₦airaland Forum

Today I visited the vegetable section of the market and collected all these discarded vegetable stalks from just one seller, for free. Imagine having a small silage-making machine to chop the forage, mix it with a little molasses solution and then compress and store it in an airtight drum or polythene bag. This can provide feed for 3–5 days depending on the size of your ruminants. Especially, when you fetch and mix it with other feed materials like bean husks, soy milk residue and similar by-products to support a steady and affordable feeding program.

goat market somewhere in Lagos

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1MaJpCwZB5/

2025 wrapped: goat rearing, mineral salt lick production, maize farming & agro-consultancy.

Happy 2026! From #DlemHarvestGarden, we’re pushing further and growing into a bigger and more serious integrated farming culture.

https://www.nairaland.com/8464068/how-plan-grow-maize-organically

https://www.nairaland.com/8549664/goat-farming-tips-how-start

Since we are already in the dry season:
cucumbers provide hydration and vitamins.
watermelon rind provides fiber and mild energy.

both are safe and beneficial as supplements, but small ruminants still need proper forage for good growth and health. Because these feeds contain a lot of water, it is better not to give them during the rainy season, as they may cause diarrhea.

- feed small amounts only
- always combine with dry forage or hay
- avoid feeding to very young kids during heavy rains
- stop immediately if loose stool appears

Confined goats rearing via fencing need mineral salt block and better health management which raises costs but improves productivity and security. Free-roaming goats rearing method cost less to feed and medicate but come with high theft risk and poor control. Good hygiene, space and minerals can make enclosed systems healthier and more profitable.

What I fed the goats & ewe today:

dried sorghum waste
Beans husks
roasted yam peels

All mixed together and given as a whole..
later in the evening I gave them mango leaves (fresh branch-cut) and chopped cucumbers

There is mineral block close to their drinking water - and always make sure the water is clean and available 24/7, hence we are experiencing real dry season over here.

Natural Salt Licks, Salt Licking Block and Sodium Chloride Lick Block) has increased daily weight, milk yield and feed conversion efficiency, and is specialized in the prevention and treatment of various nutritional metabolic diseases. Increase the milk yield, weight, reproduction rate and survival rate of livestock. Promote digestion, improve the utilization of coarse fodder, and save material. It is full of nutrition, good adaptability, and also has the function of preventing disease, improving reproduction rate and immunity.

Note: always ensure a clean and consistent water bowl for the ruminants
Whatsapp 07082233423

Hamachi:
Men in their 30's and 40's what advice will yoi give to a 20 year old man today?

we they reach 30 something or 40, they will know what to do

Special care for baby goats in the dry season

Always separate or priority feeding: Goat kids get easily pushed aside during group feeding. Always feed them first or use an isolated feeding area only they can access.

supplement lack of greens
- Dry season means little green forage. Provide legume hay, soft leaves, kitchen vegetable waste, spent grain paste, dry and mix feeds for proper growth.
- Adequate drinking water & minerals: Ensure clean water at all times and access to a mineral salt lick to prevent deficiencies and poor bone growth.

- Prevent stress & injuries
Avoid overcrowding during feeding, because trampling and stress reduce feed intake and immunity.
- Good, Clean & Dry housing
clean shelter protects kids from cold nights, dust and diseases.

- Regular health checks,
deworm, medicate and watch for weight loss or weakness - kids decline fast in harsh seasons.

In the dry season, baby goats don’t compete well. Extra attention, separate feeding and supplements are essential for healthy growth.

earlier on someone was asking if I can be rich rearing goats or sheep> I visited the local livestock market section yesterday..
Looking at this livestock upon hearing the final offer or sales worth each? I just called them executive sheep! because the price of one only is worth my annual salary after deducting total transport fare to the job..🤦
daily tf fares is digging serious hole in the pocket of monthly salary earners and that's a fact..abuja people can relate to the situation shaa

Always get rid of nylon from your livestock pen. It may look harmless but it's very dangerous to animals. Goats, sheep, and cattle are curious feeders. Once they see nylon, they can easily pick it up and swallow it while feeding or licking the floor. Inside the stomach, nylon does not digest. It stays there, blocks digestion, reduces feed intake, and slowly weakens the animal.

Beyond the pen, always check the feed you give your animals. Cassava peels, crop residues, and even feeds bought from local feed suppliers can sometimes contain nylon, rope, or plastic fragments mixed inside. Many animals do not choose carefully. They eat whatever comes with the feed. Before serving, spread the feed out and remove any foreign materials you see.

