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When it comes to your vehicle, the alternator is a pivotal piece of machinery. The alternator re-cycles the power your car battery uses while driving, restoring the power it has lost while supplying the engine management, climate, entertainment and host of other systems with the juice they need to run properly.

It takes a lot of battery power to get – and keep – your vehicle running. So much power that if not for the alternator, the battery’s power reserve would not last. Your vehicle’s electrical system depends on an optimally running alternator. When the alternator malfunctions or stops working altogether, it can mean expensive repairs, inconvenience or a break down.

Alternator Warning Signs

Dim lights

The alternator is part of the electrical system of your vehicle. Its key role is to provide power to operate the starter, ignition and all of the electronic accessories in your car. If the alternator starts to die, you might notice your headlights and/or dashboard lights beginning to dim. Once the dash light or headlights dim, it is a clear indication of potential alternator malfunction. A waning alternator may cause other electronic accessories such as power windows and/or power seats to operate a more slowly than usual.

Warning light

Most modern cars have a dashboard warning light that alerts you when the alternator is on the fritz. Usually, the light will be shaped like a battery, though, some might say ALT (for alternator) or GEN (for generator). This light may only trigger if you are using multiple electrical components. It is generally contingent on how much life your vehicle’s alternator has left and how much electricity your vehicle is using.

Weak or dead battery

A car battery, by definition, has a finite life and will not last forever. As good as an alternator is at replenishing your car battery; it can only recharge it to the point that it has a decent amount of life left in it and is able to accept a charge. If the battery is really weak or dead, the alternator cannot bring it back to life. To troubleshoot whether the issue is the alternator or the battery, just charge the battery and restart the vehicle. If the battery is weak or dead, the car will continue to run but the lights will again become dim after a short time, indicating a problem with the charging system. If the vehicle has difficulty starting after the battery is fully charged, the problem likely is with the alternator.

Weird smells

An alternator works in conjunction with a system of belts. If a belt is not turning freely, the excess friction will cause the belt to heat up, which produces a burning rubber smell. If you catch a whiff of a smell similar to that of an electrical fire, this could indicate that the belt is slipping on the alternator pulley, causing poor alternator output. Tightening the belt often does the trick. If the situation arises where tightening your belt does not fix the strange smell and alternator output, we recommend having your alternator evaluated by a professional.

Odd sounds

There are many different parts that spin inside your vehicle’s alternator to produce electrical current. If one of these parts becomes worn or breaks, this could cause a grinding or whining noise. Specifically, worn out bearings inside the alternator have been known to cause this type of noise. If the bushings that the alternator is mounted on have gone bad, a noise will be produced. Alternators are normally replaced as an assembly.

Visual cues

If you are experiencing problems with the electrical system, the alternator itself might be fine because the problem could be with one of the belts connected to the alternator. By doing a visual inspection of the engine compartment, you can determine if a belt is too loose or too tight. If a belt is cracked or worn, you should be able to spot that as well.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/how-to-know-your-car-alternator-is.html

When it comes to your vehicle, the alternator is a pivotal piece of machinery. The alternator re-cycles the power your car battery uses while driving, restoring the power it has lost while supplying the engine management, climate, entertainment and host of other systems with the juice they need to run properly.

It takes a lot of battery power to get – and keep – your vehicle running. So much power that if not for the alternator, the battery’s power reserve would not last. Your vehicle’s electrical system depends on an optimally running alternator. When the alternator malfunctions or stops working altogether, it can mean expensive repairs, inconvenience or a break down.

Alternator Warning Signs

Dim lights

The alternator is part of the electrical system of your vehicle. Its key role is to provide power to operate the starter, ignition and all of the electronic accessories in your car. If the alternator starts to die, you might notice your headlights and/or dashboard lights beginning to dim. Once the dash light or headlights dim, it is a clear indication of potential alternator malfunction. A waning alternator may cause other electronic accessories such as power windows and/or power seats to operate a more slowly than usual.

Warning light

Most modern cars have a dashboard warning light that alerts you when the alternator is on the fritz. Usually, the light will be shaped like a battery, though, some might say ALT (for alternator) or GEN (for generator). This light may only trigger if you are using multiple electrical components. It is generally contingent on how much life your vehicle’s alternator has left and how much electricity your vehicle is using.

Weak or dead battery

A car battery, by definition, has a finite life and will not last forever. As good as an alternator is at replenishing your car battery; it can only recharge it to the point that it has a decent amount of life left in it and is able to accept a charge. If the battery is really weak or dead, the alternator cannot bring it back to life. To troubleshoot whether the issue is the alternator or the battery, just charge the battery and restart the vehicle. If the battery is weak or dead, the car will continue to run but the lights will again become dim after a short time, indicating a problem with the charging system. If the vehicle has difficulty starting after the battery is fully charged, the problem likely is with the alternator.

Weird smells

An alternator works in conjunction with a system of belts. If a belt is not turning freely, the excess friction will cause the belt to heat up, which produces a burning rubber smell. If you catch a whiff of a smell similar to that of an electrical fire, this could indicate that the belt is slipping on the alternator pulley, causing poor alternator output. Tightening the belt often does the trick. If the situation arises where tightening your belt does not fix the strange smell and alternator output, we recommend having your alternator evaluated by a professional.

Odd sounds

There are many different parts that spin inside your vehicle’s alternator to produce electrical current. If one of these parts becomes worn or breaks, this could cause a grinding or whining noise. Specifically, worn out bearings inside the alternator have been known to cause this type of noise. If the bushings that the alternator is mounted on have gone bad, a noise will be produced. Alternators are normally replaced as an assembly.

Visual cues

If you are experiencing problems with the electrical system, the alternator itself might be fine because the problem could be with one of the belts connected to the alternator. By doing a visual inspection of the engine compartment, you can determine if a belt is too loose or too tight. If a belt is cracked or worn, you should be able to spot that as well.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/how-to-know-your-car-alternator-is.html

That is alright.

ogunvic41:
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From the Dashboard to the Window controls, Plastics are widely used in most modern cars today. They're cheap, lightweight, and incredibly durable. Here is a step-by-step process for cleaning them quickly, and safely,

Here are the items you'll need.

- Steam Machine
- Interior Brush
- Microfiber Towel
- Water
- Plastic Cleaner

Steps
1. Spray the cleaner directly onto the plastic in a small area. Immediately wipe the plastic with a dry microfiber towel in light to medium pressure. The fibres within the microfiber towel are designed to pick up and hold the oils and dirt left behind on the plastic.
2. Respray your interior cleaner and then use a soft bristle interior brush to agitate the embedded grime. A lather will be created that holds the suspended dirt.
3. Wipe the foam quickly with a microfiber towel before it dries, otherwise the grime will simply be redistributed and not removed.
4. If the stain persists, the next and most aggressive method is to use an interior scrub pad with light to medium pressure. Once again, apply the cleaner first, and very gently scrub the leather. Extreme caution must be taken with this technique to avoid rubbing away the pigment or colour. The age, condition, and the specific type of leather will dictate its strength
and vulnerability using the scrub pad technique.
5. If you have access to a steam machine, they can be very helpful if used properly. To do this, wrap the head of the nozzle in a microfiber towel. With the nozzle pressure on medium, scrub the plastic to kill bacteria, germs, and allergens. This is a great option, especially on new car acquisitions, pet owners, and families with young children.
6. You can also end the cleaning with a Dashboard Spray Polish from Autofactor.
Most of the time spent with your car is, well, spent inside. So a quick leather cleaning, or light wipe-down during each car wash, will help avoid the constant build-up of body oils and grime, keeping your car looking fresh and new.

