₦airaland Forum

Hello, I already have a BLUETTI EB55 Portable Power Station | 700W 537Wh. I want to attach solar panels to charge it and also use the extra solar power during the day to power minor appliances. Kindly provide insights what to set up

dollarnaira:
The question is : what is your max load?
The way 12v is degraded makes it look as if it can only power a fan. The poster above is right though as per comparing 48v to 12v. But that angle of thicker cable is too too exaggerating as if you will keep buying thicker cables everyday. Thicker cable is only needed from inverter to cc to battery-- not up to 1metre. Some persons here don't need large amount of energy generated daily and their batteries hardy go below 70% for months especially during dry season. Some even run loads below 600w but are on a 48v system. Check out the following:

Blender: 500w ( few minutes)
2 32" TVs 70w
Washing machine : 300w (few minutes)
Freezer 115w
3 Fans
Iron 300w
Bulbs 30w
Etc

Will you turn on all the above on a 12v system? NO. But major loads like tv, lightings,fans, iron or washing machine will run smoothly without issues. Is it affordable? Cost effective.

Most of us leave appliances on when not in use. These ones struggle abroad to manage loads as energy don't come cheap over there.

Some have not even try out a 12v personally but made conclusions based on YouTube videos and those who waste energy.

Your tank will run dry if a leaked tap is not fixed urgently. View energy as a water tank.

Will you turn on all the above on a 48v system? YES YES YES with all loads turned on including bigger loads not mentioned. Not cost effective and almost 4times the cost of 12v. Note, there are 96v systems.

Note: If your budget is fit for 48v or higher enjoy your investment.

Lastly for emphasis, the type of continuous load you want to run without load shedding determines the type system you will install. But be aware that 80% of our daily needs will run smoothly on a 12v system.

N.B: I run a 0.5hp sumo via a 12v 3kva Satchet inveter everyday for 4 to 6mins. All my loads are off grid.

Na who get sense dey use solar.

According to abuzz33's explanation, I should go for a 48v system since I need 3.6kwh of backup power. So, what do you recommend?

Max continuous load shouldn't be more than 500w (230 watts gaming laptop, fridge, TV, fan, DSTV, bulbs). The gaming laptop should use half of 230 watts when not playing games as I use it for work too. I excluded high power appliances that will only be used for short periods of time like electric iron, blender, etc. I have a non-inverter 1HP AC that will only be used when grid power is available.

Also, I won't use my laptop for 24 hours daily. I'll get tired of using it and turn it off for a few hours. The same applies to the TV. The fridge also uses less power after a few hours since it doesn't utilize as much power to maintain its current temperature as it does to reach it.

But let's just say it's 500 watts. What would you recommend, 12v, 24v, or 48v?

This is the best thread on this platform. It's so much educative

abuzz33:
Manufacturers limit 12V inverters to around 2KVA or 1600W which in DC terms requires cables that can carry 133A. That requires a 35MM DC cable. 150A or 1800W requires a 50MM cable for runs of 1M.. 1600W max load is not a lot. A fridge can easily require 1200W just to start and if you combine that with a TV (120W), Decoder (30W), Fan (75W), lighting (100W) its cutting it close. You definitely cannot run a fridge and freezer together.

Its why with 12V systems you have to carefully calculate your load profile and manage your setup because they DRASTICALLY LIMIT the load you can put on them. Its also the reason why manufacturers came up with the solar generator form factor because 12V works best as a plug-in to devices with a well-defined power profile.

Baba leave manufacturers.
Get cells and confirm.
There is difference between paper and practical. My 500w inverter will run freezer, washing machine, and a 32" tv simultaneously. Inverter pass Inverter bros.

Get efficient appliances and enjoy less power draw. The 75w you posted is for my 3 Fans ooo. Modern 100L freezers are now 89w or less, 200L is even around 120w and are just times 5 start up surge.

Manufacturers of year 2000 will edit their documents during this era of efficient appliances.

Leave online write ups get physical.

Charley2020:
According to abuzz33's explanation, I should go for a 48v system since I need 3.6kwh of backup power. So, what do you recommend?

