₦airaland Forum

Vehicle Details
- *Vehicle Model:* Honda Civic 2011
- *Engine Size:* 1.8 liters

Fuel Consumption Details
- *City driving fuel consumption:* 20.9 liters per 100 km
- *Fuel consumption per km:* 0.209 liters/km
- *Fuel cost per km:* ₦183.92 (₦880/liter × 0.209 liters/km)

Method of Calculation
To calculate the fuel consumption, I used the following method:
- When the fuel gauge shows yellow (indicating reserve fuel level), I purchase approximately 23 liters of fuel (₦20,000 worth).
- I reset the trip meter after each fuel refill.
- I drive normally until the fuel gauge shows yellow again.
- The trip meter consistently shows around 110 km, indicating that 23 liters of fuel is consumed over this distance.

Observed Issues
- *High fuel consumption:* The vehicle's fuel consumption is higher than expected for a Honda Civic 1.8-liter engine, even with the air conditioner on.

Please What could be the cause and solution.it's a tokunbo vehicle, though the mileage is high.

macuwon:
Vehicle Details
- *Vehicle Model:* Honda Civic 2011
- *Engine Size:* 1.8 liters

Fuel Consumption Details
- *City driving fuel consumption:* 20.9 liters per 100 km
- *Fuel consumption per km:* 0.209 liters/km
- *Fuel cost per km:* ₦183.92 (₦880/liter × 0.209 liters/km)

Method of Calculation
To calculate the fuel consumption, I used the following method:
- When the fuel gauge shows yellow (indicating reserve fuel level), I purchase approximately 23 liters of fuel (₦20,000 worth).
- I reset the trip meter after each fuel refill.
- I drive normally until the fuel gauge shows yellow again.
- The trip meter consistently shows around 110 km, indicating that 23 liters of fuel is consumed over this distance.

Observed Issues
- *High fuel consumption:* The vehicle's fuel consumption is higher than expected for a Honda Civic 1.8-liter engine, even with the air conditioner on.

Please What could be the cause and solution.it's a tokunbo vehicle, though the mileage is high.

1. Are sure the vehicle odometer is in km not miles?

2. Scan the vehicle, the code generated will let us know where to start your diagnosis from

nurey:
1. Are sure the vehicle odometer is in km not miles?

2. Scan the vehicle, the code generated will let us know where to start your diagnosis from

Please which oil is best to service a Naija used Honda DC. Previous owner replaced the engine not long ago & used 20w-50 for it

united4men:
Please which oil is best to service a Naija used Honda DC. Previous owner replaced the engine not long ago & used 20w-50 for it

If the engine is Tokunbo 5w30 should suffice. If you notice smoke or oil burn then maintain 20w50, change every 3000km or 3months which ever comes first

macuwon:
Vehicle Details
- *Vehicle Model:* Honda Civic 2011
- *Engine Size:* 1.8 liters

Fuel Consumption Details
- *City driving fuel consumption:* 20.9 liters per 100 km
- *Fuel consumption per km:* 0.209 liters/km
- *Fuel cost per km:* ₦183.92 (₦880/liter × 0.209 liters/km)

Method of Calculation
To calculate the fuel consumption, I used the following method:
- When the fuel gauge shows yellow (indicating reserve fuel level), I purchase approximately 23 liters of fuel (₦20,000 worth).
- I reset the trip meter after each fuel refill.
- I drive normally until the fuel gauge shows yellow again.
- The trip meter consistently shows around 110 km, indicating that 23 liters of fuel is consumed over this distance.

Observed Issues
- *High fuel consumption:* The vehicle's fuel consumption is higher than expected for a Honda Civic 1.8-liter engine, even with the air conditioner on.

Please What could be the cause and solution.it's a tokunbo vehicle, though the mileage is high.

Scan car and post codes. But this consumption is too much even if it's a 9ja used and you say this is a toks car. Getting 8km/LTR self is poor but still manageable.

nurey:
1. Are sure the vehicle odometer is in km not miles?

2. Scan the vehicle, the code generated will let us know where to start your diagnosis from

Yes the speedometer is calibrated in Km or Mph. He needs to be sure. This example is in Km

nurey:
Yes injectors have settings, check the exhaust if there is black smoke coming out from over dumping of fuel which results in incomplete combustion.

Injectors have settings? I've never heard this one before. Please educate us on how this setting works and how to adjust it?

Macmilla:
Injectors have settings? I've never heard this one before. Please educate us on how this setting works and how to adjust it?

1. What I mean by settings is standard, which is controlled by the ECU. The mechanic could have replaced his with wrong injectors.