Source - http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/how-to-clean-car-interior-plastic.html

Having Car troubles? Share them with our team of expert technicians who are willing to help via the comment box. Its absolutely free.
We can also help find a trusted technician around you if the need arises, as we offer a call a technician service. All these is done virtually and eases you of the stress of finding a technician you can trust.

Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/autofactorng/
Twitter - https://twitter.com/AutofactorNg

Let the questions start rolling in.

Check Your Oil

This is very important!

• Start by draining your old oil.

• Then clean the drain plug on the oil pan, and wash off before you reinstall your oil plan.

• To check your oil run your car for at least 15 minutes so that the oil warms up.

• Park the car on level ground.

• Turn the engine off, wait 15 minutes so the oil can drain back to the oil pan.

• Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean

• Reinsert it and push it all the way in.

• Again pull the dipstick out and read the oil level.

• It should be somewhere between the hash marks. If in the add region add oil according to your manufacturer’s specifications.

Change Your Oil

Today’s manufacturers recommend a longer period between oil changes, the fact remains the more often abrasive dirt and metal particles are removed from your engine the longer it will purr like a kitten. It extends your engines life. If you want to maximize your engine refer to the schedule for severe intervals in your owner’s manual. This is especially important if you drive in stop and go traffic regularly. For years it was recommended your oil be changed every 3000 miles. Those intervals are increasing but there’s no harm in sticking to the old numbers.

Which Oil to Use

There are a number of oils on the market. Let’s quickly review them.

Synthetic Oil – Almost all modern multi weight oils are detergent oils, which remove soot from the internal engine parts, and then suspend those particles in the oil. These particles are too tiny to become trapped by the oil filter so they stay floating in the oil. This is what makes your oil turn darker. These particles don’t hurt your engine. However, when the oil becomes saturated it cannot continue to hold these microscopic particles. Current oil change schedules occur before this happens.

Oil Viscosity – The viscosity of the oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. You will then see the letter W followed by another number. The W stands for “winter.” Most people think it stands for weight. There will then be another number, which tells you the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The oil gets thicker as the number gets bigger.

Changing the Oil Filter

When you change your oil you will also change your oil filer. The easiest is to follow what the manufacture recommends for filter, but there after also after-market filters. These filters will match to the manufacturer’s filters. Keep in mind the quality of manufacturers filters is much higher than the aftermarket filters.

There are also what are referred to as trade brand filters, which are found at many of the quick oil change places. For those who use synthetic oil premium filters are often used. They are higher priced but the benefits have been proven.

Source:http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/oil-tips-to-help-keep-your-engine-in.html

Check Your Oil

This is very important!

• Start by draining your old oil.

• Then clean the drain plug on the oil pan, and wash off before you reinstall your oil plan.

• To check your oil run your car for at least 15 minutes so that the oil warms up.

• Park the car on level ground.

• Turn the engine off, wait 15 minutes so the oil can drain back to the oil pan.

• Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean

• Reinsert it and push it all the way in.

• Again pull the dipstick out and read the oil level.

• It should be somewhere between the hash marks. If in the add region add oil according to your manufacturer’s specifications.

Change Your Oil

Today’s manufacturers recommend a longer period between oil changes, the fact remains the more often abrasive dirt and metal particles are removed from your engine the longer it will purr like a kitten. It extends your engines life. If you want to maximize your engine refer to the schedule for severe intervals in your owner’s manual. This is especially important if you drive in stop and go traffic regularly. For years it was recommended your oil be changed every 3000 miles. Those intervals are increasing but there’s no harm in sticking to the old numbers.

Which Oil to Use

There are a number of oils on the market. Let’s quickly review them.

Synthetic Oil – Almost all modern multi weight oils are detergent oils, which remove soot from the internal engine parts, and then suspend those particles in the oil. These particles are too tiny to become trapped by the oil filter so they stay floating in the oil. This is what makes your oil turn darker. These particles don’t hurt your engine. However, when the oil becomes saturated it cannot continue to hold these microscopic particles. Current oil change schedules occur before this happens.

Oil Viscosity – The viscosity of the oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. You will then see the letter W followed by another number. The W stands for “winter.” Most people think it stands for weight. There will then be another number, which tells you the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The oil gets thicker as the number gets bigger.

Changing the Oil Filter

When you change your oil you will also change your oil filer. The easiest is to follow what the manufacture recommends for filter, but there after also after-market filters. These filters will match to the manufacturer’s filters. Keep in mind the quality of manufacturers filters is much higher than the aftermarket filters.

There are also what are referred to as trade brand filters, which are found at many of the quick oil change places. For those who use synthetic oil premium filters are often used. They are higher priced but the benefits have been proven.

[i]Source:http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/oil-tips-to-help-keep-your-engine-in.html[/i]

Finding a trouble-free used car has nothing to do with luck and everything to do with applying good research and investigative skills. Knowing how to spot potential problems and determining how reliable a used vehicle is can save you from expensive automotive headaches down the road. The following advice can help you to avoid a lemon and find a good value.

Homework
To reduce the risk of purchasing a trouble-prone vehicle, identify models with a good reliability record before you begin shopping. If the car you’re interested in is known to have certain trouble spots, you know to pay special attention to those components during inspection.

Inspection
No matter whom you buy from, always look over the vehicle thoroughly and, if possible, take it to a mechanic for a complete inspection. Dress in old clothes and give the car a good going-over. You can learn a great deal just by using your eyes, ears, and nose.
Take along a friend for help. Do your inspection in broad daylight on a dry day as floodlighted lots can make cars look shiny and hide body defects. The car should be parked on a level surface and shouldn’t have been driven for at least an hour before your inspection.

Exterior

Body condition- Check each body panel and the roof, looking for scratches, dents, and rust. Examine the lines of the fenders and doors. Misaligned panels or large gaps can indicate either sloppy assembly at the factory or shoddy repair. The paint colour and finish should be the same on every body panel.
If you think a dent may have been patched with body filler, put a small mag¬net on it; it won’t stick to an area with body filler. If other parts of the car have been repainted, there may be paint adhering to the rubber seals around the hood and trunk lid.
Minor cosmetic flaws and light scratches are no cause for concern, but rust is. Check the outer body for blistered paint or rust. Also inspect the wheel wells, the rocker panels beneath the doors, and the door bottoms. Bring a flashlight for looking inside the wheel wells for rust.
Open and close each door, the hood, and the trunk. Gently lift and let go of each door, particularly the driver’s door. If it seems loose on its hinges, the car has seen hard or long use. Inspect any rubber seal for tearing or rot.
Glass- Look carefully at the vehicle glass to make sure there are no cracks or large, pocked areas. A small stone chip may not be cause for alarm, though you should bring it up as a bargaining point in negotiations. But cracks in the windshield will worsen and lead to a costly repair.

Suspension- Walk around the car to see if it’s standing level. Bounce each corner up and down. If the shock absorbers are in good shape, the car should rebound just once; it shouldn’t keep moving up and down. Grab the top of each front tire and tug it back and forth. If you feel play in it or hear a clunking or ticking sound, the wheel bearings or suspension joints may be shot.

Lights and lenses- Have a friend confirm that all lights are working, Make sure all light lenses and reflectors are intact and not cracked, fogged with moisture, or missing.

