₦airaland Forum

prince4pro2:
Please people using cworth panels , how is the performance so far are they giving close to there wattage?.

I use cworth panels, I get 1.3kva at full sunlight out of 1.68kva array. Not bad.

But I wouldn't buy it again if was to do it again. I would go for ZNshine, Jasolar or jinko.

Please my Ogas. What guage of wire is best for earthing. My installer say 2.5mm is good, but chat gpt and other sources says at least 10mm because of lightning. Abeg make una help me

Gshems:
Please my Ogas. What guage of wire is best for earthing. My installer say 2.5mm is good, but chat gpt and other sources says at least 10mm because of lightning. Abeg make una help me

Would say that chatGPT seems more accurate. 2.5mm is too small + a lot of them are even smaller than 2.5mm.

When e happen, it needs a large enough conductor to flow through hence the THICKer, the better. To me, minimum of 10mm. Copper is more preferable here though Aluminium can still work BUT ensure the earth rod and plate are all good THICK copper.

bassdow:
Would say that chatGPT seems more accurate. 2.5mm is too small + a lot of them are even smaller than 2.5mm.

When e happen, it needs a large enough conductor to flow through hence the THICKer, the better. To me, minimum of 10mm. Copper is more preferable here though Aluminium can still work BUT ensure the earth rod and plate are all good copper.

that means I can use that nepa wire? Since Na larger flow e need

adibo:
I am in a similar situation. I have three units of 475w jinko panels but I want to upgrade cus I got a bigger battery. I don't know if I should simply add three or four new 475w jinko panels or if I should try to sell off my current 475w jinko panels and replace with four 715w jinko panels. Suggestions and advice from those more experienced will be appreciated. I am using valto's 8kwh battery and my inverter supports up to 3000w of solar input and maximum of 450v

same suggestion given to the person you quoted applies to you also.

Since your desire is to later go for higher capacity; would suggest you buy them now and remove the smaller ones. rather than mixing 4pcs of 715w solar panels with 3pcs of 475w solar panels, you either OPTION A: use just 4pcs of 7715w for now pending when you can afford adding more OR OPTION B: you do dual setUp where the 3pcs of 475w panels use separate controller to charge the battery while the 4pcs of 715w uses it's own separate or inbuilt controller.
Issue with OPTION B is, except you already have spare controller + solar cables, cost of getting them could make it not worth it especially if distance means you ned longer cables.

but then, there's OPTION C:
if your hybrid inverter has dual PV inputs, then you don't need a separate controller; you just split the panels putting the 3pcs of 475w on PV point 1, and the 4pcs of 715w panels on PV point 2. Again, if using copper, and the distance is long, cost of getting the additional cables should be considered though you could choose using Aluminium cable (NEPA wire) on that point.

Should you choose to instead buy 4pcs of 475w solar panels to add to what you already got, no wahala except now, should in future you want to go for a higher panel wattage, you would worry about disposing off 7pcs, and not just 3pcs of 475w solar panels.

Also, ensure whatever solar panels you get is at least halfCut Mono. Anything less is oldSchool.

Gshems:
that means I can use that nepa wire? Since Na larger flow e need

YES if you can't afford quality thick copper. Even PHCN / NEPA uses aluminium. It needs LARGEr and FASTer FLOW. You better of with Thicker aluminium (25mm or higher) than Thinner Copper (e.g 6mm or lower). buy the big bundle. Omo Igbo dey get 2 sizes BUT na the smaller bundle dem go first show you BUT the moment they see you knw what you want, even if you fake it, dem go enter bring am come. na just skiKiNi extra money dey on top. If possible, you could go for the much thicker ones BUT you wouldn't easily see them sold on streets, na for market or shops where they majorly sell cables you go see those THICKer ones.

BUT you do need understand connection as Aluminium cable and copper are not so friendly. You don't just tie them together. Except the person doing it knows what they doing, just TRY get Copper BUT must be at least 10mm and complete Ooo. Not 10mm that's 6mm.

You need understand what happens most times. If I were a copper wire seller, and not in a position to rely on genuine sales, I would always try make you believe COPPER cables is better in every situation even if you need hold your trousers, or lace your shoes.