Max continuous load shouldn't be more than 500w (230 watts gaming laptop, fridge, TV, fan, DSTV, bulbs). The gaming laptop should use half of 230 watts when not playing games as I use it for work too. I excluded high power appliances that will only be used for short periods of time like electric iron, blender, etc. I have a non-inverter 1HP AC that will only be used when grid power is available.

Also, I won't use my laptop for 24 hours daily. I'll get tired of using it and turn it off for a few hours. The same applies to the TV. The fridge also uses less power after a few hours since it doesn't utilize as much power to maintain its current temperature as it does to reach it.

But let's just say it's 500 watts. What would you recommend, 12v, 24v, or 48v?

Really sorry bro, I don't recommend as you have the ultimate power of choice. The answer lies in the above message.

dollarnaira:
Baba leave manufacturers.
Get cells and confirm.
There is difference between paper and practical. My 500w inverter will run freezer, washing machine, and a 32" tv simultaneously. Inverter pass Inverter bros.

Get efficient appliances and enjoy less power draw. The 75w you posted is for my 3 Fans ooo. Modern 100L freezers are now 89w or less, 200L is even around 120w and are just times 5 start up surge.

Manufacturers of year 2000 will edit their documents during this era of efficient appliances.

Leave online write ups get physical.

Even if 12V serves your power need, what about the limit it places on your solar setup? Your charge controller will take only 25% of the solar power it will take at 48V when you use it in a 12V system. For anyone starting out, start with 48V if you have the means. One of my major mistakes when I started my solar journey many years ago was starting with 24V due to fears about the cost of batteries. I have since moved to 48V.

adrusa:
Even if 12V serves your power need, what about the limit it places on your solar setup? Your charge controller will take only 25% of the solar power it will take at 48V when you use it in a 12V system. For anyone starting out, start with 48V if you have the means. One of my major mistakes when I started my solar journey many years ago was starting with 24V due to fears about the cost of batteries. I have since moved to 48V.

life na stages bro.. i see no reason y someone cant use a 12v system and who says cc will limit.. u.... the lowest cc i have come across can accommodate 600w while other tend to rise up to 1600w... enough to charge batteries and power loads... bread hybrid inverter takes above 1kw of solar input.. so.... u just have to check ur consumption and know wen 2 upgrade

abuzz33:
Manufacturers limit 12V inverters to around 2KVA or 1600W which in DC terms requires cables that can carry 133A. That requires a 35MM DC cable. 150A or 1800W requires a 50MM cable for runs of 1M.. 1600W max load is not a lot. A fridge can easily require 1200W just to start and if you combine that with a TV (120W), Decoder (30W), Fan (75W), lighting (100W) its cutting it close. You definitely cannot run a fridge and freezer together.

Its why with 12V systems you have to carefully calculate your load profile and manage your setup because they DRASTICALLY LIMIT the load you can put on them. Its also the reason why manufacturers came up with the solar generator form factor because 12V works best as a plug-in to devices with a well-defined power profile.

For most people, especially grid tied, a 12v system is great. You can run a freezer(200w) and a blender(500) watts simultaneously on a 1kw(continuous power) inverter.

You might say the initial surge, but that's totally dependent on your inverter surge capacity and more importantly you battery bank.

Except you need to draw over 1kw continuously for a long duration, a 12v system is perfectly fine. 12v systems are suitable for loads below 1kw.

How will you have a 48v system and only have 5kwh battery capacity. Personally I have used and currently using my 12v systems as it suits my load.

Left to me if your battery bank is less than 5w manage your loads and stick to a 12v system

For a 24v system your minimum battery capacity should be about 10 to 15kw bank

For 48v from 15kw upward

Of what use is a system you can't fully utilize its capacity.

all types available

Charley2020:
According to abuzz33's explanation, I should go for a 48v system since I need 3.6kwh of backup power. So, what do you recommend?

Max continuous load shouldn't be more than 500w (230 watts gaming laptop, fridge, TV, fan, DSTV, bulbs). The gaming laptop should use half of 230 watts when not playing games as I use it for work too. I excluded high power appliances that will only be used for short periods of time like electric iron, blender, etc. I have a non-inverter 1HP AC that will only be used when grid power is available.

