).

As per your lithium battery discharge curve, that looks like the normal discharge curve to me.

Assuming your battery was fully charged (above the 26.6v mark), you would have enjoyed the discharge curve (after sundown) stay a long time on the 26.4v to 26.0v. Rapid discharge phase on the curve should start at around 25.0v, depending on the load on the system.

Finally, since you suspect that the in-built CC of the inverter may not efficiently charge your pack, I will suggest you try using an external MPPT CC. You also have the added advantage of more flexibility to tweak things to favour your battery pack.

IYGEAL:
UPDATE

Turns out the problem with my lithium set up was apparently the low input power from my pv array and/or the wiring.

Just read to this point. Glad you got saved nuturing a terrible bias against LFP. Enjoy your pack.

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