Tyre- You can tell a lot from the tyres. A car with less than, say, 20,000 miles on the odometer should probably still have its original tyres. Be wary of a low-mileage car with new tires; the vehicle’s odometer may have been rolled back. Also check that all four tires are the same. Any different tyres may show that they have been replaced.
Thread wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the car. Ask if the tires have been regularly rotated. If not, the wear is usually more severe on the drive wheels.
Aggressive drivers tend to put heavy wear on the outside shoulder of the front tyres, at the edge of the sidewall. Assume that the car has been driven hard if that area shows heavier wear.
Tyres that have been driven while over-inflated tend to wear more in the middle than on the sides. Chronically under-inflated tyres show more wear on the sides. Cupped tyres, those that are worn unevenly along the tread’s circumference, may be a sign of a problem with the steering, suspension, or brakes.
Tyres must have at least 1/16 inch of tread to be legal. Check the tread depth with a tread-depth tool (available at auto-parts stores).
Examine the sidewalls for scuffing, cracks, or bulges, and look on the edge of each rim for dents or cracks. And be sure to check that the spare is in good shape and that the proper jack and lug wrench are present.

Interior
It’s the inside of a car that may matter most since that’s where you’ll be spending the most time.
Odour. When you first open the car door, sniff the interior. A musty, mouldy, or mildewy smell could indicate water leaks. Remove the floor mats and check for wet spots on the carpet. An acrid smell may indicate that the car was used by a smoker. Check the lighter and ashtray for evidence. Some odours, such as mould or smoke, can be very hard to get rid of. If you don’t like what you smell, find another car.

Seats- Try out all the seats even though you may not plan to sit in the rear. Upholstery shouldn’t be ripped or badly worn, particularly in a car with low mileage. Try all the seat adjustments to make sure they work properly and that you can find a good driving position.

Pedals- The rubber on the brake, clutch, and gas pedals gives an indication of use. A car with low miles shouldn’t show much wear. Pedal rubber that’s worn through in spots—or brand-new—indicates that the car has been driven a lot.

Instruments and controls- Turn the ignition switch, but without starting the engine. All the warning lights—including the “Check engine” light—should illuminate for a few seconds and go off when you start the engine. Note if the engine is hard to start when cold and if it idles smoothly. Then try out every switch, button, and lever.
With the engine running, turn on the heater full blast to see how hot it gets, and how quickly. Switch on the air conditioning and make sure it quickly blows cold.
Sound system. Check radio reception on AM and FM. If there is a CD player, try loading and ejecting a disc. If you plan on using an MP3 player or an iPod in the car, bring that along and test out the connection if there is one.

Roof- Check the headliner and roof trim for stains or sags to see if water is leaking through the sunroof, ill-fitting doors, or windows. If equipped with a sunroof or moon roof, check to see if it opens and closes properly and seals well when shut. Inspect the convertible top for tears by shining a flashlight up into it.

Trunk- Use your nose as well as your eyes. Sniff and look for signs of water entry. See if the carpeting feels wet or smells musty, and check the spare-tire well for water or rust.

Under the hood: Engine related components
It’s best to make these checks with the engine cool. Look first at the general condition of the engine bay. Dirt and dust are normal, but be wary if you see oil splattered about or on the pavement under the engine compartment. Also watch for a battery covered with corrosion, or wires and hoses hang¬ing loose.
Hoses and belts. Squeeze the vari¬ous rubber hoses running to the radiator, air conditioner, and other parts. The rubber should be firm and supple, not rock-hard, cracked, or mushy. Feel the drive belts to determine whether they are frayed.

Fluids - The owner’s manual will point out where to look to check all fluid levels. Engine oil should be dark brown or black, but not gritty. If the oil is honey-coloured, it was just changed. If the dipstick has water droplets on it or grey or foamy oil, it could indicate a cracked engine block or blown head gasket, two serious problems. Transmission fluid should be pinkish, not brown, and smell like oil, with no “burnt” odour. The dipstick shouldn’t leave visible metal particles on the rag, another sign of a serious problem.
Check the automatic-transmission fluid with the engine warmed up and running. On some, the dipstick has two sets of marks for checking when the engine is either cold or warm. Power-steering and brake-fluid levels should be within the safe zone.
Radiator. Look into the plastic reservoir that’s connected by a rubber hose to the radiator. The coolant should be greenish or orange, not a milky or rusty colour. Greenish stains on the outside of the radiator are a sign of pinhole leaks.

Battery - Some “maintenance free” batteries have a built-in charge indicator. A green indicator usually means the battery is in good shape; yellow or black usually means it is dying or dead. These indicators reveal the condition of just one cell and may not give an accurate reading on the health of the whole battery. If the battery has filler caps, wipe off the top with a rag, then carefully pry off or unscrew the caps to look at the liquid electrolyte level. A low level may mean that the battery has been working too hard. A mechanic can check out the charging system and do a “load test” on the battery.

Under the vehicle
If you can find where a car was usually parked, see if that part of the garage floor or driveway is marked from old puddles of gasoline, oil, coolant, or transmission fluid. Clear water that drips from under the car on a hot day is probably just water condensed from the air conditioner.
Feel the tailpipe for residue. If it’s black and greasy, it means burnt oil. Tailpipe smudge should be dry and dark grey. While some rust is normal, heavy rust might be OK but could mean a new exhaust system might be needed.
If the vehicle is high enough to slide under, you may be able to do some basic checks underneath. (If not, make sure your mechanic checks it.) Spread an old blanket on the ground and look under the engine with a flashlight. If you see oil drips, oily leaks, or green or red fluid on the engine or the pavement beneath the car, it’s not a good sign.
On a front-wheel-drive car, examine the constant-velocity-joint boots inboard of the front wheels. They are round, black, rubber bellows at the ends of the axle shafts. If the boots are split and leaking grease, assume that the car has bad CV joints, another costly repair.
Structural components with kinks and large dents in the floor pan or fuel tank all indicate a past accident. Welding on the frame suggests a damaged section might have been replaced or cut out to perform repair work. Fresh undercoating may hide recent structural repairs.

Take the car to an independent mechanic
Before you close the deal, have it scrutinised by a repair shop that routinely does diagnostic work. A dealer should have no problem lending you the car to have it inspected as long as you leave identification.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/how-to-inspect-used-car-before-buying.html

Check for Uneven Tyre Wear
When tyre inflation is maintained and you still suffer from uneven wear, it may indicate you need a wheel alignment. It can also indicate you have been improperly using your brakes, shock problems, internal tyre damage, worn bushings, or a bent wheel.

Check Tyre Tread
Different countries have different requirements pertaining to tread. In North America all Tyres sold must have “wear bars” moulded into the Tyres. This makes it easy to know when Tyres must be legally replaced. The general rule of thumb is that when the tread is worn down to 1 1/16” or 1.5mm the Tyres need to be replaced.

Keep Caps on Valves
One small piece can cause so much grief. When the valve cap goes missing it can lead to a slow leak. These caps stop moisture and dirt from getting in. Check your valve caps often and make sure they are not damaged or missing. When you have Tyres replaced ask the shop to ensure the Tyres have new valves.

Keep Tyres Properly Inflated
Make sure your tyres are properly inflated. When Tyres are under-inflated it causes excessive heat and stress that can result in Tyre failure. To get the most life out of your Tyres, invest in a pressure gauge so that you can check your Tyres regularly. Once a month is recommended, but during hot weather it should be more often. For an accurate reading check when vehicle has been driven less than one mile and when the Tyres are cold. Inflate according to manufacturer’s recommendations.

Do the Wet Thumb Test
When you are using a service station air pump before you being to put the air into your Tyre, depress the inflator valve pin with your thumbnail. You are checking for moisture. If your thumb becomes wet, go into service station and let the staff know the tank needs to be drained. Find a different service station. Why is this so important? Well because if that moisture gets trapped in the Tyre it can lead to variations in the Tyre pressure and it can also corrode rims.

