₦airaland Forum

Dam5reey:
Let me introduce you to the cheapest 12.8V 100ah in the market..
Support the channel with a subscription


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjrJo8RRpq4

206k
Roughly 51.5k per cell

ajabani4allah:
What's the cost of the Sunlith battery?

750k..

Contact of seller +234-701-027-9437

dollarnaira:
206k
Roughly 51.5k per cell

You dey calculate sha...

Bms, Case, terminals carton nko?

Dam5reey1:
You dey calculate sha...

Bms, Case, terminals carton nko?

Ah na true oo.
2nd life or not it is cheap.
But still some guys will bent on Tubular 220ah. That 220ah dey burst their brains

Edrizz:
What is VOC of the 250watt panel?

37.2 (Canadian panel)

Edrizz:
When one of ur support teams was asked about the best way to protect sako inverters from lightning/thunder strike since it interferes with dish signal amidst other problem if connected to an earth rod, the support responded that lightning/thunder strike is a natural phenomenon n can't be prevented. I was just dumbfounded with his reply, like mehn, people dey this world oooo there are engineers n there are enginaira

He go lie for you?
.

Meanwhile if you have issues with Sako inverter or battery, you can take it to festac their head office. I think their timeline is 72hrs from when booked unless Na big problem Naim be 1week.

dollarnaira:
Ah na true oo.
2nd life or not it is cheap.
But still some guys will bent on Tubular 220ah. That 220ah dey burst their brains

Compared to.the price of the Powmr it is cheap but the Powmr uses Grade A cells which were scanned and brought out the info.And you can't blame folks who stick with their tubular.They don't want wahala: Top balancing,bottom balancing,BMS cut off,waking up battery. Let's be sincere ,the LFP wahala small small.

1pcs of 15kwh felicity lithium battery ready for delivery to PH, To order yours call/whatsapp me on 08168986461

If you are on a tight budget and need an inverter that can carry significant household appliances, then you should consider our Easun 3000w Pure sine wave inverter

Price: 100,000naira

Features:

- Truly pure sine wave. No humming sound from your devices

- Consumes little (around 7w) to power itself from your batteries, leaving you more juice to power your main load (appliances), hence more backup time from your batteries

- Can power significant household loads like refrigerators/deep freezers, microwave, blender, toasting machine, and occasional heavy loads (like pressing iron, 1hp pumping machine and inductive cooker, rated 1100w and lower). Just make sure your batteries can support the significant load consumption from these appliances

- Inverter can be easily repaired; we have a dedicated technician for its repairs and we stock the critical parts to ensure swift repairs. To further minimise downtime hours, we can swap out a faulty inverter for a working one immediately. Terms and Conditions apply

Follow our dedicated thread to read and watch videos of feedbacks and testimonies
https://www.nairaland.com/7833852/3000w-easun-pure-sine-wave


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3BCseUj3kw?si=Fa7kyufgS1IPm5b8

jasp12:
37.2 (Canadian panel)

It is utmost impossible to have 100% harvest from ur panels, max is always 70%. So going by that u can series 19pcs n discard d remaining 6.

Iinnov8:
If you are on a tight budget and need an inverter that can carry significant household appliances, then you should consider our Easun 3000w Pure sine wave inverter

Price: 100,000naira

Features:

- Truly pure sine wave. No humming sound from your devices

- Consumes little (around 7w) to power itself from your batteries, leaving you more juice to power your main load (appliances), hence more backup time from your batteries

- Can power significant household loads like refrigerators/deep freezers, microwave, blender, toasting machine, and occasional heavy loads (like pressing iron, 1hp pumping machine and inductive cooker, rated 1100w and lower). Just make sure your batteries can support the significant load consumption from these appliances

- Inverter can be easily repaired; we have a dedicated technician for its repairs and we stock the critical parts to ensure swift repairs. To further minimise downtime hours, we can swap out a faulty inverter for a working one immediately. Terms and Conditions apply

Follow our dedicated thread to read and watch videos of feedbacks and testimonies
https://www.nairaland.com/7833852/3000w-easun-pure-sine-wave


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3BCseUj3kw?si=Fa7kyufgS1IPm5b8

I can testify to the assertion that this inverter can power many appliances.
I have the 3000w which I currently use to pump my 0.75hp submersible pump .

omotoda:
Compared to.the price of the Powmr it is cheap but the Powmr uses Grade A cells which were scanned and brought out the info.And you can't blame folks who stick with their tubular.They don't want wahala: Top balancing,bottom balancing,BMS cut off,waking up battery. Let's be sincere ,the LFP wahala small small.

PowMr used grade A
Assuming Cworth used grade B

U see dat tubular, dont let us go there oo it is the best way to waste money sir.

