₦airaland Forum

ask4bk:
55.4v is low? Omo 😁😁. That's 3.46v which is over 90% of full charge. That's a very ok charge voltage.

Don't forget that LFP maintenance are rated based on 25ºc. That's temp for summer in Oyibo land. I'm Nigeria that's a cool temperature coz 90% of 365 days in naija we are above 25ºc ambient temp not to talk of temp of cells in the park as calculated by bms.

Where i stay ambient temp gets to 42ºc. If you charge regularly even at 3.5v in our high temp you are reducing LFP lifespan. That's a fact.

I always set active balancer to start balancing from 3.4v. My max charge around 3.46v. You'll not gain anything from 3.5v to 3.65v apart from heating ur cells and reducing lifespan.

Like i mentioned, active balancing has this advantage you stated (cell balancing at lower voltage). Much batteries come with passive balancing, therefore a need to go a little higher. I will consider swapping the BMS in my haisic 25.6v battery to a smart BMS with an active balancer in the nearest future if the battery design permits.

ask4bk:
Chief, seems you are solaris surge (or something like that) on Tiktok.
Weldone for all the efforts you do for this solar field.

You've always said that one day you'll test DIY battery packs of valto and mrreed to confirm the grade A cells they use for their set up . We know they've been tested by them and went above stated ahm capacity. But from a 3rd party will be cool for scientific and fun purpose.

Lastly... That elejoy mppt tester you got is the wrong one. Yours is showing EY1800W with green body outline. Elejoy doesn't produce anything like that. Its a fake knockoff. I saw an American guy testing with same one you have and he tested even when panel was facing down and it gave 500w+ 🤣🤣. You all bought the fake.

Always buy the EY800W that has red body outline. It's the best.

Always buy ke, these things are not cheap,
Buy and send me one for science.

Dam5reey:
Always buy ke, these things are not cheap,
Buy and send me one for science.

Lol... But at least you do acknowledge what i told you about the elejoy tester - that you got a cloned fake device.
One day you may need to correct the wrong notion the fake device gave you and which you told your audience so as not to destroy their good brand quality.

ask4bk:
Lol... But at least you do acknowledge what i told you about the elejoy tester - that you got a cloned fake device.
One day you may need to correct the wrong notion the fake device gave you and which you told your audience so as not to destroy their good brand quality.

The company should find my video and send original one.
I bought that toy for 52USD, na me go still correct what?

Dam5reey:
The company should find my video and send original one.
I bought that toy for 52USD, na me go still correct what?

😂 Did you even read your comment? You were deceived by fraudsters and went to buy a fake that doesn't even exist in their catalogue from a cloning company. And you expect the real company to come and save their name and send you a good product? 🤣🤣🤣🤣.

"Guys I've just realised that i got scammed and bought a non existent fake version of this company's product. I retract my comment about calling the company product a toy until i get the opportunity to test their real product someday"...

ask4bk:
😂 Did you even read your comment? You were deceived by fraudsters and went to buy a fake that doesn't even exist in their catalogue from a cloning company. And you expect the real company to come and save their name and send you a good product? 🤣🤣🤣🤣.

"Guys I've just realised that i got scammed and bought a non existent fake version of this company's product. I retract my comment about calling the company product a toy until i get the opportunity to test their real product someday"...

What are you saying oo
My 52 usd is at stake, send me original product if you are interested in cleaning up the air, else you are just part of the 1000 Adviser, Zero help!

Dam5reey:
What are you saying oo
My 52 usd is at stake, send me original product if you are interested in cleaning up the air, else you are just part of the 1000 Adviser, Zero help!

I don't work for them na. You are only expected to be human and do the right moral thing after wrongly tarnishing a brand after your mistake of lack of research.

