₦airaland Forum

Thank you. Please what size cable do I need from the inverter to the battery? AI is telling me that I need a 20mm cable for a 4000w inverter.

bkuranga:
That's weird.
I'm suspecting over temperature, but if it's that. There should be a fault code.


But if it's just going off, it might be a lose connection from battery to inverter.
From my experience, this has happened before.

Check that the cables are tightly connected.

bkuranga:
Inverter not giving any error/fault code?

no error code.

Guys I changed my inverter to Lvtopsun 4000w inverter yesterday and the inverter has been randomly turning itself off and on. What could be the likely cause? Battery voltage is not low.

Still available?

adibo:
I will be looking to sell my Mercury 2.4kva 24v inverter. It is a true 2.4kva inverter as I have hit 2.3kwh on the inverter when using my induction cooker at 2100w, along with my fridge and TV at the same time. It also accepts up to 3000w solar panels. Anyone who buys will enjoy it, as it is what I am currently using.

Also, looking to sell my 8kwh 24v lithium battery from Valto, fearfully used for just about a month, just 12 cycle count, so, basically still brand new and working perfectly

Reasons for selling: The inverter and battery are both in perfect working condition but I want to upgrade my entire system to a higher one in order to accommodate for an air conditioner, two induction cookers, TV and fridge, so I am upgrading to a 48v system. Hit me up if interested. 08065803357

You guys are over estimating his power needs please. There is no way he will be charging 100 phones at a time. Even if he is charging at full capacity the phones won't all start charging at the same time so some will already be full. A 2.5kva inverter is more than enough and I think his best option will be a mobile power station that can support at least 2000W solar input.

bassdow:
it's getting to a time I would stop suggestion against certain things. if they don't wanna read, it's their headAche. Constantly littering the thread with rePititive comments isn't helping the thread content quality wise.
In sanner forums, even asking a question already handled is frowned upon and could cost your account or said thread / comment closed.

Either way, OP doesn't have 100 phones to charge. OP is obviously trying to guess what they think is possible. Even if you end up charging 100 phones a day, chances are 30% of them would rarely occur simultaneously

just to answer questions dey tire you but you want other people to keep using their money to buy batteries for capacity testing every 3 months. Lmao

Gshems:
Baba no bẹ fight. He is not discrediting anyone. This is a forum, everyone has the right to his or her opinion

he could have stopped at the first paragraph.

bassdow:
Special Announcement To those who do capacity TESTings,

You guys should not just TEST any Lithium Battery Brand once and conclude they are Good. Randomly go back every once in a while and check they're still what they CLAIM they are.

Nothing stops anyOne of them from initially starting with good/average cells and capacity, and later change after winning over customer's confidence.

That's if una dey HONEST to begin with and that it's not actually the Manufactuerers / Builders doing those TESTings / Sponsoring them

Nobody is stopping you from conducting your own independent testing. Nobody owes you nothing! The guy I know here that tests capacity does so on his own dime but see how you are talking as if you employed them.

adimx:
Is your inverter setup 12v or 24v system?

24v

durodee:
I know the guy don sell the CC but for record purposes the CC would have worked well.
CCs can tolerate over panelling but not overvoltage.
So, what the CC does is take the maximum of 1650w @24v and ignored the rest. Many people on this forum recognised that and overpanel for cloudy days where production may be severely affected.

To determine the expected daily generation of the panels, a factor of 0.7 (inefficiency factor, wiring, distance, cloud cover etc) X total panels X hours of insolation.
2400w X 0.7= 1680w well within the range of the 1650w @24v.

Benefit? He would have been making full use of his money without extra expenditure.

There is absolutely certainty that four panels will be giving him about 1200w/h only

loooool this is so spot on. I have a similar setup
60A Felicity CC, 4 PCs of 525w bifacial panels and I can't get beyond 1200w/h. At some point I was thinking my panels were fake. 😀

Good evening guys,
I have been looking for a good inverter and I am considering the growatt SPF ES 6000 because on paper it looks like an unbelievable deal but it's not be available everywhere I check. Has it been phased out by Growatt or the demand is too high?

bassdow:
same suggestion given to the person you quoted applies to you also.

Since your desire is to later go for higher capacity; would suggest you buy them now and remove the smaller ones. rather than mixing 4pcs of 715w solar panels with 3pcs of 475w solar panels, you either OPTION A: use just 4pcs of 7715w for now pending when you can afford adding more OR OPTION B: you do dual setUp where the 3pcs of 475w panels use separate controller to charge the battery while the 4pcs of 715w uses it's own separate or inbuilt controller.
Issue with OPTION B is, except you already have spare controller + solar cables, cost of getting them could make it not worth it especially if distance means you ned longer cables.

but then, there's OPTION C:
if your hybrid inverter has dual PV inputs, then you don't need a separate controller; you just split the panels putting the 3pcs of 475w on PV point 1, and the 4pcs of 715w panels on PV point 2. Again, if using copper, and the distance is long, cost of getting the additional cables should be considered though you could choose using Aluminium cable (NEPA wire) on that point.

Should you choose to instead buy 4pcs of 475w solar panels to add to what you already got, no wahala except now, should in future you want to go for a higher panel wattage, you would worry about disposing off 7pcs, and not just 3pcs of 475w solar panels.

Also, ensure whatever solar panels you get is at least halfCut Mono. Anything less is oldSchool.

boss I use Jinko 535W bifacial panels, will I have to change to if I want to go for bigger ones? 600w plus.

