Mist100:
Ran a scan on my EOD and got the values in the screen shot below. Guru in the house please help interpret. Plus this codes. P0498, P0496 and P1157. Thanks

Mist100:
Ran a scan on my EOD and got the values in the screen shot below. Guru in the house please help interpret. Plus this codes. P0498, P0496 and P1157. Thanks

thebigkendo:

Do you experience hard start or stalling after buying fuel?

Mist100:


wow.... yes

thebigkendo:


I suspect your evap canister purge valve is stuck open, Start troubleshooting by making sure the connector to EVAP Canister vent shut valve & EVAP Canister Purge valve are connected properly, If okay then let your rewire check if the 2 valves are working properly

Mist100:


Thanks so much. Can you please tell me were these are located so I can easily direct my mechanic to service or change the parts.

YouTube videos haven't been that helpful. Thanks

Mist100:


Thanks so much. Can you please tell me were these are located so I can easily direct my mechanic to service or change the parts.

YouTube videos haven't been that helpful. Thanks

thebigkendo:

i hope this helps you to identify the parts

autologic:

Don't waste your mechanic time and your money ,evap system is more complex and require special equipment than what ordinary mechanic in the street can handle .Find a recommended techie that is good in the art of troubleshoting evap system to do this for you before your start to waste money swaping parts that is not faulty.

Mist100:


overly grateful. will have then do a check tomorrow.

thebigkendo:


Oga atleast "ordinary rewire in the street" can test the valves/solenoid to confirm if they are working if okay then he goes on to "techie that is good in the art of troubleshoting evap system" for vacumn/pressure test.
It might just be a simple case of the 2P connector not connected properly

autologic:

If u must know I will enlight u .
evap is one most complicated system to troubleshoot out of vehicle emission system cos lot of effort,dedicated tool ,skill and the knowledge is required.

To troubleshoot evap in a simplify professional method ,u need to have the following the
1.manufacture evap routing diagram for that particular car ,
2.Handheld vacuum pump
3.scan tool that can do evap bidirectional control and 4.smoke machine .
5.And finally the knowledge of your car manufacturer evap design implementation.

That your so -called ordinary rewire in the street can click evap solenoid but doesn't mean the solenoid is OK cos the solenoid can be clicking and not still able to perform its main function of opening and closing .To confirm if evap solenoid is OK ,at least u must make use of a bidirectional scanner and vacuum pump .
Bidirectional scanner will be used to actuate the solenoids and vacuum pump will confirm the integrity of solenoid.

Also ,I agree with u that the issue can as simple as 2p connector not well inserted but what about if it is confirmed that it is OK how do u go about the next troubleshooting stage if u are not well equipped .

thebigkendo:


Why not just replace the dang thing? It's pretty easy and not expensive to buy.

EVAP system on a 7th Gen honda accord is not that complex



Bros all this things you are saying are stories. You are not helping,I don't know why you assumed the worst case scenario.. If OP had an EVAP leak problem like P0442 P0443 P0455 P0456 P0547 or P0497 with no other Code, i will understand why you need to bring out all the guns with your bidirectional scanner and what not.
When troubleshooting a system i start by eliminating the simpler and basic elements in this case:solenoids, hence why i said he should check connectors(simpler)after that check the solenoids, basically by "clicking" if everything is fine he can then move on to more complex scenario like solenoid not operating fully ie opening or closing completely.




Aside clicking, integrity of the solenoid can also be checked measuring the resistance of the coils
For EVAP canister purge valve: resistance should be about 33 ohms
EVAP Canister vent shut valve: Resistance should be between 25 - 30 ohms




How about if it is Just the 2P conector not connected properly or the solenoid not clicking at all. When troubleshooting you don't just jump to the hardest possible fault.
If Op checks all the basic and no way he can then come to autologic workshop for "advanced vacuum test with bidirectional scanner"

thebigkendo:


EVAP system on a 7th Gen honda accord is not that complex



Bros all this things you are saying are stories. You are not helping,I don't know why you assumed the worst case scenario.. If OP had an EVAP leak problem like P0442 P0443 P0455 P0456 P0547 or P0497 with no other Code, i will understand why you need to bring out all the guns with your bidirectional scanner and what not.
When troubleshooting a system i start by eliminating the simpler and basic elements in this case:solenoids, hence why i said he should check connectors(simpler)after that check the solenoids, basically by "clicking" if everything is fine he can then move on to more complex scenario like solenoid not operating fully ie opening or closing completely.




Aside clicking, integrity of the solenoid can also be checked measuring the resistance of the coils
For EVAP canister purge valve: resistance should be about 33 ohms
EVAP Canister vent shut valve: Resistance should be between 25 - 30 ohms




How about if it is Just the 2P conector not connected properly or the solenoid not clicking at all. When troubleshooting you don't just jump to the hardest possible fault.
If Op checks all the basic and no way he can then come to autologic workshop for "advanced vacuum test with bidirectional scanner"