₦airaland Forum

FEGEITOK:
When you wire your panels in parallel —connecting all the positive terminals together and all the negatives together—you force them all to run at the same voltage.The problem is, the entire group gets dragged down to the lowest voltage of any single panel you have. This means those higher-wattage panels that should be running at a higher voltage are essentially throttled, which cuts down their power output.The good news with parallel wiring, though, is that the current (the flow of electricity) from every single panel still gets to add up. So, even though it's not ideal, you usually get a higher overall power output than you would from a badly mismatched series setup.

Now, looking at your setup—1,110W worth of panels (150W, 180W, 200W, etc.) only spitting out less than 400W —that's a huge loss.

That kind of severe drop-off is the classic sign of a Series Wiring problem (or a complex mix of series and parallel) where the different panel specs are creating a massive mismatch loss.

One panel is essentially choking the others.

When you connect your panels in series—wiring the positive of one panel to the negative of the next—you are forcing the same amount of current (or amperage) through every single one.

The biggest issue is that the entire line gets limited by the "slowest" panel, meaning the one that produces the lowest current. Those bigger, higher-wattage panels are essentially throttled. They are forced to run at the lower current of the weakest link, which seriously cuts down how much power they can actually put out.

Try again with one of the 2 530W panels disconnected!

And report back to the house

He should at least inform us of his charge controller's capacity

FEGEITOK:
That's good advice; you absolutely need a higher-capacity charge controller (CC).

When I first got my hybrid inverter, I never even used its built-in CC because it was too restrictive. I knew I wanted to add more and bigger panels down the road than it could handle. That's actually why I bought my first external charge controller in the first place.

It was smart of you to get an external CC, but based on the specs of your current panels, it sounds like your existing one is undersized.What you do next really comes down to your budget: Do you get a bigger and better CC? Do you upgrade to a more powerful hybrid inverter? Or maybe you need to rethink the whole setup—like switching from a 12V to a 24V system, or just re-configuring the panels you already have so they actually work for you.

On top of all that, we have another potential issue: how are your panels connected? For example, those 530W x 2 panels. I've personally run panels that exceeded the CC's maximum power rating, and it never overheated. It just capped the output when it hit the limit because the voltage was in the safe range.

I eventually reduced my panel count to match that CC's capacity and moved the extra panels to a second charge controller, which feeds a separate inverter and its own battery bank.

Finally, what's the voltage of each panel? You might have actually exceeded the maximum voltage your charge controller can safely handle.

At the bolded, shey you know say Charge controllers get grade and level. Some no fit even handle slight stress, let alone this.

Darey00:
Hi, I use this same PowrMr 60A mppt for my folks at home. I use 2 * 420w panels in series which means I can only get 70A in theory ( 53 - 58A real-world after losses, cloud cover etc) so I'm still in range.

Your panels are too much for the controller at 88A theoritical and > 60A after adjusted for real-world conditions.


I myself have 2*585w panels in series but with an hybrid inverter of 100A capability.

One way out is to sell off the 60A controller and get an 80A-rated one.

If you want, you can also sell the inverter and controller and get an hybrid inverter rated > 80A .
I use Bread, it has 100A mppt and costs around 200k.

The big panels will be beneficial when you want to upgrade to 24v.

I also had 300w panels before and sold them

Not how current works. In fact, I'm pretty certain this entire thing is a voltage issue.

Input voltage range in 12v is 20-80v like someone else pointed out.

bassdow:
At the bolded, shey you know say Charge controllers get grade and level. Some no fit even handle slight stress, let alone this.

In fact it's pretty silly that the MPPT has a different VOC for 12v, 24v, 48v.

This is probably the cheapest decent MPPT on the market (it's $70 on AliExpress right now for anyone interested) so it makes sense that it'd have tighter tolerances.

bbally:
You are wrong with the bolded. You total pv voltage on 12v system must not get to 80v it not your CC will be tripping off if it's not fried.

The best to do with your current panels is to connect it in series.

If the above checks out, during the high yield between 11am - 1pm, check if your wires are not hot to touch, if it does that means the current you are generating is higher than what your cable can carry. So change it to a quality wire because that is most likely why your CC temp was so high and instead of damaging your CC, it tripped off to cool the temp naturally, then resume operation later.

*Parallel u meant

They are currently connected in parallel.
The cable does not get hot at all, whether in series or parallel, I use 10mm cable
The tripping off is mostly when connected in series, I just reconfigured to parallel yesterday, I'll observe

BigDickProblems:
I am really curious about this issue of yours.

Are your cables thick enough?
I am guessing that this issue might be coming from your cable as well since you said you also paralleled the system.