You are a solar guy who have given yourself good name for years. If a scammer claims to be you and uses ur name to steal a project where he installs rubbish... It catches fire after 2 weeks and the scammed client goes online to say Solaris surge or Dam5reey is the worse solar installer with video proof of his burnt setup and house. A project you knew nothing about oh.
Someone recognises the scam and tells the scammed client that the guy who scammed him isn't Dam5reey oh, he scammed you. But clients says I don't care, let the real Dam5reey come and install a new setup in my house for free to save his name. My 6 million is at stake instead of saying, ah, i was scammed by one electrician Femi who isn't Solaris and I'm sorry for spoiling the name of the legit company. I sure you go like am.

See as you don make me write long super story to prove a point wey no concern me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. Just be human.

This is my cells right now, I guess they are well balanced.

ask4bk:
55.4v is low? Omo 😁😁. That's 3.46v which is over 90% of full charge. That's a very ok charge voltage.

Don't forget that LFP maintenance are rated based on 25ºc. That's temp for summer in Oyibo land. I'm Nigeria that's a cool temperature coz 90% of 365 days in naija we are above 25ºc ambient temp not to talk of temp of cells in the park as calculated by bms.

Where i stay ambient temp gets to 42ºc. If you charge regularly even at 3.5v in our high temp you are reducing LFP lifespan. That's a fact.

I always set active balancer to start balancing from 3.4v. My max charge around 3.46v. You'll not gain anything from 3.5v to 3.65v apart from heating ur cells and reducing lifespan.

obitobe:
Hello Everyone, please can anyone guide me properly? I use a Felicity IVEM 5048 inverter, with a LIFEPO4 15kWh DIY battery, and I noticed that the Felicity inverter has only two charging stages: Bulk and absorption charge. but in the setting, what is confusing me is that it states Battery C.V charging voltage and Battery floating charge voltage.



When I set the float charge, it works as the absorption charge value, so will I be right to say that the felicity inverter does not have a float charge stage under the LIB? Please see attached for what I am trying to explain.

...but you're using a Lithium battery na which is different from normal Lead Acid battery

obitobe:
This is my cells right now, I guess they are well balanced.

Not necessarily, put like 50A load on it then check again.....just passing by

obitobe:
This is my cells right now, I guess they are well balanced.

Over balance de worry am.
Keep this settings pls.
Don't let anyone deceive you to go to higher charging voltage.

ask4bk:
55.4v is low? Omo 😁😁. That's 3.46v which is over 90% of full charge. That's a very ok charge voltage.

Don't forget that LFP maintenance are rated based on 25ºc. That's temp for summer in Oyibo land. I'm Nigeria that's a cool temperature coz 90% of 365 days in naija we are above 25ºc ambient temp not to talk of temp of cells in the park as calculated by bms.

Where i stay ambient temp gets to 42ºc. If you charge regularly even at 3.5v in our high temp you are reducing LFP lifespan. That's a fact.

I always set active balancer to start balancing from 3.4v. My max charge around 3.46v. You'll not gain anything from 3.5v to 3.65v apart from heating ur cells and reducing lifespan.

I'm sure you know what absorption and floating means?

At what voltage should n lfp cell be done absorbing and at what cell voltage should it float?

ask4bk:
Over balance de worry am.
Keep this settings pls.
Don't let anyone deceive you to go to higher charging voltage.

Would suggest He / She follows @OjeySky suggestion

I ran a 1hp non inverter AC pulling about 750w, electric kettle pulling about 1400w, Mircowave pulling about 900w and other loads like ceiling fans and bulbs simultanously, on the battery i was pulling about 64A~66A, all this was powered for a few minutes each cell were at about 3.388v with the highest at 3.399v but after the load went off they gradually when back up to 3.452~3.453v.

For the first time putting my inverter on a 72% load. I guess i will not be trying this any time soon again.

bassdow:
Would suggest He / She follows @OjeySky suggestion

ask4bk:
55.4v is low? Omo 😁😁. That's 3.46v which is over 90% of full charge. That's a very ok charge voltage.

