₦airaland Forum

8 way breaker box. Can accomodate 4 units of 2P (double pole) breaker or SPD
Price: 5,000

Tomzn 2P 600V DC SPD
Price: 12,500

Tomzn 2P 275V AC SPD
Price: 10,000

Tomzn 2P 60A adjustable over/under voltage protective device
Price: 13,000

DIY-lovers and handy folks, you need to have this Hydraulic Crimp in your tool kit. It comes with 8 sets of die to crimp cable lugs from 4mm2 to 70mm2.

30k


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWY7Tpk8A1U?si=kqsU9QxOJxOjfRNe

1. Digital Timer Switch
Price: 10,500
You can use this device to set the time, duration and even date that certain devices (such as referigerator, starlink, etc) come on and go off. Particularly useful when you have to go to work or go bed, but you want those devices to come on and go off by themselves.

2. Power Meter
Price: 13,000
Use this device to see how much your appliances consume in watts. You can also input your energy bill in kwh and track how much it costs you to run an appliance on a daily, weekly or monthly basis

3. 60a PowMr MPPT Solar Charge Controller (Updated firmware version)
Price: 85,000
Comes with complimentary battery voltmeter worth 4,000

Please can you post a pic

HeavenlyBang:
DIY IS expensive.

There's the monetary expense that comes with buying tools and materials at retail prices, and then the time expense, opportunity cost, actual stress and effort plus having to troubleshoot when things eventually go wrong.

Recently I wanted to build a 12v battery to use as an auxiliary battery on my car. By the time I calculated the things involved, I jeje went to buy it from a guy selling it on the lithium thread. It was much cheaper than if I'd tried to build it myself, simply because I don't even have the tools.

On a side note, using lead acid + LFP in parallel on a car seems to work like a charm. LFP handles the idle drain, while the LA takes over when cranking.

How did you achieve this cause I have been trying to replace my car lead acid battery

HeavenlyBang:
DIY IS expensive.

There's the monetary expense that comes with buying tools and materials at retail prices, and then the time expense, opportunity cost, actual stress and effort plus having to troubleshoot when things eventually go wrong.

Recently I wanted to build a 12v battery to use as an auxiliary battery on my car. By the time I calculated the things involved, I jeje went to buy it from a guy selling it on the lithium thread. It was much cheaper than if I'd tried to build it myself, simply because I don't even have the tools.

On a side note, using lead acid + LFP in parallel on a car seems to work like a charm. LFP handles the idle drain, while the LA takes over when cranking.

My powmr wont give more than 280watt to my 12v 100ah lifepo4 battery. Even when I put a 300watt load on my inverter and my multimeter gives 31v and 19amps

Gshems:
My powmr wont give more than 280watt to my 12v 100ah lifepo4 battery. Even when I put a 300watt load on my inverter and my multimeter gives 31v and 19amps

size of solar panels? Absorb voltage?

Gshems:
My powmr wont give more than 280watt to my 12v 100ah lifepo4 battery. Even when I put a 300watt load on my inverter and my multimeter gives 31v and 19amps

Charging at 19amps, and a charging voltage of 14.7V-14.8V (it doesn’t need all the 31V) is what gives you the 280watts. Besides, is this not enough to charge your battery ?🙃.
Lols. You want fast charging 😜.
Doing the maths 280watts will get your battery full in 4hrs and 30something minutes. Practically 9am to 2pm.

There is nothing else to add since you didn’t provide enough details. But it would be cool if you provide your panel(s) specs and configuration.

BigDickProblems:
Charging at 19amps, and a charging voltage of 14.7V-14.8V (it doesn’t need all the 31V) is what gives you the 280watts. Besides, is this not enough to charge your battery ?🙃.
Lols. You want fast charging 😜.
Doing the maths 280watts will get your battery full in 4hrs and 30something minutes. Practically 9am to 2pm.

There is nothing else to add since you didn’t provide enough details. But it would be cool if you provide your panel(s) specs and configuration.

panel is 2 250watt and 1 350watt in parallel, absorption and float @14.4v. Yes, my battery gets full but sometimes I want to power a 300watt load, even in very good sunlight my load is greater than what the panel is producing. Note: the 350 watts panel is not up to 350watt, it has a voc of 40v. So I ran it in parallel with the 2, 250watts panel. Multimeter readings from the panels is showing something higher but the charge controller no dey give pass 280

Hybrid600:
Please can you post a pic

Ferdiwar:
How did you achieve this cause I have been trying to replace my car lead acid battery

Just ran the cable from the battery terminal to the glove compartment where the LFP sits. Have both terminals slightly exposed so I can still take readings and monitor. Since it's in parallel with a lead acid, voltage drops down to 12.1v after abut 72 hours of idle drain but car starts just fine regardless.

