₦airaland Forum

emyfine08:
Thanks for reminding me. their two things my engineer told me that will be the case 1, maybe the battery is not charging well 2 the load management so he advise me to upgrade to 48v because of our load on it, for the reason I can not open it to reconfigure it we decided to sell it off. Am not explain all this things to convince anybody but I the situations now

dollarnaira:
The sun lately is something else.

GloryJoyeux:
Hey folks,

Just wanted to drop a solid recommendation for anyone considering the new Deye 6kW hybrid inverter. I recently got my hands on one and have been running it pretty hard to see what it’s made of — and honestly, I’m impressed.

First off, it’s parallel capable up to 16 units, so scaling up is no issue. Efficiency-wise, this thing is tight — I clocked idle power draw at just 30W when running a 1.6kWh load, and it only pulled under 100W even with 4kWh flowing. I also put max sustained load of 6kw, it took it like a champ! That’s some seriously optimized idle-to-load performance.

Now, let’s talk MPPTs. The Deye has a new feature under Advanced Settings called “MPPT Multi-Point”. Game changer. One of my PV strings gets shaded after 1PM, and normally performance drops off hard. But with this setting enabled, the inverter kept pulling full amps from the unshaded panels — like it knew exactly what to do. I ran the numbers — the gain was legit.

Sound-wise, it’s practically silent. It uses just one fan, which only kicks in at high loads. No annoying coil whine either — just a soft whoosh when it ramps up. I’m running 10,280W of solar into it, though it can handle up to 12,000W on dual MPPTs. It charges and discharges at 135A, and with an IP65 rating, it’s perfect for our dusty, humid conditions. Built-in WiFi made setup easy and remote monitoring is clean.

Small Catch:

Since it’s a newer model, Solar Assistant doesn’t support it yet, but I checked — it logs every 60 seconds and pushes data every 5 minutes to the Deye app/web. Accuracy is within 98% of Solar Assistant’s metrics, which is impressive for a stock system.

I also tested it with both closed-loop (BMS comms) and open-loop (voltage-based) battery setups. It handled both without breaking a sweat.

Cost & Efficiency:

It set me back ₦950,000, and honestly? The performance outshines Growatt, Axpert, Sumry, Welion, SMS, Sako — pretty much every other popular Chinese inverter I’ve tested.

One thing I’ve noticed with a lot of these cheaper all-in-one units is they use low-quality conversion components. For example, an SMS inverter I tested lost a constant 4.5kWh/day due to inefficiency. Doesn’t matter if you’re generating 9kWh or 30kWh — you’re losing a minimum of 4.5kWh daily. That’s 135kWh a month gone. Discharge efficiency was also poor — I was only getting 86–89% usable energy out of a 10kWh battery.

With the Deye? I’m seeing up to 96% usable, meaning 9.6kWh out of a 10kWh pack. That’s a huge difference.

Testing Other Brands:

I also tested the true output of other inverters, and most are overrated. A “6.2kW” Sumry unit (sms, welion, sako, powrmr, anern, victor max, daxtraumn etc) barely managed 5.6kW sustained, and a “10.2kW” SMS one capped out at 8.2kW. Turns out, they rate them based on PV input, not actual AC output — which explains a lot.

My Brand Ranking (So Far):
• #1: Deye – most efficient and best built
• #2: SRNE – decent performance, but not quite Deye
• #3: Growatt – solid, but a step below SRNE
• Way down the list: Felicity Solar and similar budget brands

That said, I do have beef with SRNE’s pricing. They’re trying to pass off their gear as premium because they’re UL-listed and in the U.S. market. But their 16kWh battery is way overpriced for what you get. It’s just REPT cells rated at 8000 cycles (anyone can get their hands on this cells, and no guarantee its actually grade A sef), and nothing special inside — no thermal padding, no fire suppression, no fancy BMS features. You can get better-built packs from Deriy, Bicodi, Gospower, Lvtopsun, or Valtech for less.

Quite a long read, if you have any questions you can ask me.

