1.1.8fiber dish2.the surface has pel and i can see the papper covering the main dish.pls help how much is d papper and light grey paint to buy.

@RAY1251,
you might have to remove the entire surface covering and replace with another one,, this involves some technical expertise , handling the application of aluminum foil,, this process requires initial application of a mixture of resin and catalyst with accelerator,, after the foiling then follows the application of paint,, grey is the best,,

Can't i just paint it ,because currently iam broke

it's better you re-foil not to have to duplicate effort,, the better the foiling the better the signal reception, ? i suggest you wait until you are cashed up,

@ geometry
Thank you to have and still share you expérience.
I think I.P. Klaus Schumacher build the first stair and you build the second one.
Hope we will end up building more stairs.

Long live DIY.

Please, if I want to kill only birds at the top of clark belt, can I choise a big F/D ratio (0.6 or more) when manifaturing my dish?

For my dish will not point at a bird close to the ground hence -I think- less ground noise interférence and better illumination by the bird.

Regards

@bamboutos,
you are so poetic,, lol !,
1]. well, the trick is this, when you are running away from ground noise,. you choose a design that tends to aim your bird at a seemingly indirect targeting, and this is achieved by employing off-set style of design. i will not recommend an F/D ratio greater than 0.43 for a prime focusing dish, because of the associated magnification of errors that tend to abound during mold construction, it is achievable, but requires tremendous expertise.!!! now a way out is when you are designing a dish to have larger F/D ratio, you first of all go for a mother mold of about double the size of your determined size and about half the F/D ratio of the it. then you describe/derive the off-set mold from it, to cast your off-set dish; by this ; your resulting DISH WOULD HAVE EVERYTHING IN COMMON WITH THE MOTHER EXCEPT IN SIZE, and its targeting angle is off-set, thus, you have a dish that looks 'slightly above the elevation angle' of your BIRD, hence, escaping noise from the ground, and having larger FD ratio. (so, I say, the dish orientation SHIES away from the ground noise),

2]. then, what are you looking for getting BIRDS away from CLARKE'S BELT, , lol ! to my knowledge, all birds, for TV, are arranged on this imaginary line, clarke's belt for TVRO operation to obtain geostationary positions and all that. any birds (above) or below CLARK belt are meant for other communication purposes, like spying mapping and tracking stuff,, lol ! ok ? then, they have relative movement when desired just like when you move your camera lense for better image,

plz, if I have not answered your question, let me know,

@ geometry

Thanks for the quick reply.

1).If I understand very well, I've to go for off-set dish when running away from ground noise.
2).No I'm not looking for birds away from CLARKE'S BELT. I was instead talking (looking ) for BIRDS that are seen when the dish elevation is the highest-Hence away from ground noise-. For example, Eutelsat 7A@ 7°E has almost the highest elevation from my town and Nile sat has a fairly high elevation too.
3).I guess that you have compiled so much informations and experiments on parabolics antenna.

I'm fairly goo in mathematics.

I'll ask other questions as soon as possible.

Regards

@bamboutos,

RUNNING AWAY FROM GROUND NOISE, ?. , YES ! OFF-SET DISH IS THE BEST ?

geometry:

@bamboutos,

RUNNING AWAY FROM GROUND NOISE, ?. , YES ! OFF-SET DISH IS THE BEST ?

Thank you

Regards

@geometry please how many gallons of resin did you use for your 5.5 m dish and have you been able to motorise it? i suspect u might use close to a drum of resin for that dish.

@Iron2011,

Honestly, I can not quote exact quantity of materials I used for that "MONSTER" pardon my language, because it was the first and the last of it I fabricated, but its not difficult to figure out, I will try and make a rough calculation from what material quantity I expended on other sizes and then deduce a figure for it,, that is about how you predict what quantity of material needed for your new challenge in the field of fabrication , putting some other little variations in detail into consideration,

please , you have to be a little patient with me on this,, better still, if we have somebody who has fabricated any sizes before, obtain the details and set for evaluation in surface area, i will suggest, what ever you get multiply by a factor of 1.5. , this goes for further [thickness] reinforcement and metallic frame concealment, , the same i suggest for fiber matte as well,

@Iron2011'

No, I did not motorized it ,

I did not, motorize it ,

@ geometry thank you very much for all your good works.