I would really advise you parallel them (since you said the two VOc exceeds 80V) since the VOc of both in series exceeds 80v and according to the CC manual attached below.

So parallel them and try a thicker cable than the present one before you take any other decision, cos any other decision will cost you more (if you are on budget).

Yes, they are currently connected in parallel
Cable used is 10mm and it doesn't get hot at all
It was in series before when it was tripping off frequently. I'll observe

bassdow:
He should at least inform us of his charge controller's capacity

Charge controller is powmr 60A mppt controller with max voltage for 12v to be 80v as pointed out

HeavenlyBang:
Not how current works. In fact, I'm pretty certain this entire thing is a voltage issue.

Input voltage range in 12v is 20-80v like someone else pointed out.



In fact it's pretty silly that the MPPT has a different VOC for 12v, 24v, 48v.

This is probably the cheapest decent MPPT on the market (it's $70 on AliExpress right now for anyone interested) so it makes sense that it'd have tighter tolerances.

I've reconfigured to parallel, hopefully the issue will stop


I'll update the group

BigDickProblems:
From my ever-learning knowledge so far, 530watts panels is not suitable for your 12v system. Panels of 18V Maximum power voltage and open circuit voltage (VOc) around 22V-24V which are usually in the range of 180-200Watts are most suitable.

You 530Watts panels definitely overloading the controller and thereby causing the overheating in the controller for it trip off.

You must have followed the advise of getting a big panel and not the smaller ones.

With adequate charge controller you can use any size of solar panel

Dharyhor:
*Parallel u meant

They are currently connected in parallel.
The cable does not get hot at all, whether in series or parallel, I use 10mm cable
The tripping off is mostly when connected in series, I just reconfigured to parallel yesterday, I'll observe

It would certainly trip off because the cumulative voltage of the two panels would have crossed the threshold of the CC at 12v which is said to be 80v same thing would occur if current of a system is exceeded, so u are better of using d two panels in a parallel connection since it doesn't trip or better still use a singular panel for the 12v system n keep the other panel pending ur upgrade

Edrizz:
It would certainly trip off because the cumulative voltage of the two panels would have crossed the threshold of the CC at 12v which is said to be 80v same thing would occur if current of a system is exceeded, so u are better of using d two panels in a parallel connection since it doesn't trip or better still use a singular panel for the 12v system n keep the other panel pending ur upgrade

Yes bro, they are currently connected in parallel and it hasn't tripped today so far

mctfopt:
With adequate charge controller you can use any size of solar panel

You are right. I’ve learnt that too. The VOc of the CC and panel is what anyone must consider, and in his own case, the voltage from the series arrangement is way above the required VOc.

Dharyhor:
Yes bro, they are currently connected in parallel and it hasn't tripped today so far

How did it go today?

BigDickProblems:
From my ever-learning knowledge so far, 530watts panels is not suitable for your 12v system. Panels of 18V Maximum power voltage and open circuit voltage (VOc) around 22V-24V which are usually in the range of 180-200Watts are most suitable.

You 530Watts panels definitely overloading the controller and thereby causing the overheating in the controller for it trip off.

You must have followed the advise of getting a big panel and not the smaller ones.

this is not true, even if a 1000w panel exists, it would work with 12v setup. The most important aspect is meeting the parameters of the CC.

fuckboys:
this is not true, even if a 1000w panel exists, it would work with 12v setup. The most important aspect is meeting the parameters of the CC.

True.

While I initially connected an oversized array—2100 Watts (W) of panel output—to the same charge controller, the Open-Circuit Voltage remained within the controller's specifications.

The controller handled this by clipping the output power to its maximum capacity, ranging from 1.0 kW to 1.3 kW, without experiencing shutdown or overheating.

I later reduced the array size to 1.4 kW, and it now performs as expected, consistently outputting between 1.0 kW and 1.3 kW.

fuckboys:
this is not true, even if a 1000w panel exists, it would work with 12v setup. The most important aspect is meeting the parameters of the CC.

You are right, I’ve corrected myself on that already.

BigDickProblems:
How did it go today?

It didn't trip off at all and the generation was good
The issue was from going above 80v for 12v system
Thanks chief

Thanks Valto cells received more business to you amen

Dharyhor:
It didn't trip off at all and the generation was good
The issue was from going above 80v for 12v system
Thanks chief

You are welcome Boss. We learn everyday.