Some cases of weight loss, poor growth, bloating, and sudden death are linked to nylon ingestion. The sad part is that the signs often appear when damage has already been done. Keeping the pen clean and inspecting feed properly are simple habits, but they protect your animals and save you from avoidable losses.

✍️Farmwell post

KENVEE6:
Good morning, I want to ask how much I can start with and how profitable goat farming is.

like I said in my earlier post, I started 1 year 8 months ago with just two pregnant goats - white & black females
Both cost me 110k and each gave birth one female each..

Now:

I have got 4 goat kids ( 3 males + 1 female)
and 3 pregnant goats ( the old two I started with plus sole daughter to the white female goat..) the sole daughter to the black female was pregnant too but died, shockingly the mother kept head-butting her in the belly and killed her..
To sum everything up as far as livestock farming or rearing in dec 2025 per say:
4 kids
3 pregnant goats
1 mature ram ( I don't even know the breed, I'm targeting Salah sales)
1 mature female likely yankasa-cross sheep ( just brought few weeks ago already pregnant)..
Total livestock = 9

KENVEE6:
Good morning, I want to ask how much I can start with and how profitable goat farming is.

very profitable if done right and properly

mcjohny:
I have 🐐 goats 4 sale

I'm in Kano
For Xmas or conventional farming
(0) 810 988 5235

pls open your own thread for that...no selling of goats allowed here bro...

Zocalite:
The picture na goat rearing not farming


Oga just dey download chatgpt for us

my Facebook siggy dey attached where I post two times daily..check for reels too

nightsaint:
Frankly speaking, is this what you will do and become a rich in life!

absolutely, give me 3yrs sir...I will be doing serious agri-business and won't have the luxury of time to be posting on nairaland...but if you think it is only goat rearing/farming I'm doing then you haven't met me.. I'm into integrated farming for the long haul...

Comment like this naa e mek me complete my backyard maize farming thread..

https://www.nairaland.com/8464068/how-plan-grow-maize-organically

I welcome una negativity - cuz I go dey always dey run things 110%

Dogalmighty17:
What do you mean by dullest and laziest goat? Do you expect it to solve differential calculus or Newtonian physics for you?

funny...

mariovito:
Do they stay there all day?

How do you handle the pee smell?

it smells a lot but I do always clean and sweep their shed to avoid further disease spread like foot and mouth disease, etc.
Nothing good comes easy but so far it's being a great journey

RebirthPhoenix:
This your black goat just remind me of Nigerian girls

lol

WHY A MINERAL SALT BLOCK IS A MUST-HAVE FOR EVERY GOAT FARMER

Many people think salt blocks are just something goats lick out of habit.
But in reality, that small block sitting in your pen is one of the most powerful tools for boosting health, fertility, and overall farm performance.

Let’s break it down 👇


1️⃣ Why Minerals Matter More Than You Think

Goats are active browsers.
They walk long distances, nibble on different plants, and lose minerals quickly - far more than many farmers realize.
To stay at peak condition, they need a steady supply of essential minerals.

A good-quality mineral salt block gives them daily access to key nutrients such as:

Sodium & Chloride: help maintain hydration, nerve function, and digestion.

Calcium & Phosphorus: support bone strength, milk production, and healthy pregnancies.

Copper & Zinc: encourage strong immunity, good fertility, bright eyes, and shiny coats.
Iodine & Selenium: prevent weak kids, thyroid issues, and reproductive challenges.

Every lick works like a natural mineral booster - simple, safe, and cost-effective.


2️⃣ Signs Your Goats Are Lacking Minerals

Mineral deficiency doesn’t show up overnight.
It builds up quietly — until your goats begin to show worrying symptoms like:

* Rough or fading coat
* Kids growing slowly or looking weak
* Low milk production
* Does failing to conceive or repeating heat cycles
* Brittle bones or limping
* Frequent sickness, worms, or poor immunity
* Licking soil, chewing wood, or eating strange objects

If you notice these behaviours, your animals are signaling that they urgently need minerals.
A single mineral block can prevent most of these problems.

3️⃣ Choosing the Right Salt Block

All salt blocks are not the same. Pick wisely:

* Choose mineral blocks designed for goats other livestock types may not have the right mineral balance. Or you can build one yourself
* Keep the block lifted off the ground and away from rain.
* Replace it once it finishes - consistency is key.


