ThatHistoryGuy:


Hi On your question it all depends on the packing of the tiles in question Tiles comes in different packing like 1.8,1.6,1.4 etc But 13m² should not be more thank 7 or 8 packs

Thank u sir

My Ogas,

This septic tank was casted on surface and suck as per the land is a water-logged area (precisely in Port Harcourt). The floor was also casted but the problem is leakage at the edges. The septic tank has been casted like twice, still no good result due to the high pressure of the underground water. The moment you pure the dry concrete mixture you will see the water coming through the cement concrete. The Septic tank was like 12 ft deep initially but now due to the casting poured is like 10 ft or less.
Anyone with a professional advice or solution.

Thank you.

sako28:
My Ogas,

This septic tank was casted on surface and suck as per the land is a water-logged area (precisely in Port Harcourt). The floor was also casted but the problem is leakage at the edges. The septic tank has been casted like twice, still no good result due to the high pressure of the underground water. The moment you pure the dry concrete mixture you will see the water coming through the cement concrete. The Septic tank was like 12 ft deep initially but now due to the casting poured is like 10 ft or less.
Anyone with a professional advice or solution.

Thank you.

Did u cast the septic tank inside the hole?
U ought to cast it outside, i.e precast. After proper curing before putting inside d hole. Was that the approach u use?

Will using iron like that of water tank not be better option for septic tank than concrete in water logged areas? Would like to hear expert opinions.

It was precasted on surface and left to cure for more than 3 weeks before they sank it. The walls are not leaking. the leak is coming from the bottom at the edges. The water pressure is high.
From finding in the neighborhood everyone's septic tank leaks but in various degree and intensity. i want to get mine right.

Rubbiish:

Did u cast the septic tank inside the hole?
U ought to cast it outside, i.e precast. After proper curing before putting inside d hole. Was that the approach u use?

Will using iron like that of water tank not be better option for septic tank than concrete in water logged areas? Would like to hear expert opinions.

sako28:
It was precasted on surface and left to cure for more than 3 weeks before they sank it. The walls are not leaking. the leak is coming from the bottom at the edges. The water pressure is high.
From finding in the neighborhood everyone's septic tank leaks but in various degree and intensity. i want to get mine right.

Dig a hole by the side of the septic tank. The hole should be deeper than the tank. Put a pump and run continuously while you cast the base.

keziah123:

Dig a hole by the side of the septic tank. The hole should be deeper than the tank. Put a pump and run continuously while you cast the base.

Good advice and observation, this may likely solve the problem

sako28:
My Ogas,

This septic tank was casted on surface and suck as per the land is a water-logged area (precisely in Port Harcourt). The floor was also casted but the problem is leakage at the edges. The septic tank has been casted like twice, still no good result due to the high pressure of the underground water. The moment you pure the dry concrete mixture you will see the water coming through the cement concrete. The Septic tank was like 12 ft deep initially but now due to the casting poured is like 10 ft or less.
Anyone with a professional advice or solution.

Thank you.

precast should do the job

Please like how much can i loan to build 3 bedroom apartment in bode olude, Abeokuta.
Want to request for a loan.
From foundation to roofing & finishing
Thanks

Orlatunday11:
Please like how much can i loan to build 3 bedroom apartment in bode olude, Abeokuta.
Want to request for a loan.
From foundation to roofing & finishing
Thanks

You should be budgeting between 4m - 5m naira depending on your taste.

Orlatunday11:
Please like how much can i loan to build 3 bedroom apartment in bode olude, Abeokuta.
Want to request for a loan.
From foundation to roofing & finishing
Thanks

Sit down with an Archirect/Civil Engineer.
Tell them what you want and get a detailed plan along with a bill of quantity/material from start to finish which is inclusive of complete finishing.
Make an addition of <25% of total amount of your bill of quantity.
Take that as your loan and work towards it.