Rotate Your Tyres
Regular Tyre rotation aids in Tyres wearing evenly and it will lead to the maximum Tyre life. Your first rotation is very important. Your owner’s manual will provide you with a rotation period and pattern. If you aren’t able to locate this schedule, then rotate your Tyres every 6000 to 7500 miles or 9700 to 12000km.

Temperature and Tyre Inflation
Temperature affects Tyre pressure. When the temperatures drop or soar your Tyre pressure decreases. When Tyres are under-inflated they can wear and faster and result in poor driving

Using Wheel Cleaner
Your wheels take a beating contacting with the road. Combine that with brake dust and you’ve got some tough stains to remove. Regular car wash soap just can’t remove this grime and grit. You need to use a cleaner that is
specifically designed for stains. There are different wheel cleaner formulas for different wheel finishes such as chrome and aluminium. You can also add a layer of protection by using wheel polish on metal wheels, and wax on painted wheels.

Always Lubricate Your Lug Nuts
If you don’t occasionally lubricate your lug nuts they will seize to the studs as a result of corrosion. Repairs can be costly and if you have a flat Tyre you could find yourself in need of a tow. Each time you rotate your Tyres it’s a good idea to use an anti-seize lubricant, which you can buy at your local automotive store. Use a wire brush to clean the studs then wipe the lubricant on. It’s formulated to stop lug nuts from seizing while at the same time stops them from working their way off while you are driving. If you do find yourself with a seized lug nut, try spraying Liquid Wrench or WD-40 on the affected lug nut. Wait 10 to 30 minutes for it to penetrate. Then use your ratchet to remove the lug nut.

Have a Regular Wheel Alignment
Wheel alignments are important. When your wheels are not properly aligned your Tyres will wear out sooner, you’ll have poorer handling, and it can cause wear to the rack and pinion or other steering components. Refer to your owner’s manual for recommended schedule, otherwise at least once a year have your wheel alignment checked. If you have a 4x4 or you do a lot of off road or rough road have your wheel alignment checked more often. If your vehicle pulls to the right or left have your wheel alignment.

Source:http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/07/how-to-keep-your-tyres-and-wheels-in.html

The fuel system is key to your car running smoothly. The fuel system fees the engine the gas/diesel it requires to run and if any part of the fuel system isn’t running properly it can lead to major problems.

The Fuel Sending Unit

This is where the fuel is help. The fuel reaches the tank via the filler tube. There is a sending unit that send information back to your gauge about the amount of fuel you have. If this sending unit stops functioning your will not get an accurate reading of how much fuel you have. If your fuel gauge stops working the problem will be either with the gauge itself or with the fuel sending unit.

The Fuel Pump

In the newer vehicles the fuel pump is almost always inside the fuel tank. On older vehicles it is attached to the engine or on the frame rail. If the fuel pump begins to malfunction your vehicle can stumble and run very rough. If the fuel pump fails your vehicle will not run. Most modern fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the ignition key on. If you do not hear the pump running and your car won’t start it could be your fuel pump.

Fuel Filter

A clean fuel filter is important to the performance of your engine and its life expectancy. Fuel injectors have very tiny openings that can quickly become clogged so the fuel filter stops these particles from getting through. If your vehicle has high mileage change the fuel filter annually. For new vehicles follow the manufacturer’s direction. Signs of a clogged fuel filter include sputtering at high speed or the engine not starting. This is the most common problem with the fuel system.

Fuel Injectors

Since 1986 most domestic cars have been fuel injected. The fuel injector is a tiny electric valve, which is opened and closed by an electric signal. Dirty injector happen over time deposits sneak by the fuel filter. This can cause fuel injectors to stick open sending too much fuel to the engine or to become plugged sending to little fuel to the engine. The use of a regular fuel system cleaner helps to keep the injectors clean and can be purchased at auto stores, department stores, and most gas stations. Put it in your empty tank and then fill up. This will clean your injectors. Repeat every 3 months.


Some Last Minute Fuel Tips

• Make sure you tighten your fuel cap.
• When your cap is lose or missing fuel will evaporate off, so make sure your cap is tight.
• Did you know if you park in the sun you will experience fuel loss due to evaporation, so park in the shade.
• Don’t bother topping off your fuel tank. When the automatic nozzle clicks off stop pumping otherwise it slops around and seeps out, which is a waste of your money.
• Properly inflated tires means better fuel mileage. Under-inflated tires means poorer fuel mileage.
• Keep your engine tuned up. A properly tuned vehicle can boost your fuel mileage by about 5%. A misfiring spark plug can reduce your fuel efficiency by as much as 30%.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/06/tips-for-healthy-fuel-system.html

Fuel injectors spray or inject fuel into the internal combustion engine in extremely precise amounts. Injectors consist of an electrical coil and nozzle, through which fuel is directed to the combustion chamber. Over time, combustion blow-by and fuel contaminates build up in the nozzle, causing the spray patterns to lose precision, resulting in loss of fuel efficiency, decline in engine performance and, often times, unacceptable levels of emissions. Common symptoms of this clogging include hesitation, misfires and sputtering. For optimal performance, fuel injectors should be cleaned every 15,000 miles or when a decrease in performance is noticed.
Keeping fuel injectors clean is much simpler and less costly than servicing them when they become a problem. Prevention involves using a quality fuel system cleaner. These are additive products specifically designed to clean gasoline fuel injectors and related components in just one tankful. These additives are available for both gasoline and diesel fueled engines. All you have to do is dump a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in your full tank of gas and allow it to complete the cleaning process as you drive, that simple! Fuel injector cleaner can remove deposits from clogged fuel injectors while increasing fuel performance and reducing emissions.


Your vehicle’s fuel system and its injectors are what keeps your engine revving and on the move. If you are experiencing sputtering and misfires, there may be a clogging issue that is beyond what the pour-in cleaners can address. Professional technicians use special pressurized cleaning systems to aggressively remove stubborn deposits.

Source - http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/06/how-to-clean-fuel-injectors.html

It doesn’t matter where you live, or how hard you try. Somehow, some way, your car is going to get dirty again. Even after its been pouring rain, cars tend to gather a thin film of dust within hours. The car interior too no matter how hard you may try, dust, food, coffee, and more seem to trickle in, creating a layer of filth for you to dig through. Of course, getting your car washed and detailed is always an option. Though, given the expense of both, it’s likely that you’ll want to do either as little as possible.
Luckily, we've put together a list of the five best cleaning hacks that will keep your car cleaner and more spotless than ever before.
Take a look at our tips and tricks and see how to quickly take care of that window tinting job, those leather seats, or even your window wipers.

Olive Oil
You’ve probably heard of some of the amazing health benefits of olive oil. Rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, it has proven to work wonders from the inside out. In recent years, however, we’ve seen olive oil turn into more than the awesome health bomb that it is. Now, hair stylists recommend olive oil for chemical-free hair treatment and aestheticians for skin solutions ranging from rosacea to acne. It’s no wonder then that we’ve found great success using olive oil as a mild and natural leather treatment for seats and the dashboard. If you’re looking for a quick condition but don’t have anything on hand, then reach for your pantry for a jar of extra virgin olive oil. Avoid applying directly to the seats and dash, however, as this can cause stains. Instead, put some olive oil on a lint-free cloth and gently swipe at the area, refraining from scrubbing. Your car won’t just look shiny, it will smell and feel great, too.