Don't forget that LFP maintenance are rated based on 25ºc. That's temp for summer in Oyibo land. I'm Nigeria that's a cool temperature coz 90% of 365 days in naija we are above 25ºc ambient temp not to talk of temp of cells in the park as calculated by bms.

Where i stay ambient temp gets to 42ºc. If you charge regularly even at 3.5v in our high temp you are reducing LFP lifespan. That's a fact.

I always set active balancer to start balancing from 3.4v. My max charge around 3.46v. You'll not gain anything from 3.5v to 3.65v apart from heating ur cells and reducing lifespan.

Charge current is a lot more relevant to cell temperature than voltage.

But yes, I don't see much of a point in bulk charging at over 55.4v. In fact, I've had my battery charging at ~54.5 in the past without much of an issue, it just charged slower due to the lower potential difference.

ask4bk:
I don't work for them na. You are only expected to be human and do the right moral thing after wrongly tarnishing a brand after your mistake of lack of research.

You are a solar guy who have given yourself good name for years. If a scammer claims to be you and uses ur name to steal a project where he installs rubbish... It catches fire after 2 weeks and the scammed client goes online to say Solaris surge or Dam5reey is the worse solar installer with video proof of his burnt setup and house. A project you knew nothing about oh.
Someone recognises the scam and tells the scammed client that the guy who scammed him isn't Dam5reey oh, he scammed you. But clients says I don't care, let the real Dam5reey come and install a new setup in my house for free to save his name. My 6 million is at stake instead of saying, ah, i was scammed by one electrician Femi who isn't Solaris and I'm sorry for spoiling the name of the legit company. I sure you go like am.

See as you don make me write long super story to prove a point wey no concern me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. Just be human.

Oga, you are just emotional, your Analogy no follow!
This is a product review!

fuckboys:
I'm sure you know what absorption and floating means?

At what voltage should n lfp cell be done absorbing and at what cell voltage should it float?

If you knew what the absorption and floating really is you'll know that the terminology applies to lead acid. Its only borrowed into LFP now.
LFP just has a charging voltage which you may call bulk or absorption from lead acid terms.
There are 1001 cv requirements based on brands and cell tech. Many datasheets will say 3.65v in the west. When they make it specifically for Africa and Asia they reduce. Even in the west people change their settings to lower cv. Practical setting for cv 3.45v-3.5v.

LFP doesn't feed floating for simple reason that LFP doesn't like to stay near 100% for long since it reduces lifespan. In the west, many let their cv stay for 6mins when complete and let it go down and settle at 3.35v. If your inverter forces you to float, set it at 3.35-3.40v. That's sweet área for us for long lifespan.

But since e de shark us for head to de see 100% for battery screen, we love to leave it to float near full so that when sun goes down we are near capacity. I also set my cv and float to same though i know its not best practice.
That's why i put cv and float low at 3.45v. I know the disadvantage but me too want near full by evening. Just fooling myself coz in most LFP discharge curve, even that 3.45v is almost same as 3.35v.

Dam5reey:
Oga, you are just emotional, your Analogy no follow!
This is a product review!

Only that it is a wrong product review.

As emotional as it was, you know se e go pain you if dem do am to you. But e de happy you now as you do am to another brand using a product that THAT IS NOT THEIRS

obitobe:
I ran a 1hp non inverter AC pulling about 750w, electric kettle pulling about 1400w, Mircowave pulling about 900w and other loads like ceiling fans and bulbs simultanously, on the battery i was pulling about 64A~66A, all this was powered for a few minutes each cell were at about 3.388v with the highest at 3.399v but after the load went off they gradually when back up to 3.452~3.453v.

For the first time putting my inverter on a 72% load. I guess i will not be trying this any time soon again.

64A on a 48v system having 0.011 voltage difference is great. Enjoy!

ask4bk:
If you knew what the absorption and floating really is you'll know that the terminology applies to lead acid. Its only borrowed into LFP now.
LFP just has a charging voltage which you may call bulk or absorption from lead acid terms.
There are 1001 cv requirements based on brands and cell tech. Many datasheets will say 3.65v in the west. When they make it specifically for Africa and Asia they reduce. Even in the west people change their settings to lower cv. Practical setting for cv 3.45v-3.5v.

