₦airaland Forum

It doesn't show on the inverter, even when I leave the inverter screen on the interface were the pump load in kilowatt will show before switching on the pump the only tin that shows is the Amt the pump is pulling currently which is 1.9kw sometimes it fluctuate BTW 1.9kw and 1.8kw

adimx:
Ok. Try check what the initial 2-5 Seconds power draw is on your 1.5hp pump is and let me know.

Thanks bro.

osayuwamwen:
It doesn't show on the inverter, even when I leave the inverter screen on the interface were the pump load in kilowatt will show before switching on the pump the only tin that shows is the Amt the pump is pulling currently which is 1.9kw sometimes it fluctuate BTW 1.9kw and 1.8kw

Alright boss.
Maybe that is the type of thing watt meters are built for.

Dabss:
Anywhere I see pictures of a fresh tubular battery installation, your name is what pops up in my mind.

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
WTF?

How can I unsee this?
OMG 😂

I salute una

Please I'm not crazy, but I want to DIY a carport/shed with solar panels.

Any tips?

I'm thinking about 4x2 or 3x1.5 H-channel beams, but I want to know the experience of others here who may have done such projects.

Regards

Tdoctor:
I salute una

Please I'm not crazy, but I want to DIY a carport/shed with solar panels.

Any tips?

I'm thinking about 4x2 or 3x1.5 H-channel beams, but I want to know the experience of others here who may have done such projects.

Regards

First get yourself a good workMan who knows their onion well enough. Then let them give you a quote stating size of the required materials.
now ensure the H-channel beams and angle irons are of required thickness else those things sooner than later would begin to bend. Have seen a lot of them in such pitiful condition.

And if you have basic commonSense, you could just get a welder, and supervise the entire thing. It's how I do ma things most times.

But would suggest you employ service of those who are in that line of business as this design requires knowing what you doing

I

Tdoctor:
I salute una

Please I'm not crazy, but I want to DIY a carport/shed with solar panels.

Any tips?

I'm thinking about 4x2 or 3x1.5 H-channel beams, but I want to know the experience of others here who may have done such projects.

Regards

The first example.

I think that connector between the one coming out of the ground and the one housing the panels is too short and too thin.

I may be wrong

FEGEITOK:
I

The first example.

I think that connector between the one coming out of the ground and the one housing the panels is too short and too thin.

I may be wrong

Those are not my setups. They are pictures I got online. Im just looking for ideas

bassdow:
First get yourself a good workMan who knows their onion well enough. Then let them give you a quote stating size of the required materials.
now ensure the H-channel beams and angle irons are of required thickness else those things sooner than later would begin to bend. Have seen a lot of them in such pitiful condition.

And if you have basic commonSense, you could just get a welder, and supervise the entire thing. It's how I do ma things most times.

But would suggest you employ service of those who are in that line of business as this design requires knowing what you doing

Sometimes people use materials out of fear and not based on calculations. For instance, it was from this thread that I started using aluminium for my solar wiring, with zero problems. I remember you saying aluminium can also be used for wiring solar panels and I'll try that out. I believe the advantages of copper are its superior bendability and conductivity (especially), but the superiority is not that much, and with bigger core aluminium cables which is far cheaper, you can get the same level or higher conductivity.

I see a lot of people using H-channels for car ports. Is it done based on calculations or based on fear? I don't want to throw money away, like someone using a 100-mm copper cable to wire a 5kw inverter. I want to justify the expense.
Thanks

Tdoctor:
Sometimes people use materials out of fear and not based on calculations. For instance, it was from this thread that I started using aluminium for my solar wiring, with zero problems. I remember you saying aluminium can also be used for wiring solar panels and I'll try that out. I believe the advantages of copper are its superior bendability and conductivity (especially), but the superiority is not that much, and with bigger core aluminium cables which is far cheaper, you can get the same level or higher conductivity.

I see a lot of people using H-channels for car ports. Is it done based on calculations or based on fear? I don't want to throw money away, like someone using a 100-mm copper cable to wire a 5kw inverter. I want to justify the expense.
Thanks

Aluminium is a lot CHEAPer + Good enough when you doing high voltage setUp. na mostly back in the days when solar cables carries more CURRENT than VOLTAGE that one should bother about cable's conductivity. Imagine spending over 100,000 naira to buy copper cable for a high voltage setUp when aluminium cable (NEPA wire) that's thick enough costs way way less than 40%.

