CjEmmar:


I don't have a thermostat neither do I use radiator coolant, my mechanic keeps telling me that I don't need a thermostat, I think I will get one and also use a coolant

I am not a mechanic but am sure thermostat benefits fuel economy. It makes your car engine get to optimal operating temperature quickly. For Honda engine I think optimal operating temperature is around 80 to 85'C. At that temperature, the engine is highly fuel efficient

CjEmmar:



From what you described, I guess my engine RPM is fine because after 10-15mins, the rpm stays within 600-800rpm

Lucky you

CjEmmar:


I don't have a thermostat neither do I use radiator coolant, my mechanic keeps telling me that I don't need a thermostat, I think I will get one and also use a coolant

I'll advice you pressure check your cooling system before returning to factory settings so you don't end up overheating your engine.

davessales039:


NO.

What you described above is a normal operation.
Infact, it should drop to 800 in fifteen minutes or less. (650 if AC is on)

Sorry, correction, this should be "650 when gear is in D and car is not in motion (brake pedal is depressed)".
Not "when AC is on".
Note -- AC being on shouldn't affect your RPM.

Conner44:


NO

It’s not normal. When you start the engine it should idle as high as 1.5k-1.8k rpm and gradually drop to between 750-800rpm when the vehicle is warmed up.

Yeah, true but warming up doesn't take 30-40 mins. It takes about 5 to 10 mins depending on ambient temp.

Conner44:

When you put your ac on it should dip to like 650-700rpm and immediately climb back up to the initial 750-800rpm and hold steady. Same with when you put the gear in D with your foot on the brakes.

Yeah, correct. AC doesn't keep the RPM low. (My bad. I guess I was dozing off when I typed that above).
However, NO, RPM stays at 650-700 when gear is in D and brake is depressed. At least, in my case.

Good afternoon guys.
Finally decided to scan my car today. I bought it on good friday being april 15th. It is an acura tsx 2008. I had a check engine light on and it worried me being a first time owner. I also noticed a slight high fuel consumption and My younger brother observed same too cause I left the car in his care while registering it and trying to get my driving license.
I actually bought an Xtool Ad10 scanner yesterday. Scanned it some mins ago. Got three error codes. I cleared the error codes and scanned again. Two codes remained.
So guys help me out

Hello house my Honda pilot rmp will increase to 3000 when in park and will not accelerate in motion after scanning it brought this out

vivalavida:
Good afternoon guys.
Finally decided to scan my car today. I bought it on good friday being april 15th. It is an acura tsx 2008. I had a check engine light on and it worried me being a first time owner. I also noticed a slight high fuel consumption and My younger brother observed same too cause I left the car in his care while registering it and trying to get my driving license.
I actually bought an Xtool Ad10 scanner yesterday. Scanned it some mins ago. Got three error codes. I cleared the error codes and scanned again. Two codes remained.
So guys help me out

Congratulations on your ride. Did you buy it as a Nigerian used or tokumbo?

For your first code you’d need to change your oxygen sensors.

For the second code I can hazard a guess that your thermostat had been deleted and your cooling fans are working directly with ignition/battery power in which case you’d have to revert your electricals for the fans back to factory specifications.

Both those codes will definitely affect your fuel management negatively so repair them to enjoy your vehicle.

oriste:
Hello house my Honda pilot rmp will increase to 3000 when in park and will not accelerate in motion after scanning it brought this out

What year of pilot is this? I’m suspecting your VCM but confirm your vehicle year first so I’d be sure.

Good morning house.. I always hear some sound coming from the front of my car.. The left tire side.. I was scared because of the general problem of Honda being ball joint but the mechanic said it's the linkage and low arm bushing so I changed those 2 but the sound still comes up even worse so I changed the ball joints too just on Thursday yet the issue still persist... I'm not comfortable with that sound I'm taking it back to the mechanic tomorrow please house what could be the issue?

Conner44:


Congratulations on your ride. Did you buy it as a Nigerian used or tokumbo?

For your first code you’d need to change your oxygen sensors.

For the second code I can hazard a guess that your thermostat had been deleted and your cooling fans are working directly with ignition/battery power in which case you’d have to revert your electricals for the fans back to factory specifications.

Both those codes will definitely affect your fuel management negatively so repair them to enjoy your vehicle.

Thanks bro

Conner44:


Go to your mechanic and tell them to service your gearbox big switch. If it doesn’t work then change it. I hope you used the recommended fluid during change or else you have bigger issues.

good noon air and everyone in the house,

My Honda gear use to blink the drive light instead of staying permanently, just yesterday the d3 light was blinking continuously as well and and I confused what's wrong with my car. It's a 2008/2009 Honda accord.

Is there a directory where all the Auto Gurus here are listed and their location. So that we are able to know who to call in cases where one needs a Automechanic... is there a thread to that effect or should we start one?

Name. Cars you work on. Location. Contact.