Also, I won't use my laptop for 24 hours daily. I'll get tired of using it and turn it off for a few hours. The same applies to the TV. The fridge also uses less power after a few hours since it doesn't utilize as much power to maintain its current temperature as it does to reach it.

But let's just say it's 500 watts. What would you recommend, 12v, 24v, or 48v?

Are you aware of the battery costs ?
It's not about 12v or 24v or 36v, or 48, or 96v... What matters is your load. Why not list out your load so we know what exactly we suggesting. 48v might be feasible for one while it's 12v for another.
You could even run 12v system but with slim wires WHILE another person with same 12v system would require thicker wires.

Mind you, if you require a 2kva inverter, and you went for a 5kva inverter, you not just wasting money, that system (especially the inverter) wouldn't be efficient at all. of course nothing bad if you have plans for the nearest future expansion BUT you need know what you doing.

Had an Epever eTracer 60A charge controller that I bought many years ago when all I had then was just 2 pcs of 150-watts Mono Solar panels. My plan was to buy once so while upgrading other things in future, I would already have a big enough charge controller. Guess what, the charge controller went bad long before I had a need to upgrade at all. Actually went bad due to a fault from ma own end BUT either way, that was a big misManagement of funds. Of course my knowledge then and now ain't same at all. Neither were we opportuned to have a place to learn as a lot of people do today

dacool1:
For most people, especially grid tied, a 12v system is great. You can run a freezer(200w) and a blender(500) watts simultaneously on a 1kw(continuous power) inverter.

You might say the initial surge, but that's totally dependent on your inverter surge capacity and more importantly you battery bank.

Except you need to draw over 1kw continuously for a long duration, a 12v system is perfectly fine. 12v systems are suitable for loads below 1kw.

How will you have a 48v system and only have 5kwh battery capacity. Personally I have used and currently using my 12v systems as it suits my load.

Left to me if your battery bank is less than 5w manage your loads and stick to a 12v system

For a 24v system your minimum battery capacity should be about 10 to 15kw bank

For 48v from 15kw upward

Of what use is a system you can't fully utilize its capacity.

Kindly emphasis on the Grid Tied inverter (what we call Hybrid inverter). Also anyOne going your route need be sure they know what they're doing else na regular battery Customer dem go be

adrusa:
Even if 12V serves your power need, what about the limit it places on your solar setup? Your charge controller will take only 25% of the solar power it will take at 48V when you use it in a 12V system. For anyone starting out, start with 48V if you have the means. One of my major mistakes when I started my solar journey many years ago was starting with 24V due to fears about the cost of batteries. I have since moved to 48V.

Most of us struggle to afford a single mid-range battery. Now imagine having to buy a minimum of 4-batteries.
And costs increase exponentially hence as you increase battery voltage, charge controller and inverter and solar panels dey wait for you.

For those who got the means BUT ain't doing so, most times ignorance, and or the installer is to blame as most focus more on optimizing their personal gains.

This thread is always very interesting as we get to learn every day from different perspectives.

I would like to know please, if a hybrid inverter has the ability to supply power to a home in the absence of battery backup, does it mean it can also wake up a lithium battery in a case of bms shutdown due to low voltage?

Another question, if your hybrid inverter can charge your battery from grid when turned off, does it mean it can also wake up your battery from grid in the case of a bms shutdown?

Just seeking knowledge from the learned.

bassdow:
Are you aware of the battery costs ?
It's not about 12v or 24v or 36v, or 48, or 96v... What matters is your load. Why not list out your load so we know what exactly we suggesting. 48v might be feasible for one while it's 12v for another.
You could even run 12v system but with slim wires WHILE another person with same 12v system would require thicker wires.

Mind you, if you require a 2kva inverter, and you went for a 5kva inverter, you not just wasting money, that system (especially the inverter) wouldn't be efficient at all. of course nothing bad if you have plans for the nearest future expansion BUT you need know what you doing.

