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Hi all does 450000 mileage foreign 2010 Toyota Camry good deal

45000 àbi 400,000?

Chemist4life:
Hi all does 450000 mileage foreign 2010 Toyota Camry good deal

The mileage is very high, look for the one with 150k to 200k

[quote author=Chemist4life post=137409440][/quote]

Zyzman:
Hello House.

Please recommend a perfect tokunbo car for a first time owner (a young man).

Budget is like 7m.

I want a car that has low fuel consumption, low cost maintenance, easy to fix and source for parts, classy and presentable.

Your recommendations will be highly appreciated sirs.

Sadly, 7m won’t get you any tokunbo vehicle that you’d really like today. That’s the sad Reality we face in Nigeria. You’re better off with getting a very clean toks standard vehicle ( registered ) of your choice, make sure vehicle is inspected and just buy now.

Chemist4life:
Hi all does 450000 mileage foreign 2010 Toyota Camry good deal

Mileage is pretty high, wear and tear would be higher. And we can’t fully ascertain if its former user was religious with maintenance so there are a lot of grey areas. Just look for another option sir. Are you in the market for this vehicle or just doing a quick research on it first ?

Chemist4life:
Hi all does 450000 mileage foreign 2010 Toyota Camry good deal

If it was a taxi in its former life, let it go. If its a fleet car or a personal car. Check its records and service history. If they are well documented and its service has been meticulous, go for it.

Highway mileage cars are better than city driven cars with low mileage that are stuck idling in traffic for long hours in stop and go traffic.


In the end, it still ultimately rest on you to decide.

You can decide to get it and change the engine later if it's not accident car,
But if it's accident car, you can let it go.

Such car won't cost much in auction, between $400 to $1200

Shipping exclusive

[quote author=Chemist4life post=137409440][/quote]

Chemist4life:
Hi all does 450000 mileage foreign 2010 Toyota Camry good deal

Hi all, I want to go into poultry farming, eggs mainly, and I am looking to start with very old layers from the best and most popular bird seller, who is widely trusted, these old layers will be sold at a very discounted price, customers of this bird seller say these very old layers will still lay lots of eggs, and I could get my money's value, should I proceed?
You get the point now? I doubt you'll be asking this question if the brand of the car was Nissan or Mitsubishi, all cars wear, and this is directly proportional to mileage, how fast or slow this happens depends on how the car was driven, and how it was maintained, at 450,000 miles, you must disregard all the "hows" and look for another car, that car is gone, that's at least 30,000 a year in miles over the last fifteen years, 30,000 a year is super excessive, it doesn't matter if it was made by Honda, Toyota, Nissan and Ford combined, you're better off buying a Nigerian used 1998 Camry with verified mileage of 200,000 miles, or a brand new bike.

Pls I need help on my 2003 Acura tsx, the issue on it is that the rpm is bellow 1 and when I put on the ac it will be vibrating and when I load the car to drive or reverse the vibration will be worse and sometimes the car will just off my rewire has scanned it and check possible issue to an extent of changing the engine and still the problem persists and they have scanned it and it shows no error code, pls any help

lekcyhannah:
Pls I need help on my 2003 Acura tsx, the issue on it is that the rpm is bellow 1 and when I put on the ac it will be vibrating and when I load the car to drive or reverse the vibration will be worse and sometimes the car will just off my rewire has scanned it and check possible issue to an extent of changing the engine and still the problem persists and they have scanned it and it shows no error code, pls any help

Good day boss,

Here’s the clear professional breakdown of what’s happening with your 2003 Acura TSX.
Let’s walk through it in the standard Ryan Automotive Limited.

⸻

🔧 Problem Introduction

You’re experiencing low idle (below 1k RPM), vibration when A/C is ON, and worse vibration when shifting into Drive or Reverse.
Sometimes the engine even goes off, yet no error codes — and the worst part: they even changed the engine but the issue remained.

This is a classic sign that the problem is not the engine itself, but one of the systems controlling idle stability.

