₦airaland Forum

For best engine and gear performance buy quality imported (Holland) engine oil and automatic transmission oil at affordable price in Ibadan.
* Rymco Engine oil (multigrade: 20W50)
* Rymco Engine oil (full synthetic: 5W30, 0w40, 5W40)
* Rymco ATF (Dexron III)
* Rhmco ATF (Dexron VI)

A well equiped lube bay with equipments and tools in center of Ibadan is for lease.
For the services of Car oil-change (engine and gear), Car Alighnment, Car wheel balancing.
Interested person.

Hope I'm not too late-laide0077@yahoo.com. God bless u

@op

@op good job

Good morning friends

Automobiles today are made up of complex electronic parts which require proper diagnoses before a repair could be succesfully carried out. Unfortunately, our common "local mechanics" still rely on "trial by error" in tracing car faults which could have a serious financial implication.
Car owners can now tackle this challenges by visiting auto workshops that use modern computerized diagnosing tools to detect faults.
There is also an opportunity to own a code reader to pull out the fault codes, interprete and make recomendation to your mechanic about which part to fix or atleast, have an idea about where the fault is coming from. By doing this, you avoid being ripped off by your mechanic or being getting your vehicle granded for long due to wrong diagnoses and repairs.
If your car is made in the years 1996 upwards, with little amount, you can own a relatively affordable hand held code reader and be trained on how to read and interprete the fault codes. It is easier than you thought.
PM me if you need one.

If you are in Ibadan and you have problem with your car, you can contact me for free diagnostic scan and code interpretation.

The car must be 1996 model and above.
DLC connector must be present.

Be ready to bring your car to #89, Ile epo bus stop, Iwo Road, Ibadan

olaideabas@gmail.com

It basically depends on ur budget. Like someone posted, we have hundreds of varying grades of scanners with different prices. A handheld universal DIY powertrain (engine nd transmission) scanner could cost btw 8k and 30k. So it's difficult to get direct answer.

Contact us for your inexpensive universal automotive code reader that allows you to read live, real time engine data.
View vehicle sensor, switch and relay inputs in real time, while the engine is running.
Code definitions on screen.
Though manual is available, no manual required to operate it. All the information you need is on screen.
Provides VIN# and freeze frame data. This information is commonly requested for Fleet and police vehicles.
Automatically reads DTCS (Diagnostic Trouble Code)for faster diagnosis and productivity.
Able to read more information on screen and in darkly lit areas with two line, back-lit screen. Reduce scrolling and improve overall user experience.

Call 08083715810 for price or Check my signature for details

Contact us for your inexpensive universal automotive code reader that allows you to read live, real time engine data.
View vehicle sensor, switch and relay inputs in real time, while the engine is running.
Code definitions on screen.
Though manual is available, no manual required to operate it. All the information you need is on screen.
Provides VIN# and freeze frame data. This information is commonly requested for Fleet and police vehicles.
Automatically reads DTCS (Diagnostic Trouble Code)for faster diagnosis and productivity.
Able to read more information on screen and in darkly lit areas with two line, back-lit screen. Reduce scrolling and improve overall user experience.

Call 08083715810 for price or Check my signature for details

...DIY....

A little background into automobile computer diagnosis.

The OBD (On board Diagnostics) started in 1969, when Volkswagen introduced the on-board computer on their fuel injected type 3 models, this was followed by Datsun in 1975 and General Motors in 1980. But in 1991, the California Air Resources Board (CARB) made it mandatory for all vehicles sold in California have some form of OBD capabilities.

Standardization of the system came into effect in 1996 when it became mandatory for all vehicles sold in the United States to conform to the OBDII standard which includes the adoption of a universal connector for all brand of Vehicles. The OBD-II specification provides for a standardized hardware interface—the female 16-pin. Unlike the OBD-I connector, which was sometimes found under the hood of the vehicle, the OBD-II connector is required to be within 2 feet of the steering wheel.

The essence of having this system, is to allow technicians interact with the on-board computers which are monitoring the activities of the various sensors and actuators on the vehicle. Some of which includes the but not limited to (engine, transmission and emission), chassis (ABS, Traction Control System, Vehicle Stability Control e.t.c), body (Impact protection system, suspension control system e.t.c.). The available systems for electronic diagnosis however varies from one manufacturer to another.

The availability of Malfunction Indicator Lamps (MIL) which comes in various shapes and colours on the instrument clusters of all vehicles is to alert the vehicle driver or owner (as the case may be) of a problem. When a vehicle is started, the On Board Computer runs a diagnosis on all the sensors and actuators and triggers the MIL if a problem is detected or turns it off if all is clear.

All Malfunction Indicator Lamps should be off while the vehicle is running, if otherwise, you should definitely run a scan.

During the past week, Mazda, Nissan, and Volkswagen have each announced recalls of various vehicle models, including Mazda Tributes from model years 2001-2004. Details are below, in alphabetical order by manufacturer.