Had an Epever eTracer 60A charge controller that I bought many years ago when all I had then was just 2 pcs of 150-watts Mono Solar panels. My plan was to buy once so while upgrading other things in future, I would already have a big enough charge controller. Guess what, the charge controller went bad long before I had a need to upgrade at all. Actually went bad due to a fault from ma own end BUT either way, that was a big misManagement of funds. Of course my knowledge then and now ain't same at all. Neither were we opportuned to have a place to learn as a lot of people do today

Thank you admitted that the charge controller got spoilt cos d fault was from your own end. So if the fault was from your own end, why are you advising him not oversize his system just incase of extra load addition in the future?

If you didn't make the mistake, your charge controller wouldn't have gone faulty. What has that got to do with oversizing his system? You sounded as if oversizing one's system is a bad investment or waste of money? Please make me understand you clearly

brightk:
life na stages bro.. i see no reason y someone cant use a 12v system and who says cc will limit.. u.... the lowest cc i have come across can accommodate 600w while other tend to rise up to 1600w... enough to charge batteries and power loads... bread hybrid inverter takes above 1kw of solar input.. so.... u just have to check ur consumption and know wen 2 upgrade

My solar array is currently 12KW with harvest reaching above 10KW many times. If I'm on a 12V system, I will need like 5 or 6 high current charge controllers and my amperage will often exceed 500 to 800A. That amount of current in a home is a serious fire risk. If you intend to stay in the 1-2KVA range with small appliances, 12V will be okay for you. But if you ever plan on growth, you will one day regret not heeding the advice to go to 48V from the set go. Remember, you won't be a student/bachelor forever.

adrusa:
My solar array is currently 12KW with harvest reaching above 10KW many times. If I'm on a 12V system, I will need like 5 or 6 high current charge controllers and my amperage will often exceed 500 to 800A. That amount of current in a home is a serious fire risk. If you intend to stay in the 1-2KVA range with small appliances, 12V will be okay for you. But if you ever plan on growth, you will one day regret not heeding the advice to go to 48V from the set go. Remember, you won't be a student/bachelor forever.

Correct. I regret going with a 24v system and I'm already planning on upgrading to 48v.

It's not like 48v is even noticeably more expensive than 24v at identical specs. Max 200k more across the board.

adrusa:
My solar array is currently 12KW with harvest reaching above 10KW many times. If I'm on a 12V system, I will need like 5 or 6 high current charge controllers and my amperage will often exceed 500 to 800A. That amount of current in a home is a serious fire risk. If you intend to stay in the 1-2KVA range with small appliances, 12V will be okay for you. But if you ever plan on growth, you will one day regret not heeding the advice to go to 48V from the set go. Remember, you won't be a student/bachelor forever.

shey na one day person de turn adult.. oga take am easy.. ur needs are not piples needs

CuteMaro:
This thread is always very interesting as we get to learn every day from different perspectives.

I would like to know please, if a hybrid inverter has the ability to supply power to a home in the absence of battery backup, does it mean it can also wake up a lithium battery in a case of bms shutdown due to low voltage?

Another question, if your hybrid inverter can charge your battery from grid when turned off, does it mean it can also wake up your battery from grid in the case of a bms shutdown?

Just seeking knowledge from the learned.

Not all Hybrid inverters can supply power directly from Solar panels hence you need be sure your model has that feature. Don't forget, output from Solar panel ain't always steady.

As for waking a sleepy BMS, or the one that's gone into protection mode, it all depends on what actually happen

brightk:
shey na one day person de turn adult.. oga take am easy.. ur needs are not piples needs

Thank you ja`re. na talk like this dey discourage people. Imagine trying to make people believe 12v system is not worth it.

Me ma sef get 3 setUps and 12v setUp has always been a part of them. Like I said earlier, it all boils down to ones requirements + financial capacity. As per whether the 12KW na audio or not, that's none of ma business

HeavenlyBang:
Correct. I regret going with a 24v system and I'm already planning on upgrading to 48v.

It's not like 48v is even noticeably more expensive than 24v at identical specs. Max 200k more across the board.