House please I heard someone wrote here that you can get Lafarge company to come around and pour concrete on your decking instead of using the normal labour intensive method.Please does anybody have idea about this ? Is it truly cheaper to get Lafarge to come and pour the concrete for decking? Are there other alternatives? Can you help with estimate on how much materials will be required to deck a 100sqm floor?
Thanks in advance.

coretechng1:
House please I heard someone wrote here that you can get Lafarge company to come around and pour concrete on your decking instead of using the normal labour intensive method.Please does anybody have idea about this ? Is it truly cheaper to get Lafarge to come and pour the concrete for decking? Are there other alternatives? Can you help with estimate on how much materials will be required to deck a 100sqm floor?
Thanks in advance.

This service dos not come cheap ooo,

coretechng1:
House please I heard someone wrote here that you can get Lafarge company to come around and pour concrete on your decking instead of using the normal labour intensive method.Please does anybody have idea about this ? Is it truly cheaper to get Lafarge to come and pour the concrete for decking? Are there other alternatives? Can you help with estimate on how much materials will be required to deck a 100sqm floor?
Thanks in advance.

Isn't this lafarge company gonna be more expensive the regular labour approach?

Rubbiish:

Isn't this lafarge company gonna be more expensive the regular labour approach?

It will be very expensive for the regular decking and one might have logistic challenges if your site is nit easily accessible to truck

Orlatunday11:
Please like how much can i loan to build 3 bedroom apartment in bode olude, Abeokuta.
Want to request for a loan.
From foundation to roofing & finishing
Thanks

With 5-6m you good to go.

coretechng1:
House please I heard someone wrote here that you can get Lafarge company to come around and pour concrete on your decking instead of using the normal labour intensive method.Please does anybody have idea about this ? Is it truly cheaper to get Lafarge to come and pour the concrete for decking? Are there other alternatives? Can you help with estimate on how much materials will be required to deck a 100sqm floor?
Thanks in advance.

Hmmmm, Lafarge readymix ha... to much money be that ooo. is not cheap at all ooo. Normal traditions is cheaper.

ThatHistoryGuy:


Hi sir
Pls when making a choice of where to get your tiles,WC and sanitary wares do well to consider Epic ceramics. We are assorted in design ,quality and colours.

And we can deliver to your site at zero cost if its within Lagos.

Hajj my Boss am very sorry. APPOLOGIES!

Hello Mr History guy that sells tiles

Do you have this exact sample of outside wall tile

And where in Odun-Ade is your office located,perhaps I can make out time to come this week.

Have seen lots of your adverts in this forum maybe we can do business.


Here looking at its size I think its Spanish.

coretechng1:
House please I heard someone wrote here that you can get Lafarge company to come around and pour concrete on your decking instead of using the normal labour intensive method.Please does anybody have idea about this ? Is it truly cheaper to get Lafarge to come and pour the concrete for decking? Are there other alternatives? Can you help with estimate on how much materials will be required to deck a 100sqm floor?
Thanks in advance.

Just go their office or contact them via e-mail if they have a functional web site. Tell them the grade mix you want and they will tell you the price per cubic metre.

sako28:
My Ogas,

This septic tank was casted on surface and suck as per the land is a water-logged area (precisely in Port Harcourt). The floor was also casted but the problem is leakage at the edges. The septic tank has been casted like twice, still no good result due to the high pressure of the underground water. The moment you pure the dry concrete mixture you will see the water coming through the cement concrete. The Septic tank was like 12 ft deep initially but now due to the casting poured is like 10 ft or less.
Anyone with a professional advice or solution.

Thank you.

When you say water coming through the edges do you mean the 4 edges at the base where it meets the ground or at where?

Flaghouse1:



This service dos not come cheap ooo,

you guys should stop making this statement! how would you know this if you have not tried it before?

aonag:


you guys should stop making this statement! how would you know this if you have not tried it before?

Please if you have tried it can you please do a cost benefit abnalysis of using lafarge mix as against the traditional decking ,I hunbly await your submission


FYI! Search for this thread and read through-Construction if fire station at yaba

architectB:


Good evening @EgunMogaji... Thanks for your comment. Concerning your question, i regret to say that the Ready mix does not save cost at all ooo; as a matter of fact, it is a lot more expensive than the manual method that most people are wont to use.