2. They could have washed the injector with the wrong fluid thereby weakening the seals, it would cause leakage of fuel into the combustion chamber more than what the ECU should be spraying.

nurey:
1. What I mean by settings is standard, which is controlled by the ECU. The mechanic could have replaced his with wrong injectors.

2. They could have washed the injector with the wrong fluid thereby weakening the seals, it would cause leakage of fuel into the combustion chamber more than what the ECU should be spraying.

Ok o.
Please try to they use the correct words so that some of us no go de confuse. I'm already planning to remove my injectors to look for a screw to adjust to get better fuel economy.

Macmilla:
Ok o.
Please try to they use the correct words so that some of us no go de confuse. I'm already planning to remove my injectors to look for a screw to adjust to get better fuel economy.

Lol

Help me house, after injector nozzle change on my honda civic, there’s slight increase in fuel consumption that the long term fuel trim shoots to (-16.12%) it’s driving me nuts and I don’t have any error code after scanning but my mechanic suggests that i put catalyst in the vehicle because it doesn’t have any catalyst in d car at the moment.

temizeee:
Help me house, after injector nozzle change on my honda civic, there’s slight increase in fuel consumption that the long term fuel trim shoots to (-16.12%) it’s driving me nuts and I don’t have any error code after scanning but my mechanic suggests that i put catalyst in the vehicle because it doesn’t have any catalyst in d car at the moment.

Vehicle is running rich, nozzles should be removed from the vehicle and spray pattern should be checked also Check out for leaky nozzles.

sandammy:
Scan car and post codes. But this consumption is too much even if it's a 9ja used and you say this is a toks car. Getting 8km/LTR self is poor but still manageable.

You won't believe, they are no fault codes, just that from the live data, the long term fuel trim is very high.. Around -11, injector pulse width was high 4.6ms

Hello house,

I drive a tokunbo Honda Civic 2011 1.8L and I’ve been experiencing very high fuel consumption — currently around 17.4L/100km (about 5.7 km/l) at best, which is far above normal.

🔧 What I’ve Done So Far:
Installed a new MAF sensor

Cleaned the throttle body

Use Torque and Car Scanner apps

Got a P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) code earlier, but I cleared it and it hasn’t returned

Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is around -11%

MAF reading at idle is usually around 2.3 to 2.4 g/s

Despite all this, the car is still burning too much fuel.

🔍 What I Want to Check Next:
Possible injector leaks

Fuel pressure issues

Faulty downstream O2 sensor

Exhaust leak or failing catalytic converter

Full live data diagnosis beyond what my scanner can provide

Please, can anyone recommend a reliable and experienced Honda mechanic or auto electrician in Lagos (preferably mainland) who can run proper diagnostics — fuel pressure test, injector test, O2 sensor check, exhaust inspection, etc.?

Thanks a lot 🙏

temizeee:
Help me house, after injector nozzle change on my honda civic, there’s slight increase in fuel consumption that the long term fuel trim shoots to (-16.12%) it’s driving me nuts and I don’t have any error code after scanning but my mechanic suggests that i put catalyst in the vehicle because it doesn’t have any catalyst in d car at the moment.

you're better off removing a faulty catalytic converter than buying fakes or locally fabricated nonsense, a faulty catalytic converter can slightly increase your fuel consumption, while an absent catalytic converter will not increase fuel consumption, could make your engine breathe better, unburned "harmful" hydrocarbons is what the catalytic converter makes sure doesn't get released into the atmosphere, na all these climate change warriors force car manufacturers device and include am, no go waste money on top am, delete your mechanic's number!

nurey:
1. Are sure the vehicle odometer is in km not miles?

2. Scan the vehicle, the code generated will let us know where to start your diagnosis from

Odometer is in kilometres not miles, I'm very sure. There's a button to switch between the two.

There is no fault code bro, just that from live data, long term fuel trim is -11. Injector width is 4.6ms

macuwon:
Odometer is in kilometres not miles, I'm very sure. There's a button to switch between the two.

There is no fault code bro, just that from live data, long term fuel trim is -11. Injector width is 4.6ms

Injector width is within specs for idle. Your ltft says the engine is running rich, check your fan if they are direct and your thermostat if it is still there.

Also check your fuel tank, to ensure no leak from there.

nurey:
Injector width is within specs for idle. Your ltft says the engine is running rich, check your fan if they are direct and your thermostat if it is still there.

Also check your fuel tank, to ensure no leak from there.