Toothpaste
Welcome to the age of do-it-yourself where pretty much everything is fair game. We’ve got to hand it to whoever came up with this next DIY car cleaning hack, because it doesn’t just work, but it works great. If your car headlights are dim, cloudy, or yellow with age and you just don’t have the time or money to take them in to be replaced, then reach for your bottle of toothpaste that’s sitting on your bathroom sink. Use a paper-towel to completely coat your headlights in the toothpaste and let it sit for a few moments before beginning to scrub. This will allow the paste to begin to lift the oxidation that has taken place and warped your lights. Using the rough side of a sponge (or even toothbrush) begin to light scrub at your headlights, working the toothpaste into the plastic lights. To remove, rinse with warm water and pat or air dry. While you should ultimately look toward a headlight restoration specialist, the toothpaste trick will leave your car’s lights clear in the in-between.


Rubbing Alcohol
You know that frustrated feeling when your windshield wipers don’t so much wipe as they do smear? You’re not alone. Unfortunately, smearing wipers are the kind that typically needs to be replaced. The problem, of course, is that many people do not have the time to head out to get new wipers when this happens. If you’re in a pickle and need to get your wipers in a workable order as soon as possible, then grab a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Using a piece of cloth or washcloth to spread the alcohol across the rubber part of the wiper blade. This will help seal the blade, making it slide more easily across your windshield, making your wipers work as they’re meant to.


Coffee Filters
Because they have tiny holes in them (to filter things out, of course), coffee filters work well for cleaning out vents and catching tiny dust particles in your car. Take your filters and give all of your filters, dashboard, and the nooks and crannies a good wipe down, collecting the dust that’s collected. When you’ve finished, dip the filters into water that’s been mixed with a little apple cider vinegar to gently ease stains out of your car’s seats, floor, or even to give a gentle wipe down to your tinted windows.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/06/four-ways-to-keep-your-car-clean-you.html

cc: marpol

If your battery has died, you may be able to use jumper cables to jump start it from some good Samaritan's vehicle. If you can safely use jumper cables on your vehicle, make sure that the battery on the good Samaritan's vehicle has at least as much voltage as your own. As long as you hook up the cables properly, it doesn't matter whether your vehicle has negative ground and the GS's vehicle has positive ground, or your vehicle has an alternator and the GS's vehicle has a generator.

If either vehicle has an electronic ignition system or is an alternatively fuelled vehicle, the use of jumper cables may damage it.
To safely jump a start, follow these steps:
1. Take out your jumper cables - It's a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don't have jumper cables, you have to find a good Samaritan who not only is willing to assist you but who has jumper cables as well.

2. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
Engage both parking brakes as well.

3. Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery.
It has "POS" or "+" on it, or it's bigger than the negative terminal.

4. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.

5. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery.

6. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn't near the battery.
Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open.

7. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes.

8. Try to start your vehicle. If it won't start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the good Samaritan run his or her engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won't start, your battery may be beyond help.
If the jump works and your car starts, don't shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won't start the next time you use it, the battery isn't holding a charge and needs to be replaced.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/05/how-to-prevent-your-car-from-thieves.html

In a bid to blow you away and keep you informed at the same time, we compiled a list of amazing facts about cars you have never heard.

1. Did you know the average car has over 30,000 parts?

2. 92% of new cars in Brazil use ethanol, which is produced from sugarcane as fuel.

3. 75% of all the cars that Rolls Royce have ever produced are still road worthy

4. Volkswagen Own Bentley, Porsche, Lamborghini, Audi, Ducati and Bugatti.

5. The First ever car accident occurred in Ohio, in the year 1891

6. It’s against the law to drive a dirty car in Russia

7. In Turkmenistan car drivers always get 120litres of free petrol monthly.

8. In 1941, henry Ford made a car out of Soybean

9. In NYC, it’s illegal to use your horn except it’s an emergency

10 95% of a cars lifetime is spent parked.

11 The Arrow next to your fuel gauge tells you which side your tank is.

Source: http://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/04/amazing-facts-you-didnt-know-about-your.html
Cc: Marpol

The Engine is the heart of the car as it keeps the car and other parts of the car working. Therefore, the need to keep it healthy for optimum performance cannot be overemphasized. The Engine is also the most expensive part of the car to replace, so its economically important to be healthy too. Although most of us overlook the engine and just go ahead driving the car until we hear it make noise before we check, there are many basic checks that can be done to keep the engine safe, thereby preventing the expenses and troubles that will come with a faulty one.

Oil Changing – this is probably the most important method used in keeping the Engine healthy. There is need to check the Oil in the engine regularly and replace when necessary as the oil helps in keeping the engine parts lubricated and preventing over-heating of the engine. Many car manufacturers suggest that the car oil should be changed every 5000 Miles, but there is still the need to check regularly due to leaks that may occur and render this advice invaluable. Changing the oil alone doesn’t do justice to the engines health, the oil filter – a part of the car that catches all the dirt and debris floating around inside of your engine and keeps the junk from circulating back through engine – should also be changed. Changing the Oil and filter of the car will keep it working at optimum level

Keeping your cooling system Working – Because of the work being done by the engine, it produces large amount of heat which needs to be managed else leading to failure. That’s why there is the cooling system which consists of the radiator, thermostat, water pump and coolant. The Engine can be cooled with the use of coolant and water which is inserted into the car radiator which is then pumped to the engine after the thermostat determines an increase in heat. Therefore, there is a need to check their level of the coolant regularly.

Fuel your car before it gets low - Your car fuel has a certain amount of sediment in it that settles to the bottom of your gas tank. After years of driving around and many fill-ups, there can actually be a fair amount of junk at the bottom of your fuel tank. Your fuel filter will catch a lot of this sediment and keep it out of your car's fuel lines and your engine. However, if you consistently run your car all the way down to empty, you're pulling from the bottom-of-the-barrel and all the extra junk that's accumulated there. If the sediment gets through the fuel filter (some of it can) it can get into the engine and cause internal damage. It puts debris in areas where it shouldn't be and causes your fuel system and other parts of your engine to work harder. Some people recommend keeping a half-tank of fuel at all times. You may not want to fill-up that often, but make sure that you're not running the gas all the way down to empty. Your engine will thank you for it.

Change Your Fuel filter – Because of the sediments mentioned above in the car fuel, there is need to change the fuel filter regularly as after a long time of preventing dirt from the engine it may be clogged. A new fuel filter will keep the fuel flowing into your engine clean. Your engine will have less build-up inside of it and will last longer if it's not working as hard to burn the fuel it's getting.

Make sure the Belt is Intact – The Engine has a belt in it that runs most of the vital components in the car which include running the fan, water pump, alternator and air conditioner. Any time your engine is on the belt is running, however if it’s not running it may lead to damage. Because they are always running, the engine belts are susceptible to cracks and eventual failure. Check regularly for any cracks so as to prevent its failure while the engine is running.

Source - https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/04/five-ways-to-keep-your-engine-healthy.html

By trying to put a car in motion in P is a death sentence to your Automatic Transmission.

There is a 'Pin' inside your transmission, positioned near the valve body, which engages your different driving selections ( This is coupled to your Inhibitor/gear selector switch). It would break and the resultant broken pieces have a high probability of being sucked in from the valve body.
( note that the oil filter lies at the bottom and the pin or even the valve switches lie a little above it)
So, your transmission would sooner or later fail.
Also, note that with your forced shifting, you are exerting unnecessary pressure on the Solenoids of the valve body. Specially the BIG ONE called SLT solenoid or TCC solenoid or Force motor Solenoid.

With shifting to N neutral position, you don't do much harm except for the little extra load on your brakes when you intend to stop your vehicle.
Long term usage might harm the Torque Converter due to the inadvertent Engaging and Disengaging

femi9naija:
In an automatic gear vehicle, can't the gear be moved to Park position to stop it. My car was rear ended by an SUV who lost his brakes and that was my argument. So I'll like to know if it's okay in such situation to engage the gear in Park

The stop function of the car is a very important to the car for its safety and that of the passengers. Whether your vehicle is equipped with disc or drum brakes, you expect them to work when you hit the brake pedal.

