₦airaland Forum

Daboomb:
first, they cost different amounts, so it boils down to your taste and size of your wallet.

- Stainless Steel is the best, makes the house look elegant but costs maybe thrice as much.
It is also a bit difficult to bend, if your railings are circular in nature, like in a spiral staircase.

- Galvanized iron is next in terms of pricing but it is a bit difficult to get Painst that would adhere to it perfectly (except you dont want to paint it...and our Nigerian version of galvanized steel are nt really good as som eof them will start rusting after a few years!)

- Iron is down the list, not too costly, easy to bend and does not break!
But cannot give you the class of stainless Steel, for example.

If you can squeeze the money, use Stailess Steel, it is about 21K - 25K per Square-meter, depending on the design.

Hope this helps.

-

corpROYAL:
Can anyone tell me how many boundles of conventional local pan will be good for one bedroom flat. One visit toilet, kitchen, sitting room and the one room with toilet. The total wideness of 13ft and the longness is 32ft. The roofing is normal sloppy roofing no style just direct sloppy to the back.

How many plank, like how many 2by 3, how many 2 by 4 can finish the rafters.

I will be very happy to get good reply from my good people here. Thanks in advance.

writejhn27:
Please can anybody recommend a good and trustworthy tiler for me project Is in Lagos

Thanks

MrJohnson1987:
Hello Mr History guy that sells tiles

Do you have this exact sample of outside wall tile

And where in Odun-Ade is your office located,perhaps I can make out time to come this week.

Have seen lots of your adverts in this forum maybe we can do business.


Here looking at its size I think its Spanish.

writejhn27:
Please can anybody recommend a good and trustworthy tiler for me project Is in Lagos

Thanks

writejhn27:
Please can anybody recommend a good and trustworthy tiler for me project Is in Lagos
Thanks

Daboomb:
Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

writejhn27:
Please can anybody recommend a good and trustworthy tiler for me project Is in Lagos

Thanks

Barryton:
Well exlained sir.
Those rods we use for reinforcement are they also galvanized or just pure iron?

sako28:
Thanks bro,

I really appreciate your detailed explanation, but I will not mind if the team that did your friends own can come for mine too. Can that be possible.
Thanks one again.

AngelicBeing:
@ Daboomb, you are indeed an encyclopedia of knowledge, you are knowledgeable in almost every field or do I say, you always have something substantial to contribute in every discuss and your contribution do make sense, from politics, health, science, technology and building construction Are you a building Engineer? because your detailed analysis on here is commendable, look at the way you detailed the solution to the Septic tank challenge, nawao, if I have this kind of challenge on my site, even if l know nothing about building, with the assistance of a professional on my site, l will be reading all you suggested to him

ThatHistoryGuy:
Alright
Here sir

Daboomb:
Thank you Bros, l feel so flaterred.

I am a voracious student of knowledge, in any feild.
The more we learn, the more we know.

BTW, l did manage to school up to standard 3+.

Daboomb:
Haba, this is about 25 pages of instruction just to fix leak by the time the guy finished reading the instruction he may not remember the first sentence. My brother pls teach oh, if you do all your students will not comprehend anything at the end of the day.


Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

Daboomb:
Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice fix leak by the time the guy finished reading the he may not remember the first sentence. My brother pls teach oh, if you do all your students will not comprehend anything at the end of the day. my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

Daboomb:
Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

kopell:
Haba just to fix leak, with this long eassy instruction by the time the guy finished reading, he may not remember the first sentence. My brother pls no go teach oh, if you do all your students will not comprehend anything at the end of the day.

Tompeters:
I am supervising a house project for 2flats of 3 bedrooms each and the electrician gave Me this quotation for the wiring of just one flat as follows :

6 roll of 1.5mm red
3 roll of 1.5mm black
3 roll of 1.5mm yellow

2 roll of 2.5mm red
2 roll of 2.5mm black

1 roll of 4mm red
1 roll of 4mm Black

One roll of 10mm red


All I want to know from you guys is if this should be for the whole house or just one flat...

Please house help out

Daboomb:
A few things will determine whether this is just for one flat or both:

- Size of each flat and each room (Some single flat can be as big as two smaller flats combined)
- The arraingement of the wiring ( some like me, like to run all circuits/wires separately! All Bulbs, all sockets, all A.C's, Cookers, compound lightings, e.t.c all on separate wiring lines.
This makes troubleshooting easy.
- Other options like chandeliers, Wall lights, Inverter, UPS line, Solar Power wirings, e.t.c all increase the amount fo wiring beyond normal.

But looking at what you have, l dont think it can wire two flats completely though depending on what you require, it may be a little excess for single flat.

My advice: Give them the wire as they need it (dont drop everything into their lap) and monitor the usage.

Tompeters:
Thanks sir.... But most of the stuffs like AC, WATER HEATER, SOME OF THE LIGHTINGS WILL NOT EVEN BE USED FOR THE NOW

Tompeters:
Thanks sir.... But most of the stuffs like AC, WATER HEATER, SOME OF THE LIGHTINGS WILL NOT EVEN BE USED FOR THE NOW

Daboomb:
first, they cost different amounts, so it boils down to your taste and size of your wallet.

- Stainless Steel is the best, makes the house look elegant but costs maybe thrice as much.
It is also a bit difficult to bend, if your railings are circular in nature, like in a spiral staircase.

- Galvanized iron is next in terms of pricing but it is a bit difficult to get Painst that would adhere to it perfectly (except you dont want to paint it...and our Nigerian version of galvanized steel are nt really good as som eof them will start rusting after a few years!)

- Iron is down the list, not too costly, easy to bend and does not break!
But cannot give you the class of stainless Steel, for example.

If you can squeeze the money, use Stailess Steel, it is about 21K - 25K per Square-meter, depending on the design.

Hope this helps.

-

Daboomb:
But the wiring has to be done now, as in put in place pending when they will be used, right?

or did l misunderstand you?

I am assuming once this is done, you will be plastering the place, if you have not already done so.
also, getting a second independent quote, as adviced by the poste above, is really a good way to compare.

*** I think it was madam @gabbytabby who gave a breakdown of the average wiring per Flat, sometimes ago.***
Dont know if l can still find that post but you can search for it with her username.

Tompeters:
PIPING DONE ALREADY.. PLASTERING TO BE COMPLETED TODAY...

BUT ONE FUNNY THING IS SOMEONE GAVE ME A QUOTATION FOR WIRING AS 267800 FOR THE FULL HOUSE AND THIS OTHER GUY IS SAYING 208000 FOR JUST ONE FLAT......

Tompeters:
PIPING DONE ALREADY.. PLASTERING TO BE COMPLETED TODAY...

BUT ONE FUNNY THING IS SOMEONE GAVE ME A QUOTATION FOR WIRING AS 267800 FOR THE FULL HOUSE AND THIS OTHER GUY IS SAYING 208000 FOR JUST ONE FLAT......

Tompeters:
PIPING DONE ALREADY.. PLASTERING TO BE COMPLETED TODAY...

BUT ONE FUNNY THING IS SOMEONE GAVE ME A QUOTATION FOR WIRING AS 267800 FOR THE FULL HOUSE AND THIS OTHER GUY IS SAYING 208000 FOR JUST ONE FLAT......