Peterlove11: 78w is better.....I remembered when I newly joined this group. 5kvas commonly consume over 100w on idle. Technology has come a long way. Imagine 10kvas now consuming less than 100w, isn't that wonderful. With increase in solar/renewable energy adoption and innovation in battery/inverter technology, in the nearest future nobody will be talking about idle load consumption anymore because it will become inconsequential
Boss, 78w idle power consumption for 5kva of transformer based is better. Hybrid is not better at all. Mine consumed 72w and I'm planning to change it.... 5kva 48v hybrid inverter should consume 50w max on idle mode.
loluskysat: Did you try it? My 1000W Inverter powers one plate of my double plate 2000W electric cooker.
Sorry for asking Boss, do you your 1000w inverter power your electric cooker of 2000w? Please, for how long? If actually it's true, then you must be a risk taker and I must give you kudos. On a serious note, it's very bad to push systems to the upper limit. It gives room for excessive heat and possible damage. Giving allowances create more room for the cooling system......
Jefferyzz: Are U connecting d panels in series or parallel. If it's series, Ur only concern should b d length of d cable cause of voltage loss.
Series the 2 pv is not bad with the 4mm cable, especially with the inverter Voc of 450vdc and working voltage range of 50-430v. As you rightly said, his major concern should be distance (voltage loss) between the pv and the inverter. I guess it's a 12v system
Dageek: Hello great people, I have been following this thread for a while, took my time to read through existing pages and was able to extract some information, but I’m really locked in between choosing battery.
Based on my power requirements, I would need at least 10kwh battery, this means the pylontech battery of that capacity will cost 4 million plus while felicity 15kwh (13kwh real capacity) will cost more less
This is not my first solar system, I have a 3.5kva 24v system with 2 flooded batteries and 8 x 300w Siemens panels, my plan is to upgrade to a bigger system using Deye 6kw from odyssey, 12 x 555w jinko panels from Fouani , Felicity battery from Naira lander here or Pylontech from Fouani
I would like to seek advise from people who have already used or installed either the Pylontech or felicity of that capacity, which one to choose considering durability, performance and ease of use.
Furthermore, I don’t want to use custom coupled battery because most of these batteries don’t offer communication port which is essential for the system I’m trying to build
For the choice of felicity battery and Pylontech, I will suggest you go for Pylontech if you have the money. More warranty period...... Most people prefer felicity and other products because using 4m for example to purchase 10kwh of Pylontech, the same 4m will give them 15-20kwh of felicity battery or other products.
Dageek: Hello great people, I have been following this thread for a while, took my time to read through existing pages and was able to extract some information, but I’m really locked in between choosing battery.
Based on my power requirements, I would need at least 10kwh battery, this means the pylontech battery of that capacity will cost 4 million plus while felicity 15kwh (13kwh real capacity) will cost more less
This is not my first solar system, I have a 3.5kva 24v system with 2 flooded batteries and 8 x 300w Siemens panels, my plan is to upgrade to a bigger system using Deye 6kw from odyssey, 12 x 555w jinko panels from Fouani , Felicity battery from Naira lander here or Pylontech from Fouani
I would like to seek advise from people who have already used or installed either the Pylontech or felicity of that capacity, which one to choose considering durability, performance and ease of use.
Furthermore, I don’t want to use custom coupled battery because most of these batteries don’t offer communication port which is essential for the system I’m trying to build
I disagree with your last statement. In the picture is a 48v 304ah batched and matched grade A cells we coupled with the communication port and delivered to the owner in Ondo State. Other ones in the picture are solar generators.
skywalker95: Good evening. Please, I want to decide between transformer based and hybrid inverter. My installer is saying I should use hybrid because it allows float charge and transformer based does not allow float charge even with an external charge controller. The orientation I have is that transformer based inverter is better than hybrid inverter for tubular batteries. I need advise on the right type of inverter to choose.
I will like to learn from your installer how the float charge of the hybrid is better than the transformer based. I will advise you change that installer. Chosing between transformer based inverter and non transformer based is a choice. The two will give you the best irrespective of your battery type. Just make sure you purchase the one with a flexible charging features.
mangolpupa: My people, I am looking for tokunbo uninterrupted power systems (UPS) system with pure sine wave output. Is there a used tokunbo market for it in lagos? If yes, does anyone have a sure plug.
I just pray you will see a honest seller otherwise sorry may be your second name. For plan B, I will advise you state your loads, adjust your budget and go for a new system with reliability.
bigrovar: I have very little context so pardon me. I am responding to this purely on the face of the comment. I have been a solar user now for over 8 years. My first system was a 1.2kw (inverter) paired with a 480w solar and 2 Tubular batteries. That system paired with the grid was able to power basic house loads including a 130L chest freezer. The freezer ran for 4 hours a day.