Me oo I dont follow crowd. I will chose an active balancer over a hard wired bms over and over. But some ppu think that a system without bms is fire .

You either do 24 panels in series and toss 1 panel or you add 1 more panel and do 13S2P (13 Panels in Series in 2 Strings, Then Parallel the two Strings)

24 Panels will give you 6000W @ STC but your best shot is 13S2P which will give you 6500W PV @ STC.

NOTE: Your actual yield will depend factors like quality of the PVs and Installation Conditions.

jasp12:
@jonescosmos @dollarnaira @juror How will you connect 25 panels (250 watts, 24v) to 5kva Felicity hybrid inverters with 450voc?

jonescosmos:
You either do 24 panels in series and toss 1 panel or you add 1 more panel and do 13S2P (13 Panels in Series in 2 Strings, Then Parallel the two Strings)

24 Panels will give you 6000W @ STC but your best shot is 13S2P which will give you 6500W PV @ STC.

NOTE: Your actual yield will depend factors like quality of the PVs and Installation Conditions.

Thanks

dollarnaira:
PowMr used grade A
Assuming Cworth used grade B

U see dat tubular, dont let us go there oo it is the best way to waste money sir.

Me oo I dont follow crowd. I will chose an active balancer over a hard wired bms over and over. But some ppu think that a system without bms is fire .

What I use BMS is for Monitoring SOC, I am not a fan of BMS too, just using the ones I have to learn and experiment. I use the Junctek meter now, so BMS is redundant just in case......

Inverter is a BMS itself. But LFP can push too much Current so BMS is highly recommend once you go above 12V 100ah, Unless you are the BMS and always on standby.

Dam5reey1:
What I use BMS is for Monitoring SOC, I am not a fan of BMS too, just using the ones I have to learn and experiment. I use the Junctek meter now, so BMS is redundant just in case......

Inverter is a BMS itself. But LFP can push too much Current so BMS is highly recommend once you go above 12V 100ah, Unless you are the BMS and always on standby.

But how will one pull 100a on a 12v system deliberately? Why do we then purchase editable Inverters to curb lvd. Even as dumb as most Satchet inverters,they can never go beyond LVD.

I am not always comfortable when there is sth in between batteries. The inverter should take care of that. My opinion.

Dam5reey:
Let me introduce you to the cheapest 12.8V 100ah in the market..
Support the channel with a subscription


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjrJo8RRpq4

Could this be just a wrong pack out of others?

dollarnaira:
But how will one pull 100a on a 12v system deliberately? Why do we then purchase editable Inverters to curb lvd. Even as dumb as most Satchet inverters,they can never go beyond LVD.

I am not always comfortable when there is sth in between batteries. The inverter should take care of that. My opinion.

The LFP Battery has tendency to push even higher.
I play with LFP batteries.

You are an exception in this case, you are the BMS yourself, enjoy!

dollarnaira:
Could this be just a wrong pack out of others?

I paid for it as a regular customer.
I wonder why I always receive the wrong pack from sellers.

Dam5reey1:
The LFP Battery has tendency to push even higher.
I play with LFP batteries.

You are an exception in this case, you are the BMS yourself, enjoy!

Living bms

Dam5reey1:
I paid for it as a regular customer.
I wonder why I always receive the wrong pack from sellers.

Oops!

Using series for 19 panels at V.O.C of 37.2v with inverter VoC of 500v is not a good thing, it will damage the inverter. if you are to ask me i will do 13 panels in series and then introduce a charge controller for the remaining panels.

Edrizz:
It is utmost impossible to have 100% harvest from ur panels, max is always 70%. So going by that u can series 19pcs n discard d remaining 6.

Edrizz:
It is utmost impossible to have 100% harvest from ur panels, max is always 70%. So going by that u can series 19pcs n discard d remaining 6.

Well, that's just not true is it. I used to believe that till the day I hit 95%+ output.

jasp12:
37.2 (Canadian panel)

What's the max input current of the MPPT?

Na wa ooo, But you mentioned 250W, 24V Panels in your query.

jasp12:
37.2 (Canadian panel)

BigDickProblems:
It’s a PWM charge controller that shows the readings.
This is from this morning:
Panel Reading by 9:00am
Twin Tech 12.5V 1.0Amp = 13.75Watts
Africell 12.5V 1.0Amp =12.5Watts
Parallel Connection 2.6Amp 12.9V =33.54Watts

Panel Reading by 9:26am
Africell 13.0V 1.8Amp = 23.4Watts
Twin Tech 12.9V 1.5Amp = 19.35Watts
Parallel Connection 2.9Amp 13.2V = 38.28Watts

This is way too low for a 360Watts panel. What could be the issue here?