GloryJoyeux:
Hey folks,

Just wanted to drop a solid recommendation for anyone considering the new Deye 6kW hybrid inverter. I recently got my hands on one and have been running it pretty hard to see what it’s made of — and honestly, I’m impressed.

First off, it’s parallel capable up to 16 units, so scaling up is no issue. Efficiency-wise, this thing is tight — I clocked idle power draw at just 30W when running a 1.6kWh load, and it only pulled under 100W even with 4kWh flowing. I also put max sustained load of 6kw, it took it like a champ! That’s some seriously optimized idle-to-load performance.

Now, let’s talk MPPTs. The Deye has a new feature under Advanced Settings called “MPPT Multi-Point”. Game changer. One of my PV strings gets shaded after 1PM, and normally performance drops off hard. But with this setting enabled, the inverter kept pulling full amps from the unshaded panels — like it knew exactly what to do. I ran the numbers — the gain was legit.

Sound-wise, it’s practically silent. It uses just one fan, which only kicks in at high loads. No annoying coil whine either — just a soft whoosh when it ramps up. I’m running 10,280W of solar into it, though it can handle up to 12,000W on dual MPPTs. It charges and discharges at 135A, and with an IP65 rating, it’s perfect for our dusty, humid conditions. Built-in WiFi made setup easy and remote monitoring is clean.

Small Catch:

Since it’s a newer model, Solar Assistant doesn’t support it yet, but I checked — it logs every 60 seconds and pushes data every 5 minutes to the Deye app/web. Accuracy is within 98% of Solar Assistant’s metrics, which is impressive for a stock system.

I also tested it with both closed-loop (BMS comms) and open-loop (voltage-based) battery setups. It handled both without breaking a sweat.

Cost & Efficiency:

It set me back ₦950,000, and honestly? The performance outshines Growatt, Axpert, Sumry, Welion, SMS, Sako — pretty much every other popular Chinese inverter I’ve tested.

One thing I’ve noticed with a lot of these cheaper all-in-one units is they use low-quality conversion components. For example, an SMS inverter I tested lost a constant 4.5kWh/day due to inefficiency. Doesn’t matter if you’re generating 9kWh or 30kWh — you’re losing a minimum of 4.5kWh daily. That’s 135kWh a month gone. Discharge efficiency was also poor — I was only getting 86–89% usable energy out of a 10kWh battery.

With the Deye? I’m seeing up to 96% usable, meaning 9.6kWh out of a 10kWh pack. That’s a huge difference.

Testing Other Brands:

I also tested the true output of other inverters, and most are overrated. A “6.2kW” Sumry unit (sms, welion, sako, powrmr, anern, victor max, daxtraumn etc) barely managed 5.6kW sustained, and a “10.2kW” SMS one capped out at 8.2kW. Turns out, they rate them based on PV input, not actual AC output — which explains a lot.

My Brand Ranking (So Far):
• #1: Deye – most efficient and best built
• #2: SRNE – decent performance, but not quite Deye
• #3: Growatt – solid, but a step below SRNE
• Way down the list: Felicity Solar and similar budget brands

That said, I do have beef with SRNE’s pricing. They’re trying to pass off their gear as premium because they’re UL-listed and in the U.S. market. But their 16kWh battery is way overpriced for what you get. It’s just REPT cells rated at 8000 cycles (anyone can get their hands on this cells, and no guarantee its actually grade A sef), and nothing special inside — no thermal padding, no fire suppression, no fancy BMS features. You can get better-built packs from Deriy, Bicodi, Gospower, Lvtopsun, or Valtech for less.

Quite a long read, if you have any questions you can ask me.

cutefy:
I just confirmed the price. It's 177k

Compliant:
Thesame felicity lithium battery that you were complaining few days ago that it does not last?

Now you are saying reason for selling is because you upgraded to 48v?


Kindly let the prospective buyer know the issue so as to make a profound decision

Thank you

fuckboys:
Went to Cworth alaba today.

I used the Armstrong format, I learnt something new.
When you go there never ask them for price or how much they're selling. Just use the prices below. Works like charm.

Asking them price or how much they're selling and then they know you're jjc and inflate prices.