Told a distant neigbour (over 5 streets away) you're better off wiring 4 batteries in series to get 48v200AH than to wire in 2S2P to get 24v400AH but e allow another more professional person convince am otherwise. I kukuma no dey get interest tell people wetin dem wan hear. With the load wey I see, na to just wait for complain later.
24v na mostly for those wey no fit afford 4-batteries (if lead acid) or 48v (if lithium) or say true true your load small.

Ofejiro20:
Thank you admitted that the charge controller got spoilt cos d fault was from your own end. So if the fault was from your own end, why are you advising him not oversize his system just incase of extra load addition in the future?

If you didn't make the mistake, your charge controller wouldn't have gone faulty. What has that got to do with oversizing his system? You sounded as if oversizing one's system is a bad investment or waste of money? Please make me understand you clearly

If you had read to understanding, you would have understood what angle I'm coming from. Yea mine got bad thanks to my constant need to experiment. Same thing that lead to my partially killing a brand new PC less than 4-months after purchase BUT today, I'm enjoying the rewards of those experiments.

That mine got bad due to my own doing, doesn't mean others own wouldn't go bad for one reason or the other. A lot of peoples' charge controllers dey burn or spoil for different reasons such as thunder / lighting storm.
Now imagine you're the kind who choose to really oversize for future purposes, especially when your finances are super tight; when I got into solar as a user, I did calculations almost on daily basis because my pocket was super slim.
How you go come feel when the charge controller or inverter or whatever goes bad and worse still, beyond repair ?
Imagine say you buy 5KVA inverter rather than 1.5KVa or even 2KVa; or an 80amp charge controller instead of one of 40amps.

Mind you, depending on your inverter type, you fit even experience clipping.

e get reason why when I suggest overSizing, it's mostly on Solar panels and even at that, One still need know there are limits else you experience exponential increments across other areas because even your charge controller get it's limits.

Bottom line be say make you know wetin you dey do, and why you dey do am. No need blindly following others because everyOne's needs are different and everyOne's financial muscle differs also. Some of us need wait till we sell off our used batteries, before we can hustle, add money to it and buy a new one BUT there are people who can afford to replace or upgrade their inverters without having a second thought at all BUT for some people, e go be like say dem Mercedes Benz latest model loss.

Hope I've been able to Confuse and not not Convince you enough

adrusa:
Even if 12V serves your power need, what about the limit it places on your solar setup? Your charge controller will take only 25% of the solar power it will take at 48V when you use it in a 12V system. For anyone starting out, start with 48V if you have the means. One of my major mistakes when I started my solar journey many years ago was starting with 24V due to fears about the cost of batteries. I have since moved to 48V.

Which will you prefer?
50ah at 48v or 314ah at 12v?
Now compare this cost:
314ah 12v and 314ah 48v. Is cost the same?

Get me right, 48v is sweet but not cheap.

I won't say bc 48v is good then I will choose 50ah 48v over 314ah 12v. No b juju b dat? Ultimate goal is to inveter power abi?

Energy needs differs and upgrade is inevitable on any system.

My future upgrade is 4kw at 48v ( 1.5million for cells only). Fund might not be an issue for you. There are other things in life aside energy biko and not to talk of this "sweet" economy.

THE ISSUE WITH YOU IS THAT YOU SEE THINGS ONLY FROM YOUR POCKET ONLY.

My concerns go to those with basic knowledge in solar. What a pity?

dacool1:
For most people, especially grid tied, a 12v system is great. You can run a freezer(200w) and a blender(500) watts simultaneously on a 1kw(continuous power) inverter.

You might say the initial surge, but that's totally dependent on your inverter surge capacity and more importantly you battery bank.

Except you need to draw over 1kw continuously for a long duration, a 12v system is perfectly fine. 12v systems are suitable for loads below 1kw.

How will you have a 48v system and only have 5kwh battery capacity. Personally I have used and currently using my 12v systems as it suits my load.

Left to me if your battery bank is less than 5w manage your loads and stick to a 12v system

For a 24v system your minimum battery capacity should be about 10 to 15kw bank

For 48v from 15kw upward

Of what use is a system you can't fully utilize its capacity.