I later upgraded the inverter to 2.4kw (Axpert inverter) and pared it with 1.8kw solar (and same Tubular battery as before) and ran the house completely off-grid from this setup for over 2 years (no NEPA setup)
In all I ran a 24v system from 2016 - 2022 and had most of my basic loads like fridge, freezer, occasional microwave, occasional ironing etc.
Of cause I did not run all the powerful loads all at ones but my point is, design design design. System design is 80% of the work on solar.
Key is performing a proper energy audit. Designing your system around the result of your energy audit. I used 2 tubular batteries, 2.4kw inverter and 1.8kw solar panels to power a 2 bedroom apartment completely off-grid and I lived quite comfortably (as comfortable as you can live without AC LOL)
Even now with a much upgraded system, you can check my daily usage averages at about 1.5kw (when I have 1 AC a freezer, fridge, fan, lots of computers - running in my home lab including a 64 Terabyte NAS with 64g ram and 8 core AMD Ryzen) all of this is running on less than 2kw and when AC is off house load drops to less than 1kw. My VRM numbers is there for anyone to see https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/453590/share/df9180a7
People don't use as much power as they think. It is fine and very possible to use a lean prudent, low power system you just have to have the whole system well designed from load to generation to storage.
WARNING!!! Selina Li of Shenzhen Deriy New Energy Technology, I'm giving you between today and and Friday this week to refund my shipping fees. If I do not receive my money on or before Friday this week, I will drop a negative review in your Alibaba page. I will also expose your dubious lifestyle to all the solar forums. I bought cells from you. You told me you have an agent that ship your cells to Nigeria. I paid for the shipping fees you asked me to pay. When the cells finally arrived Nigeria, you refused to send the money to the shipper on time. To avoid further delay, I had to pay the shipper and collect my goods. You later told me to send the payment receipt to you so that you can make a refund and I did. For over a year now, you have been turning me upsidedown. I've saved all our private chats and I will forward them all.......
preyeamaorutobi: Thank you sir for your response. I was told I need a 24V inverter to be able to run my fridge that was why I was thinking of upgrading the inverter to 2.5kva. I don't know if I'm in the right track but if getting just a another battery will solve the problem then I will be very happy.
That person that told you that you need a 24v inverter to be able to power your fridge or freezer NA QUACK. I will suggest you stop listening to his misleading advice.
24v 160ah 4kwh lithium battery coupled with 100A 1A balance current Jk bms #800,000 24v 130ah 3.3kwh lithium battery coupled with 100A 1A balance current Jk bms #700,000 130ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #63,000 each 105ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #57,000 each 105ah batched and matched grade A Eve cells @ #62,000 each with the manufacturer test reports and 5 years warranty. Jk smart bms 16-21S 150A 2A balance current @ #156,500 Jk smart bms 4-8S 100A 1A balance current @ #75,000 Jbd Smart bms 16S 200A @ #110,000 150A battery terminal connectors @ #10,000 a pair 100A battery terminal connectors feed through @ #8,000 a pair M8 battery terminal connectors @ #4,000 a pair M6 battery terminal connectors @ #2,000 a pair Pure copper cable lugs @ #1,100 each 120A DC breaker @ #5,000 each.[/quote]
bleexInc: Hello House; kindly assist. I have an inverter setup with 2 Amaron quanta 200AH battery and 1.5kva luminous inverter that I have been using for about 18month now. I use nepa light to charge it. It use to have backup light of about 6 - 10hours when I started using it. My major load is my 65inches TV and 3fans with bulbs. Now, the setup get fully charge in less than 2hours and get drained in less than 2hours. What could be the problem.
Is the quanta battery a tubular type or normal dry cell?
Peterlove11: I even prefer your charging range.....but does it get to 100% SOC with this ? For now I will pick liPO over lead . Lead can easily go astray if you ain't meticulous in managing it. At least someone commented on that forum of how he has been using Lithium for the past 6years with no noticeable loss in capacity, which is impressive
It does. That's the range I'm using and most people here used it too.