Keep in mind that this is a quite different project from using LFP as a sole starter battery.

Also recently replaced the li-ion battery on my rechargeable fan with a 12v12aH LFP. The li-ion (claimed to be 8aH) originally replaced a LA battery but after about six months of use seemed to have lost some capacity (originally lasted 11 hours on lowest speed but was barely lasting 6-7 hours by the 5-month mark).

Only issue with the LFP so far is that the fan only charges at about 13.3v, which is for sure not enough to get LFP to 100%. After charging overnight, battery sits at 13.2v--generally about 75-80% SOC. Not ideal but even 75% SOC still gives me about 115Wh. Enough to get me through an entire night if need be.

Aside from the fact that I can't even afford anything at the moment. But considering cost, i know a jumpstarter is multipurpose, but then a new battery and a jumpstarter cost almost around the same range, maybe few thousands naira difference but not much, I'm the type of person that sits in my car, put it on accessory mode only to listen to music or charge my phone.. I can't do that anymore because the car would probably not start due to weak battery.

Drgreatone:
Why not just get a jump starter. My battery has bin doing same for abt 6mths now if i leave it for 48hrs or more idle. I got the jumpstart 4mths back and its bin bliss. Once it doesn't crank, na to use jumpstart and the battery has bin fine so far

I own a 2006 Acura Tsx with a 4 cylinder engine.
Since it's a 20ah battery, i want to assume the battery would be very small enough to fit into the glove box and also be able to fit other things in the glove box..

What's the price range and make of the 20ah battery?

HeavenlyBang:
Ran the cables from the engine bay to the glove compartment. Right now it's a 75AH lead acid in parallel with an 18AH LFP, the LFP sits inside the glove compartment due to space and thermal constraints.

So far so good. LFP battery supposedly has a 20a dumb BMS, though I haven't opened it up to check. Car itself is a Mercedes and has an intelligent charge control unit so charging is pretty safe. The LFP charges at around 13.7v to 14.1v for the most part, which is within spec.

You don't need to configure anything, the LFP just acts as a buffer for the idle drain. Please do your tests properly, since I don't know what car you'd be using it on.

JoeSef0:
I own a 2006 Acura Tsx with a 4 cylinder engine.
Since it's a 20ah battery, i want to assume the battery would be very small enough to fit into the glove box and also be able to fit other things in the glove box..

What's the price range and make of the 20ah battery?

Bought from
https://www.nairaland.com/9ijaprince

You may need an external charger to charge it initially.

Gshems:
panel is 2 250watt and 1 350watt in parallel, absorption and float @14.4v. Yes, my battery gets full but sometimes I want to power a 300watt load, even in very good sunlight my load is greater than what the panel is producing. Note: the 350 watts panel is not up to 350watt, it has a voc of 40v. So I ran it in parallel with the 2, 250watts panel. Multimeter readings from the panels is showing something higher but the charge controller no dey give pass 280

Definitely not your cc.
Seek for other factors.

dollarnaira:
Diy of Africa Nigeria Lagos Ikorodu
4kwh wey pump water. Na sense

most lfp can do 3C easily. That's a lot of current and will carry many things. Even cook beans. Weldone.

HeavenlyBang:
Also recently replaced the li-ion battery on my rechargeable fan with a 12v12aH LFP. The li-ion (claimed to be 8aH) originally replaced a LA battery but after about six months of use seemed to have lost some capacity (originally lasted 11 hours on lowest speed but was barely lasting 6-7 hours by the 5-month mark).

Only issue with the LFP so far is that the fan only charges at about 13.3v, which is for sure not enough to get LFP to 100%. After charging overnight, battery sits at 13.2v--generally about 75-80% SOC. Not ideal but even 75% SOC still gives me about 115Wh. Enough to get me through an entire night if need be.

My fear when considering the idea of replacing LA with LFP is the fact that some LA charging system will try to charge the battery at higher than 14.7V(maximum of LA 12V system). That high volage if feed into LFP can do damages. Another way out is BMS, but BMS for LFP dont come so cheap.

Gshems:
panel is 2 250watt and 1 350watt in parallel, absorption and float @14.4v. Yes, my battery gets full but sometimes I want to power a 300watt load, even in very good sunlight my load is greater than what the panel is producing. Note: the 350 watts panel is not up to 350watt, it has a voc of 40v. So I ran it in parallel with the 2, 250watts panel. Multimeter readings from the panels is showing something higher but the charge controller no dey give pass 280

What is the Rating of your Charge controller?