Even the wire seller is saying 10mm to earth is too much. I just give am side eyes. I no want thunder to spoil my investment. I will just save and get the 10mm once close eyes

bassdow:
YES if you can't afford quality thick copper. Even PHCN / NEPA uses aluminium. It needs LARGEr and FASTer FLOW. You better of with Thicker aluminium (25mm or higher) than Thinner Copper (e.g 6mm or lower). buy the big bundle. Omo Igbo dey get 2 sizes BUT na the smaller bundle dem go first show you BUT the moment they see you knw what you want, even if you fake it, dem go enter bring am come. na just skiKiNi extra money dey on top. If possible, you could go for the much thicker ones BUT you wouldn't easily see them sold on streets, na for market or shops where they majorly sell cables you go see those THICKer ones.

BUT you do need understand connection as Aluminium cable and copper are not so friendly. You don't just tie them together. Except the person doing it knows what they doing, just TRY get Copper BUT must be at least 10mm and complete Ooo. Not 10mm that's 6mm.

You need understand what happens most times. If I were a copper wire seller, and not in a position to rely on genuine sales, I would always try make you believe COPPER cables is better in every situation even if you need hold your trousers, or lace your shoes.

bassdow:
Would say that chatGPT seems more accurate. 2.5mm is too small + a lot of them are even smaller than 2.5mm.

When e happen, it needs a large enough conductor to flow through hence the THICKer, the better. To me, minimum of 10mm. Copper is more preferable here though Aluminium can still work BUT ensure the earth rod and plate are all good THICK copper.

forgot to include that, depending on capacity of the installation, that 2.5mm can still work Ooo. You can't comapre size required for a 15kva install vs one with a less than 3kva install. SO don't be quick to have negative thought about competence of the person who suggested 2.5mm THOUGH most times, 2.5mm is small even if it's the right one for the current situation; what if tomorrow you increase capacity of your solar setUp.

Gshems:
Even the wire seller is saying 10mm to earth is too much. I just give am side eyes. I no want thunder to spoil my investment. I will just save and get the 10mm once close eyes

He could be RIGHT or WRONG depending on the exact situation. Most times, it depends on capacity of the solar install BUT to be on safe side, I mostly recommend between 6mm and 10mm because tomorrow, if dem increase setUp capacity, no one would bother to make the necessary change. Some people could move from 2pcs of 300w panels on a 12v system to 10pcs of 600w solar panels on a 48v system. The requirement is never same and most times, we wouldn't bother upgrading the earthing cable.

if copper, minimum of 6mm - 10mm so it's more future proof and if Aluminium, minimum of 25mm - 35mm. Should be singleCore. The buried plate should always be copper abeg,

Just do am once and forget about it. Even if tomorrow you over increase your solar setUp, you wouldn't easily have reason to increase the earth cable.

Valto:
we have acquired compression sealing machine, DIY packs will look like this

Where is your p- in this battery setup

bassdow:
same suggestion given to the person you quoted applies to you also.

Since your desire is to later go for higher capacity; would suggest you buy them now and remove the smaller ones. rather than mixing 4pcs of 715w solar panels with 3pcs of 475w solar panels, you either OPTION A: use just 4pcs of 7715w for now pending when you can afford adding more OR OPTION B: you do dual setUp where the 3pcs of 475w panels use separate controller to charge the battery while the 4pcs of 715w uses it's own separate or inbuilt controller.
Issue with OPTION B is, except you already have spare controller + solar cables, cost of getting them could make it not worth it especially if distance means you ned longer cables.

but then, there's OPTION C:
if your hybrid inverter has dual PV inputs, then you don't need a separate controller; you just split the panels putting the 3pcs of 475w on PV point 1, and the 4pcs of 715w panels on PV point 2. Again, if using copper, and the distance is long, cost of getting the additional cables should be considered though you could choose using Aluminium cable (NEPA wire) on that point.

Should you choose to instead buy 4pcs of 475w solar panels to add to what you already got, no wahala except now, should in future you want to go for a higher panel wattage, you would worry about disposing off 7pcs, and not just 3pcs of 475w solar panels.