Geiron long time no see.

I am of the opinion that we should progress in our bids to reject frustrations in the face of oppression presented to us by the so called SATELLITE TV PROGRAM providers and thwart the objectives & aims of the collaboration of our leaders with these so called satellite providers,....A lot of us aim the ''birds'' many ventured into other diverse side of this objective,.. (software aspect).. but I have the feelings that little has been done to put into practice the lesson learned so far to improve the main ingredient of our practice... building super active launchers 'DISHES' and , as for me, I expected improvements over what we have had for too long...BUD is our sole and primary weapon in this arena, and yet we did not think about how to summon the obstacles we face all along,.. come to think of it,.. the transportation issue remained a burden b4 i left home,.. have we discussed how do we get BUD petallised ?... no... LADIES AND 'GENTLEMEN'... LET US DISCUSS PETALLISING THE BUD, [ BIG UGLY DISH ] ...I wanna see who is gonna belt the cat... I am waiting..

THE FOLLOWINGS ARE THE PROBLEMS I THINK WE NEED TO ADDRESS;

-Improving an average BUD gain per surface area
-Eliminating need for re-foiling
-Can BUD assume a better appearance,?(aesthetic) .. so its name could be changed ,.. lol !

If anybody thinks there are more suggestions on this issue, should plz, bring them forth for discussion...

Thank you all...

in proving = improving ,.. sorry for the earlier typographical error ...

hello freinds
i need to make a deep dish sized 1.8-2m diameter for C-band using.
i have no equivpent for melting or mold...
i must make it by fastening peice of a supposed 6 -part dish.
i need the math teory.
my email
andysaeed@yahoo.com

Hello, @ Andysaeed,
you don't need any furnace (equipment) for molding, try and read through the previous threads and you will see that all needed were already discussed, there could be a few itches that you might need to untwined, fine, but then, you must have learnt one or two things along the line,...feel free to ask any forms of question... reading through the thread would enable you see what and what problems individuals like you have encountered while trailing same adventure,... it is interesting, just take a little time to go through a few lines and the whole idea is yours... best of luck !!!
I am pretty sure the whole house is waiting to welcome your outcomes..

tanx so much for kindness.
first question i have.is about depth of dish.(x)
for using c baND AND KU BAND..whats the diffrent?.
can we use a dish with c band-size for ku-band using?

andysaeed: tanx so much for kindness.
first question i have.is about depth of dish.(x)
for using c baND AND KU BAND..whats the diffrent?.
can we use a dish with c band-size for ku-band using?

@andysaeed,
the depth is one of the critical factors that have influence on the dish performance based on signals, to be received, orientations... it takes its description from a factor called F/D ratio...Ku-Band is most sensitive to this factor, as per your question,..over time , dish designers have been able to come to a mid point for both Ku and C bands F/D ratio... the factor adopted being F/D = 0.4, this value is most favorable for both bands. this is also the factor that describes the dish depth and shallowness... you could, as a matter of fact, size up your dish depth before fabrication.
but in actual fact, a shallower dish is more favorable to KU BAND than C-band.
you can conveniently use a dish meant for C-band for Ku-band, but not vice-versa..
I hope I am able to answer your question to some extent.

i have just seen your dish pictures.thats fantastic!
i have some q.its seems that you have mixed cement and sand and cnstructed like hill(my english is not good enugh)
.after that.i didnt understand?whats on the cement?>is it platstic or metal?
what must be kind of dish?metal?is it possible to receive the signals with plastic dish or something else?.please clarify dependecy of the kind of dish or its paint

is it right ?
upper layer is resin
secend layer is fibber mate
and inner layer is resin
is it right ?

hi friends pl may want somebody anwser me this:
how many layers fiber glass must be appleyd for 2meter dish...

andysaeed: hi friends pl may want somebody anwser me this:
how many layers fiber glass must be appleyd for 2meter dish...