Hope there are not NL rules broken by doing this...

zuraking:
good noon air and everyone in the house,

My Honda gear use to blink the drive light instead of staying permanently, just yesterday the d3 light was blinking continuously as well and and I confused what's wrong with my car. It's a 2008/2009 Honda accord.

Do you notice any issues with the way the gear behaves while you drive?

Go and pull your transmission dipstick and check the level and color, also take a clear picture of the dipstick and post it here so we can see and know if the fluid is still good.

You need to scan your car so we will know the faults it’s displaying by blinking your D and D3 lights.

RedChair:
Good evening car enthusiasts, please I have an issue.

I notice a pool of oil under the car immediately I park after driving for a while. While driving it does not leak because it would have seen a trail of the leak. Soon as I stop driving, it immediately leaks out a pool of oil and stops leaking.

I will take the car to the mechanic tomorrow but will appreciate if anyone can share similar experience or the possible cause.

The confusing thing is the leak is not a steady leak. It only leaks immediately I park after driving.

The car is EOD

What type of engine is in your car?

How much oil you you top up with every week? Does your oil level on the dipstick drop after every time you drive the car?

Conner44:


Do you notice any issues with the way the gear behaves while you drive?

Go and pull your transmission dipstick and check the level and color, also take a clear picture of the dipstick and post it here so we can see and know if the fluid is still good.

You need to scan your car so we will know the faults it’s displaying by blinking your D and D3 lights.

Good evening, the gear do Jack when its about to accelerate and enter gear 2 or so. It takes time to select and I was told it's not gear problem cos it drives smoothly when I am on speed.

I wills show the dipstick tomorrow. Thanks for your response

zuraking:
Good evening, the gear do Jack when its about to accelerate and enter gear 2 or so. It takes time to select and I was told it's not gear problem cos it drives smoothly when I am on speed.

I wills show the dipstick tomorrow. Thanks for your response

Hmm it jerks and selects only from gear 1 - 2? If you accelerate and release your leg from the throttle does it still jerk when changing from the gear 1 - 2?

What of other gears? Does it also jerk when it’s reducing gears? Like going from gear 2 - 1?

What type of engine is in your car?

Don’t forget to take the picture of your transmission dipstick and show us here before you go for a scan.

RedChair:


It's 4 plugs. I serviced it a week ago 5litres oil was used. I haven't noticed any drop in oil though

But do you still see drops on the ground everyday after you drive during this past week that you serviced it?

If you still see drops of oil and you are sure your power steering or transmission isn’t leaking then you will have to take your vehicle to a competent mechanic to find your leak.

I once had a slow leak at my oil sump because one of the sump bolts broke in half and instead of me to bring down the engine to remove the broken bolt I just used an oil additive that sealed the leakage for me.

You might try my method but only after you have identified where the leakage is coming from.

Conner44:


Hmm it jerks and selects only from gear 1 - 2? If you accelerate and release your leg from the throttle does it still jerk when changing from the gear 1 - 2?

When I remove my leg from the throttle, it wont jerk hard, it will select to 2 normal but If i want to accelerate normal, it will jerk (taking long to enter 2)

What of other gears? Does it also jerk when it’s reducing gears? Like going from gear 2 - 1?

No it wont. It only jerks again if I want to increase speed.

What type of engine is in your car?

It has a civic engine, it was replaced since the V6 engine is expensive and it saves more fuel.

Don’t forget to take the picture of your transmission dipstick and show us here before you go for a scan.

Conner44:


Hmm it jerks and selects only from gear 1 - 2? If you accelerate and release your leg from the throttle does it still jerk when changing from the gear 1 - 2?

What of other gears? Does it also jerk when it’s reducing gears? Like going from gear 2 - 1?

What type of engine is in your car?

Don’t forget to take the picture of your transmission dipstick and show us here before you go for a scan.

Good morning house.. I always hear some sound coming from the front of my car.. The left tire side.. I was scared because of the general problem of Honda being ball joint but the mechanic said it's the linkage and low arm bushing so I changed those 2 but the sound still comes up even worse so I changed the ball joints too just on Thursday yet the issue still persist... I'm not comfortable with that sound I'm taking it back to the mechanic tomorrow please house what could be the issue?

tobisunday:

Good morning house.. I always hear some sound coming from the front of my car.. The left tire side.. I was scared because of the general problem of Honda being ball joint but the mechanic said it's the linkage and low arm bushing so I changed those 2 but the sound still comes up even worse so I changed the ball joints too just on Thursday yet the issue still persist... I'm not comfortable with that sound I'm taking it back to the mechanic tomorrow please house what could be the issue?

When last did you change your wheel bearings in the hub for your front legs? It might be worn out hence the noise you hear especially if it still makes the sound when you’re on a smooth road.

zuraking:

When I remove my leg from the throttle, it wont jerk hard, it will select to 2 normal but If i want to accelerate normal, it will jerk (taking long to enter 2)


No it wont. It only jerks again if I want to increase speed.

It has a civic engine, it was replaced since the V6 engine is expensive and it saves more fuel.