Great point.

This is a nice angle of view.

adrusa:
My solar array is currently 12KW with harvest reaching above 10KW many times. If I'm on a 12V system, I will need like 5 or 6 high current charge controllers and my amperage will often exceed 500 to 800A. That amount of current in a home is a serious fire risk. If you intend to stay in the 1-2KVA range with small appliances, 12V will be okay for you. But if you ever plan on growth, you will one day regret not heeding the advice to go to 48V from the set go. Remember, you won't be a student/bachelor forever.

So a student or bachelor with less appliances plus less salary should go 48v of any ah right?

It is like renting a 4 bedroom flat as a student or bachelor just bc you will get married in 7 years time. Make una dey watch wetin una dey talk jor.

bassdow:
Thank you ja`re. na talk like this dey discourage people. Imagine trying to make people believe 12v system is not worth it.
Me ma sef get 3 setUps and 12v setUp has always been a part of them. Like I said earlier, it all boils down to ones requirements + financial capacity. As per whether the 12KW na audio or not, that's none of ma business

no let adrusa vex ooo.

bassdow:
Told a distant neigbour (over 5 streets away) you're better off wiring 4 batteries in series to get 48v200AH than to wire in 2S2P to get 24v400AH but e allow another more professional person convince am otherwise. I kukuma no dey get interest tell people wetin dem wan hear. With the load wey I see, na to just wait for complain later.
24v na mostly for those wey no fit afford 4-batteries (if lead acid) or 48v (if lithium) or say true true your load small.

People no dey ever hear word, unfortunately.

dacool1:
For most people, especially grid tied, a 12v system is great. You can run a freezer(200w) and a blender(500) watts simultaneously on a 1kw(continuous power) inverter.

You might say the initial surge, but that's totally dependent on your inverter surge capacity and more importantly you battery bank.

Except you need to draw over 1kw continuously for a long duration, a 12v system is perfectly fine. 12v systems are suitable for loads below 1kw.

How will you have a 48v system and only have 5kwh battery capacity. Personally I have used and currently using my 12v systems as it suits my load.

Left to me if your battery bank is less than 5w manage your loads and stick to a 12v system

For a 24v system your minimum battery capacity should be about 10 to 15kw bank

For 48v from 15kw upward

Of what use is a system you can't fully utilize its capacity.

I have issues with ur 24v and 48v hypothesis. Anyone doing 24v sudnt do above 5 to 7.5kwh battery normally. Anything above is better on a 48v system.
I also have a 5kva48v system with a 5kwh battery system and it serves my needs well so ur saying 15kw upward isnt an objective one. In the end, solar is about knowing ur loads and setting up accordingly

Good day house, how many KWH of lithium battery can I get with about 1.8m

dollarnaira:
Which will you prefer?
50ah at 48v or 314ah at 12v?
Now compare this cost:
314ah 12v and 314ah 48v. Is cost the same?

Get me right, 48v is sweet but not cheap.

I won't say bc 48v is good then I will choose 50ah 48v over 314ah 12v. No b juju b dat? Ultimate goal is to inveter power abi?

Energy needs differs and upgrade is inevitable on any system.

My future upgrade is 4kw at 48v ( 1.5million for cells only). Fund might not be an issue for you. There are other things in life aside energy biko and not to talk of this "sweet" economy.

THE ISSUE WITH YOU IS THAT YOU SEE THINGS ONLY FROM YOUR POCKET ONLY.

My concerns go to those with basic knowledge in solar. What a pity?

314ah at 12v is not the same as 314ah at 48v, 314ah at 12v has same capacity as 80ah at 48v

TSHIRT2:
Good day house, how many KWH of lithium battery can I get with about 1.8m

17kwh if you are going the DIY route

On the issue of battery voltage selection, the determining factor is the user load, I started with 12v before upgrading to 24v and now 48v. I personally think most people requiring a solar setup will be fine with 24v setups as it can power most household loads and there is room for future upgrades. It is also almost as cheap as a 12v setup