Causes of Brake Failure

Functioning brakes stop a vehicle by using friction. In this way, they are unlike the engine, which must always be kept lubricated to run smoothly. In front brakes, friction stops the brake callipers and pads. In rear brakes, friction hits the brake drums and shoes.

1. Grease or oil on brakes causes brake failure, because it interferes with friction. If oil leaks, it may indicate that an oil seal has failed.
2. When the brakes overheat to a great degree, the metal in the brake rotors or drums develops hard spots. These are known as hot spots. The hot spots resist the friction from the brake shoes and pads. Because the shoes or pads have nothing they can grasp, there's no friction. Consequently, braking power is lost.
3. Brakes that squeal indicate that the brake pads are wearing thin. By the time the brakes begin making a grinding sound, they've worn down past the pads to the rotors, which will cost more than pads to replace.

Signs of Brake Failure

Inspect brake pads and shoes annually and replace them if they are worn. Change the brake fluid every 48,000 miles, every four years, or during regular brake servicing.

1. The anti-lock brake system light comes on.
2. When accelerating, you feel a lot of drag.
3. The brake pedal pulses when you brake.
4. You hear clicking, grinding, or squeaking when you apply the brake.
5. The car grabs, or pulls to one side

Danger Caused by a bad break
If the brake system is failing, the vehicle may pull to one side. This situation can cause accidents that range from fender-benders to serious collisions. You might also feel pulling if there's been a leak of brake fluid, if the brakes aren't adjusted properly or if the brake has locked.

The most apparent danger in brake failure is the possibility of injury or death. As a result, it is important to wear a seat belt and to be certain that guidelines for infant and child car seats are met to ensure safety. Don't forget to be alert to and aware of pedestrians on or near the roadway.

Another concern is property damage. This includes the vehicle itself but also trees, power lines, highway signs and telephone poles. Damage to private or public property will need to be compensated, which can affect your auto insurance premium.

How to Handle Brake Failure

Complete brake failure in modern vehicles is rare, but it can happen. This can be the result of a defective brake system from the manufacturer, so pay attention to recall notices. Total brake failure could also occur if all the brake fluid has leaked out. Fortunately, most of us would notice either a leak or a sound before that happened.

One common temporary brake failure occurs when the vehicle hydroplanes. This happens when the brakes are wet, usually after driving through a deep puddle. If you experience this, remove your foot from the accelerator. Hold the steering wheel straight. Do not swerve or jerk the vehicle. This way, the vehicle will slow down and you can regain control of the car

Remain Calm - Perhaps the most important action a driver can take when the brakes fail is to remain calm. Panicking doesn't help.

Lift Foot off accelerator - the first action step is to lift the foot from the accelerator. Notice the flow of traffic and any obstacles or pedestrians, and look for a place to pull over safely.

Down shift to a lower gear - This is called engine-braking. Whether your vehicle is an automatic or a standard. As the vehicle slows down, keep shifting to lower gears.

Use the Parking brake - Once the vehicle is moving at 30 mph or less, you can try engaging the parking brake. Because it is a separate system from the regular brakes, it should still work.

Put car in reverse - this should only be done in last resort as it could destroy the car, so never use it as a first response.

Try to maneuver the car off the road if possible as you come to a complete stop. Turn your hazards on and call or wait for help.

Source: https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/04/how-to-handle-brake-failure-and-its.html

Driving a car with a cracked windshield in Nigeria is illegal and makes you susceptible to VIO scrutiny. Although this may seem overestimated when there is just a small crack and leaves you wondering why it’s taken as a serious issue, it’s not. Besides the part the law plays, driving with a cracked windshield has other disadvantages for the safety of both the car and the driver. They include:

Windshield cracks spread quickly
It may take a long time to spread, a cracked windshield will eventually spread regardless of how small it is. This may then lead to more expenses as the small crack may have required just the use of epoxy (an adhesive) but may now require complete changing which is more expensive.

Cracks may block your vision
There is need to see the road when driving for safety of the driver, and other road users. A crack on the windshield may however affect this important factor, not allowing the driver see things such as potholes or pedestrians and therefore causing accidents. So there is need to fix a cracked windshield to be safe

Windshields provide extra support
Besides its main use of shielding the wind from the driver while in motion, the wind shield also provides support for some structures such as the roof in the car. When the windshield is cracked, the support of the roof has been diminished therefore it can collapse when exposed to load. Another important car part the windshield supports is the Air Bag, when cracked or not properly fixed the airbag may not deploy when needed which is very dangerous to the driver’s safety.

Fines
The Nigerian government have organizations that are charged with checking out the Safety of all road users and vehicles and this includes checking out for Cracked windshields. Driving around with a cracked windshield attracts a fine which is not economical considering the fact that you’ll still have to fix the windshield so it’s like paying double.

Vehicle Appearance
We all agree there is need to keep vehicles attractive and in good shape for optimum performance and because it speaks who we are. A cracked windshield however, is not attractive.
It may seem uneconomical and unnecessary to fix a cracked windshield as soon as it happens, the aforementioned reasons should however be considered before going ahead to drive without fixing it. Reach out to us at Autofactor to get a new windshield or get the old one fixed.

Twitter: AutofactorNG
Website: Autofactorng.com
CALL TO ORDER +234 (0) 908 1155 505

Source: https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/04/importance-of-using-un-cracked.html

More Pictures

In today’s automotive industry, there are a lot of car accessories depending on their uses in the car. Some are for emergency cases and should not be toyed with while others are there just to add coolness to your car. Here is a list of car accessories any car owner should not do without.

Emergency Accessories:

Jumper cables - when you’re stuck with a dead battery, the jumper cable can rescue you. It allows you start your car off another cars battery when your car can’t start yours. It’s a true life saver.

Tyre Air Compressor – In situations of flat tyre, this accessory can allow you inflate your tire pending the time you get it to a repair shop. It uses the plug of the cigarette lighter in the car and it is small enough to stay in the car trunk.


Tow Rope –Sometimes there’s little that can be done to a car on the road, it will need professional help which may be far away. There’s therefore need to move it there. This is where the tow rope comes in. it allows another car pull the faulty car.


Interior car accessories

GPS
When you're travelling in unfamiliar territory without another person present to help navigate, a GPS is invaluable. A GPS can provide vocal instructions that allow you to keep your hands on the wheel and eyes on the road.

Universal Car Air Vent Phone Holder – This allows you keep an eye on your phone and on the wheels at the same time. That important call you must not miss may just be coming soon.

Bluetooth Hands-free - with the Bluetooth headset you can make phone calls and listen to music while on the wheels. This way you feel safe and other road users too are safe.

Air freshener – with the amount of time spent in the car and the family and friends you my have to pick, you don’t want to welcome them with an offensive smell.

Universal car charger – This will never let your phone run out of power especially in this scarcity period. Your friends will also thank you for this.

Car Seat Lumbar Massage Cushion– This accessory allows you drive around town in comfort especially when it’s a long distance trip. Its needed.

Your car is an expensive investment, and by purchasing the right accessories you can keep your car looking good, prevent yourself from becoming stranded by the side of the road, and show the world how cool you are.

Feel free to add yours.