Anywhere I see pictures of a fresh tubular battery installation, your name is what pops up in my mind.

bassdow:
Just so you know; I buy and use Lithium based batteries for most clients. Have even bought directly (myself) and inDirectly (pointing the client) from the likes of @valto and @mrReed though they hardly would know because me no dey introduce. BUT persoanlly, still uses both Tubular and SLA batteries for various reasons.

BUT it's bad blindly doing something without knowing why you following such route. My major issue with Lithium based batteries is, it's easier to deceive the customer.

Marketers keep advertising and telling you Lithium batteries has 90% to 95% Dept of Discharge hence is better than Tubular batteries which is 50% Dept of Discharge BUT what they fail to inform you of is, running your Lithium based batteries to such length wouldn't allow it last that many Cycles and years they promised you.

Compare 3 lithium batteries of same brand, same load, same quality charger, same user BUT 1st is ran at 50% DOD, the 2nd at 70% DOD, and the 3rd at 90% DOD. You need not be told the one at 90% DOD would fail first, followed by the one at 70% DOD, and lastly the one at 50% DOD.

That's if your Lithium battery is of a quality brand to begin with.

They mostly tell you what you wanna hear.

I would say, Lithium is better BUT only if DONE right else you just wasting money. Have read of tubular and leadAcid batteries lasting as much as 8 to 10 years and personally, have clients who have used theirs for over 5-years and counting.

Another thing wey dey kill battery na team 24v 5kva inverters; and those who buy 200AH battery when they actually needed 400AH.

Hybrid inverters which prioritize Solar panels as source would actually save battery more than those that doesn't. Funny enough, not all hybrid inverters have such feature. Most go for Hybrid to avoid paying for Charge Controller, not for said feature.

Good Morning

Khoded:
6.2kva Inverter setup

Consist of:
2 Pylontech 2.4kwh batteries
6.2kva Sako inverter
10mm pure copper DC cable 10m(10yards)
2 units of never used 635w jinko n-type solar panel (bought from fouani)
Price 2m

Sudden relocation, items not up to a month

location?

Why is it cheaper to buy two 12v lithium batteries than one 24v battery of the same capacity?

Valto:
all types lifepo4 cells available at discounted prices

please update your price list

Can those afripower inverters designed for LA/Tubular batteries be used with a lithium ion phosphate battery?

agbonda:
Price
Location

both on the post boss.

odimbannamdi:
This is not a Hybrid inverter

why are you arguing with me on my own inverter bro?

GloryJoyeux:
Hi,

The rating of bi-facial is the expected STC rating, just like monofacials.

So if a monofacial panel is rated 615w its bi-facial counterpart is also rated 615w.

Bi-facials then have a ‘potential’ power gain on the rating.

For example, I have 6 x JA 605w bifacial panels, they are rated to give me the 605w each, but I can get extra power of up to 653w each from bi-facial gains.

Here is my experience, I mounted it on a roof (regular angled roof), my max expected power at STC before bi-facial gains should be 6 x 605w =3,630 W. Then I can potentially get higher due to potential gain.

I actually get up to 3897w with them, so 649.5w each for 605w rated. That means I constantly get the bi-facial gain while mounted on roof.

The main thing is that your roof should be refective (etc aluminium) and from a white colour to like a light shade of gray etc, those are the roof colours that’s can reflect sunlight on the back of the panels. Black roofs might not work because black and darker colours absorb light and do not easily reflect.

See the attached picture, the first bar on the chart, notice the Pmax 3897w.

thank you for the education. 🙏

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW Panels (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Money good o. Jesus!

Machiny:
Was a faouni today and it's just 615w panel they have. Both BI facial and MONO facial are same price. Which is preferable? Also a transformer base and non transformer base hybrid which is better?

go with mono facial. The bi-facial is only 615w when mounted correctly where it can get the reflected sunlight rays. If you mount on the roof you won’t get 615W. Just go with mono facial either ways.

AndroBlaze:
So as you clearly admit, it's your panels carrying your AC and not your battery which means you inadvertently made a misleading comparison to the original case where no panels were used; and that's why everyone is assuming you've killed your batteries.

It's fine though and as you've also pointed out you are thinking about going lithium.....and if you could prove that your LA batteries are in top condition, you are still likely to get higher than scrap value for them since you have maintained them so well.

Is there a market for used tubular batteries?

fuckboys:
let him just continue and enjoy his money's worth, the batteries are gone already.

2 years plus still serving me well. Also the reason why I haven’t seen the need to upgrade lithium batteries cos anybody buying used tubular batteries will buy as scrap. I have enough solar panels to cover for the load so I don’t see how it’s a problem for the batteries.

AndroBlaze:
Would I be right to guess that you have solar panels?

Yes of course.

AndroBlaze:
Dam5reey recently did a video of the 1.5kw Haisic inverter carrying an inverter AC rated 1.5hp on a battery of only 100ah till it died (over an hour)! Lets see a lead acid lover try that test with even a 200ah battery!

It seems that Haisic inverter is the real deal so you maybe able to get away with it occasionally.

I power my 1.5 hp Genpal inverter AC (on gen mode level 1) with my 1700w Afripower hybrid inverter and 2 tubular batteries from 10am -2pm.

Mavor:
Some of you guys are just too weird and bizarre on this space. 9ja thing is always the opposite. Too toxic. Thank God I am exiting this country in a few years

wetin dey hungry you no dey market. Congratulations in advance bro but we don’t give a Bleep about where you stay or go.

Oem18:
Why?? If you cannot satisfy his quest for knowledge step aside. You yourself did not become knowledgeable overnight.

The research he has made so far on this thread has been quite captivating and will help future newbies.

It’s better he is even doing it here. Imagine he is going back to a physical store to ask or he is tormenting one technician that needs work.