There's reason NEPA uses Aluminium and not copper. YES we know copper is more superior BUT that superiority doesn't always matter especially in high voltage setUps like most do nowAdays.

Most in a bid to save costs, ends up buying cheap copper cables some of which are Aluminium coated with copper; or the guage is low.

if you got the money to afford quality COPPER and want to satisfy your conscience or ego, go for that original copper ELSE Aluminium is quite good enough. na mostly those wey dey sell am want to continually make you believe otherwise.

And na wetin I dey use from day 1 despite not doing high voltage

bassdow:
Aluminium is a lot CHEAPer + Good enough when you doing high voltage setUp. na mostly back in the days when solar cables carries more CURRENT than VOLTAGE that one should bother about cable's conductivity. Imagine spending over 100,000 naira to buy copper cable for a high voltage setUp when aluminium cable (NEPA wire) that's thick enough costs way way less than 40%.

There's reason NEPA uses Aluminium and not copper. YES we know copper is more superior BUT that superiority doesn't always matter especially in high voltage setUps like most do nowAdays.

Most in a bid to save costs, ends up buying cheap copper cables some of which are Aluminium coated with copper; or the guage is low.

if you got the money to afford quality COPPER and want to satisfy your conscience or ego, go for that original copper ELSE Aluminium is quite good enough. na mostly those wey dey sell am want to continually make you believe otherwise.

And na wetin I dey use from day 1 despite not doing high voltage

Copper is best, getting original is going to be hard.

Kaczynski:
Copper is best, getting original is going to be hard.

shortCut to getting original is to look for network Cables from brands such as ericsson. You know them by their flat shape and contains 3 wires inside one of which is earth. New or USEd is okay.

Funny enough, a lot of inverters in the market ain't full copper BUT people no dey know

Kaczynski:
Copper is best, getting original is going to be hard.

that COPPER is BEST, doesn't mean that BEST is absolutely necessary in all situations. Even NEPA / PHCN uses aluminium.

Once again, I see very little reason using Copper for High voltage setUps especially when funds are not adequate. That money should be spent on getting quality inverters, solar panels, and other things. And if you must use copper, ensure it's copper and not something that looks like copper or the one that's not complete.
Of course for non highVoltage setUps, the thickness and quality of copper really matters as you carrying more of current than voltage hence want to reduce losses.

It's like doing pile foundation when strip foundation is more than adequate. When you know which is which and WHY, you know when to use the best tool for the right task.

Please people using cworth panels , how is the performance so far are they giving close to there wattage?.

Kaczynski:
Copper is best, getting original is going to be hard.

Original dey market; na mostly price dey pursue people

Tdoctor:
I salute una

Please I'm not crazy, but I want to DIY a carport/shed with solar panels.

Any tips?

I'm thinking about 4x2 or 3x1.5 H-channel beams, but I want to know the experience of others here who may have done such projects.

Regards

Who has tried filling normal pipes with concrete for improved durability at less cost?

Tdoctor:
Who has tried filling normal pipes with concrete for improved durability at less cost?

what you mean by normal pipes ? You mean the iron pipes in those pictures you postetd above abi na plastic pipes you dey talk ?

Either way, no forget say apart from the expensive motor wey go dey under, na expensive solar panels go dey up. Don't end up wasting money, trying to save money.

Why not just use thicker iron pipes or H beams for the stands. once again, just allow those wey e be their work do their thing. Then una fit rub minds together to see what adjustments and improvements can be done

bassdow:
what you mean by normal pipes ? You mean the iron pipes in those pictures you postetd above abi na plastic pipes you dey talk ?

Either way, no forget say apart from the expensive motor wey go dey under, na expensive solar panels go dey up. Don't end up wasting money, trying to save money.

Why not just use thicker iron pipes or H beams for the stands. once again, just allow those wey e be their work do their thing. Then una fit rub minds together to see what adjustments and improvements can be done

You just spoke my mind.

bassdow:
what you mean by normal pipes ? You mean the iron pipes in those pictures you postetd above abi na plastic pipes you dey talk ?