4️⃣ Water Completes the Package

Goats will naturally drink more water after consuming minerals.
Clean, fresh water nearby helps with digestion and mineral absorption.

What You Gain

With consistent mineral access, you’ll notice:

Better feed utilization
Faster growth and stronger breeding performance
Higher milk output
Improved immunity and fewer health issues
Glossy coats and more active animals

Salt blocks might look small, but they play a big role in overall goat management.

I’ll continue sharing practical tips, feeding ideas, breeding guides, and personal farm experiences in the coming months to help you take your goat operation to the next level.

Small steps - like providing a mineral block - create big results when combined with proper management.

Take control of your goat farm today.
Turn your passion into profit.

Note: I'm not the original author of this one...I saw on a Facebook group so I decided to share.

Tackling nutritional deficiency in ruminants using salt block Licks year-round

Always ensure your animals have a salt lick available, especially during the dry season when pasture quality drops and grasses lose most of their nutrients.

Salt licks supply important minerals that cattle, sheep, and goats cannot get enough of from grazing alone. These minerals make them thirsty for more water especially in dry season where most ruminants detest staying hydrated and more importantly help animals stay strong, healthy and more productive throughout the year.

Using a salt lick boosts appetite, supports better digestion, improves fertility, strengthens bones and helps build a stronger immune system.

For cattle:
Salt licks keep the rumen working properly by supporting the microbes that digest feed. This prevents mineral shortages and encourages animals to eat more, resulting in better weight gain and increased milk output.

For sheep:
Sheep are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies, so they benefit a lot from salt licks. However, they need a formulation that is low in copper because they cannot tolerate excess copper.

For goats:
Goats rely on salt licks to maintain good immunity, reproduce well and keep their hooves, skin and coat in good condition.

Placing a salt lick where the animals feed or rest can help avoid issues like stunted growth, weak bones, low milk yield, eating soil or stones and slow breeding.

Overall, salt licks are a simple and affordable way to improve the health and performance of your herd or flock throughout the year.

Hybrid rigor:
If you know - you know 🧑‍🌾
keep learning, keep pushing.

Ghana celebrated farmers day yesterday.
How interesting? Naija which way?
Abeg joor...urgent 2k savings job on duty call.

Sukkyy2010:
You're doing well I like your thread, please don't stop and never be discouraged by few engagement that you earn with this. There many like who are following through but won't react or comment.

My question as an enthusiast is, how do you keep the cost of feeding economical with quality.

Keeping goat-feeding costs low while maintaining good nutritional quality is absolutely possible, but it requires a strategy, not just cheap ingredients. Below is a practical, farm-tested guide you can apply;

1- prioritize browsing & forage (your cheapest feed)

Goats are natural browsers, not grazers like cattle. If you manage forage well, you can reduce concentrate feed usage by 40–70%.

2- use by-products or kitchen wastes

Commercial goat feeds are expensive because they include maize/soy cake. Instead, use cheaper by-products in the form of kitchen waste with good nutrient value, these reduce feed cost by 50–80% while still supplying energy and moderate protein, etc.

- cassava peel meal (sun-dried)
- brewers grain (wet or dried)
- palm kernel cake (PKC)
- Cowpea husks
- maize bran (very economical)
- Tridax
. Cabbages
. African Palm grass
. Bitter leaves (occasionally)
. Pawpaw leaves (occasionally)
. sun-wilt plantain peels
. sun-wilt Banana leaves
. Carrot leaves
- Cassava leaves (sun-dried first to remove cyanide)
. Lettuce
. Spinach
- mango leaves
. Ewedu leaves (occasionally)
. Water leaf
. Stubborn grass (occasionally)
. Carrots leaves (occasionally)
. Watermelon (occasionally)
. Banana peel
. Plantain peel
- groundnut hays
. Yam peels
. Sweet potato peels or vines
- beans husks
- okra leaves
- Chopped fresh maize leaves & stems
- guinea corn chaff
- vegetable stalks
- ugu vines
- banana / plantain leaves
- banana tree stem ( chopped or sliced)
- chopped watermelon rind
-chopped pineapple peels ( moderation)
- wet & pressed soya paste ( residues from soy milk making)
- chopped cucumbers (moderation or mix with grasses, hay or other browse rather than feeding it alone)
- Elephant grass + legumes etc.. Or level-up by growing pasture grass and feed them to your livestock like; alfalfa/Lucerne, biacharia, super napier, lablab, Bermuda, etc. and you can also make silage not only from these pasture grasses, but also from; maize, sorghum, etc.