Good evening house. I am quite new to this solar journey and I want to get a solar panel, inverter and battery. It is for a four bedroom apartment. I have plan to upgrade as time goes by, probably adding more solar panel and also battery( though I don’t want tabular battery) . I am on band A, and I don’t mind using Nepa along with it in the initial stage until I fully upgrade. Please what will you recommend for a budget of 2m. Thanks all

Check out this product, it is a solar generator inverter with built-in charger and works with or without solar panel to provide backup power for your electrical devices. . Additional information is available on the website at https://store.braynec.com.
They are currently running a promotion so that if you buy now, a FREE voltage regulator/volt meter is included with the purchase to protect your appliance.

Check it out as it may suit your needs.

https://store.braynec.com

HeavenlyBang:
Third one.

Whenever you want to increase battery capacity, you can just buy an extra 24v battery and parallel them.

Trafford:
Good evening house. I am quite new to this solar journey and I want to get a solar panel, inverter and battery. It is for a four bedroom apartment. I have plan to upgrade as time goes by, probably adding more solar panel and also battery( though I don’t want tabular battery) . I am on band A, and I don’t mind using Nepa along with it in the initial stage until I fully upgrade. Please what will you recommend for a budget of 2m. Thanks all

List the load u intend powering with the system to ease recommendations n experts input

Edrizz:
List the load u intend powering with the system to ease recommendations n experts input

Everything in the house, like TVs and blending machine, then also fan and lightings. No pumping machine and no AC for now until next year when I start upgrading

Are there any invertrs that can work with 16.8V or 4S lithium Ion battery system.
Preferably cheaper ones.

bassdow:
you tell us your system voltage
Also your max budget

A typical multi-voltage charge controller has the following specs

800w @ 12v
1,600w @ 24v
2,400w @ 36v
3,200w @ 48v

of course you still got to consider the Vmp and Voc

Hopefully, I understood your question both previous and current

My inverter is a 24v inverter,max voc is 160v while the max pv array power is 1600w and my budget for panels is like 250k....I don't want to go above the voc and max pv array power,that's why I am being careful

bassdow:
At the bolded, shey you know say Charge controllers get grade and level. Some no fit even handle slight stress, let alone this.

Hi bassdow. Happy sunday. Please I need your quick input on this before I spend another money. My team of installer are saying the DC solar PV cable I got is not good enough. I bought the 6mm² cable. Two other installers I got quotation from both wrote 6mm² cable for the solar pv cables so I don't know why these people are saying the cable is not enough. Panel is 590watts.

FEGEITOK:
On what exactly?

The kind of solar panels configurations

Trafford:
Everything in the house, like TVs and blending machine, then also fan and lightings. No pumping machine and no AC for now until next year when I start upgrading

Since u will be charging with grid for now, I would suggest u get sako,cworth or an advanced brand like deye 6kw 48v hybrid inverter and a 5kwh lithium battery like Sako, Deriy or reach out to valto if u would like to go diy route

BangaRice:
Are there any invertrs that can work with 16.8V or 4S lithium Ion battery system.
Preferably cheaper ones.

Max I've seen is 15.5v.

Edrizz:
Since u will be charging with grid for now, I would suggest u get sako,cworth or an advanced brand like deye 6kw 48v hybrid inverter and a 5kwh lithium battery like Sako, Deriy or reach out to valto if u would like to go diy route

Thank you. I have upgraded budget to 2.5m so as to include solar panel. I am being offered 5kva hybrid inverter and 5kwh battery. Both felicity, with 6 500w solar panel. Is that a good deal?

Trafford:
Thank you. I have upgraded budget to 2.5m so as to include solar panel. I am being offered 5kva hybrid inverter and 5kwh battery. Both felicity, with 6 500w solar panel. Is that a good deal?

For battery I'd suggest you maybe read back a few pages or go on tiktok and search DIYWITHRAY, particularly his battery capacity test videos.

Most popular brands are notorious for malpractice in actual capacity. Please try and watch the videos. You'll understand what I am trying not to say 😂

Unfaized:
For battery I'd suggest you maybe read back a few pages or go on tiktok and search DIYWITHRAY, particularly his battery capacity test videos.

Most popular brands are notorious for malpractice in actual capacity. Please try and watch the videos. You'll understand what I am trying not to say 😂

Wow, so I should avoid felicity and cworth and the likes

micxwell:
Hi bassdow. Happy sunday. Please I need your quick input on this before I spend another money. My team of installer are saying the DC solar PV cable I got is not good enough. I bought the 6mm² cable. Two other installers I got quotation from both wrote 6mm² cable for the solar pv cables so I don't know why these people are saying the cable is not enough. Panel is 590watts.

If you are connecting your panels in series, then 6mm² is more than enough.