Either way, no forget say apart from the expensive motor wey go dey under, na expensive solar panels go dey up. Don't end up wasting money, trying to save money.

Why not just use thicker iron pipes or H beams for the stands. once again, just allow those wey e be their work do their thing. Then una fit rub minds together to see what adjustments and improvements can be done

Bro, as we speak, I'm combining 48v lfp with 24v tubular in a single installation, and both are supplying power with no issues.
Innovation comes because someone challenges the status quo. Possibly, because of a car port failure, people started using H-beams out of fear without the requisite calculations.
I ask questions. It helps me know why this should be or should not be done.
Is it not possible that H-beams are used for carports like a two-legged table. If the carport will be like a four-legged table, will a H-beam be necessary?
Na question brother dey ask.

Hello everyone

i need a recommendation on which kind of panel i can connect to this ones, i have 6 pieces of this jinko 475w going to like 2 yrs nw. I recently changed my inverter and needed more power bt don't have enough for a new string of panels, so am looking at an option where i can add 2 or 3 more panels to these ones i have .

i don't mind if they are used panels i jst need something similar or that will match these setting on my panels for it to work well.

Am open to suggestions pls and if you have panels to sell that can match these ones i already have pls feel free to gt in touch

Thanks

Tdoctor:
Bro, as we speak, I'm combining 48v lfp with 24v tubular in a single installation, and both are supplying power with no issues.
Innovation comes because someone challenges the status quo. Possibly, because of a car port failure, people started using H-beams out of fear without the requisite calculations.
I ask questions. It helps me know why this should be or should not be done.
Is it not possible that H-beams are used for carports like a two-legged table. If the carport will be like a four-legged table, will a H-beam be necessary?
Na question brother dey ask.

bros we appreciate what you doing and questions you asking. My comments are more to remind you in case you forgot realities. one can never be so sure the other person knows what's involved.

Also I asked what you meant by "Normal Pipes" ? Because if you meant filling iron pipes with cement, then cost wise, it wouldn't be worth it compared to cost of kukuma doing pillar or using H-beams or thicker iron pipes.

BuT if by "Normal Pipes", you meant filling Plastic pipes (probably those big ones used in transporting pupu to septic tank), then I don't know what to say other than without using reinforced iron rods (rebar / TMT) of at least 16mm, or 4pcs of 12mm, it would be useless as concrete is weak without being reinforced. and if you have to use reinforce it with rebar, then adding the plastic pipe becomes unnecessary and waste of money + limits the thickness of the diameter. i know these things because I have handled a couple of building projects.

meanWhile, if that carport is the regular 4 legs type, then I wouldn't be as concerned as I am now BUT those design concepts in pictures you shared above uses the concept of what's called "cantilevered roof" and even in building projects, when not done properly spells disaster.

meanWhile, I love it when people think outside the box and try things outside the norms; so no think say i no appreciate your doings; just ensuring you know what you getting into or attempting.

bassdow:
Aluminium is a lot CHEAPer + Good enough when you doing high voltage setUp. na mostly back in the days when solar cables carries more CURRENT than VOLTAGE that one should bother about cable's conductivity. Imagine spending over 100,000 naira to buy copper cable for a high voltage setUp when aluminium cable (NEPA wire) that's thick enough costs way way less than 40%.

There's reason NEPA uses Aluminium and not copper. YES we know copper is more superior BUT that superiority doesn't always matter especially in high voltage setUps like most do nowAdays.

Most in a bid to save costs, ends up buying cheap copper cables some of which are Aluminium coated with copper; or the guage is low.

if you got the money to afford quality COPPER and want to satisfy your conscience or ego, go for that original copper ELSE Aluminium is quite good enough. na mostly those wey dey sell am want to continually make you believe otherwise.

And na wetin I dey use from day 1 despite not doing high voltage

Please what do you mean by “NEPA wire”

alosbaba007:
Hello everyone

i need a recommendation on which kind of panel i can connect to this ones, i have 6 pieces of this jinko 475w going to like 2 yrs nw. I recently changed my inverter and needed more power bt don't have enough for a new string of panels, so am looking at an option where i can add 2 or 3 more panels to these ones i have .

i don't mind if they are used panels i jst need something similar or that will match these setting on my panels for it to work well.