And moreover you can provide a more advanced but affordable homemade protein sources from;

dry BSF larvae / BSF meal
Azolla from Azolla farming & cultivation
Poultry blood meal (properly cooked and dried)

dried Azolla + BSF alone can raise your feed protein cheaply without ever buying fishmeal or soy meal..

Or practice selective supplementation but a bit expensive though.. like Instead of feeding concentrates every day, you can feed:

-Concentrate 3–4 times weekly
-Free forage and browse daily ( the above-mentioned list of foliage & kitchen wastes)
-Mineral lick always available

Or mix your own ration (the best way to save money)

A basic diy low-cost high-quality goat concentrate mix could be:
E.g

100 kg Budget Ration (good quality)
40 kg maize bran ( meet those women selling pap)
20 kg PKC or cassava peel meal
15 kg brewers grain or sweet potato peels
10 kg BSF meal / blood meal
3 kg wheat offal
1 kg mineral-salt mix
Crude Protein should be approx 16 to 18% suitable for goats of all ages.

But this is the open secret to my daily goat feeding routine;

morning: free browsing 3–5 hours
afternoon: chopped forage
evening (selectively): small concentrate portion only for pregnant/lactating goats and kids

There you go...if you are planning of doing goat farming on a commercial scale that will be all from my side.

my brain don dey overheat, make I go sip canned beer..

That was 1990...maize spacing on a commercial level naa your mate?

7. Aggression:


For a long time on my farm, I used to think goats were gentle creatures that only needed good feed, clean water and enough space to thrive. But over the years, I’ve learned that one of the biggest challenges in goat farming is aggression - subtle, persistent and sometimes shockingly intense. And the funny thing is, the aggression often comes from exactly where you least expect it; from inside the same goat family.

I’ve watched a mother goat turn against her own pregnant daughter without hesitation. I’ve seen siblings lock horns or heads, kids push each other out of the way for feed and older goats chase younger ones just to show who is “boss.” It took me time to understand that goats are naturally hierarchical animals. They fight, they bully and they defend their feeding rights with a kind of hunger that feels endless because truthfully, an average goat is an insatiable eater. If you bring out ten rations, they will still act like they have been starved for days.

With time, I realized I had to find ways to control this aggression, not only for peace on my farm, but to prevent stress-related issues, injuries, aborted pregnancies and unequal feed distribution. Here are the lessons I’ve slowly learned, written from my own experience and ongoing journey:

I learned the importance of separating goat families even close ones.

At first, separating a mother goat from her grown daughter felt strange and unnecessary to me. After all, they had lived together since birth. But I soon discovered that a mother goat does not care about family bonds when dominance is involved.
I’ve watched a heavily pregnant daughter get attacked so fiercely by her own mother that she spent days limping and refusing to feed properly. The instinct to defend food, territory or position in the herd overpowers maternal affection.

Always try and separate;

- Pregnant goats from aggressive goats, including their own mothers.
- Daughters from dominant mothers once they reach maturity.
- Younger goats from older ones during feeding.

This simple adjustment reduced injuries and kept weak goats from being bullied to the point of stress and weight loss.

- Better still provide multiple feeding points.

One thing about goats is this: no matter how much you give them, one goat will always act like the whole ration belongs to it.
I used to put all the feed in one big trough, and every time, the dominant goats would chase the others away. The timid ones stayed hungry.

Now I spread feed and foliage in different corners so each goat has a chance.
This has drastically reduced fighting. The goats no longer compete for a single pile, and the bullies cannot control all the feeding spots at once.

- Always feed the aggressive goats first.

I learned this trick after losing patience with one particular doe who head-butted everything in sight during feeding time.

Feeding the dominant ones first calms them.
They stop bullying while they are busy eating and it gives the smaller goats time to settle into their own spots.

- Always give kids their own feeding space.

Kids may look innocent, but from as early as a few weeks old, they start showing tiny signs of dominance - pushing, jumping, standing on the feed tray and even head-butting weaker mates.

Kids will always want the whole ration for themselves, even if it’s too much for their tiny stomachs.

So now I monitor all the kids together that are less than 2-3 months old

Separate kids during feeding.
Feed them earlier or later than adults.

This makes a big difference. Kids grow smoother and their aggressive behavior reduces because they don’t need to fight for space or food.