2001-2004 Mazda Tribute
Mazda is recalling 109,000 model-year 2001-2004 Tribute vehicles manufactured May 22, 2000, through December 19, 2003, originally sold, or currently registered in, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia, Wisconsin, and the District of Columbia. These vehicles may experience excessive corrosion at the forward attachment of the lower control arm. A separation of the lower control arm could result in a significant loss of steering control.

Mazda will notify owners, and dealers will install a newly designed reinforcement cross-brace, free of charge. Parts are not currently available. Mazda expects to send an interim notification around May 19, 2014. When parts are available, owners will be mailed a second letter to come in to have the part installed. If customers bring their vehicles to a dealer before reinforcement crossbraces are available, dealers will inspect the subframe and either inform customers that the vehicle is safe to drive until the remedy parts are available or provide a rental vehicle until parts are available if an immediate repair is needed. Owners may contact Mazda at 1-800-222-5500. Mazda's number for this recall is 7514D; owners may also refer to National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) campaign ID number 14V174000.

2014 Mazda 3
2014-2015 Mazda 6
Mazda is recalling 5,700 vehicles, including model-year 2014 Mazda 3 manufactured June 12, 2013, through December 18, 2013, and model-year 2014-2015 Mazda 6 manufactured May 20, 2013, through December 4, 2013, and both equipped with a 2.5-liter engine and a regenerative engine braking system. When driving the affected vehicles in heavy rain or in deep puddles, the alternator belt may slip, causing the power control module (PCM) to incorrectly assume failure of the charging system. This would cause the vehicle to stop charging and could result in poor acceleration, loss of steering assist and windshield wiper operation, and a possible engine stall.
Mazda will notify owners, and dealers will reprogram the PCM with updated software, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin in late April 2014. Owners may contact Mazda at 1-800-222-5500. Mazda's number for this recall is 7314D; owners may also refer to NHTSA campaign ID number 14V173000.

2013 Nissan Pathfinder
Nissan is recalling 3,065 model-year 2013 Pathfinder vehicles manufactured April 18, 2012, through October 3, 2012, and equipped with a continuously variable transmission (CVT). In the affected vehicles, the internal oil cooler (ITOC) hose may detach from the cooler due to inadequate clamping force, allowing transmission fluid to leak. The loss of transmission fluid could cause the transmission to function improperly and the vehicle to stop accelerating.

Nissan will notify owners, and dealers will install an oil hose repair kit, free of charge. The recall will begin in May 2014. Owners may contact Nissan at 1-800-647-7261, and may refer to NHTSA campaign ID number 14V142000.

2014 Volkswagen Beetle/Beetle Convertible
2014 Volkswagen Jetta
2014 Volkswagen Passat
Volkswagen is recalling 26,452 model-year 2014 Jetta, Beetle, Beetle Convertible, and Passat vehicles equipped with a 1.8-liter turbocharged engine and torque converter automatic transmission. In the affected vehicles, the O-ring seals between the oil cooler and the transmission may leak fluid. If leaking transmission fluid contacts a hot surface, a vehicle fire could result.

Volkswagen will notify owners, and dealers will replace the O-ring seals in the transmission oil cooler, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin on April 16, 2014. Owners may contact Volkswagen at 1-800-822-8987. Volkswagen's number for this recall is 38B9/9V; owners may also refer to NHTSA campaign ID number 14V182000.

http://autos.jdpower.com/content/blog-post/QFOQUs6/recall-roundup-mazda-nissan-vw-announce-recalls.htm

....DIY....

when confused, run a scan.
I have, times without number, read on this forum and also, I have listened to several car owners complaining about how they have been spending endlessly in order to get their cars fixed but without success. This always make me wonder if these people have heard anything about running a scan.

In this age, I believe running a scan is the first thing that should be done the moments "check engine light" or "service engine soon light" illuminates before starting throwing parts at the car. This will surely save them a lot of time, frustration and resources.

Our popular "road side mechanics" also know automobile repair industries have evolved beyond guess-work but some of them find it difficult to catch up with the technology probably due to their level of education or available resources as we truly have some professional ones that run to thousands of (US) dollars.

As a car owner, owning a personal scan too is not a bad idea. The good news is that there ones designed to read power train (engine and transmission) fault codes which are highly affordable and easy to use.

Scanning your vehicle will not fix it, unless it is just to delete soft diagnostic trouble code(s), but will surely show you the direction to which you should focus your energy. And with the use of internet, you can surely get it right. Even if you are not fixing your vehicle, you will surely help your mechanic, avoid time wastage and of course save your resources.

My next post will be step by step involved in running a scan, using hand held scan tool/code reader.

silvoice:
u are a good son of ur father. A novice lik me is dancing dorobucci on this info. Thanks man

You are welcome

...diy...

1. Start simple.

Start with the easiest repairs first. Don't dive right into rebuilding your transmission. You'll gain confidence, learn how to use tools, and begin to understand how everything fits together on your car.