Whatever is the size of your dish, you could make it any numbers of layer,.. what is of most paramount importance is the thickness of the fiber matte used and how many laminates you want, which is a function of your intended design, for instance, if you wish to have your reflector embedded in the layers of matte. Also, it should be established that the mould you are casting on has a proven integrity of effectiveness. so that you wont have to invest on a vague application. bare in mind the assumed weight of your dish, and the desired strength to withstand wind load after installation,
let me know if there is something else you wish to know... sorry for the late response,.. I replied your mail.

Thanks for the reply., I have some pictures of the work done as soon as I put them on the site. Maybe you can help me. Unfortunately I still obscure.
Now there are three questions in my mind.
A: About the sticking layer on the mold surface. First, we put a layer of resin on the mold surface and then put fiber Mtte and then Put the resin for second time on the fibber.. Means that the fiber is placed between two layers of resin. Did I understand correctly?
(B). Concern about the number of layers is still not resolved to me. Actually more expensive for two layer is the one of reason, . but principal reason is that I doubt whether it is sutable just one layer for firm and accuarcy of the pipe that holding the lnb.it means may be one layer will not be so firm than can take the press and weight of the pipes and lnb .and i dont want put holder pipes on the back of the dish like you cos i designed a 1.6 m sized dish.!
c.For example, if I want to put three layer of fibber do I need three times of resin?
tanx...

here is the picture of fibber matte to know its thickness

andysaeed: Thanks for the reply., I have some pictures of the work done as soon as I put them on the site. Maybe you can help me. Unfortunately I still obscure.
Now there are three questions in my mind.
A: About the sticking layer on the mold surface. First, we put a layer of resin on the mold surface and then put fiber Mtte and then Put the resin for second time on the fibber.. Means that the fiber is placed between two layers of resin. Did I understand correctly?
(B). Concern about the number of layers is still not resolved to me. Actually more expensive for two layer is the one of reason, . but principal reason is that I doubt whether it is sutable just one layer for firm and accuarcy of the pipe that holding the lnb.it means may be one layer will not be so firm than can take the press and weight of the pipes and lnb .and i dont want put holder pipes on the back of the dish like you cos i designed a 1.6 m sized dish.!
c.For example, if I want to put three layer of fibber do I need three times of resin?
tanx...

IF I AM NOT MISTAKING, THE MATTE TYPE YOU ARE HOLDING IS 450g ''GRADE'', sorry I forgot name for its type but, I am pretty sure its not ''emosion'', BUT ALL TYPES OF MATTE ARE GOOD FOR THE JOB. I ADVISE, IF YOU ARE GOING FOR MULTI-LAYER APPLICATION, LOOK FOR 300g GRADE, RIGHT NOW, LETS HOLD ON TO WHAT YOU HAVE. THE 450g FIBER MATTE. I PRESUME YOU ARE CASTING ON A CONCRETE MOULD,. RIGHT ?!... YOU NEED A FIRST RESIN COATING OF RESIN, THAT CONTAINS NO ''CATALYST'' AND ''ACCELERATOR'' THIS WILL BE THE BASE FOR YOUR LAYER OF ALUMINUM FOIL ''REFLECTOR''...IT WILL HOLD THE FOIL TO THE MOULD WHILE YOU SPREAD THE LAYER OF MATTE ONTO IT, THEN YOU APPLY RESIN LACED WITH CATALYST AND ACCELERATOR ON THE LAID MATTE AND WAIT FOR CURING... WITH THE TYPE OF MATTE YOU ARE HOLDING IN THE PICTURE, ONE LAYER , THAT IS; ONE COATING IS ENOUGH. THEN YOU CAN PLACE YOUR STEEL FRAME AND CUT STRIPS OF MATTE THAT COVER THE FRAMES, RIBS, THEN APPLY MIXTURE OF RESIN, CATALYST AND ACCELERATOR ON THE MATTE STRIPS TO HOLD DOWN THE STEEL FRAMES AND ALLOW FOR CURING... THE FIRST LAYER OF RESIN THAT STANDS BETWEEN THE MOULD AND THE ALUMINUM FOIL SERVES AS THE SEPARATOR OF YOUR CAST DISH FROM THE MOULD,.. THE DISH REMOVES FROM THE MOULD WITHOUT STICKING TO IT, AFTER CURING,... THEN , THIS IS WHERE YOU WITNESS THE FIRST BEAUTY OF YOUR HANDWORK, THE NEXT IS CONFIRMING THE EFFICIENCY OF YOUR DISH , WHICH IS A FUNCTION OF THE MOULD... THIS RESULT YOU OBTAIN BY TESTING YOU PRODUCTION,.. THE DISH.