Let’s break it down properly 👇🏽

⸻

📌 TECHNICAL BREAKDOWN

1. Likely Causes of Low Idle + Vibration + No Error Codes

These are the top culprits we see specifically in Honda/Acura K-series engines:

(A) Faulty/Weak Idle Air Control (IAC) System

Even when no code appears, a stuck or weak IAC valve will cause:
• Low idle
• Vibration under load
• Stalling when A/C or gear engages
• Delayed idle correction

The IAC on this model is very sensitive and often fails without throwing codes.

⸻

(B) Restricted/Dirty Throttle Body or Incorrect Throttle Body Calibration

If the throttle body is dirty OR the idle screw has been tampered with:
• Idle drops
• A/C load becomes too heavy
• RPM won’t compensate
• Engine dies when shifting

When mechanics “adjust idle”, they usually tamper with the throttle stop screw — this makes the problem worse.

⸻

(C) Weak or Failed Engine Mounts (VERY COMMON ON TSX)

If the mounts are bad, the real vibration is worsened when the engine loads (A/C or gear engaged).
This creates the illusion of engine trouble.

Signs:
• Car shakes strongly in gear
• Idle feels rough
• A/C worsens vibration

TSX engine mounts fail quietly — no codes.

⸻

(D) A/C Compressor Drag / Excessive Load

If the compressor clutch or compressor itself is weak:
• RPM drops instantly
• Car vibrates heavily
• Engine stalls

No scanner will detect this because it’s mechanical.

⸻

(E) Vacuum Leak (Small or Unnoticeable Type)

Even a tiny leak will cause:
• Unstable idle
• Vibration
• Engine dying under load

Most roadside scans do not detect small vacuum leaks.

⸻

⸻

🛠️ Recommended Fix Steps (Do This in Order)

1. Carry out a REAL Idle System Diagnosis

Not just scanning — physical tests:
• Test IACV response
• Clean IAC & passageway
• Clean throttle body without touching idle screw
• Perform throttle body idle relearn (Acura procedure)

⸻

2. Inspect Engine Mounts

Check:
• Front mount
• Rear (torque) mount
• Right side mount

If any is bad, vibration will appear exactly as you described.

⸻

3. A/C Compressor Load Test

When A/C engages, check if:
• RPM drops more than 150
• Compressor clutch drags
• Fan speed changes

A dragging compressor alone can cause the stalling.

⸻

4. Vacuum Leak Test

Must include:
• Hose inspection
• Intake manifold check
• Brake booster line check

A smoke test is best.

⸻

⸻

⚙️ RYAN AUTOMOTIVE WORKSHOP PROFESSIONAL TAKE

We’ve handled this exact TSX/K24 issue multiple times, especially after customers spend money changing:
• Engine
• Injectors
• Sensors
• Plugs
• Throttle body

…yet the problem remains.

In nearly every case, the real causes were:
• Faulty IAC valve (no code)
• Dirty throttle body or wrong idle calibration
• Bad engine mounts
• A/C compressor overload

Once these are fixed following the strict diagnostic order, the TSX returns to a stable 700–750 RPM, even with A/C ON.

We never recommend touching the idle screw — that destroys factory settings.

⸻

📌 PROFESSIONAL SUMMARY

Your engine is not the problem — the idle-control system, engine mounts, A/C load, or vacuum stability is.

Focus on:
1. IAC / Throttle body system
2. Engine mounts
3. A/C load test
4. Vacuum leak inspection

Do these in the right order and the problem will be solved without wasting more money.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
Lagos, Nigeria
Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Good afternoon to all the car Gurus here.

I drive a 2008 honda (evil spirit 2 doors) and the current issue is that the car is not moving well on a high terrain. It does the same while on reverse gear. When I try to forcefully accelerate, the engine will want to go off. My mechanic advised that I should change the gear and I did. Unfortunately, the problem still persists after the gear replacement.

What could be the problem my dear gurus in the house?

mayorrlad:
Good afternoon to all the car Gurus here.

I drive a 2008 honda (evil spirit 2 doors) and the current issue is that the car is not moving well on a high terrain. It does the same while on reverse gear. When I try to forcefully accelerate, the engine will want to go off. My mechanic advised that I should change the gear and I did. Unfortunately, the problem still persists after the gear replacement.