Here are some great repairs for the weekend mechanics;
Change Wiper Blades
Replace Air Filter
Replace Headlight
Replace Battery
Replace Spark Plugs
Change Oil
Replace Belts

If you're undertaking a repair that's not on this list and you're just getting started, at least make sure it's a repair that doesn't require you to lie on your back, deep underneath your car.

If you do have to jack up your car to get underneath it, under no circumstances should you use the flimsy jack that came with the car. And never, ever get under your car, unless it's supported by appropriate jack stands.

Finally, when you're getting started, try to avoid repairs that involve squeezing yourself into an uncomfortable position, which can make a repair more difficult.

2. Avoid repairs with dire consequences.

Try to avoid repairs or service work where the consequences of a mishap are great. For example, don't try to replace your brake master cylinder or fuel line on your first repair. You could end up crashing into a plutonium tanker or worse still, you might even wreck your engine.

3. Get the tools you need.

Before you start ripping apart your car, go out and get a set of tools, including:

A complete set of socket wrenches, including swivel sockets with extensions of various lengths and angle accessories
A complete set of flat and ring spanners/wrenches
The usual screwdrivers, pliers -- and especially, a good set of vise grips.

I also think the most important tool to DIYer is scan/diagnostic tool (even if it is basic one). I will specially address this later.

Whatever special tools are necessary for the job you're contemplating. For example, a special tool is necessary to remove the oil filter, and another for the spark plugs. And in both cases, there are different sizes of tools. So take a look first and find out what you'll need.

No matter what tools you buy, you still won't have all the tools you'll need. So, my final piece of advice is to start your repair early. That way, the parts store will still be open when you head down there looking for that special tool you need.

4. Do a little homework.

Do some homework before you plunge into a repair. It just might save you a lot later. Buy the manufacturer's shop manual for your vehicle, and read up on the repair.

Here's a reason why it's important to do your homework:

Imaging you have already bought the parts to be replaced in your vehicle. You later got the manual and looked closely, you then noticed that step 1 said, "remove engine." No kidding.

So, do your research first! You may even seek help from educated car forums like this.

5. See one before you do one.

The best way to learn is to work with someone who knows what he or she is doing. If you're undertaking a repair you've never even seen done before, it's reasonably likely that you'll screw it up -- or, at best, you'll do it the hard way. My advice? Operate on the same principle that medical schools use: see one, do one, teach one. Play it safe.

6. Don't be ashamed to ask for help if you screw up.

It happens. Don't be shy about calling your regular mechanic. Tell him you screwed up your repair and need a question or two answered. If he's a nice guy, he'll take pity on you and attend to you.

Don't take advantage of your mechanic, however. Remember that he's probably extremely busy, so be patient with him.

A final word of advice. If you really screw up, and have to take your car to your mechanic, don't try to cover it up. Confess. A good mechanic whould surely know when a customer has tried to hide a repair gone awry. Everyone makes mistakes, strips bolts, and blows parts up. It happens. It may take a few years, but eventually, you'll even laugh about it.

7. Safely dispose of the toxic crud that will come out of your car.

After you're done with your repair, it's possible you'll be left with used coolant, motor oil, brake fluid, or other toxic materials. You'll need to dispose of it safely.

Again, your contributions are highly welcome.

lomomike:
Mtcheew! I been think say OP wan convert petrol motor to Diesel, comot the 4 cylinder engine, drop i6, change the drivetrain I no know say na lecture him wan give. OP you no try

I'm not doing any of such but be rest assure of my support in case you want to try them. I'm here to encourage you and also make sure you are safe while you diy. I still no try shey? lol

Interested in trying a little DIY?

It takes enthusiasm to indulge in DIY.
In my humble opinion, servicing and repairing your car yourself provides at least four benefits:
-It gives you an excuse to avoid other household chores (lol).
-It's an opportunity to buy lots of really cool tools.
-You might actually fix your car - and save money in the process.
-You will know more about the machine that takes you around.

However, Your primary goal should not be to fix the car, neither is your secondary goal or the third goal.
Your first and most important goal is to walk away from your car at the end of the day without getting injured, your second goal is to not blow anything or anyone else up, your third goal is to not break something that's not already broken while Your fourth/last goal is to fix what's broken. So, when next your want to do it yourself your SAFETY and that of others around you should always be at the back of your mind. How do you know if a certain repair is right for you? In my opinion, there are three factors to consider:
-How dangerous is the repair to life and limb if something goes wrong during or after the job?
-The risk that you might cause permanent, unalterable damage to your car.
-The degree of complexity of the repair, or the need for very special and expensive tools.

There are also some important tips to help you through. They are highlighted below;
1 Start Simple.
2 Avoid repairs with dire consequences.
3 Get the tools you need.
4 Do a little homework.
5 See one before you do one.
6 Don't be ashamed to ask for help if you screw up.
7 Safely dispose of the toxic crud that will come out of your car.

I will be explaining them one after the other in my subsequent posts. Your contribution is highly welcome in this thread.
Thanks for your time.