LFP doesn't feed floating for simple reason that LFP doesn't like to stay near 100% for long since it reduces lifespan. In the west, many let their cv stay for 6mins when complete and let it go down and settle at 3.35v. If your inverter forces you to float, set it at 3.35-3.40v. That's sweet área for us for long lifespan.

But since e de shark us for head to de see 100% for battery screen, we love to leave it to float near full so that when sun goes down we are near capacity. I also set my cv and float to same though i know its not best practice.
That's why i put cv and float low at 3.45v. I know the disadvantage but me too want near full by evening. Just fooling myself coz in most LFP discharge curve, even that 3.45v is almost same as 3.35v.

you’re been too paranoid. I don’t know how old you are but I’m sure you’d probably be long dead before your LFP cells hits 70% DOD.

Everybody should just do whatever they feels is right for them.

fuckboys:
you’re been too paranoid. I don’t know how old you are but I’m sure you’d probably be long dead before your LFP cells hits 70% DOD.

Everybody should just do whatever they feels is right for them.

Not every caution is a clinical paranoia coz be like you wan talk se i don de mad 🤣.
You take cautions for your personal car coz you want it to last and not coz you are paranoid.

Meanwhile I'm 38. Saying i won't see my battery get 70% DOD mean se you wan make i die before 60 years . Oga, u no good aswearrrr lol

RickyM:
Good morning great people
Please which type of WiFi dongle works for this Firman Inverter?
It’s a 3kw 24V transformer based

Please can anyone help with this?
I’m asking on behalf of someone please

These inverters are relatively new.
Probably not enough users on the forum yet.
Why not ask the manufacturer? They are a local company

RickyM:
Please can anyone help with this?
I’m asking on behalf of someone please

Trippledots:
I have. My logical reason for that was that the set float voltage or maximum voltage on the CC was higher than the maximum BMS voltage. So the BMS trips, the cells voltage drop just enough to restart the BMS and the cycle repeats.

Solution

Since I use a battery monitor that plots real time graph of voltage and current, I studied the rippling voltage, took note of the voltage the battery drops to before restarting, and then adjusted my float voltage to that value.

The ripples stopped.

I use a sachet inverter that didn't or can't give you codes, rather it was going off and on. That's how I even knew something was wrong. That sachet inverter is quite rugged from my experience.

You were correct. I followed your lead and adjusted my charge controller parameters likewise. Reduced my bulk/float below balancing voltage, no more weird spikes in voltage.

Thanks Bro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zC7Yl5H_FLQ?si=wbExid0zMALT9Xze

Good evening house. Please this JA solar and ZN solar on fouani, are they okay. I can't find any jinko there again and I need an alternative

Cc
Dam5reey, ask4bk, bassdow, HeavenlyBang, Trippledots, Edrizz

Valentinooo:
Good evening house. Please this JA solar and ZN solar on fouani, are they okay. I can't find any jinko there again and I need an alternative

Cc
Dam5reey, ask4bk, bassdow, HeavenlyBang, Trippledots, Edrizz

They are all good Chinese companies.

Valentinooo:
Good evening house. Please this JA solar and ZN solar on fouani, are they okay. I can't find any jinko there again and I need an alternative

Cc
Dam5reey, ask4bk, bassdow, HeavenlyBang, Trippledots, Edrizz

Both are reputable brands...

24v 8.5kwh and 7.5kwh

24v 3.6kwh 660k......

Good morning fellow enthusiasts,
I need the most budget friendly inverter that can

1. invert 12V DC into 220v AC
2. Use Grid power to charge backup battery when available and switchover to solar when appropriate.

Th set up is just 300w panel, PWM controller and 100AH battery.

{PASTED AGAIN FOR ATTENTION}