Also, ensure whatever solar panels you get is at least halfCut Mono. Anything less is oldSchool.

Thanks a lot for your response. I think I will just work towards getting the 715w panels and selling off the 475w panels to recoup some of my money spent back. Not really in a hurry though cus the panels are still serving me well.

Is this Jinko solar panel OK? If not, which solar panel products are original and of good quality that I can buy that are half cut mono?

Just buy jinko from Fouani or cd care. Them dey sell original

adibo:
Thanks a lot for your response. I think I will just work towards getting the 715w panels and selling off the 475w panels to recoup some of my money spent back. Not really in a hurry though cus the panels are still serving me well.

Is this Jinko solar panel OK? If not, which solar panel products are original and of good quality that I can buy that are half cut mono?

Gshems:
Please my Ogas. What guage of wire is best for earthing. My installer say 2.5mm is good, but chat gpt and other sources says at least 10mm because of lightning. Abeg make una help me

I used 10mm for thunder arrestor (100% copper arrestor), and 6mm for earthing from DB (both comester) with bonding done. It has been serving me well.

There was a day i had a direct strike straight on my roof, it handled it well with no damage to any device.

Gshems:
Just buy jinko from Fouani or cd care. Them dey sell original

Yes, I bought my 475w panels from fouani and they have been very efficient. However, now, they only have the 715w panels and I don't think they are half cut mono as suggested by Mr. Bassdow

adibo:
Yes, I bought my 475w panels from fouani and they have been very efficient. However, now, they only have the 715w panels and I don't think they are half cut mono as suggested by Mr. Bassdow

They are half cut mono

adibo:
Yes, I bought my 475w panels from fouani and they have been very efficient. However, now, they only have the 715w panels and I don't think they are half cut mono as suggested by Mr. Bassdow

Fouani majorly sells Bi-Facial solar panels which already are halfCut mono so no problem

How do one know 100% copper. Tho the seller says it has 100% copper but I no get trust issues. I will go ahead with 10mm

favouredbymercy:
I used 10mm for thunder arrestor (100% copper arrestor), and 6mm for earthing from DB (both comester) with bonding done. It has been serving me well.

There was a day i had a direct strike straight on my roof, it handled it well with no damage to any device.

bassdow:
same suggestion given to the person you quoted applies to you also.

Since your desire is to later go for higher capacity; would suggest you buy them now and remove the smaller ones. rather than mixing 4pcs of 715w solar panels with 3pcs of 475w solar panels, you either OPTION A: use just 4pcs of 7715w for now pending when you can afford adding more OR OPTION B: you do dual setUp where the 3pcs of 475w panels use separate controller to charge the battery while the 4pcs of 715w uses it's own separate or inbuilt controller.
Issue with OPTION B is, except you already have spare controller + solar cables, cost of getting them could make it not worth it especially if distance means you ned longer cables.

but then, there's OPTION C:
if your hybrid inverter has dual PV inputs, then you don't need a separate controller; you just split the panels putting the 3pcs of 475w on PV point 1, and the 4pcs of 715w panels on PV point 2. Again, if using copper, and the distance is long, cost of getting the additional cables should be considered though you could choose using Aluminium cable (NEPA wire) on that point.

Should you choose to instead buy 4pcs of 475w solar panels to add to what you already got, no wahala except now, should in future you want to go for a higher panel wattage, you would worry about disposing off 7pcs, and not just 3pcs of 475w solar panels.

Also, ensure whatever solar panels you get is at least halfCut Mono. Anything less is oldSchool.

boss I use Jinko 535W bifacial panels, will I have to change to if I want to go for bigger ones? 600w plus.

Please can anyone assist with the basic price for the following:

Panel: 600+ or 700+
Charger controller: 60A or higher.


Make i get idea before entering the market abeg

Thanks

Dabss:
boss I use Jinko 535W bifacial panels, will I have to change to if I want to go for bigger ones? 600w plus.

you must not change them so long you know what to expect. meanwhile, why bother going 600w when you already are in 535w which is large enough

Topper33:
Please can anyone assist with the basic price for the following:

Panel: 600+ or 700+
Charger controller: 60A or higher.