Got 2 500w panels and a 100a 12v battery.

AinsSama:
That's more than sufficient

GloryJoyeux:
Hey folks,

Just wanted to drop a solid recommendation for anyone considering the new Deye 6kW hybrid inverter. I recently got my hands on one and have been running it pretty hard to see what it’s made of — and honestly, I’m impressed.

First off, it’s parallel capable up to 16 units, so scaling up is no issue. Efficiency-wise, this thing is tight — I clocked idle power draw at just 30W when running a 1.6kWh load, and it only pulled under 100W even with 4kWh flowing. I also put max sustained load of 6kw, it took it like a champ! That’s some seriously optimized idle-to-load performance.

Now, let’s talk MPPTs. The Deye has a new feature under Advanced Settings called “MPPT Multi-Point”. Game changer. One of my PV strings gets shaded after 1PM, and normally performance drops off hard. But with this setting enabled, the inverter kept pulling full amps from the unshaded panels — like it knew exactly what to do. I ran the numbers — the gain was legit.

Sound-wise, it’s practically silent. It uses just one fan, which only kicks in at high loads. No annoying coil whine either — just a soft whoosh when it ramps up. I’m running 10,280W of solar into it, though it can handle up to 12,000W on dual MPPTs. It charges and discharges at 135A, and with an IP65 rating, it’s perfect for our dusty, humid conditions. Built-in WiFi made setup easy and remote monitoring is clean.

Small Catch:

Since it’s a newer model, Solar Assistant doesn’t support it yet, but I checked — it logs every 60 seconds and pushes data every 5 minutes to the Deye app/web. Accuracy is within 98% of Solar Assistant’s metrics, which is impressive for a stock system.

I also tested it with both closed-loop (BMS comms) and open-loop (voltage-based) battery setups. It handled both without breaking a sweat.

Cost & Efficiency:

It set me back ₦950,000, and honestly? The performance outshines Growatt, Axpert, Sumry, Welion, SMS, Sako — pretty much every other popular Chinese inverter I’ve tested.

One thing I’ve noticed with a lot of these cheaper all-in-one units is they use low-quality conversion components. For example, an SMS inverter I tested lost a constant 4.5kWh/day due to inefficiency. Doesn’t matter if you’re generating 9kWh or 30kWh — you’re losing a minimum of 4.5kWh daily. That’s 135kWh a month gone. Discharge efficiency was also poor — I was only getting 86–89% usable energy out of a 10kWh battery.

With the Deye? I’m seeing up to 96% usable, meaning 9.6kWh out of a 10kWh pack. That’s a huge difference.

Testing Other Brands:

I also tested the true output of other inverters, and most are overrated. A “6.2kW” Sumry unit (sms, welion, sako, powrmr, anern, victor max, daxtraumn etc) barely managed 5.6kW sustained, and a “10.2kW” SMS one capped out at 8.2kW. Turns out, they rate them based on PV input, not actual AC output — which explains a lot.

My Brand Ranking (So Far):
• #1: Deye – most efficient and best built
• #2: SRNE – decent performance, but not quite Deye
• #3: Growatt – solid, but a step below SRNE
• Way down the list: Felicity Solar and similar budget brands

That said, I do have beef with SRNE’s pricing. They’re trying to pass off their gear as premium because they’re UL-listed and in the U.S. market. But their 16kWh battery is way overpriced for what you get. It’s just REPT cells rated at 8000 cycles (anyone can get their hands on this cells, and no guarantee its actually grade A sef), and nothing special inside — no thermal padding, no fire suppression, no fancy BMS features. You can get better-built packs from Deriy, Bicodi, Gospower, Lvtopsun, or Valtech for less.

Quite a long read, if you have any questions you can ask me.

mctfopt:
Check AliExpress

Scan code for a sample.

fuckboys:
A battery with 1.2kwh, 100ah. How bad is this battery?