What could be the problem my dear gurus in the house?

Good afternoon, fellow car enthusiasts.

Thank you for sharing the detailed description of your 2008 Honda “Evil Spirit” 2-door issue. From what you’ve described, the car struggles to move on inclines in both forward and reverse, and the engine tends to stall when you try to accelerate. You also mentioned that the gear was replaced, but the problem persists — which suggests the issue is not limited to the gear itself.

⸻

🔧 Possible Causes & What to Check
1. Clutch / Transmission Issue
• Even with a new gear, if the clutch is slipping or the torque converter (for automatic) is weak, the car won’t transfer power efficiently uphill.
• Signs: Slipping when accelerating, engine revs rising without speed, strange noises, or burning smell.
• Solution: Inspect clutch plates, pressure plate, and release bearing (manual), or torque converter and transmission fluid (automatic).
2. Fuel Delivery Problems
• A weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or dirty throttle body can cause the engine to stall under load.
• Signs: Hesitation on acceleration, stalling on incline, rough idling.
• Solution: Check fuel pump pressure, replace the fuel filter if old, clean throttle body and intake system.
3. Ignition or Sensor Faults
• Faulty sensors like the MAF (Mass Airflow), oxygen sensor, or worn spark plugs can cause poor engine response, especially under load.
• Signs: Engine stalls or hesitates when trying to accelerate uphill, uneven power delivery.
• Solution: Run a full diagnostic scan, replace any faulty sensors, and ensure spark plugs are in good condition.

⸻

⚙️ Why This Happens

From our experience, many Hondas of this age with similar symptoms don’t fix the problem with gear replacement alone. Often, it’s a combination of clutch load issues and fuel delivery under stress. Ignoring this may lead to further engine strain or transmission damage.

⸻

✅ Recommended Next Step

For accurate diagnosis and repair, it’s best to have a full inspection done by professionals rather than replacing parts randomly. If you’re in Lagos or can arrange it, our team at Ryan Automotive Limited specializes in this kind of Honda issue. We can:
• Diagnose the exact cause using modern diagnostic tools.
• Test the clutch/torque converter and fuel system under load.
• Provide precise repair solutions to fix the problem permanently.

You can reach us via DM, WhatsApp, or email, and we’ll guide you step by step to get your car performing perfectly again.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
Lagos, Nigeria
Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Please how much is a Toyota Rav 4,2003 ECU cost?

Felakezman:
Good morning all..pls i notice a jerk back on rx350 2010 when on 1500rmp..the car does not have any code on gear and engine pls what could be the problem..thanks and i await your reaponse

Good morning Sir, and thank you for your question.

From your description, that jerk/kick-back around 1500 RPM on your RX350 2010 — even with no engine or gearbox code — is a very common partial-load hesitation issue on the 3.5L V6.

Let me break it down clearly:

⸻

1️⃣ What Usually Causes This (Even Without Any Fault Code)

A. Partially Dirty MAF Sensor

This is the number one culprit.
When the Mass Air Flow sensor gets slightly dirty, the engine miscalculates air at 1,200–1,800 RPM, causing a small jerk during light acceleration.
It won’t trigger any warning light.

B. Throttle Body Carbon Build-Up

If the throttle plate is not opening smoothly, the car will hesitate or jerk at low RPM.

C. Weak/Lazy Ignition Coil

A coil can misfire under load without showing a check-engine light.
This also gives the exact 1500RPM jerk you mentioned.

D. Engine/Transmission Mounts

On RX350, a weak mount will cause:
• Kick-back when accelerating lightly
• Cabin vibration
• Jerks around 1500 RPM

E. Low-RPM Transmission Pressure Issue

Even if there’s no code, the shift pressure control can drag slightly.

⸻

2️⃣ What You Should Check First (In the Proper Order)
1. Clean the MAF sensor — using MAF cleaner only.
2. Clean the throttle body — proper manual cleaning.
3. Inspect engine and gearbox mounts.
4. Load-test the ignition coils — not just scanning.
5. Check transmission fluid condition (color, smell, level).