Make i get idea before entering the market abeg

Thanks

having idea of price ain't enough. Do you also know how to spot the quality ones ?

meanWhile, I got quality USEd MPPT controllers from 160,000 naira and above for 600A, 80A, 100A, 1200A

Price of new ones are from that range though quality would differ as quality new ones would be much more expensive.

for solar panels, price of 600w and above starts from 100,000 naira depending on source

bassdow:
I got quality USEd MPPT controllers from 160,000 naira and above for 600A, 80A, 100A, 1200A

Price of new ones are from that range though quality would differ as quality new ones would be much more expensive.

What brand of charge controller? Any pics?

xzynwa:
Does anyone have any experience using this thermocool standing freezer?

It has 8hours written on the body as how long it takes to produce ice block.

I want to know it that is really true from someone who has used it or knows someone who do.

Hi xzynwa, where you able to get this?

And did it work well for you?

Tdoctor:
What brand of charge controller? Any pics?

SMK, SRNE, etc. Would have to check what's available as na clients get them.

favouredbymercy:
I used 10mm for thunder arrestor (100% copper arrestor), and 6mm for earthing from DB (both comester) with bonding done. It has been serving me well.

There was a day i had a direct strike straight on my roof, it handled it well with no damage to any device.

pls throw more light on this bonding part

bassdow:
That ash wire that draw light from NEPA pole directly into your compound. it's that wire NEPA cuts when you fail to pay for darkNess Light.

It's called service cable but how do you crimp it to mc4 connector to connect to the solar panel because they are usually thicker than the size of mc4 connector?

Pls house can I use the charger below to charge lifepo4 or lithium ion battery. I only saw lead acid in the description?

This solar of a thing self, sometimes old school works better.

I connected 2pcs of 300w panels to the cola solar 1000 pro I installed in my shop using mc4 connectors. Cos the solar cable that came with it has an mc4 connector at the other end.

After installing this for 2 days the solar gen has never fully charged with 600w of panel array.

Something just got into my head and cut off the mc4 connector on the end of the cola solar cable and also the mc4 connector at the end of the cables from the panels and manually joined the wires and taped it.

Do you know this solar gen added 2 more bars and got fully charged in just 3hours after doing that since 2 days of installation.

Don't try it o.

ajabani4allah:
Pls house can I use the charger below to charge lifepo4 or lithium ion battery. I only saw lead acid in the description?

ajabani4allah:
It's called service cable but how do you crimp it to mc4 connector to connect to the solar panel because they are usually thicker than the size of mc4 connector?

na there skill dey work small.
ShortCut na to start the mc4 connector with like 12-inch long copper cable which terminates into where you join the copper with Aluminium cable. Another alternative na to cut and Join but I stopped doing that long ago except client no pay for mc4 connectors.

Either way, no leave am exposed.

bassdow:
SMK, SRNE, etc. Would have to check what's available as na clients get them.

OK. Waiting for pics on the thread

fuckboys:
This solar of a thing self, sometimes old school works better.

I connected 2pcs of 300w panels to the cola solar 1000 pro I installed in my shop using mc4 connectors. Cos the solar cable that came with it has an mc4 connector at the other end.

After installing this for 2 days the solar gen has never fully charged with 600w of panel array.

Something just got into my head and cut off the mc4 connector on the end of the cola solar cable and also the mc4 connector at the end of the cables from the panels and manually joined the wires and taped it.

Do you know this solar gen added 2 more bars and got fully charged in just 3hours after doing that since 2 days of installation.

but sheyBi you follow for people wey dey call me oldSchool. say I am stuck in the past.

meanWhile, there's probably an issue with your mc4 connector or no be better one you buy or it wasn't connected well enough.

There's reason why Soldering has always been the best and when crimping, ensure it's properly done or when tying together, ensure you tie it well. if I have to go the Tying route, you go think say I dey plait hair; i fit divide am into 5 portions, still dey divide and join while tying them. When properly done, e go be like say you solder am. Come use better tape cover am. Either way, na to maintain enough contact that's steady.

and those mc4 connectors are very expensive especially if it's more than 1-way.

but using mc4 connectors makes the project neater, and easier to connect and disconnect cables unlike when manually tied.