BigDickProblems:
What is the Rating of your Charge controller?

60a

Gshems:
60a

Ok, there are 2 things involved.

It’s either you set your charging current on the controller to 20Amps. This is why you keep getting 280watts at most (meaning it is charging with the battery voltage of 14.4V-14.8V and a current of about 19Amps).

Or your panel(s) is bad. If this is the case after you have confirmed the first reason above, I urge you check the open-circuit voltage of those panels using a multimeter, as well as their short-circuit currents (better call a solar person around to do this for you if you are a novice). This will let you know if any of your panels is bad or not.

Gshems:
My powmr wont give more than 280watt to my 12v 100ah lifepo4 battery. Even when I put a 300watt load on my inverter and my multimeter gives 31v and 19amps

Na someone using the same controller fit advice you. That controller almost ran me mad.

This is what I simply did: Disconnect the battery cable from the cc and reconnect it after some minutes. The controller will automatically pick the battery best settings: And also check your batteries connection is well tightened (if it DIY battery, you have to check connector from inside the pack to see if the nuts are fitted very well).

The controller is designed to work automatically without tampering with settings. I hope this helps

HawkTuahGirl:
Na someone using the same controller fit advice you. That controller almost ran me mad.

This is what I simply did: Disconnect the battery cable from the cc and reconnect it after some minutes. The controller will automatically pick the battery best settings: And also check your batteries connection is well tightened (if it DIY battery, you have to check connector from inside the pack to see if the nuts are fitted very well).

The controller is designed to work automatically without tampering with settings. I hope this helps

really?

BigDickProblems:
Ok, there are 2 things involved.

It’s either you set your charging current on the controller to 20Amps. This is why you keep getting 280watts at most (meaning it is charging with the battery voltage of 14.4V-14.8V and a current of about 19Amps).

Or your panel(s) is bad. If this is the case after you have confirmed the first reason above, I urge you check the open-circuit voltage of those panels using a multimeter, as well as their short-circuit currents (better call a solar person around to do this for you if you are a novice). This will let you know if any of your panels is bad or not.

I have used a multimeter to measure, and everytime the multimeter give me higher wattage but once connected to the charge controller, I won't get more that 280watts

Gshems:
really?

D only setting you can change is D04 depending on the type of battery - 00 for other batteries and for 01 for lithium.

Gshems:
I have used a multimeter to measure, and everytime the multimeter give me higher wattage but once connected to the charge controller, I won't get more that 280watts

No, try to understand that I am referring to the open circuit voltages and shortcut circuit currents of each of you panels. Check these values to confirm that they are ok. This way you can know if the problem is coming from any of your panel.

If eventually your panels are ok, and you’ve adjusted the charging current setting on your CC to maybe 50-60Amps, then it’s a different problem all together.

Have always had an issue of short circuit with my input and of recent my output. Currently use a 2.5mm wire and sometimes I draw up to 85amp. My question is what's my ideal wire size for that ampage or my 2.5mm might not be original?

Machiny:
Have always had an issue of short circuit with my input and of recent my output. Currently use a 2.5mm wire and sometimes I draw up to 85amp. My question is what's my ideal wire size for that ampage or my 2.5mm might not be original?

Buy "single core" Coleman.

dollarnaira:
Buy "single core" Coleman.

size?

HawkTuahGirl:
Na someone using the same controller fit advice you. That controller almost ran me mad.

This is what I simply did: Disconnect the battery cable from the cc and reconnect it after some minutes. The controller will automatically pick the battery best settings: And also check your batteries connection is well tightened (if it DIY battery, you have to check connector from inside the pack to see if the nuts are fitted very well).

The controller is designed to work automatically without tampering with settings. I hope this helps

Thanks for pointing out the bolded. I once talk about that brand and some people wan make I spend energy begin explain wetin me sef no really understand

Machiny:
Have always had an issue of short circuit with my input and of recent my output. Currently use a 2.5mm wire and sometimes I draw up to 85amp. My question is what's my ideal wire size for that ampage or my 2.5mm might not be original?

some body don suggest am here already say it's better to buy higher than what you require hence if you [think you] need 2.5mm, go for 4mm. if the strands of the wires are too slim, just pick single core.

if the cable is for solar panel to charge controller, the Alumium type should do except money ain't part of your major issues

Hello house, good evening from here.

my 100AH, 12v Cworth battery and 2kva 12v SMS inverter are having variation in voltage. The battery is reading 13.0v while the inverter is reading 12.5v with beeping.

Please what is the possible cause and what should I do?