On a V6 EOD? My pipu

Kingdemu:
On a V6 DC? My pipu

My brother this one been weak me as I see am no be small but we moovee

zuraking:

When I remove my leg from the throttle, it wont jerk hard, it will select to 2 normal but If i want to accelerate normal, it will jerk (taking long to enter 2)


No it wont. It only jerks again if I want to increase speed.

It has a civic engine, it was replaced since the V6 engine is expensive and it saves more fuel.

Bro was your car originally a V6 before someone put in a civic engine? If it was originally a V6 do you still have the double exhausts? Is the civic engine they put in the type that has a I-vtec 2.0 displacement or is it the 1.6L/1.8L?

Can you take a picture of your engine bay and post it here for me to see? I need to confirm the exact type of engine you currently have in your bay because it may be connected to the issues you’re having with your gearbox. If you switched engines you must surely have also switched transmissions and brain box (ECU) too because a V6 transmission won’t work with a 4cyl engine at all. And even at that some K24/K20 engines use different types of transmissions too, all are not necessarily compatible because they bolt on properly.

Back to the issue of your jerky transmission it’s an easy fix if you’re ready to let a mechanic bring it down and do some cleaning for you. Refer to my post in the link below

https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/342#112199773

You are to clean the solenoids in the CIRCLED part of the picture below and also change your transmission fluid at the same time. You will need 9 quarts of fluid if you’re bringing down your gearbox from your engine or 4 quarts if you’re going to be doing the cleaning with the gearbox still in your engine bay.

The solenoids are SHIFT SOLENOID VALVES A,B,C,D & E.

Still try to get a comprehensive vehicle scan so we can pinpoint the exact solenoid you’d need to clean for your gearbox to be okay. Why a scan is necessary is because You might clean it and it won’t be okay because it’s damaged hence the need to change the affected solenoid out once and for all.

Kingdemu:
On a V6 EOD? My pipu

I have been using it since January last year though and I ain't gat any issue aside the gear error I am having recently. That car is using crosstour V6 engine and its expensive. Wetin I know?

Good morning. I drive a Honda accord 2007 v4. I am a first time car user. being Using the vehicle sparingly Just for work commute. last week while I was taking the vehicle out I noticed it was revving high with reduced acceleration and the D and d3 lights were blinking on its own. I packed and scanned the vehicle with a regular obd scanner and it brought up some codes. I restarted the vehicle and h gradually it stopped but the code had since remained. the d lights occasionally blinks.


I am based in Mushin(recently relocated to lagos) . I will appreciate any help as I am not sure how to go about fixing it and I don't have any mechanic either.

these are the codes it brought up

P0705
Raw code: 0705
ECU: 09
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Transmission range (TR) sensor, PRNDL input - circuit malfunction
Honda: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input)

============2==============
P0141
Raw code: 0141
ECU: 09
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction
Honda: Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction

============3==============
P2185
Raw code: 2185
ECU: 09
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 - circuit high

Nameflow:
Good morning. I drive a Honda accord 2007 v4. I am a first time car user. being Using the vehicle sparingly Just for work commute. last week while I was taking the vehicle out I noticed it was revving high with reduced acceleration and the D and d3 lights were blinking on its own. I packed and scanned the vehicle with a regular obd scanner and it brought up some codes. I restarted the vehicle and h gradually it stopped but the code had since remained. the d lights occasionally blinks.


I am based in Mushin(recently relocated to lagos) . I will appreciate any help as I am not sure how to go about fixing it and I don't have any mechanic either.

these are the codes it brought up

P0705
Raw code: 0705
ECU: 09
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Transmission range (TR) sensor, PRNDL input - circuit malfunction
Honda: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input)

============2==============
P0141
Raw code: 0141
ECU: 09
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction
Honda: Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction

============3==============
P2185
Raw code: 2185
ECU: 09
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 - circuit high

P0705 is the issue here
See link for more details

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/codes-p0705-and-p0706.384106/

Have you check your oil level?
Did you top the gear oil recently,? If yest what oil did you use?
Any work done on car recently?

Dozieson:


P0705 is the issue here
See link for more details

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/codes-p0705-and-p0706.384106/

Have you check your oil level?
Did you top the gear oil recently,? If yest what oil did you use?
Any work done on car recently?

oil level is fine. didn't top either gear oil. the i recently put gas onto the a/c. haven't used it in a year.

Nameflow:

oil level is fine. didn't top either gear oil. the i recently put gas onto the a/c. haven't used it in a year.

How is the gear oil colour? When last did you change it?

luvinhubby:
Check your power steering oil containers, it's often neglected by car owners & technicians. When dirty, it pushes dirt into the pump causing damage and failure.
More tips coming.

Good day Sir. I need the recommended engine oil & oil filter for my 2016 accord v6. If you can help procure and deliver. It's impossible getting here and I cannot rely on the technicians to supply genuine ones. My location is Maiduguri borno state. Thank you.
08029114448