Peterlove11: This is an interesting read if any one is into lithium Phosphate or considering Lithium batteries. What i learnt after carefully reading through the post... 1) Lithium cells don't like extremes of temperature. We must Put them in a cooled environment, they perform within 15c to 40c of temperature but best around 25c 2) They don't like extreme rapid charging either. The charging must be within the recommended C rate. Most times it's usually 0.2C 3) Recommended Bulk voltage is around 56.8v but most people on the forum advised 55.2v which I believe is preferable for longevity Lithium Phosphate is a promising battery chemistry but it's not infallible and I hope our sellers are willing to uphold warranty when issues like this comes up
This made me start thinking of Lithium titanate, does anyone here has any experience with Lithium titanate?. Does it address any of the above issues as regards temperature and C rate charging and discharging
Lithium titanate? I doubt if you would see any new product without any form of challenge. Even the MB30 and MB31 Eve released has their various challenges. Lithium ion phosphate has a working voltage range of 3.000v-3.400v. 54.4v bulk charging and 53.6v float charging has always been my charging range.
abuzz33: If you want to know the difference between grade A and grade B cells, cycle them over several years and then check for capacity. Don't go on what is stated by a manufacturer. Lead acid is known technology. Lifepo4 is new technology with lots of unknowns.
One of the members here discovered 20% capacity loss of his supposedly grade A eve cells after just two years of usage or less than 800 cycles:
Again I take the 6,000 cycle promise with a grain of salt and look at the warranties given which are often 5-10 years or max 4,000 cycles.
I'm always happy when I see people going extra mile to proof their points. It's very wrong to argue and make claims without proof. Thanks for this information. Going back to the OP, my observation is still what I've been saying. It's very WRONG to entirely depends on what sellers are telling you including myself. Do a thorough research/investigation before you put in your hard earned cash into it. 1. He said that batched and matched grade A Lf280K cells were sold to him in March 2022. Did he forward the manufacturer test reports to EV for verification?. The answer is No. 2. Did he physically examine the cells?. He didn't say it. 3. After the top balancing and equalisation, did he observe the self discharge of the cells?. He didn't tell us. Though the temperature of his region is closer to ours and he occasionally charged and discharged at 0.27C with the temperature of 38°C (not even up to 0.5C), that's not enough reason for 20% degradation under 2 years of use. Though the charging and discharging with respect to temperature are some of the reasons for cells degradation/bulging but I'm very certain that in the case of the OP, he may have gotten low quality grade B cells without knowing. Just as you've rightly said, seeing a cell with 8000 cycle life, carrying out capacity test to see above the rated capacity does not really mean that the cell would give up to 4 years. Capacity can give you fake sense of quality. Self discharge is a BIGGER ISSUE. This is that when cells are resting.
abuzz33: Most lifepo4 batteries in the Nigerian market are not grade A and those that are are very expensive. Powmr has a history of fudging numbers and poor quality. I take their 6,000 cycles with a grain of salt.
As for lifepo4 it's a superior and more flexible technology for lots of applications. But basic stuff lead acid is perfectly ok.
I use both and this was the second set of luminous batteries I bought. The inverlast battery I used for 5 years and it was still as strong as ever. Luminous is a great rugged brand and testament to this is the fact that schneider bought them out.
I may say that we're always at liberty to make choices based on certain circumstances we find ourselves, including financial constraints. Some set of people have taste of high quality solar products and they know how and where to get them, but they don't have the required cash to get to it. They have no options than to go for what they can afford provided there's light at home to power basic appliances. Some other set of people have taste of high quality products and they have the money but they don't know how and where to get them. they don't even have time for little research. These set of people are easily deceived. IMO, it pays to do thorough investigation/research/consultations before putting heard earned cash into anything. Again, I doubt if there is any product/appliance in Nigerian market that doesn't have fake quality. I know some of my friends that also bought bought fake luminous batteries.....
Drgreatone: Thanks boss. Package received. 2 pieces of Felicity 5kva IVEM inverter available in Abj for quick sale. Reason for sale: Client is getting a bigger sized inverter Whatsapp 0703five7123eight8
isangjohnson: 24v 160ah 4kwh lithium battery coupled with 100A 1A balance current Jk bms #820,000 24v 130ah 3.3kwh lithium battery coupled with 100A 1A balance current Jk bms #720,000 130ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #65,000 each 100ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #50,000 each 105ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #57,000 each 105ah batched and matched grade A Eve cells @ #62,000 each with the manufacturer test reports and 5 years warranty. Jk smart bms 16-21S 150A 2A balance current @ #156,500 Jk smart bms 4-8S 100A 1A balance current @ #75,000 Jbd Smart bms 16S 200A @ #110,000 150A battery terminal connectors @ #10,000 a pair 100A battery terminal connectors feed through @ #8,000 a pair M8 battery terminal connectors @ #4,000 a pair M6 battery terminal connectors @ #2,000 a pair Pure copper cable lugs @ #1,100 each 120A DC breaker @ #5,000 each.
Peterlove11: Make it cheaper.....its not financially advisable in 2024 to buy used tubular batteries 2x 12 220ah (5280wh) for over 500k when you can get Lithium Phosphate 5kwh with more Discharge cycles for around 1m.