Haven't even hit 50ah yet and it's at 80% dod

GloryJoyeux:
First off, it’s parallel capable up to 16 units, so scaling up is no issue. Efficiency-wise, this thing is tight — I clocked idle power draw at just 30W when running a 1.6kWh load, and it only pulled under 100W even with 4kWh flowing. I also put max sustained load of 6kw, it took it like a champ! That’s some seriously optimized idle-to-load performance.

GloryJoyeux:
That said, I do have beef with SRNE’s pricing. They’re trying to pass off their gear as premium because they’re UL-listed and in the U.S. market. But their 16kWh battery is way overpriced for what you get. It’s just REPT cells rated at 8000 cycles (anyone can get their hands on this cells, and no guarantee its actually grade A sef), and nothing special inside — no thermal padding, no fire suppression, no fancy BMS features. You can get better-built packs from Deriy, Bicodi, Gospower, Lvtopsun, or Valtech for less.

obinna37:
Used Trina 250w poly solar panel for sales,just offloaded,

If you're buying more from 4 pieces #32,000

If you're buying one or two pieces #35,000


Lagos
08034034206

HeavenlyBang:
Use something and cover some cells

HeavenlyBang:
How do these Cworth inverters perform?

KudozInteriors:
Please is there a way of confirming the actual capacity of a LifePO4 battery asides what is written on the company sticker? Is there a way of knowing the exact KWH that is in the battery?

samnaija:
Bashing of lead acid batteries, on this thread. Na wa.

Like what someone said earlier, it depends on your pocket. But has of Nigerian market is concerned, lead acid is going nowhere. Battery banks of all types all depend on how you build it (size).and the source.

Has far has your battery bank is serving you efficiently i dont see any reason to change from one type to another. This is my 6 th year on lead and no complain.

Your build is very important from the beginning, that is all.

HeavenlyBang:
No need for long talk.

Na so dem say carburetor better pass injectors too.

Dam5reey1:
Assumptions:
Mercury Tall Tubular 220AH 12V X 16 units = 42.2KWH
16x 340,000 = 5,440,000

Deriy Batteries LFP 14.3kwh X 3 units = 42.9KWH
3 x 1,850,000 = 5,550,000...

So why Should you Buy Lead acid

samnaija:
Am trying hard. I dont sell batteries like you.
I am full diy, not a marketer like you .I still say it from my personal opinion nothing wrong with lead battery , size it properly. And i will still say ,it sells the most on Nigeria.

Ferdiwar:
I've been doing some research on it but my I'm still looking for a BSM that can handle 750amps as my car takes up to 700 amps to start.

Dharyhor:
Good afternoon everyone

My Haier thermocool inverter freezer rated for 100watts consumes around 100watts whenever I put in on but as time goes on, the consumption can rise to as high as 320watts.

What could likely be the problem?

Trippledots:
Some BMS allow for parallel connection to increase amperage.

GloryJoyeux:
Hi again, sorry another long read.

I noticed some folks, especially those who have solar installed in an area with good grid availability and don’t mind using the grid to supplement their battery charge, usually only discharge their batteries to around 80-50 percent.

Some others do this because they believe they want to pamper their batteries.

It’s a bit counterintuitive, but both research and real-world testing with LiFePO₄ (LFP) batteries show that:

Deeper discharges (like going from 100% down to 20%) can actually give you more usable life than shallow ones (like 100% to 80%), especially when you look at the total energy delivered over the battery’s lifespan.

Now, I don’t mean you shouldn’t size your battery storage for poor solar yield days, but, even if you have double the storage capacity you usually use daily, you should intentionally allow deeper discharges some days.

Energy used now is the best energy, not a future promise (cycles). And the reality is that most of this cycle tests are done in a lab with compression. And either ways you loose capacity (ah) gradually till it fades to End of Life at 70-80 percent of original rating. Calendar aging is also a major factor to consider.

Let me explain why that happens:

⸻

What Most People Think:

“If I only use a little of my battery each time, I’ll get more cycles and the battery will last longer.”

That idea makes sense — and it does hold true for some chemistries like NMC. But LFP works a little differently, and it depends on how you define “life.” Is it how many times you can cycle the battery? Or how much energy you can actually pull out of it before it wears out?

