₦airaland Forum

I started with a 12v setup using a 60a mppt charge controller and 2 400w solar panels, the charging setup was not efficient as the charge controller ran hot almost all the time, when I upgraded my system to 24v, my controller temperature ran considerably cooler as output voltage has increased while current has decreased. You are also limited to 700w if you are using a sachet inverter with external 60a charge controller as someone pointed out earlier thereby needing to buy another controller if you want to add another array to your existing setup. A 12v hybrid inverter has room for additional panel capacity though

Penuelseun:
17kwh if you are going the DIY route

From which vendor, do u sell or any one here that sell at that price

brightk:
shey na one day person de turn adult.. oga take am easy.. ur needs are not piples needs

I kept saying "IF YOU HAVE THE MEANS", but some of you are ignoring that. the basic truth is that 48V is more efficient compared to 12V. However, cost is an important factor. However, again IF YOU HAVE THE MEANS, go for 48V even if you set up is not that big now. Remember that when you are ready to upgrade, you may end up having to discard your 12V gears or sell them off cheaply.

Consider my case. I once paid about half a million for 24V Outback VFX inverter. When I decided to upgrade, I had to let the inverter go cheaply. Most people with serious solar setup do 48V, so I couldn't get to sell it at a good price. I also had to get rid of some 12/24V Epever charge controllers and other accessories including 24V bulk converters.

If you are setting up solar system at this time, there is a chance you may be setting up a proper home in 3 years or even less. Your current gears may not be easily upgradable to meet your need then. So, if cost isn't such a serious limitation, go for 48V, you could just upgrade without having to throw anything away or sell cheap.

Of course, if your setup is small and cost is a problem, go for whatever you can afford. My very first home setup was a discarded UPS and two UPS batteries in parallel. It used to power only my TV and Sound system. I later graduated to two car batteries and a 24V Mercury inverter. When I got some money, I stumbled into 24V Outback inverter, a decision I regret to this day.

Please how much can I get the Deriy battery, and can my 1.5kva luminous inverter work with it?

Dam5reey:
My Reviews were never sponsored, I paid fully as regular buyers do.
If it was sent by Company I will mention it, just as I did for POWMR, Seller sent to me.

Haisic, Deriy, Cworth, Taico, LVTOPSUN, I paid in full.

After reviews many come for where to get products, I seize the opportunity to sell as well.

Penuelseun:
On the issue of battery voltage selection, the determining factor is the user load, I started with 12v before upgrading to 24v and now 48v. I personally think most people requiring a solar setup will be fine with 24v setups as it can power most household loads and there is room for future upgrades. It is also almost as cheap as a 12v setup

12v is like Core i3 while 24v is like Core i5 (difference exists but subtle depending on workload; though most wouldn't notice even in price) and 48v is like Core i7 (depending on what generation, and workload, difference might be subtle or not - and by that I mean if doing 2s2p on 24v vs 1s1p on 48v)

I know you do understand I'm comparing computer processors (Core i*) to battery Voltages

dacool1:
For most people, especially grid tied, a 12v system is great. You can run a freezer(200w) and a blender(500) watts simultaneously on a 1kw(continuous power) inverter.

You might say the initial surge, but that's totally dependent on your inverter surge capacity and more importantly you battery bank.

Except you need to draw over 1kw continuously for a long duration, a 12v system is perfectly fine. 12v systems are suitable for loads below 1kw.

How will you have a 48v system and only have 5kwh battery capacity. Personally I have used and currently using my 12v systems as it suits my load.

Left to me if your battery bank is less than 5w manage your loads and stick to a 12v system

For a 24v system your minimum battery capacity should be about 10 to 15kw bank

For 48v from 15kw upward

Of what use is a system you can't fully utilize its capacity.

Size your backup system according to your needs. A 12v inverter can support even a 15kwh backup system but can only pull up to 1500w at a time from it. But question you should ask is do you want to be pulling 125a from batteries in a 12v setup using 35mm cable or 31.2a in a 48v setup using 16mm cable?

Then to charge your 15kwh battery bank via solar you will need to buy lots of separate charge controllers.

