UNIVERSITY OF PATTERN DRAFTING


LESSON 1; DRAFTING THE PENCIL SKIRT PATTERN
THIS TUTORIAL IS A TEENY-WEENY PART OF OUR ONLINE COURSE IN DRAFTING THE BASIC PATTERN SET WHICH INCLUDES OTHER TOPICS LIKE
- TAKING ACCURATE MEASUREMENT AND FREE MEASUREMENT CHART
- FRONT BODICE DRAFT
- BACK BODICE DRAFT
- SKIRT DRAFT (FRONT AND BACK)
- BASIC SLEEVE DRAFT (including armhole depth size chart)
- TROUSER DRAFT

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED

1. WAIST CIRCUMFRENCE; Measure the circumference of your body at your navel. This measurement should be taken with your abdomen relaxed.

2. HIP CIRCUMFRENCE; Measure the widest area of your hip with the tape rule parallel to the floor.

3. DESIRED LENGTH OF YOUR PENCIL SKIRT; Measure vertically from your navel to the point on your knee or calf where you want the skirt to stop.

NB; for this project our measurements include;
Waist circumference= 28inches
Hip circumference= 40 inches
Skirt length= 22 inches

CALCULATIONS REQUIRED TO DRAFT PATTERN

4. WAIST CIRCUMFRENCE /4
Using our above sample measurements, we should have 28/4 = 7inches
5. HIP CIRCUMFRENCE/4
We should have 40/4 = 10 Inches

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM

A-C = D-F = G-I = Desired length of skirt
A-D = D-G = B-E = E-H = C-F = F-I = (hip circumference/4) + ¼ inches ease
Dart placement for back pattern;
A-J = (waist circumference/4) + ¼ inches ease + 2 inches dart intake.
{using the sample measurement, we should have ; (28/4) + ¼ + 2
= 7+ ¼ + 2
= 9 ¼

A-K = Dart placement; this is the measurement of the centre back waist to the side princess line or the first leg of the dart.
{ using our ssample measurement, our dart placement would be 3 ½ inches.}

K-M = N-P = Dart intake : This is the distance between the two legs of the dart. Dart intake should be 1 inch.

L and O are the centre points of the darts. Thus, K-L = L-M = N-O = O-P = ½ inch


Length of dart for back pattern;
L-Q = 0- R = D-S = Length of dart for back pattern. The length of the dart for the back should be between 5 ½ to 6 inches depending on whether the person is petite, medium or large.
{ using our sample measurement, we shall use 5 ½ as the length of our back dart}.

Distance between the two darts at the back:
The distance between the two darts should be 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inches
Thus , M-N = 1 ¼ inches.

HIPLINE (BEH) ;
The hipline is horizontal line which is 7 inches away from the waist line (ADG).

Pencilling your skirt;
To pencil your skirt, use (hip circumference/4) – 1 ¼
{thus, using our sample measurement, the with of the base of our skirt should be ( 40/4) – 1 ¼
= 10 – 1 ¼
= 8 ¾ inches

Thus , measure and mark 8 ¾ inches rightwards from point C along the CFI horizontal line and name the point F^
Then , from point E measure and mark ¾ inches southwards along the DEF vertical line . connect this new point to point F^ using a slightly curved diagonal line.

how to sew pencil skirt / how to sew ankara skirt / drafting the pattern for your pencil skirt - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ7kOEbNews&t=22s&spfreload=10