These five steps resolve 90% of RX350 low-RPM jerk complaints we see.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop Professional Take

We’ve fixed this exact complaint multiple times on RX350, ES350, Camry V6 and Highlander.
In most cases, MAF + throttle body service immediately stops the jerk.
Where the jerk persists, engine mount or a weak coil is usually the confirmed cause after proper testing.

⸻

Professional Summary

Your issue is fixable without guessing.
Start with airflow cleaning (MAF + throttle body), then check mounts and coils.
If you want, we can guide you step-by-step or run a proper diagnosis for you.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
Lagos, Nigeria
Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

Who knows the cost of half-engine of a Toyota Highlander (2012) model. 6 (small) plugs. I will appreciate your response. Thanks in anticipation.

sunnymighty:
Who knows the cost of half-engine of a Toyota Highlander (2012) model. 6 (small) plugs. I will appreciate your response. Thanks in anticipation.

Around 500k to 550k.
Complete engine 900k to 1m

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Anyone knows one Tunde Soiye in Lagos that deals on cars? Or can anyone recommend a good car dealer here for me? Thanks

9icegee:
Anyone knows one Tunde Soiye in Lagos that deals on cars? Or can anyone recommend a good car dealer here for me? Thanks

I’m not familiar with Tunde Soiye personally, but if you’re open to recommendations, you can check Ryan Automotive Limited in Lagos.
They deal in foreign-used and locally used vehicles, focus on proper inspection before sale, and also assist with documentation and post-purchase support.
I’ve come across a few positive transactions linked to them on this platform.

Lies. Top cylinder 300k

Abbeyismo:
Around 500k to 550k.
Complete engine 900k to 1m

2cribz:
Lies. Top cylinder 300k

Mumu na ur way

Thi f

Abbeyismo:
Mumu na ur way

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Regard

In need of a young energetic, decent and experienced Uber driver to manage my car on Rental basis.

Only those residing along these axis- Abule Egba, Agege, Fagba, Iju-Ishaga, Obawole and environs pls.
Further details via WhatsApp. Quote me and drop your contact.

I av bought up to 3 alternator for 2008 honda civic 1.8l, And still whenever the car is at low rev, it stop charging. Please help. I am in benin city

Hello everyone, please I need advice. I drive a Hyundai Elantra 2010 (automatic). When I bought the car, the gear oil was very low, so my mechanic topped it up with about 4 litres. The car drove fine initially, but it sometimes struggles to downshift when going uphill.

I don’t drive the car often. About 6 months later, the mechanic checked again and discovered the gear oil had reduced significantly, so we topped it up with about 2 litres. Unfortunately, within one week all the oil leaked out.

I then called another mechanic who changed the oil seal, drained the remaining oil, and refilled with 4 litres again. Now, just over one month later, the gear oil is low again, the ride is no longer smooth, and the issues persist:

Poor/downshift issues
Delayed gear engagement
When I change gears, it takes about 3 seconds before it reflects on the dashboard

I’ve also scanned the car before and got a transmission error code related to a solenoid.
I stay around the Ojodu Berger, Alagbole axis, and I’m honestly scared to drive the car so the gearbox doesn’t pack up completely.
Please, what I do next? I need a good gear specialist that can fix this issue

Oboli007:
I av bought up to 3 alternator for 2008 honda civic 1.8l, And still whenever the car is at low rev, it stop charging. Please help. I am in benin city

Check ELD and engine bay fuse box. Also, check ground wires.

sunnymighty:
In need of a young energetic, decent and experienced Uber driver to manage my car on Rental basis.

Only those residing along these axis- Abule Egba, Agege, Fagba, Iju-Ishaga, Obawole and environs pls.
Further details via WhatsApp. Quote me and drop your contact.

08132848509

Hello 👋 Auto lovers, listen up!
Why are oil changes NON-NEGOTIABLE?
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2. Boosts fuel efficiency
3. Adds YEARS to your car's life Skip them = expensive regrets
What's YOUR top maintenance hack? Drop it below!
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