Am open to suggestions pls and if you have panels to sell that can match these ones i already have pls feel free to gt in touch

Thanks

First of all, I know just understand your question. mayBe becauuse I never chop.

Do you mean you can't afford to completely change the entire solar panels to another of higher capacity e.g 550w hence you just want to buy something even if it's 450w or 475w or whatever to add to the 2pcs you currently have ?

What I would suggest is; first if you are using a hybrid inverter (has inbuilt charge controller) without external charge controller, then you need share with us image of the sticker on the inverter so we know it's capacity and not recommend what could cause issues or be a waste of funds.

BUT if you are using an external charge controller, you need tell us how many amps it is so we don't recommend what's outside it's capacity.

Now for sake of future growth, especially if you would love buying bigger solar panels, would suggest those extra 2pcs or 3pcs be at least 500w or 550w so that later when you want to upgrade, you only remove the 2pcs of 475w; rather than the entire 5pcs of solar panels. Mind you, 475w solar panels are not so popular especially nowadays hence reason I suggested 500w or 550w.


Let's ignore what happens when you mix and matxh solar panels of different wattage as that tradeOff doesn't matter here because of the reason I gave above.

Hopefully this answers your question. if not, then phrase your question properly so some of us go understand.

Don't forget to share the images requested so we don't make suggestions blindly

Ezimuoh:
Please what do you mean by “NEPA wire”

That ash wire that draw light from NEPA pole directly into your compound. it's that wire NEPA cuts when you fail to pay for darkNess Light.

bassdow:
First of all, I know just understand your question. mayBe becauuse I never chop.

Do you mean you can't afford to completely change the entire solar panels to another of higher capacity e.g 550w hence you just want to buy something even if it's 450w or 475w or whatever to add to the 2pcs you currently have ?

What I would suggest is; first if you are using a hybrid inverter (has inbuilt charge controller) without external charge controller, then you need share with us image of the sticker on the inverter so we know it's capacity and not recommend what could cause issues or be a waste of funds.

BUT if you are using an external charge controller, you need tell us how many amps it is so we don't recommend what's outside it's capacity.

Now for sake of future growth, especially if you would love buying bigger solar panels, would suggest those extra 2pcs or 3pcs be at least 500w or 550w so that later when you want to upgrade, you only remove the 2pcs of 475w; rather than the entire 5pcs of solar panels. Mind you, 475w solar panels are not so popular especially nowadays hence reason I suggested 500w or 550w.


Let's ignore what happens when you mix and matxh solar panels of different wattage as that tradeOff doesn't matter here because of the reason I gave above.

Hopefully this answers your question. if not, then phrase your question properly so some of us go understand.

Don't forget to share the images requested so we don't make suggestions blindly

Thanks for the quick response ,

i dont have enough money now for a new string of higher capacity solar panels, i want to make do with what i have for now and plan for an upgrade later on.

my inverter is growatt es 6000

Yes i know 400+ watt panels are nt readily available nowadays, my main concern is getting something that will drag down the other panels because of parameter mismatch, that's my fear.

My aim is to gt 700+watt later on when i have the funds .


Hope my explanation is clear enough now sir. Thanks

alosbaba007:
Thanks for the quick response ,

i dont have enough money now for a new string of higher capacity solar panels, i want to make do with what i have for now and plan for an upgrade later on.

my inverter is growatt es 6000

Yes i know 400+ watt panels are nt readily available nowadays, my main concern is getting something that will drag down the other panels because of parameter mismatch, that's my fear.

My aim is to gt 700+watt later on when i have the funds .


Hope my explanation is clear enough now sir. Thanks

the only solar panel that wouldn't easily drag down your existing 475w solar panels is buying another set of 475w solar panels which means in future, when you want to go for higher capacity, you would have to replace the 5pcs, instead of just 2pcs.

So if I were in your shoes, I would go ahead and buy a higher solar panel use those alone. if you can buy those 700w 3pcs, it's better using just the 3 of them, than mixing them with the existing 475w solar panels.

Another option is, some groWatt inverters do have dual PV points. if yours do have such, then makes life easier for you as you could put the 2pcs of 475w on 1 point; and the new 2 or 3pcs of whatever wattage of solar panel on the second point. Actually, this is your best and cheapest option if your groWatt inverter supports it.