Battery makers build sizes based on typical usage which is why you see lots of 100ah and 200ah 12v lifepo4 batteries suggesting much lower continuous loads (100-200wh) for 12v systems. The largest I have seen so far is a 310ah lifepo4 battery

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376327100934

So if you need 3.5kwh backup like the poster asked there are simpler 12v solutions that dont require paralleling 100ah or 200ah lifepo4 batteries. 310ah is almost 4kwh.

Hi

avatarg6:
Hello, I already have a BLUETTI EB55 Portable Power Station | 700W 537Wh. I want to attach solar panels to charge it and also use the extra solar power during the day to power minor appliances. Kindly provide insights what to set up

TSHIRT2:
From which vendor, do u sell or any one here that sell at that price

Contact @valto

avatarg6:
Hello, I already have a BLUETTI EB55 Portable Power Station | 700W 537Wh. I want to attach solar panels to charge it and also use the extra solar power during the day to power minor appliances. Kindly provide insights what to set up

According to BLUETTI, you can only use a max of 200Watts Solar input for this system. Now the question you should be asking is whether it supports usage while being charged. If it does support usage while being charged then you can do the maths.

Let’s assume you bought a 200watts panel that has a 75% efficiency i.e., 150Watts is the highest you can get from the 200watts. With 7 hours of daily sunlight (ideally), you can generate:
150Watts × 7hours = 1050Wh
537Wh for the battery and 513Wh available for 7 hours of sunlight.
Meaning that you can charge the system and still use it for some light loads like charging your phone, laptop etc during day time. Practically, you can decide to put only a maximum of 50Watts load while charging the system with solar. Meaning that the remaining 100watts can be channeled to charge the battery full in about 6hours.

Additionally, from experience, I’d advise you don’t use the inverter/higher AC output during this time of charging. This is because, you’ll lose some power if you turn on its inverter, and this is due to conversion losses.

Charley2020:
According to abuzz33's explanation, I should go for a 48v system since I need 3.6kwh of backup power. So, what do you recommend?

Max continuous load shouldn't be more than 500w (230 watts gaming laptop, fridge, TV, fan, DSTV, bulbs). The gaming laptop should use half of 230 watts when not playing games as I use it for work too. I excluded high power appliances that will only be used for short periods of time like electric iron, blender, etc. I have a non-inverter 1HP AC that will only be used when grid power is available.

Also, I won't use my laptop for 24 hours daily. I'll get tired of using it and turn it off for a few hours. The same applies to the TV. The fridge also uses less power after a few hours since it doesn't utilize as much power to maintain its current temperature as it does to reach it.

But let's just say it's 500 watts. What would you recommend, 12v, 24v, or 48v?

If your setup will not change much over the years, then go for something like:

- Welion Eco-2000 1600W 12V hybrid 80a MPPT inverter which allows you to panel up to 2000W and has 4000VA surge
- 5 x 400W Panels or 3 x 650W panels
- 25mm DC cables
- CWorth 300Ah 12V LIFEPO4 battery (3.84KWh)

But if you plan to expand later, go for a 24V or 48V inverter that can support a much larger solar array (6000W+). Why? You can always use it for multiple applications or sell it.

In terms of batteries which are expensive, save your money. Battery prices are crashing now with lithium oversupply and innovation. LIFEPO4 batteries are now around $100/KWh down from $120-150 in 2024 such that those companies that you see selling 5KWh batteries for N900K ($600) in Nigeria are still making profits.

With CATL about to start producing Sodium Ion batteries, the time is coming that batteries will cost $30 per KWh meaning a 5KWh battery will cost $150 or N225,000 naira and last 15 years.

What this means is that people should, if possible, plan for solar as MAINs with NEPA serving as backup.

abuzz33:
If your setup will not change much over the years, then go for something like:

- Welion Eco-2000 1600W 12V hybrid 80a MPPT inverter which allows you to panel up to 2000W and has 4000VA surge
- 5 x 400W Panels or 3 x 650W panels
- 25mm DC cables
- CWorth 300Ah 12V LIFEPO4 battery (3.84KWh)

But if you plan to expand later, go for a 24V or 48V inverter that can support a much larger solar array (6000W+). Why? You can always use it for multiple applications or sell it.

In terms of batteries which are expensive, save your money. Battery prices are crashing now with lithium oversupply and innovation. LIFEPO4 batteries are now around $100/KWh down from $120-150 in 2024 such that those companies that you see selling 5KWh batteries for N900K ($600) in Nigeria are still making profits.