As at today, the cost of Ready mix (from Lafarge) is about 40k per cubic metre for grade 25 concrete while you can get the same mix (albeit not as pure as you might want it to be) for between 20 - 25k if done manually.

On large projects, Ready mix is advised but on this project (which is small), we were just trying to make a statement, being the first project we were getting from the institution.
Apart from cost issues, Ready mix is waaaaay better than manual in every regard... I mean you can spend 2 hours to cast a slab that will otherwise take you at least 10 hours...

alstacs:
Which is better, Galvanised Steel or Iron for Stair case Railings?
Any idea about average price per metre? Or how do they measure it?

My people in the house, please I'm still waiting for your responses on this staircase railing thing...
Preference for durability and cost.
Thank you

What is coming out from 2 edges at the base where it meet the ground.

bixton:


When you say water coming through the edges do you mean the 4 edges at the base where it meets the ground or at where?

sako28:
What is coming out from 2 edges at the base where it meet the ground.

You will have to use water seal + your concrete mix or just the water seal + cement +sharp sand for that particular area. There are various types and you can find them in outlets where they sell tiles.
If you can wait till dry season to empty the soakaway and properly attend to it giving if there will be no water or not much water coming from the floor/edges so it cures well then that would be fine.

Note a soakaway is supposed to hold water and I naturally do not think that this is an issue except if it will lead to collapse. Just observe the tide of the water. Also consider increasing the height of the soakaway.

sako28:
It was precasted on surface and left to cure for more than 3 weeks before they sank it. The walls are not leaking. the leak is coming from the bottom at the edges. The water pressure is high.
From finding in the neighborhood everyone's septic tank leaks but in various degree and intensity. i want to get mine right.

Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

bixton:


You will have to use water seal + your concrete mix or just the water seal + cement +sharp sand for that particular area. There are various types and you can find them in outlets where they sell tiles.
If you can wait till dry season to empty the soakaway and properly attend to it giving if there will be no water or not much water coming from the floor/edges so it cures well then that would be fine.

Note a soakaway is supposed to hold water and I naturally do not think that this is an issue except if it will lead to collapse. Just observe the tide of the water. Also consider increasing the height of the soakaway.

Iti is not an issue except that instead of spending money to evacuate faeces from your soakaway, say once in two years or once a year, you will be spending money to evacuate this leaking one, once every month!

Not a nice thing for poor people like us.

alstacs:


My people in the house, please I'm still waiting for your responses on this staircase railing thing...
Preference for durability and cost.
Thank you

first, they cost different amounts, so it boils down to your taste and size of your wallet.

- Stainless Steel is the best, makes the house look elegant but costs maybe thrice as much.
It is also a bit difficult to bend, if your railings are circular in nature, like in a spiral staircase.

- Galvanized iron is next in terms of pricing but it is a bit difficult to get Painst that would adhere to it perfectly (except you dont want to paint it...and our Nigerian version of galvanized steel are nt really good as som eof them will start rusting after a few years!)

- Iron is down the list, not too costly, easy to bend and does not break!
But cannot give you the class of stainless Steel, for example.

If you can squeeze the money, use Stailess Steel, it is about 21K - 25K per Square-meter, depending on the design.

Hope this helps.

-

MrJohnson1987:



Hello Mr History guy that sells tiles

Do you have this exact sample of outside wall tile

And where in Odun-Ade is your office located,perhaps I can make out time to come this week.

Have seen lots of your adverts in this forum maybe we can do business.


Here looking at its size I think its Spanish.

Hello Mr.Johnson

Yeah we have that exact outside wall tile
But don't have a sample of it on my phone now,so will send you a sample Immediately I get to the office.

On our location,both our showroom and warehouses are located at coker orile.

Our showroom is in B-46&47 STI market Odun-Ade.

Will get back to you ASAP on the sample.

Goodmorning folks

Daboomb:


Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

Good one. Hope he understands this whole process.

bixton:


Good one. Hope he understands this whole process.

Thank you bros.

Can you pls edit your post so you dont quote the whole 'long story' (just a few lines so we know what you are referring to, will do)?
Nor vex o, say l dey suggest to you.
This thread don nearly reach 1000 pages