I doubt this is considered normal operating rpm at idle.  A valve job has been done, cooling redone and plugs changed till this came to my attention.  There is a very faint hesitation that can barely be notice but I believe it's either a MAF going bad or the nature of a 90 degrees V6.  It's like once in 20 minutes but barely noticeable.  Vehicle accelerates linearly with no hesitation and also picks up speed accordingly.  It is 100% stock.

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/a956c685.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/eea28258.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/e655a024.jpg

The vehicle is an AllroadQuat2.7v618 with a BEL_SR_2671_187_MPI_Bosch with tiptronic.  I am not too conversant with the Motronic 7.1 management system so, I can't figure out how to raise the engine speed.  I am hoping it is not a faulty throttle body or something similar because $7000 later, the vehicle has not covered 2000 miles and the owner and I are having to fix the entire vehicle ourselves. 

I would also appreciate how to test for a faulty camshaft positioning sensor on this vehicle.  It bent an intake valve rod at more than 60 degree angle.

Thanks a lot!

Fhemmmy:

What was the post about?
Sometimes, it is the spambot that delete posts so dont take it personal

It is about an engine running too low at idle. I'm not too familiar with the engine itself. I don't know if it's normal. It's a Bosch Motronic Me 7.1.

I guess I was filtered because I attached three links from Photobucket.

I will draft another and repost editing the topic.

Thanks.

I doubt this is considered normal operating rpm at idle. A valve job has been done, cooling redone and plugs changed till this came to my attention. There is a very faint hesitation that can barely be notice but I believe it's either a MAF going bad or the nature of a 90 degrees V6. It's like once in 20 minutes but barely noticeable. Vehicle accelerates linearly with no hesitation and also picks up speed accordingly. It is 100% stock.

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/a956c685.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/eea28258.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/e655a024.jpg

The vehicle is an AllroadQuat2.7v618 with a BEL_SR_2671_187_MPI_Bosch with tiptronic. I am not too conversant with the Motronic 7.1 management system so, I can't figure out how to raise the engine speed. I am hoping it is not a faulty throttle body or something similar because $7000 later, the vehicle has not covered 2000 miles and the owner and I are having to fix the entire vehicle ourselves.

I would also appreciate how to test for a faulty camshaft positioning sensor on this vehicle. It bent an intake valve rod at more than 60 degree angle.

Thanks a lot!

it looks to be only 100 or 200 rpm too high, I've heard that its a common problem for the bosch MAF's to go bad on these, not totally failing but sending wrong information, a scan wont pick it up either, so maybe changing it might make a difference,

Operation:

it looks to be only 100 or 200 rpm too high, I've heard that its a common problem for the bosch MAF's to go bad on these, not totally failing but sending wrong information, a scan wont pick it up either, so maybe changing it might make a difference,

You are wrong Operation. This in my opinion is too low. I can't conclude it to be about right. If too low, fuel wouldn't burn right and would affect the cylinder walls.

A bad MAF would give you an erratic idle. Idle may take a plunge and give you engine vibration momentarily and return to normal idle. Vehicle runs extremely smooth in both ildle and acceleration. Engine doesn't bump (engine dropping rpm slightly inbetween gear changes). The MAF is also in the list of things to be replaced and camshaft sensor because it bent a valve rod and I can't think of any reason why besides a camshaft position sensor and maybe a prior overheating by the previous owner.

I think you may be looking straight at your problem, but I may be wrong.

A battery is ~12v and ~14 when running yours is just a little under 14, go get battery check at autozone/walmart first.

My jeep was doing the same thing till battery started running low. When you worked on car your battery was disconnected for a couple of days, now needs to be recharged fully. Testing will be the cheapest and easiest thing to do now before looking for vaccum leaks.


Scan for DTC, idle speed is normal btw 600-800.

you should check with a dealer what the normal idle rpm should be, ive checked on a few forums and they reckon its around 800 i read somewhere that there is a screw on the tb that you can use to adjust it, its been raining so i haven't checked on mine. well if there is only a really minor problem that you feel occasionally and the car is running smoothly otherwise, is there really much point spending all that time and money on a car that over 10 years old? even if it is amazing!!!

sultaan:

I think you may be looking straight at your problem, but I may be wrong.

A battery is ~12v and ~14 when running yours is just a little under 14, go get battery check at autozone/walmart first.

My jeep was doing the same thing till battery started running low. When you worked on car your battery was disconnected for a couple of days, now needs to be recharged fully. Testing will be the cheapest and easiest thing to do now before looking for vaccum leaks.


Scan for DTC, idle speed is normal btw 600-800.

Sultaan,


The battery was replaced and it was another experience entirely. It is way too tight to work on (bay). On the flip side of the coin, you might be right because I don't know what is put there. It isn't my vehicle.

Very strong point indeed. I can't reason what you have said but I will learn. However, batteery specification will be compared to OEM befor the grace period is over for return.