With CATL about to start producing Sodium Ion batteries, the time is coming that batteries will cost $30 per KWh meaning a 5KWh battery will cost $150 or N225,000 naira and last 15 years.

What this means is that people should, if possible, plan for solar as MAINs with NEPA serving as backup.

what about improvements on national grid that might have occurred by then ? abi we no want get hope at all for this corn3 ?

Charley2020:
Nah, I need a minimum of 3.6 kwh battery power. And since most people here don't recommend 12v systems, I don't want to go for that either. Thanks for the detailed response though.

There is 3.6kwh 12v battery available in the market now. Pair that with a hybrid 12v 1.5kva inverter. That would serve if your load is not more than the inverter can handle.

avatarg6:
Hello, I already have a BLUETTI EB55 Portable Power Station | 700W 537Wh. I want to attach solar panels to charge it and also use the extra solar power during the day to power minor appliances. Kindly provide insights what to set up

What's the maximum PV power it can allow? That and your running load will determine if you can add more panels and charge your battery while paying your load.

Charley2020:
According to abuzz33's explanation, I should go for a 48v system since I need 3.6kwh of backup power. So, what do you recommend?

Max continuous load shouldn't be more than 500w (230 watts gaming laptop, fridge, TV, fan, DSTV, bulbs). The gaming laptop should use half of 230 watts when not playing games as I use it for work too. I excluded high power appliances that will only be used for short periods of time like electric iron, blender, etc. I have a non-inverter 1HP AC that will only be used when grid power is available.

Also, I won't use my laptop for 24 hours daily. I'll get tired of using it and turn it off for a few hours. The same applies to the TV. The fridge also uses less power after a few hours since it doesn't utilize as much power to maintain its current temperature as it does to reach it.

But let's just say it's 500 watts. What would you recommend, 12v, 24v, or 48v?

My suggestion. Leave the AC on grid, ensure your iron is not high wattage.

Get a hybrid 12v 1.5va system with atleast 1.5kwp of PV.

dollarnaira:
Which will you prefer?
50ah at 48v or 314ah at 12v?
Now compare this cost:
314ah 12v and 314ah 48v. Is cost the same?

Get me right, 48v is sweet but not cheap.

I won't say bc 48v is good then I will choose 50ah 48v over 314ah 12v. No b juju b dat? Ultimate goal is to inveter power abi?

Energy needs differs and upgrade is inevitable on any system.

My future upgrade is 4kw at 48v ( 1.5million for cells only). Fund might not be an issue for you. There are other things in life aside energy biko and not to talk of this "sweet" economy.

THE ISSUE WITH YOU IS THAT YOU SEE THINGS ONLY FROM YOUR POCKET ONLY.

My concerns go to those with basic knowledge in solar. What a pity?

@bolded. If you purchase the cells directly from China and diy, you can get up to 14kwh for less than #2m

TSHIRT2:
Good day house, how many KWH of lithium battery can I get with about 1.8m

14kwh.

TSHIRT2:
From which vendor, do u sell or any one here that sell at that price

Mr Reed couples at fantastic rates.

bassdow:
what about improvements on national grid that might have occurred by then ? abi we no want get hope at all for this corn3 ?

Are you seeing what's happening in Australia and California where they have stable grid? 30% of Australian households have home solar systems. Or what about China with 888GW of Solar power capacity. We have stupid government. I expect that the same way they couldn't run a centralized phone network is the same way TCN will end up as backup. You will see lots of rooftop solar and mini grids.

https://www.visualcapitalist.com/ranked-the-countries-with-the-most-solar-power-installed/

abuzz33:
Size your backup system according to your needs. A 12v inverter can support even a 15kwh backup system but can only pull up to 1500w at a time from it. But question you should ask is do you want to be pulling 125a from batteries in a 12v setup using 35mm cable or 31.2a in a 48v setup using 16mm cable?

Then to charge your 15kwh battery bank via solar you will need to buy lots of separate charge controllers.