geometry:

I PRESUME YOU ARE CASTING ON A CONCRETE MOULD,. RIGHT ?!... YOU NEED A FIRST RESIN COATING OF RESIN, THAT CONTAINS NO ''CATALYST'' AND ''ACCELERATOR'' THIS WILL BE THE BASE FOR YOUR LAYER OF ALUMINUM FOIL ''REFLECTOR''....

yes i use concrete.
idont know as you said Foil...whats a foil? do i need some thing execpt fibber matte and other 3 compnent ...
when i bouyght them i see just 3 component
resing 5 kg
fibber 1kg
alittle of catalizur(if im not wrong)
here the pictures...
up is maybe catalizor..
down is resing( may be costumer have mixed with accelerator..i dont know)

andysaeed:
yes i use concrete.
idont know as you said Foil...whats a foil? do i need some thing execpt fibber matte and other 3 compnent ...
when i bouyght them i see just 3 component
resing 5 kg
fibber 1kg
alittle of catalizur(if im not wrong)
here the pictures...
up is maybe catalizor..
down is resing( may be costumer have mixed with accelerator..i dont know)

'' FOIL'' is the aluminum thin layer of metal that reflects the on coming electromagnetic waves ''signals'' form the outer spaces. without the foil , you dish is as good as a perforated basket intended to contain water. Aluminum foil is sold in the market as cooking foil, the ''flour sellers, for baking (bread&cake are selling this in AGEGE market.
As for the posted pix; what you have on top is CATALYST, the one at the bottom in a bigger container with purple color is ACCELERATOR, in some cases the manufacturing companies have the accelerator and resin premixed so that all what you have to do is add catalyst to initiate the chemical reaction, ''CURING'' if what you have in the bigger plastic bottle is a mixture of resin and catalyst, it would have the density of resin which is fairly denser, ''thicker'' viscous. but if it is a lighter liquid with purple color, it means what you have is only accelerator. Resin in its pure forms come in slightly frosted whitish appearance, and sometimes it assumes the color of vegetable oil, ''ORORO''... clear, but denser, ''thicker'' than all other liquid components involved.

HINT;
***THE FIBER MATTE YOU HAVE IN THE PICTURE IS 450G GRADE, I PRESUME THIS MEANS THE WEIGHT ONE METER LENGTH OF THIS MATERIAL WEIGHS.***

geometry:

HINT;
***THE FIBER MATTE YOU HAVE IN THE PICTURE IS 450G GRADE, I PRESUME THIS MEANS THE WEIGHT ONE METER LENGTH OF THIS MATERIAL WEIGHS.***

tanx so much my friend.i will post more picture for useness of others.yess that is 1kilogram that could be 2*1 meter.as seller said me...tanx agian

ok...i bought foil for work.
is it just for separeting the dish (fiber) form mould? or it must be sticked at dish?