Source : https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/04/must-have-car-accessories.html

Besides being used to show affluence, the sole purpose of a car is to provide comfort to the owner when moving from point A to point B. But when this purpose is defeated what happens? The car become useless. There are a lot of factors that may diminish the productivity of a car and we’ll all agree that most of them are around the working condition of the car. An automobile is a machine, so its therefore subjected to faults which can only be mitigated by constant check and proper management. However, when these faults eventually come, what the owner does determines the future of the vehicle. The requisite thing to do is to visit a technician, but is the technician the right one? Can he fix the vehicle and not add to its problems? Another issue with the technician is can you pay him without having too much negative influence on your pocket? Can you trust that this technician isn’t exaggerating the issue just to get more funds from you? When you finally find a technician many times a part will require change which will also be an issue as a new genuine one will be needed for optimum performance. You don’t want a part that will become faulty almost as soon as you purchase, that’s the guaranty new genuine products offer. These are the issues Autofactors aim to fix. We understand the following things:

1. You are tired of being swindled and duped by your local mechanic
2. You are tired of buying fake/ Tokunbo vehicle spare parts from roadside shops
3. You are tired of the embarrassment your car has caused you
4. You require services of an Experienced and certified auto technician
5. You sometimes need expert advice on problems you’ve been having with your car
6. Sometimes getting time to get quality products is a problem.


So last year we developed a quality E-commerce brand that covers all these. Autofactor provides brand new auto-parts and accessories OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) products such as; spare/replacement parts, tyres, wheels, batteries, grille guards, fluids, lubricants and so much more. We also offer services such as outsourcing quality, well trained and experienced technicians (i.e. automotive mechanical engineer, automotive electrical engineer, auto-body technician and etc.) that are affordable. We also deliver to you nationwide so you don’t have to go through the stress.

Contact us at;
Call- 09081155505
Web – Autofactorng.com
Mail- care@autofactorng.com, info@autofactorng.com
Twitter - @AutofactorNg
Facebook – AutofactorNg
Instagram – @AutofactorNg
LinkedIn - AutofactorNg

Source: https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/04/why-choose-autofactor.html

@kaeforum We do agree with you on this. That's why there is the need to sensitive the general public on the advantages of New parts and that its even cost-effective. Also on the issue of "Original new-parts" that's what our brand provides - Affordable and genuine New motor parts

Everyday car owners are faced with a selection choice when trying to replace a bad car part - the Used car part (otherwise known as Second-hand or Tokunbo) and the new Car part. A major factor that influences the choice is the cost, the harsh economic condition of the country often makes users go for the Tokunbo parts There is also the erroneous belief by most people especially road-side car technicians that Used Parts are of better quality than the new ones. There is a little truth in this, most tokunbo parts are Quality, but its only because they have been imported from countries where quality is not compromised. This however doesn’t mean that they are better than new products. The comparison is only valid when the new product purchased isn't a genuine one. Although the there is a price difference between both parts, its only right to go for a trusted new part for the following reasons

Longevity – regardless of the quality of a used auto part, there is no way they will last as long as a genuine new one if properly managed. For example, a part that should normally last 10 years may have been used for 8 years before being sold off as "Tokunbo" at a cheaper price. This definitely will influence how long you will use it, as 8 years have been taken off its stipulated period it should last.

Warranty – Some Tokunbo retailers tend to offer warranties on their products, but it's never as much as much as those offered on new parts. Like the six-month warranty being offered on Newly purchased batteries from Autofactor, there is no way you'll find that much warranty on a Tokunbo battery because the chances of it lasting month is not guaranteed.
Depreciation – Eventually one may want to sell a car part that has been used. A part that had been purchased newly will generate more returns than the second-hand ones which reduced drastically as its being sold to its third user. The reason for this is because of the declining quality as the age increases. Auto parts are not made to last forever. they will eventually wear out. For example, the tyre expiry date we talked about in a previous blogpost.

Recycling – Some tokunbo sellers in a bid to make extra profit sell recycled parts as tokunbo, therefore compromising on the quality. However, this is never the case when it comes to new parts.

Options - when a product is purchased new, you can go for the exact option (colour, type or size) and specification you want, but in the case of used spare parts options are usually limited because their availability depends on people and not the manufacture. These shortcoming will therefore force users to go for parts below their standards.

Economics - When considered on the long run, new products are often a better choice financially than tokunbo parts as they won’t require replacement if properly managed in a long time.
Its therefore advised to go for new products for the quality they offer. The Only Time Used products are advised is when getting parts for Vehicles that are no longer in production because companies no longer manufacture their parts.

Source: https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/03/advantages-of-new-motor-parts-over-used.html
Contact :AutofactorNg.com
Call: +234 (0) 908 1155 505

@charlesadeoye we don't have them in stock presently.

@charlesadeoye we stock several brands of battery product. solite, Hankook, Rocket, atlas, Diamond, arnold, visca power and many more.

Everyday car owners are faced with a selection choice when trying to replace a bad car part - the Used car part (otherwise known as Second-hand or Tokunbo) and the new Car part. A major factor that influences the choice is the cost, the harsh economic condition of the country often makes users go for the Tokunbo parts There is also the erroneous belief by most people especially road-side car technicians that Used Parts are of better quality than the new ones. There is a little truth in this, most tokunbo parts are Quality, but its only because they have been imported from countries where quality is not compromised. This however doesn’t mean that they are better than new products. The comparison is only valid when the new product purchased isn't a genuine one. Although the there is a price difference between both parts, its only right to go for a trusted new part for the following reasons

Longevity – regardless of the quality of a used auto part, there is no way they will last as long as a genuine new one if properly managed. For example, a part that should normally last 10 years may have been used for 8 years before being sold off as "Tokunbo" at a cheaper price. This definitely will influence how long you will use it, as 8 years have been taken off its stipulated period it should last.

Warranty – Some Tokunbo retailers tend to offer warranties on their products, but it's never as much as much as those offered on new parts. Like the six-month warranty being offered on Newly purchased batteries from Autofactor, there is no way you'll find that much warranty on a Tokunbo battery because the chances of it lasting month is not guaranteed.
Depreciation – Eventually one may want to sell a car part that has been used. A part that had been purchased newly will generate more returns than the second-hand ones which reduced drastically as its being sold to its third user. The reason for this is because of the declining quality as the age increases. Auto parts are not made to last forever. they will eventually wear out. For example, the tyre expiry date we talked about in a previous blogpost.

Recycling – Some tokunbo sellers in a bid to make extra profit sell recycled parts as tokunbo, therefore compromising on the quality. However, this is never the case when it comes to new parts.

Options - when a product is purchased new, you can go for the exact option (colour, type or size) and specification you want, but in the case of used spare parts options are usually limited because their availability depends on people and not the manufacture. These shortcoming will therefore force users to go for parts below their standards.

Economics - When considered on the long run, new products are often a better choice financially than tokunbo parts as they won’t require replacement if properly managed in a long time.
Its therefore advised to go for new products for the quality they offer. The Only Time Used products are advised is when getting parts for Vehicles that are no longer in production because companies no longer manufacture their parts.

Source: https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/03/advantages-of-new-motor-parts-over-used.html
Contact :AutofactorNg.com
Call: +234 (0) 908 1155 505

Without radiator coolant, an auto engine would overheat extremely fast, leading to mechanical breakdown and engine failure. While oil may be the lifeblood of a car’s engine, coolant is like the water that helps to dispel heat. In fact, coolant mixes with water in a car’s radiator. It prevents the water from freezing and boiling given the extreme temperatures it is exposed to. Considering the amount of heat energy generated by burning gasoline within an internal combustion engine is between 19 and 20,000 BTUs per gallon, the engine’s cooling system is greatly relied upon to ensure the car functions properly.

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What Coolant Does


Coolant consists of a mixture of water and antifreeze that is stored in the car’s radiator. A good rule of thumb is to mix them 50/50, but more antifreeze in the mix increases the boiling point and decreases the freezing point. Generally speaking, a 50/50 mix is more than adequate for the kinds of conditions the engine faces. As the engine burns the gasoline, nearly 1/3 of the energy produced ends up as waste, either in the form of excess heat energy or exhaust. The heat energy that remains in the engine cannot simply be allowed to sit and fester. That is how overheating and eventual breakdown happen.