Battery makers build sizes based on typical usage which is why you see lots of 100ah and 200ah 12v lifepo4 batteries suggesting much lower continuous loads (100-200wh) for 12v systems. The largest I have seen so far is a 310ah lifepo4 battery

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376327100934

So if you need 3.5kwh backup like the poster asked there are simpler 12v solutions that dont require paralleling 100ah or 200ah lifepo4 batteries. 310ah is almost 4kwh.

There is a 12v hybrid that accepts up to 2kw of PV power, and 500v of max PV.

Technology is improving.

If this inverter was available when I upgraded my setup last year, I probably would have stuck to a 12v system.

BigDickProblems:
According to BLUETTI, you can only use a max of 200Watts Solar input for this system. Now the question you should be asking is whether it supports usage while being charged. If it does support usage while being charged then you can do the maths.

Let’s assume you bought a 200watts panel that has a 75% efficiency i.e., 150Watts is the highest you can get from the 200watts. With 7 hours of daily sunlight (ideally), you can generate:
[b]150Watts × 7hours = 1050Wh
537Wh for the battery and 513Wh available for 7 hours of sunlight. [/b]
Meaning that you can charge the system and still use it for some light loads like charging your phone, laptop etc during day time.Practically, you can decide to put only a maximum of 50Watts load while charging the system with solar. Meaning that the remaining 100watts can be channeled to charge the battery full in about 6hours.

Additionally, from experience, I’d advise you don’t use the inverter/higher AC output during this time of charging. This is because, you’ll lose some power if you turn on its inverter, and this is due to conversion losses.

I've found out a neat rule of thumb to estimate daily PV harvest for panels is PV capacity*3

So for instance a 500w rated panel will give 1.5kwh daily, on the average.

BangaRice:
go ahead.

What's your power load?

bassdow:
Told a distant neigbour (over 5 streets away) you're better off wiring 4 batteries in series to get 48v200AH than to wire in 2S2P to get 24v400AH but e allow another more professional person convince am otherwise. I kukuma no dey get interest tell people wetin dem wan hear. With the load wey I see, na to just wait for complain later.
24v na mostly for those wey no fit afford 4-batteries (if lead acid) or 48v (if lithium) or say true true your load small.

Generally from experience, 24v serves the average Nigerian home.

It allows ease of maintenance (it's easier to buy 2 batteries than 4) this conception is coming from the aspects of cost.

If you enter problem, you go under the advantage better



The funniest thing is we don't get to use am much load as we think we use.

Trippledots:
There is a 12v hybrid that accepts up to 2kw of PV power, and 500v of max PV.

Technology is improving.

If this inverter was available when I upgraded my setup last year, I probably would have stuck to a 12v system.

Do care to share the brand?

jikaseo:
Please how much can I get the Deriy battery, and can my 1.5kva luminous inverter work with it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPqEPySsHu4?si=slHsBsSLq3dQ2FoE

See the review, its available

What you guys think about this Samsung INR21700-50S/50G cells both from a price, usable capacity, and quality point ?

@Dam5reey, @Dollarnaira, @Valto

dollarnaira:
Do care to share the brand?

my bread hybrid inverter 1.5kva 12v

2000w Pv power
500voc max Pv
100a mppt.

2500w surge power
1500w continues power.( i can comfim this cos I've done 1,300w continues power draw)

Paired with a 3.6kwh LFP battery.

Gives a 24v setup a run for its money.

dollarnaira:
Do care to share the brand?

The 2kva inverters like sako, powmr, sms, welion come with panel limit of 2000w and voc of 500v

Dear all,
please which one is better out 5kwh /25.6v, 200ah and 7.6kwh /25.6V ,300AH.
Advise is needed ,
thanks

solareclips:
Dear all,
please which one is better out 5kwh /25.6v, 200ah and 7.6kwh /25.6V ,300AH.
Advise is needed ,
thanks

7.6kwh is 50% larger.

HeavenlyBang:
7.6kwh is 50% larger.

Thanks
what different does the AH made, 300ah and 200ah , also comparing thesam battery with 48v and 24v of the same inverter kva

Pls what's the cost of this inverter

fuckboys:
my bread hybrid inverter 1.5kva 12v

2000w Pv power
500voc max Pv
100a mppt.

2500w surge power
1500w continues power.( i can comfim this cos I've done 1,300w continues power draw)

Paired with a 3.6kwh LFP battery.

Gives a 24v setup a run for its money.