⸻

Here’s What Actually Happens with LFP:

1. Shallow Discharging Isn’t Always Better
• LFP cells are happiest when used in the middle 60–80% of their charge range (say, between 20% and 90% SOC).
• If you’re only cycling from 100% to 80%, you’re:
• Not really exercising the battery
• Letting calendar aging (just sitting at a high state of charge) take over
• Getting very little usable energy per cycle
• Missing the chance to reset internal chemistry through normal cycling

2. Deeper Discharges Make Better Use of the Cell
• Discharging from 100% down to 20%, or even 90% → 10%, allows the battery to go through its intended charge range.
• This leads to:
• Better energy throughput per cycle
• More value from each cycle
• Still staying within the safe voltage range (2.5V–3.65V)

So while shallow cycles may give you more charge/discharge “events”, they deliver far less actual energy, and they may age the battery faster due to sitting at high voltages too long.

⸻

Real-Life Testing Shows:

Discharge Range Depth of Discharge (DoD) Cycle Life (to 80% SOH) Lifetime Energy Yield

100% → 80% 20% DoD ~15,000 cycles Low lifetime energy yield. Calendar aging will get to it before then

100% → 50% 50% DoD ~8,000–10,000 cycles Moderate lifetime energy yield. Calendar aging will also affect this.

100% → 35% 65% DoD ~6,000–7,000 cycles High lifetime energy yield

100% → 20% 80% DoD ~5,000–6,000 cycles Very High lifetime energy yield.

So ironically, 80% DoD gives you more usable energy over time than 20% DoD, even with fewer cycles.

⸻

Why Very Shallow Cycling Can Be Worse:
• The battery never resets chemically — it stays in a narrow, high-SOC zone.
• Oxidation and side reactions build up near the top (especially 90–100%).
• Calendar aging becomes dominant.
• You’re basically wearing it out without really using it.

⸻

Best Practices for LFP Longevity:
• Try to operate between 90–95% charge down to 15–20% — a good balance of depth and safety. (Pointless charging to 58.4v! 55.2v to 56v is very ideal for 16s (divide by 4 or 2 to get figures for 24v and 12v systems)
• Avoid leaving the battery parked at 100% for long periods. Like 24hrs straight with full charge voltage (cv)
• Let the cells “breathe” — regular charge/discharge cycles are good.
• Don’t be afraid of deep-but-reasonable cycles — LFP was built for them.

⸻

Bottom Line (TL;DR):

Shallow cycling sounds safer, but with LiFePO₄, it’s often less efficient over time. If you’re always going from 100% to 80%, you’re aging the battery without getting much out of it. Deeper cycles — like 100% to 20% — may reduce your total cycle count, but they deliver way more usable energy over the long run.

Trippledots:
It should settle down later, I think

GloryJoyeux:
Hi,

I can delve into a whole business lecture on why buying something because of 10 year warranty is a bad deal. If you are looking for real proven warranty track record go with Pylontech, BYD even Growatt batteries etc.

Please don’t ever fall into a warranty trap, buy a product because you are sure of the quality it delivers, value for money, reliability etc., never buy a product because of warranty! Warranty is just a plus not a main reason.

Supposed say, you buy a brands lfp battery that offers warranty and one cell goes bad. What if they tell you to send the whole pack to them in china but you will pay for shipping cost. Does that sound nice? But you technically still have warranty!

What if you send it and they use 1 year to rectify the issue, claiming they are waiting for parts! I mean they are still fixing it under ‘warranty’ but you will surely have to get another battery in the meantime.

Most times there is the Distributor vs Manufacturer factor, the distributor sometimes actually offers the warranty or handles warranty claims. Now what if the distributor exists the business in your region or country? There is no fallback, the warranty exists but the manufacturer will not honour it because you did not buy directly from them.

Like I said, I can delve into the economics of warranties if you wish, but don’t count 10 years warranty as a major plus.

Here is a link showing the inside of the battery, now tell me if it’s worth the premium.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thsUFZdtaZU?si=qWDXBGYZfIh60q6D