@BigDickProblems
Pls I need your help on how to solve my mppt new controller....I was using 200w africell panel with pwd controller...so I decided to get myself 100ah lithium battery with 30a mppt controller in other to protect my new battery and also to get more ampere....note I usually get 24v and 6amp from panel directly and 6amp from my pwd of course the excess voltage will be wasted. But since I installed this mppt control am getting 15v from panel and 2.6amp and a total wattage of 34watts from a panel of 200w .... I thought the mppt was not okay so I have to waste money on transport to return the mppt controller, I was given another one and I ask them to test it to confirm if the mppt is okay....they tested it and show me the result via video 56v and 20amp although I don't know how many panel they use for the testing....i installed the new mppt controller this morning and am still getting 15v and 2.6amp and a total wattage of 34watts from 200w same as the one I returned....I don't really understand what is going on cos my panel read 24 and 3amp....I expect the mppt to boost my ampere but is decreasing it...

Dam5reey:
Let me introduce you to the cheapest 12.8V 100ah in the market..
Support the channel with a subscription


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjrJo8RRpq4

Nice, but can we really say it is 100Ah?
When the battery voltage had to get so low to give that capacity.

jasp12:
@jonescosmos @dollarnaira @juror How will you connect 25 panels (250 watts, 24v) to 5kva Felicity hybrid inverters with 450voc?

With a 37.2V Voc and 25 units,

I would do either 11s2p or 8s3p depending on other limitations like Max input current of the inverter.

It could be possible to do 12s2p but I don't like extreme sports.

Ty207:
@BigDickProblems
Pls I need your help on how to solve my mppt new controller....I was using 200w africell panel with pwd controller...so I decided to get myself 100ah lithium battery with 30a mppt controller in other to protect my new battery and also to get more ampere....note I usually get 24v and 6amp from panel directly and 6amp from my pwd of course the excess voltage will be wasted. But since I installed this mppt control am getting 15v from panel and 2.6amp and a total wattage of 34watts from a panel of 200w .... I thought the mppt was not okay so I have to waste money on transport to return the mppt controller, I was given another one and I ask them to test it to confirm if the mppt is okay....they tested it and show me the result via video 56v and 20amp although I don't know how many panel they use for the testing....i installed the new mppt controller this morning and am still getting 15v and 2.6amp and a total wattage of 34watts from 200w same as the one I returned....I don't really understand what is going on cos my panel read 24 and 3amp....I expect the mppt to boost my ampere but is decreasing it...

I see you got the Cworth battery that Dam5real (here on Nairaland) or so did a load capacity test on, cos I watched it today; that’s a good one especially the way he made it easy to understand.

Firstly, I will advice you get at least 4 pieces of that panel. Yes because when you connect them in parallel (parallel means you want to increase the currents by adding more panels while you keep the voltages from the panels constant), you are getting a max of around 40Amps (going by the panel rating of 9.89Amp). 40amps is 0.4C of the 100Ah battery which is ok. But you can add one more to it to charge your battery faster. It also means that your charge controller should exceed 40amps (so get a 60amps, especially for room for upgrade).

Now, your Charge controller also needs some settings. Firstly, you need to select the Lithium battery type (some controller will give it a label of “Lib” or “3-5S” or “3-4S” (I use two controllers that is why I know). There is what is called charging voltage (and it can come in different names too but do well to read your manual well); this voltage should be at 14.6V or +or -0.2V for healthy charging of your lithium battery. This means that your battery will be charging at 40amps and 14.6V = 584Watts. And this will take your battery about 2hours 30minutes to fully charge under ideal condition. But I’ll suggest you make it 5 panels if you can.

Now about your single panel giving you this issue, well one thing you need to note is that the weather today (from my end) is mostly cloudy. And I can’t judge my panels based on it, and it’s been this way for the past few days; looking as though the rain wants to fall, but it never did.

Secondly, get a multimeter, maybe a DT830L model, which is a 10amps Dc current meter, it’s around 9k or so when I bought it. Connect it to the terminals of your panel and confirm the current coming from your panel. This way, you are certain if your panel is good or not. If your panel is reading closely to the rated capacity just like that in your controller, then it is the weather. And you can only hope for a sunny day.

I know this is a long read, but I’ve been in your shoes, and I try to make sure you get all the answers you need from this reply.

My solar panel, just like your yours, in those days will be giving me a max of 4amps. I washed my panel during one of the sunny days in January, and I was getting a whooping 17.1Amps (i.e 5.7Amps per panel) from 3 panels of the same Africell 200watts , I attached the picture below. Some days I could get close to 18amps as well.

Be that as it may, I am not a professional in Solar and I don’t have much experience like some people here. I’m more of a DIY guy, who loves experiments.
All the best bro. If you still have questions, you can still tag me. And please pardon my typos.