The fan is not direct, thermostat is working

macuwon:
The fan is not direct, thermostat is working

Ruled out
1. Direct fan connection
2. Thermostat

Since you said the check engine light isn't on, let's rule out things that can't be scanned
1. Tire type you are using and the pressure pumped into them. Bigger tires has changed your stock setup by the manufacturer

2. Your driving pattern and habit, if you are heavy footed on the accelerator, expect higher than normal fuel usage.

3. Does the vehicle have a mpg calculator? If no, then how did you calculate the mpg.

4. What engine is in your civic or which trim LX, EX, Sir? You may have bigger engine than regular civics.

5. You said you changed the MAF, why did you change it? MAF may be letting in more air than necessary and ECU trying to compensate for that, though I believe there should be a code.

nurey:
Ruled out
1. Direct fan connection
2. Thermostat

Since you said the check engine light isn't on, let's rule out things that can't be scanned
1. Tire type you are using and the pressure pumped into them. Bigger tires has changed your stock setup by the manufacturer

2. Your driving pattern and habit, if you are heavy footed on the accelerator, expect higher than normal fuel usage.

3. Does the vehicle have a mpg calculator? If no, then how did you calculate the mpg.

4. What engine is in your civic or which trim LX, EX, Sir? You may have bigger engine than regular civics.

5. You said you changed the MAF, why did you change it? MAF may be letting in more air than necessary and ECU trying to compensate for that, though I believe there should be a code.

1- The tyre type is the stock 195/65/R15
2 - heavy footed a few times but shouldn't reflect to that much of a difference.
3 - it doesn't have an mpg calculator, i measure by how many liters i buy, and set the trip odometer and also check the fuel level with my scanner and then compare it when the fuel has finished.
4 - It's VP trim sir, in between dx and lx.
5 - the maf seemed to be over reporting airflow, the readings were always high, from 2.4 to 4 and above, i thought changing it would fix the issue, but the reading has reduced a bit now, around 2.0 to 2.4 with the new sensor, though the first few days after installation, I was getting maf air flow as low as 1.9
There's no fault code, it came initially with a bad downstream 02 sensor and i replaced it and the light cleared but still consuming fuel. The only other fault code it has ever shown is the p0420 (catalyst efficiency below threshold) but I've cleared the code with my scanner and it hasn't come back. Can catalyst alone be the cause of the high fuel consumption? 17-20ltrs/100km

macuwon:
1- The tyre type is the stock 195/65/R15
2 - heavy footed a few times but shouldn't reflect to that much of a difference.
3 - it doesn't have an mpg calculator, i measure by how many liters i buy, and set the trip odometer and also check the fuel level with my scanner and then compare it when the fuel has finished.
4 - It's VP trim sir, in between dx and lx.
5 - the maf seemed to be over reporting airflow, the readings were always high, from 2.4 to 4 and above, i thought changing it would fix the issue, but the reading has reduced a bit now, around 2.0 to 2.4 with the new sensor, though the first few days after installation, I was getting maf air flow as low as 1.9
There's no fault code, it came initially with a bad downstream 02 sensor and i replaced it and the light cleared but still consuming fuel. The only other fault code it has ever shown is the p0420 (catalyst efficiency below threshold) but I've cleared the code with my scanner and it hasn't come back. Can catalyst alone be the cause of the high fuel consumption? 17-20ltrs/100km

The way you calculate your mpg isn't really standard. You are supposed to buy full tank, do 100km then refill, that will tell you the mpg using the fuel gauge isn't standard because gravity affects it. Also the fuel level sensor is just showing a picture of what is available in the tank, it may not show difference when you you are 10L difference. Reason why when your tank is full, rate of reduction is slow, but when you enter half tank, rate of reduction recorded is high.

Catalyst job is to convert harmful gases into environmental friendly gas not fuel economy. The place fuel economy effect come into play is through the attached oxygen sensors. But it is still possible the inefficiency recorded by the ECU on the CC is causing the high fuel consumption.

macuwon:
1- The tyre type is the stock 195/65/R15
2 - heavy footed a few times but shouldn't reflect to that much of a difference.
3 - it doesn't have an mpg calculator, i measure by how many liters i buy, and set the trip odometer and also check the fuel level with my scanner and then compare it when the fuel has finished.
4 - It's VP trim sir, in between dx and lx.
5 - the maf seemed to be over reporting airflow, the readings were always high, from 2.4 to 4 and above, i thought changing it would fix the issue, but the reading has reduced a bit now, around 2.0 to 2.4 with the new sensor, though the first few days after installation, I was getting maf air flow as low as 1.9
There's no fault code, it came initially with a bad downstream 02 sensor and i replaced it and the light cleared but still consuming fuel. The only other fault code it has ever shown is the p0420 (catalyst efficiency below threshold) but I've cleared the code with my scanner and it hasn't come back. Can catalyst alone be the cause of the high fuel consumption? 17-20ltrs/100km

Also for me if i am in your shoes, i will go the easy route first, gather funds and fill your tank, do 100km then refill tank, if possible try it three times lets get an average. if you are getting anything higher than 10L (i factored in age of the vehicle and mileage) for city/combined then i can say the catalyst effect is letting the ECU dump more fuel than expected.