The coolant mixture is moved through the engine by means of a water pump. The water circulates through the engine, absorbs the excess heat energy and carries it to the radiator. There, through a process of heat exchange, the heat is dispelled, the water is cooled and sent circulating through the system again. The radiator is positioned to receive an inflow of outside air constantly to help cool the water.


Why Coolant is Important


Without coolant, the heat produced through constant internal combustion would destroy the engine very quickly. Water alone is not entirely adequate to keep the system cool, for the high temperatures inside the motor would eventually boil it off. In time, the water in the system would evaporate entirely. Likewise, in very cold weather, the water would freeze when the car sat idle, rendering the cooling system useless. For these reasons, the mix of antifreeze is vital to the proper working of the coolant system.

The coolant in a car’s cooling system needs to be inspected every so often to protect against corrosion. While the main component of antifreeze, ethylene glycol does not expire, any additives to inhibit corrosion eventually do. This makes it a requirement that you change the coolant every 30,000 miles. The radiator, too, must be in good working order. If rust builds up, the heat exchanger may fail to function properly and lead to problems down the road.

An engine’s cooling system is another area that must be looked after from time to time to make sure that the car does not overheat. By some estimates, the majority of mechanical breakdowns are caused by overheating engines. Ensuring that the cooling system components such as the radiator, water pump and thermostat work well and by maintaining the level of the coolant in the system, you can largely avoid such problems.

A blown head gasket can be very bad news. It’s either going to cost you money to have it fixed, or you’re going to have to do the job yourself. Either method will cost money, but doing it yourself can save you the cost of labor. Before you can repair it, however, you need to know the cause. This can be a problem since there can be a number of causes for a blown head gasket.

1. Overheating

The biggest cause of a blown head gasket is overheating. Usually, the head gasket armor around the cylinders can become crushed, and if this happens, the seal is lost and your engine will lose compression, leak coolant, and the gasket will erode.

Before replacing the gasket
, it’s vital that you find the cause of the overheating. It could be due to coolant leaks in the engine, the hoses, the radiator, or the water pump. These have to be found and repaired. It could also be due to the cooling fan not working or the radiator being clogged. Again, these need to be fixed or, in all likelihood, you’ll end up with another blown head gasket again shortly after your repair.





2. Installation Error

If you’ve had a blown head gasket replaced on your car and solved the problem of why it blew in the first place, the likely cause this time will be installation error. This is not particularly uncommon.

The head bolts need to be tightened in the correct sequence and set to the proper torque. They also need to have clean threads that aren’t stretched or damage. The cylinder head surfaces and engine block also need to be smooth, clean, and flat.

Any one of these factors, or a combination of them, can cause a blown head gasket. Remember, too, that sealer should only be used on non-coated, one-piece steel head gaskets. However, establishing this as the cause can be difficult. You’ll need to eliminate other possibilities first.

3. Hot Spots

There are engines that are prone to hot spots between the center cylinders in the cylinder head, although aftermarket head gaskets for these engines are reinforced to lessen the possibility of a blown head gasket.

However, if you have an older car, the hot spot could be the cause especially if your old head gasket has been replaced by one that’s not reinforced.



4. Pre-ignition Problems

Pre-ignition problems can cause this problem as well, especially if you only use your car for city driving. With pre-ignition, there’s a hot spot in the chamber which causes ignition of the fuel before the spark plug has a chance to fire. It could also be due to detonation. This happens if the spark timing is too advanced or the fuel mixture isn’t rich enough. It causes carbon deposits to build up and ultimately erodes and blows the part.

5. Bad Head Gasket

In some cases, the original head gasket for the car can just be very badly designed and the poor design can cause a blown head gasket over a period of time. A little research will establish if your vehicle is prone to poor designs. Once you replace it with a good head gasket, you should not experience any further failures.

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The pivot between the wheels and the vehicle Suspension, the ball joint is a very important part of an auto-mobile. They transfer the weight of the vehicle from the suspension to the wheel hub so that the wheel can then transfer that weight to the ground, and there is need for them to be flexible as they influence the car steering too. Ball joints often range from 2-4 depending on the type of suspension being used by the car.
They are designed to last a long time, but they will eventually wear to the point where they need replacement. Although many think Faulty ball joints are only affect Honda cars, this is wrong.

The following factors may also influence how long the Ball joints last,
- How the vehicle is driven.
- The quality of the roads it is driven on.
- How much turning is part of the normal pattern of driving.


Ball joints can last from 70,000 miles to 150,000 miles before needing replacement. Regular lubrication of the chassis, to include the ball joints, will help prevent premature wear, but cannot delay it forever.

Signs of a bad ball Joint

Sounds
For most people, the first indication that they have a problem with their ball joints is a faint, intermittent banging sound that seems to be coming from a corner of the vehicle. This sound is usually more pronounced when going over a bump or dip, or when going around a corner. This is not the same as the clicking sound made by worn CV joints (constant-velocity joints) when going around corners. This sound is more like somebody hitting a piece of the metal structure with a hammer.
As time goes on, this sound becomes louder and more frequent. It is especially pronounced when the weight of the vehicle is transferred off and onto the wheel, such as when driving through a pothole. Left long enough, the sound of a worn ball joint can become a loud, creaking bang, similar to the sound of the bottom of the car hitting the ground.

Steering
Worn ball joints can affect the vehicle’s steering. This can manifest in a number of different ways, usually making the steering sloppy or stiff. Which effect it has is largely dependent upon how the ball joint is wearing. If a vibration can be felt in the steering wheel when the vehicle is being driven down a straight, level highway, it could indicate a worn ball joint.

Tire Wear
Another easy way to recognize worn ball joints is uneven wear in the tires. If the outer or inner edges of the front tires are wearing faster than the rest of the tire tread, then there is a good chance that the ball joint is worn. If both edges are wearing faster than the middle, the problem is not the ball joint, but rather, under inflation of the tire.
How to check a bad Ball Joint.
Cupping on the inner edge of the tread is also an indication of bad ball joints. This cupping is not usually visible, but should be discernible by touch if a hand is run over the tread of the tire.



How to Prolong life of ball Joint.
Lubricate the Chassis regularly - The most important thing to do to ensure long-lasting ball joints is to lubricate the vehicle's chassis. Grease should be added to the ball joints and all other Suspension and steering parts that have grease fittings, using a grease gun, every time the vehicle's oil is changed. Enough grease needs to be added so that it forces some of the old grease out of the ball joint's rubber boot. This excess grease can be left in place, although wiping it off helps prevent contamination of the new grease.

Check the car Rubber boots - When the grease is added, check the rubber boots for signs of tearing. A torn boot will not protect the grease from dirt, water, or falling out. Torn boots should be replaced. Any time that suspension members are taken apart, new boots should be installed, as the act of breaking loose the ball joint will tear the boot.

Remove Dirt - If the vehicle is driven off-road, in mud, or in sand, the under-body should be washed to remove dirt and sand. This will reduce the risk of that dirt and sand entering into ball joints and other greased fittings in the suspension and shortening their life.

The aforementioned tips can only help prolong the life of the ball joint, but on the long run it will eventually fail and need replacement so there is the need to check it regularly with more experienced technicians which can be done http://autofactorng.com/ or by calling us on +234(0)908-1155-505

Source: https://autofactorng..com.ng/2016/03/the-pivot-betweenthe-wheels-and-vehicle.html

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