I also ensure I reduce stress triggers

I noticed aggression increased when goats were:

- overcrowded
- hot
- hungry for too long
- bored
- mixed with unfamiliar groups

So I make sure the pen is not tight, there is good ventilation and feeding times are consistent. Even adding roughage like hay or browse reduces aggression because goats stay busy chewing instead of fighting.

The Silent bullies:

Some goats don’t fight loudly; they simply block others from reaching feed, stare them down or follow them slowly until they leave.
I’ve learned to watch these behaviors closely.
Sometimes separation is the only solution before things escalate. Now, whenever I'm around and I see a goat repeatedly chasing another forcing it away from feed or pushing it into corners, I step in immediately.
Sometimes rearranging the group or moving one goat into a different pen brings peace.

Aggression in goat farming taught me patience. It taught me observation. And it taught me that, as much as goats live in groups, they don’t always live in harmony - especially when food and dominance are involved.

Goats may be family, but dominance always outweighs bloodline. A mother will attack a pregnant daughter, a kid will fight a sibling for crumbs and a seemingly gentle goat will suddenly become a warrior at feeding time.

My job as a goat farmer is to create a peaceful system that reduces this natural aggression - through separation, proper feeding, possible male castration, ear-tagging, management and understanding the unique personality of each goat.

🌽 MAIZE SPACING RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Rain-fed (smallholder) farming

Row spacing: 75 cm

Plant spacing within the row: 25–30 cm

Plant population: ~53,000–66,000 plants per hectare

2. High-input / Commercial farming

Row spacing: 70–75 cm

Plant spacing within the row: 20–25 cm

Plant population: 60,000–75,000 plants per hectare

3. Dry areas / Low rainfall

Wider spacing to reduce competition for water

Row spacing: 90 cm

Plant spacing: 30–40 cm

Plant population: ~35,000–45,000 plants per hectare

4. If using hybrid maize

Hybrids generally perform best at higher densities

Stay around 65,000–75,000 plants per hectare

---

🌱 Tips for Best Results

Plant one seed per hole for hybrids, 2 seeds then thin to 1 for OPVs.

Ensure good seed–soil contact.

Fertilizer should be band-placed 5 cm beside and 5 cm below the seed.

Avoid too close spacing—it increases disease pressure.

6. Inbreeding is one thing I’ve learned to avoid on my goat farm. It happens when closely related goats like father and daughter, mother and son or even brother and sister start mating with each other. I later realized this reduces the herd’s genetic strength and can cause all kinds of problems I don’t want anywhere near my goat farm.

Inbreeding Risks: What To Expect

From what my vet taught me, inbreeding can lead to:

- Genetic defects showing up in kids
- Fertility dropping
- A weak immune system
- Slow or stunted growth
- Higher kid mortality
- Poor parasite resistance
- Low productivity
- More inherited health issues

Once you see these things happening repeatedly, just know something is off in the bloodline.

Signs to Watch Out For

Should inbreeding problems start to creep in, what to look out for:

- Odd physical shapes or deformities
- Kids that grow too slowly
- Females failing to conceive
- Sudden or frequent sickness
- Strange or weak behavior

When goats start looking like that, it’s like the herd is quietly telling you, “Our genetics need help.”

How to Manage the Male Goats to Avoid Inbreeding problems: Over time, I realized that controlling the males is the real secret. Here’s what I intend to now do:

Castrate some of the males:
Not every male is meant to be a breeding buck. Castrating a few reduces stress, fights, and unwanted mating.

Sell or trade extra males:
Instead of keeping too many male goats, sell off or exchange them with other goat farmers. That way, my herd gets new bloodlines from time to time.

Raise some males for meat:
Not every male will be useful for breeding, but they can still bring money as meat goats.

Pick only the best males for breeding:
choose one or two strong, smart, healthy males and let them do the work. The rest get castrated or sold.

Rotate my breeding buck:
Every 1–2 years, bring in a new male so the bloodline stays fresh and strong.


At the end of the day, I learned that I don’t need to sell all my male kids, I just need to manage them wisely.
That’s how I keep my herd healthy, avoid inbreeding and make sure the farm keeps growing stronger year after year.

5. Health and Watchful Eyes

goats may not talk, but their body language says everything. When one suddenly gets quiet, separates itself from the herd, stops chewing cud or refuses to eat, just know something’s wrong. I don’t wait, I call my vet sharp-sharp. It’s better to spend small money on treatment than lose the whole animal to negligence. Goats are tough but very sensitive animals; once sickness sets in, it can spread fast or weaken the goat beyond recovery if you hesitate.