BigDickProblems:
I see you got the Cworth battery that Dam5real (here on Nairaland) or so did a load capacity test on, cos I watched it today; that’s a good one especially the way he made it easy to understand.

Firstly, I will advice you get at least 4 pieces of that panel. Yes because when you connect them in parallel (parallel means you want to increase the currents by adding more panels while you keep the voltages from the panels constant), you are getting a max of around 40Amps (going by the panel rating of 9.89Amp). 40amps is 0.4C of the 100Ah battery which is ok. But you can add one more to it to charge your battery faster. It also means that your charge controller should exceed 40amps (so get a 60amps, especially for room for upgrade).

Now, your Charge controller also needs some settings. Firstly, you need to select the Lithium battery type (some controller will give it a label of “Lib” or “3-5S” or “3-4S” (I use two controllers that is why I know). There is what is called charging voltage (and it can come in different names too but do well to read your manual well); this voltage should be at 14.6V or +or -0.2V for healthy charging of your lithium battery. This means that your battery will be charging at 40amps and 14.6V = 584Watts. And this will take your battery about 2hours 30minutes to fully charge under ideal condition. But I’ll suggest you make it 5 panels if you can.

Now about your single panel giving you this issue, well one thing you need to note is that the weather today (from my end) is mostly cloudy. And I can’t judge my panels based on it, and it’s been this way for the past few days; looking as though the rain wants to fall, but it never did.

Secondly, get a multimeter, maybe a DT830L model, which is a 10amps Dc current meter, it’s around 9k or so when I bought it. Connect it to the terminals of your panel and confirm the current coming from your panel. This way, you are certain if your panel is good or not. If your panel is reading closely to the rated capacity just like that in your controller, then it is the weather. And you can only hope for a sunny day.

I know this is a long read, but I’ve been in your shoes, and I try to make sure you get all the answers you need from this reply.

My solar panel, just like your yours, in those days will be giving me a max of 4amps. I washed my panel during one of the sunny days in January, and I was getting a whooping 17.1Amps (i.e 5.7Amps per panel) from 3 panels of the same Africell 200watts , I attached the picture below. Some days I could get close to 18amps as well.

Be that as it may, I am not a professional in Solar and I don’t have much experience like some people here. I’m more of a DIY guy, who loves experiments.
All the best bro. If you still have questions, you can still tag me. And please pardon my typos.

You have not really answered my question
Firstly I have a multimeter and I was the one that advised you to get one in arena
Secondly I can't get 60a mppt cos I already have 30a which is okay for 100ah battery...
Thirdly I can't get 4panel on 30a controller... If I can get 20amp from the mppt am okay.
I just want to know how you where able to solve your ampere problem...like I said am using pwd and am getting 24v 6amp from my panel....but this new mppt is giving me 15v and 2.6amp which is way below the pwd controller.. I just want to know what you did to solved the ampere problem cos I know you are getting 2amp before and you where able to solve the problem.... Note my multimeter read 21v 3.4a this morning despite bad weather and at the same time my mppt read 15v and 2.6 amp...that is my concern why low ampere from mppt instead of getting more ampere from it.... I hope you understand me now

Lastly pls what is your ampere reading on mppt and pwd

Ty207:
You have not really answered my question
Firstly I have a multimeter and I was the one that advised you to get one in arena
Secondly I can't get 60a mppt cos I already have 30a which is okay for 100ah battery...
Thirdly I can't get 4panel on 30a controller... If I can't get 20amp for the mppt am okay.
I just want to know how you where able to solve your ampere problem...like I said am using pwd and am getting 24v 6amp from my panel....but this new mppt is giving me 15v and 2.6amp which is way below the pwd controller.. I just want to know what you did to solved the ampere problem cos I know you are getting 2amp before and you where able to solve the problem.... Note my multimeter read 21v 3.4a this morning despite bad weather and at the same time my mppt read 15v and 2.6 amp...that is my concern why low ampere from mppt instead of getting more ampere from it.... I hope you understand me now

Ok great. Well there is nothing special that I did other than removing the Twin-Tech panel (which was bad) that was connected to the Africell and bought two extra Africells to boost the current. So I only use 3 Africell panels. Besides, these panels are not really efficient as the case may be. I was getting close to 5Amps and 14.3V or a little above using a PWM controller when the panel was new. There was no much difference when I even tried it on MPPT.

And like I said before, the settings on your controller can be adjusted. Your 12V battery charging at 24V is not healthy (I stand to be corrected), so I smell a settings issue here.

It could also mean that your battery is fully charged and being used at the same time. So it is also important you check the voltage of your battery using the multimeter. If it reads any where between 13.6V and 14.6V then it’s full or floating.