Alternatively, if you got a spare charge controller, you could have 2 setUps where the 2pcs of 475w solar panels get their own charge controller while the other new 3pcs get their own charge controller BUT guess what, this isn't cost effective at all BECAUSE except you already got the cables and charge controller, you would end up spending the money that doesn't exist.

bassdow:
bros we appreciate what you doing and questions you asking. My comments are more to remind you in case you forgot realities. one can never be so sure the other person knows what's involved.

Also I asked what you meant by "Normal Pipes" ? Because if you meant filling iron pipes with cement, then cost wise, it wouldn't be worth it compared to cost of kukuma doing pillar or using H-beams or thicker iron pipes.

BuT if by "Normal Pipes", you meant filling Plastic pipes (probably those big ones used in transporting pupu to septic tank), then I don't know what to say other than without using reinforced iron rods (rebar / TMT) of at least 16mm, or 4pcs of 12mm, it would be useless as concrete is weak without being reinforced. and if you have to use reinforce it with rebar, then adding the plastic pipe becomes unnecessary and waste of money + limits the thickness of the diameter. i know these things because I have handled a couple of building projects.

meanWhile, if that carport is the regular 4 legs type, then I wouldn't be as concerned as I am now BUT those design concepts in pictures you shared above uses the concept of what's called "cantilevered roof" and even in building projects, when not done properly spells disaster.

meanWhile, I love it when people think outside the box and try things outside the norms; so no think say i no appreciate your doings; just ensuring you know what you getting into or attempting.

Thanks for the comment. Normal pipes means metal pipe filled with cement. H-beam is 48k (4x2) per piece. Metal pipe is 8k per piece. I want a balance between cost and safety. Let me continue research. If safety cannot be assured with anything else, then H-beam it is. But, I want to justify the use of a H-beam (LFP) as against other methods (tubular).

Tdoctor:
Thanks for the comment. Normal pipes means metal pipe filled with cement. H-beam is 48k (4x2) per piece. Metal pipe is 8k per piece. I want a balance between cost and safety. Let me continue research. If safety cannot be assured with anything else, then H-beam it is. But, I want to justify the use of a H-beam (LFP) as against other methods (tubular).

what I would say is, you either use thick galvanized pipe, (optionally fill it with pure cement + 3-quarter granite if you want) or kukuma just use 4 pcs of 12mm or 16mm iron rods (go for TMT except the made-In-Nigeria is complete as some 12mm are actually 10mm or less) with evenly and properly spaced rings and do pillar.

Both metal pipe or H-beam or concrete pillar all work well so long it's properly done.

The beams also need be strong enough to handle the load and not sag.

Good Night

prince4pro2:
Please people using cworth panels , how is the performance so far are they giving close to there wattage?.

.
Please I need input on this. Mk person no go make mistake. What I need is performance not brand name. Pls my ogas I need input

bassdow:
what I would say is, you either use thick galvanized pipe, (optionally fill it with pure cement + 3-quarter granite if you want) or kukuma just use 4 pcs of 12mm or 16mm iron rods (go for TMT except the made-In-Nigeria is complete as some 12mm are actually 10mm or less) with evenly and properly spaced rings and do pillar.

Both metal pipe or H-beam or concrete pillar all work well so long it's properly done.

The beams also need be strong enough to handle the load and not sag.

Good Night

Thanks a lot. You don't know what you have done for me. God bless

alosbaba007:
Hello everyone

i need a recommendation on which kind of panel i can connect to this ones, i have 6 pieces of this jinko 475w going to like 2 yrs nw. I recently changed my inverter and needed more power bt don't have enough for a new string of panels, so am looking at an option where i can add 2 or 3 more panels to these ones i have .

i don't mind if they are used panels i jst need something similar or that will match these setting on my panels for it to work well.

Am open to suggestions pls and if you have panels to sell that can match these ones i already have pls feel free to gt in touch

Thanks

I am in a similar situation. I have three units of 475w jinko panels but I want to upgrade cus I got a bigger battery. I don't know if I should simply add three or four new 475w jinko panels or if I should try to sell off my current 475w jinko panels and replace with four 715w jinko panels. Suggestions and advice from those more experienced will be appreciated. I am using valto's 8kwh battery and my inverter supports up to 3000w of solar input and maximum of 450v