So far, the most common health problems I’ve faced are; diarrhea, bloating, fever, lice and worm infestations. Diarrhea can happen when goats eat too much fresh grass, spoilt feed or drink dirty water. Once I notice loose stool, I isolate the goat, stop green feed and give clean water with electrolytes or charcoal mixture to stabilize the stomach.

Bloating is another silent killer. Once you see a goat’s belly swelling abnormally and it’s not pregnant, act fast because the goat will stop eating, grind its teeth or look uncomfortable. I’ve learned to always keep some homemade anti-bloat medicine (like vegetable oil mixed with baking soda or commercial anti-bloat mixtures from the vet shop) on standby. Sometimes, gentle movement and massage help the trapped gas escape.

Worms are also a serious hidden problem. Deworming your goats every 2–3 months using recommended dewormers (like Albendazole or Levamisole) helps prevent loss of weight and rough coat. I also spray or dust them occasionally to control lice and ticks, parasites that cause constant itching and anemia.

I sometimes give them salt lick blocks (the animal salt sold in vet shops) are available in their pen. It helps improve appetite, strengthens bones, and supplies trace minerals goats naturally crave.

Another thing I’ve learned: cleanliness is medicine. I clean the goat house often to avoid flies and odor buildup. Dry bedding prevents foot rot and coughs. And never leave wet feed overnight, some goats hate stale food.

Lastly, goats can be mischievous and may continue to wander off and If you leave your kitchen or store open, just know you’re inviting trouble. They can chew papers, carton, yam and even pepper soup ingredients. just mount a solid barricade or fence to restrict their movement, especially around kitchen or food storage area.

- Watch your goats daily, they communicate through behavior.
- Keep basic drugs handy: anti-bloat, dewormer, antibiotics and charcoal
- Provide clean water, mineral lick and cool dry shade.
- Always call your vet early, prevention is cheaper than cure.

4. Shelter and Cleanliness

A goat that sleeps well stays well. Their house doesn’t have to be fancy, but it must be dry and airy. I learned the hard way that wet and urinated smelling floors bring sickness, always try to air out the urinated floor and keep it clean because damp bedding could deteriorate the health of the young goats to say the least.
Now, I keep their pen clean, dry and raised above the ground. Every morning, I sweep out droppings before feeding time. The goats already know the routine, they even move aside when I’m cleaning like they understand it’s house chores hour and doing this could prevent the incidence of foot and mouth disease in goats (especially during the raining season) and pls avoid overcrowding these animals in one tight space too and if you have got new goats, do not fully integrate them with the old ones. Isolate the new goats first for some few weeks and observe their furs and skins and check for any sign of growing pest infestation and egg lice, mites and ticks and treat accordingly and always provide fresh foliage and clean water for them.

3. Feeding and Fun Moments

goats are fascinating herbivore animals, they love to eat and play at the same time. I feed mine with grass, leaves, kitchen waste, pap seller's residues, etc and sometimes peels from sweet potato, yam, cassava and fruits will do. But it is always advisable to mix different leaves with vegetable stems or ugwu vines or most importantly, feed them dry hays or grass always to prevent bloating and improves digestion. It is easy to get these from roadside akara sellers or visit the women or aboki selling vegetables in the market to get these vegetable stalks or vines for free.

You should see how they jump around fighting for who gets the best edibles first 😂.
One funny thing, if you ever see a goat standing on a block, getting a part of its body stretched in a calm and relaxing way or climbing a heap of sand, just know they’re happy and healthy.

That got me thinking 🤔, I should focus on raising smart, active and energetic goats on my farm, not the dull ones. The black goat I have doesn’t even run when people approach her and she seems unbothered even if a knife is at her neck as long as there’s food in front of her, she keeps eating!

She’s also quite dull, she got pregnant again barely two weeks after giving birth and now refuses to breastfeed her newborn kids 🤦. On top of that, she doesn’t mind sharing the same male goat with the white female goat nearby.

The white goat, on the other hand, is the total opposite. She’s a smart, lively and caring mother and her kids are just like her. Before she got pregnant, she would never allow the same male goat that mated with the black one to mount her. Instead, she’d wander off to find a different male outside the area. I’ll definitely be keeping her and her offspring.

2. Call your vet to check your goats

Once you’ve bought your goats, invite a vet to examine them for any signs of illness. If necessary, they can give them the right medications or vaccines to protect your investment.

From my experience, the most common health problems I’ve encountered so far are diarrhea and bloating, vomiting.

To be cont'd.