Boss, I can't stop laughing..... Maybe he will adjust the price when the buyer contact him.
@ TeckGeek777. Those that are well informed know what they want and no amount of online market strategies can change their minds. Whether a customer is buying grade A cells or grade B cells or brand new cells at whatever price, time will tell. Each time I remember a guy here called Casualobserver, who wrote detailed analysis about grades of cells and the cause of their premature dead with the back up videos, I knew there were a lot of well informed guys here.
JustCryptos: Good evening DIYers. Please bare with me, it's a long read.
I think it's time to bring this to the larger house maybe I'll be able to get tangible help.
I purchased my first lithium bank from the Jos guy (jemag) in December 2022. The capacity of the bank is 24v 110a. In August last year, I purchased another battery bank 24v 100a from @valto.
I already noticed that my first bank had a hard time running from night till morning. On most nights it does by 2am. Reason I opted to purchase a second bank.
My night time load is between 100 to 200w (two 60w standing fans). So at the very least, I expected the Jemag battery to last till morning.
The way my system is setup, I have 1.2kw and another 1.8kw on both sides of my roof. Each set of panels go to their individual CCs before going to the batteries.
I began noticing significant deterioration in March this year. The battery may be full but shuts down within 30 minutes after a 200w load is introduced.
Upon closer inspection, I noticed there was a bad cell inside. One of the cell drops from 3.2v to 2.4v within minutes, triggering the BMS to shut off.
When I contacted the Jos guy, he proposed sending the bank back to Jos from Port Harcourt, an unnecessary step if you ask me. I opted for DIY, opened the bank and saw that one cell was seriously swollen.
I notified him again but he was angry on why I opened the battery. He was particularly about sending the bank to Jos for them to compress but I refused. This guy barely responds to messages.
Mind you, he used Sinopoly cells to build the bank. I asked if he had a replacement and he said yes, I paid around 50,000 for the replacement in May 2024 only for him to call days later that the cell they found was swollen but in perfect condition.
With no alternative at hand, I asked him to send the so call battery. That was a mistake on my part. When it got to me, the rating was not only different (3.2v 200ah) but the battery was worst than the existing piece.
I decided never to contact him since he never checked back. I abandoned his battery since March.
Now to my question:What can I do to salvage my battery? Do I sell of as scrap? Are there buyers?
Sorry about that. Keep your battery Sir and let me look for that one cell as replacement in china.
Drgreatone: This isnt the complete price. U still av to get BMS, container/box, battery busbars, ?threaded rods and wood too. That's close to extra 70k upwards
Once you get the cells with the free bus bars and a bms (there are cheaper ones), then your battery pack is ready for use. Some of us do help our customers to top balance the cells before sending to them. Compression is optional. It's very necessary for those that are coupling cells for sale. 1. It makes the cells secure by being tight during transit. 2. It takes care of the normal expansion that occurs between low soc and high soc which Eve says is about 0.5mm per cell. For diy guys with a proper system design that are not pushing the cells anywhere near what an Ev system would, then they have nothing to worry about compression. Their concern is Calendar aging of the cells only.
24v 160ah 4kwh lithium battery coupled with 100A 1A balance current Jk bms #820,000 24v 130ah 3.3kwh lithium battery coupled with 100A 1A balance current Jk bms #720,000 130ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #65,000 each 100ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #50,000 each 105ah quality grade B Eve cells @ #57,000 each 105ah batched and matched grade A Eve cells @ #62,000 each with the manufacturer test reports and 5 years warranty. Jk smart bms 16-21S 150A 2A balance current @ #156,500 Jk smart bms 4-8S 100A 1A balance current @ #75,000 Jbd Smart bms 16S 200A @ #110,000 150A battery terminal connectors @ #10,000 a pair 100A battery terminal connectors feed through @ #8,000 a pair M8 battery terminal connectors @ #4,000 a pair M6 battery terminal connectors @ #2,000 a pair Pure copper cable lugs @ #1,100 each 120A DC breaker @ #5,000 each.
GoodBoi1: Interesting. What about the efficiency? Does it give close to 7.1kwh? That is what made me to just buy bluetti, because I will be sure of the capacity. I have a locally made power station but I don't even get half of the rated capacity.
Your power station may have been built with the second life cells, if not third. It's very unfortunate you didn't do a thorough investigation or much research on it before buying. Quality grade B cells will give you the rated capacity and some will exit the rated capacity. If you want to enjoy grade B cells, put an average load (0.25c-0.30c max) on it, otherwise be ready for another top balancing in the next 3 years or thereabouts, especially for those cells coupled with a passive balancer.