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This can't work as shown and I'll explain why. Sometimes it is easier to connect a direct drive coupling from an electric motor to the generator with an additional pulley in the middle that could connect to a 12 volt engine starter, modified to work by belt drive. The starter is used to get the motor running and up to speed for only the beginning during it's toughest moment of startup, which could be debilitating for too small of motors, which we have to use to get the additional energy out as needed to power devices with more energy than we use. Once the system is up to speed, the starter is then disengaged and the system continues on to run until it charges the battery enough to replace the energy used to start the system with the starter. The starter only supports the motor by giving the motor the additional power necessary to start spinning the electric motor so it doesn't burn out. The image above shows the same thing as system built to use a 12 v battery, a 12 v motor and a 12v alternator with a voltage regulator and high wattage rheostat that will handle the inrush current (which makes it very difficult to find a rheostat that is strong enough to handle the power used from the motor at any level it may run.) and expensive to buy since rheostats are expensive for high wattage units. The output can't provide the same voltage as needed for the input if the motors are setup the way they need to be, and this is because we need to use a high voltage (120vac or 240 vac motor to drive a dc generator, or vice versa, dc permanent magnet motor running an ac permanent magnet generator. I find that the easiest way to make the generator output more energy than in is by using a permanent magnet generator with an additional coil wound around the rotor at a 90 degree angle to it's rotation, and to supplement the generator, I try to build a commutator that is used to control the sequence of the coils, for instance, if we look at Joseph Newman's Big Eureka, he uses a commutator not only to connect the motor's leads, but also to short the coils, open them and trigger the motor's stages from batteries to the components of the motor. I like to build a circuit that uses solid state components that will use magnets to trigger magnetic reed switches to control the shorting circuit at a specific timing, which will eliminate the Lenz effect between the magnetic rotor of the generator and the stator. This will produce a high amperage spike of energy drawn in from the Aether which will literally induce Earth's energy or Cosmic energy which will be released instead of the back emf created by energizing and de-energizing the coils, which is merely a lossy high voltage spike that will do nothing but make you think you have more output, when in reality it will only damage the battery. The circuit I build is a radiant energy harvesting circuit that uses inductor coils energization and de-energization by sequence which will take a small amount of energy and process it to allow a larger amount of energy to be released. When this happens driving a motor as a prime mover, the motor performs much stronger than before and will output more mechanical energy. The circuit could also be used from the output of the generator with a small load on it, ie, the prime mover motor, which will enable the self run characteristic. Once the motor is running fast enough, we switch off the battery input and connect the output to the input simultaneously to self run the system. Second, the motor for the input will need to be a 120v induction motor. If the motor doesn't have at least 3/4 hp, the motor won't turn the generator. I have built these generation systems and I have made these generators operate in overunity by using a different type of motor than the generator. By this I mean either the generator could be outputting 120vac and the input motor or prime mover could be a dc motor. The opposite in electric motor vs generator can make this function and here is how it is done.

The motor will struggle to get the generator spinning by itself and possibly burn out the motor used if it didn't have any assistance by a starter, because a much smaller than necessary motor can be used to spin the generator. Electric motors are huge hogs during startup, especially at 120 volts, and if you use a 3 phase motor capping the 3rd phase while it is single phasing, the motor will need all it can get to spin it up to speed, making the starter motor completely necessary to use. Starters are very powerful and will help the system start without too much struggle, energy, or additional time. It's best to add a very large and heavy flywheel to assist it's energy output as Chas Campbell's system uses. He finds that if he leaves the belt rather loose, the system jumps ahead from the flywheel because of the belt's jerking motion and it creates an additional output of energy that wasn't there before.

Lastly, I highly recommend adding a small 15 amp battery charger to the output of the generator to recharge the battery unless the generator used has an additional 12 v output for this reason. You should be able to receive at the very least an output of 125% of the input. I used a 3/4 hp motor that used approximately 500 watts to run the generator. The generator used was a 3000 watt unit and it did spin , however, it wasn't completely up to speed but allowed me to run the 500 watts for the motor, an additional 400 watts to the starter motor and it gave me an output that ran (10) 200 watt bulbs at about 90% of their normal brightness. The actual load wattage was 1845 watts output (with a battery charger functioning to charge batteries and run 100 watt incandescent bulbs at the same time, and I did NOT try to add anymore load due to the speed it was running at (2975 rpms instead of 3600 rpms), but, it was enough to continue running without the use of the battery and the starter after startup/speedup. I had to change the belt ratio for my device, but, the unit had more losses than it was worth by doing so, then I ripped it apart and connected the shafts with a lovejoy coupling and added a pulley for the starter which locked over he shaft with a set screw.

Good luck with your build, it is well worth the time because you'll be able to gain energy by shorting a coil to gain the energy output needed to run the system and draw additional power. My generator was enough power to run all of my home lighting, indoor and outdoor, and, I used all 9 watt led bulbs indoors on 2 circuits ,then I ran the outdoor spotlights (8 bulbs, CREE 19 watt flood lamps simultaneously plus an additional (28) 9 watt warm white Cree led bulbs, (4) 24 watt flourescent tubes and an old 22 watt beer neon that I have over my bar downstairs simultaneously, a total of 152 + 96 + 252 + 22= 522 watts plus the motor which is approximately 500 watts, and the starter motor which is an additional 400, equalling 1422 watts. When I started the system, the load could be on if it is as small as what I have added up here, but, the lamps will be dim until the starter motor is disengaged. So, my build is still running all of my lights in the home and I am able to leave the system on for 24 hours without any heatup of the motor or generator. I have left the system on for 1 week but I am more worried that I can burn something up so I shut it down and restart it when we are not home, sleeping, etc. I am going to build a couple more of these systems with larger motors and generators but I have to save more $ to do so. I'd like to build them in a fireproof outdoor location to eliminate any fire hazards or worries of fires when away or sleeping.

I'd like to try and see if they operate using Arc Fault Breakers without tripping but with my luck they will open as soon as a load is added. Please let me know if any of you experience the success I have.. If you need assistance, please let me know. The circuit I have experimented with that allows the draw of Radiant energy is called the super radiant charger v 2.0 which is shown on Google Images. GOOD LUCK TO YOU ALL!!