Operation:

you should check with a dealer what the normal idle rpm should be, ive checked on a few forums and they reckon its around 800 i read somewhere that there is a screw on the tb that you can use to adjust it, its been raining so i haven't checked on mine. well if there is only a really minor problem that you feel occasionally and the car is running smoothly otherwise, is there really much point spending all that time and money on a car that over 10 years old? even if it is amazing!!!

I believe the car is 6 years old, however I have to question your maintenance culture. If you'd dump so much money on a new vehicle, what makes the older less justifiable? Snob appeal?! That is the norm amongst Nigerians here. Actually worse, they buy vehicles they can't maintain and expect to wish their maintenance activities away. Think otherwise and you'll always have money in your account instead of some corporation statistically defining and predicting you.

If you know what you have Operation, you wouldn't treat it as an Asian product. The vehicle is an S4 but neutered from its original ECU for comfort orientation thus making its natural territory on road and secondard on a close circuit. It's a plenty fine piece of engineering for the nature of which it was sold. There are some cars you can toss at the snap of choice.

You are on course now at 800 than your last reply. I assumed that the engine speed could be raised. I have a Benz background, so I'm not familiar with Audi's.


-----

The battery will be examined -- one can't trust a sales person. Thanks.

Don't adjust the speed it is computer controlled.
Usual culprits for idle blip is vaccum leak, ignition and battery(funny thing happen when batery is low)

Vaccum leak will cause persistent drop in idle rpm, ignition will be a drop at regular interval so you'll have to pull plugs(use oe type) and look for unusal burns{it would have given a DTC). So its narrowed down to battery and vaccum.If the valve job was done right.

A wild card here 
Bent valve is usually caused by failed timming(so check your timming) .Piston running into open valve should not be caused by too much boost, there is a pressure release system in place.

The best idea it to carry a bag of cash and that "old car" to a reputable Audi dealer(pray for mercy).

Camshaft and cranshaft will be change when car dies, or throw a code

sultaan:

Don't adjust the speed it is computer controlled.
Usual culprits for idle blip is vaccum leak, ignition and battery(funny thing happen when batery is low)

Vaccum leak will cause persistent drop in idle rpm, ignition will be a drop at regular interval so you'll have to pull plugs(use oe type) and look for unusal burns{it would have given a DTC). So its narrowed down to battery and vaccum.If the valve job was done right.

A wild card here 
Bent valve is usually caused by failed timming(so check your timming) .Piston running into open valve should not be caused by too much boost, there is a pressure release system in place.

The best idea it to carry a bag of cash and that "old car" to a reputable Audi dealer(pray for mercy).

Camshaft and cranshaft will be change when car dies, or throw a code

Thanks Sultaan,


I'll convey the message as said. I referred to camshaft positioning sensor and not camshaft. A faulty camshaft positioning sensor will bend a valve. The service of the bent valve was done two years ago but a one-way trip cannot be made without a misfire afterwards. As a matter of fact, this is the first time in two years that this vehicle has idled for 20 minutes without a misfire. It is the first time that it's been on the freeway without a misfire or CEL. The last time, it was towed home.

Everything in the car has been out of specs, broken connectors and cooling system messed up. I believe the car overheated in the time past. I also want to suspect that the timing is wrong as well since many other things were wrong too.

One thing you pointed out -- the timing. It is after this service all this started. Well , , I guess the rest has to go to a professional.


Many thanks!

where is Siena O!,

@ Trac, may I suggest you rename the subject as " Engine running low on Audi , " .

we have an Audi guru in the house by name Siena,

Just as you have become my MB guru on my thread, thanks

kuntash:

where is Siena O!,

@ Trac, may I suggest you rename the subject as " Engine running low on Audi , " .

we have an Audi guru in the house by name Siena,

Just as you have become my MB guru on my thread, thanks

Ok, I'll change the heading.

Siena: I wonder how I ever missed this?! An old thread, but we learn a new thing everyday.

Trac, what ended up being the problem with the car?

It was posted in Autos and did not know of Car-Talk. It was my [very] first post NL's bot seized the first thread shortly after

Siena, you mayn't believe it. The plugs! The approach of deductive service was crucial to me because I wanted to know what the root of the problem was. Though expensive and time consuming, it was worth it. So, the plugs would be the reference origin and proceed from there as time (weeks). The plugs were not what Audi stated in the Factory Operation Manual and the project halted till the NGK specified plugs were gotten. Though inconvenient (weekend and the dealership was closed), the owner went "everywhere" till he found the plugs specifically instructed. I met the owner months later and told me the problem never existed after the last meet-up. No camshaft sensor was disturbed/replaced.

The vehicle would quiver and if the engine isn't killed sooner than it could ultimately tolerate, a valve could bend. People think I take things excessively serious but the "composition" of the vehicle demands one specification. Though the plugs generically were alike, worked for a months but the ignition system was unhappy with it. This is probably why the previous owner got rid of it.

The slight rough (very faint) irregularity in the idle when all was corrected would have been from the fermented fuel.