But if you are getting close to 15 to 20L per 100km, my brother you may have a leak. I am saying leak because i have experienced it, especially from the tank area which may not even give odour for quick detection, one has to go under to confirm.

nas00:
Hello Sir.

The recommended transmission fluid change interval is whichever of the following comes first:

1) 90,000 miles
2) 144,000 Km
3) 72 months

Use only original ATF-DW1.

See the manufacterer's maintence recommendations in the manual (link below) for confirmation.

Cheers!


https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/SI9999/SI9999O00132A.pdf

pls do you still have access to techinfo.honda ?

Please who knows a good mech or electrician that can reprogram my throttle position sensor with a diagnostic equipment?

My 07 Honda Accord have been going into limp mode, with codes related to the throttle position sensor .

I have replaced these sensor but the issue still persists.

I’ll appreciate any link.

Thank you.

tpain121:
Please who knows a good mech or electrician that can reprogram my throttle position sensor with a diagnostic equipment?

My 07 Honda Accord have been going into limp mode, with codes related to the throttle position sensor .

I have replaced these sensor but the issue still persists.

I’ll appreciate any link.

Thank you.

I doubt if the 07 accord needs the TPS programmed. The replacement TPS you got might still be bad or something else is disturbing your car. It could be a wiring problem. You can put your original TPS in another car and see if it works.

My Honda civic 06 has been making this annoying sound coming from the belt adjuster my mech advised that I change the adjuster which I have done and thereafter the noise/sound went off but after some time it's back and getting worse. Pls what do I need to do, has anyone experience such before as I learnt it's common with this model

Good day guys, I need your help. I own a 2007 Honda Civic (US), the fuel consumption has been very high and the car vibrates during a cold start and at certain speeds, I had I scanned and it returned the following codes



Please assist.

1. if you pass through places with bad roads .. go for the crosstour because of ground clearance. This is Nigeria though there is a tendency to see bad road or a very high speed bump
2. Engine wise the crosstour engine 2.4 litre 4 cylinder is more reliable than the accord engine ..but if you must go for the accord go for the 2.0 litre turbo charged engine and not the 1.5 turbo charged one and be meticulous about your oil changes with full synthetic oil because of your turbo charger
3. the v6 in the crosstour is aslo very reliable and with great throttle response and acceleration if you want something fast. However i would advice you disable the VCM with a vcm muzzler to preserve your engine

you can reach out directly i can provide more details

Taalent:
Hello 👋 Guys, its urgent.

Can you help me choose the best toks car in terms of reliability between the 2019 Honda Accord Touring and 2015 Honda crosstour. This is my first car.

NB: I don't really care about fuel efficiency and my budget is from 18m to 30m last.

I await your replies bosses!!!!!

titohlaw:
Good day guys, I need your help. I own a 2007 Honda Civic (US), the fuel consumption has been very high and the car vibrates during a cold start and at certain speeds, I had I scanned and it returned the following codes



Please assist.

Location of your car?
You need to perform tune ups and properly check your car. If in abuja dm me

kingreign:
Location of your car?
You need to perform tune ups and properly check your car. If in abuja dm me

I'm in Lagos.

Hi titohlaw, the error codes you provided indicate issues with the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. These sensors are crucial for engine timing and performance, and a malfunction can definitely cause the issues you're experiencing.

Here's what I would suggest:
1. **Replace both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors:** These sensors are known to fail over time, and it's best to replace them both at the same time.
2. **Check the wiring:** Inspect the wiring to both sensors for any damage or corrosion.
3. **Check the timing belt:** A worn or damaged timing belt can also cause these issues. If it hasn't been replaced recently, it's a good idea to have it inspected.

It's best to have a qualified mechanic perform these checks and repairs. I hope this helps!

Hi Benagro, it's common for the belt tensioner to be a source of noise in that model. Since you've already replaced the adjuster, here are a few other things to check:

1. **The belt itself:** A worn or frayed belt can cause noise.
2. **The tensioner pulley:** The pulley itself can wear out and cause noise.
3. **Other pulleys:** Check the other pulleys in the belt system (alternator, power steering, etc.) for any signs of wear or damage.
4. **Alignment:** Make sure all the pulleys are properly aligned.

It would be best to have a mechanic take a look to pinpoint the exact source of the noise. I hope this helps!