₦airaland Forum

Who can recommend a reliable honda spare part seller in ladipo.. I want to get a direct Belgium egr valve

Send your phone number, I will give you the contact of the person that deals on Honda and Nisan parts

haykay2005:
Who can recommend a reliable honda spare part seller in ladipo.. I want to get a direct Belgium egr valve

minista94:
Send your phone number, I will give you the contact of the person that deals on Honda and Nisan parts

08032949061

larrypourl:
I need price quote for the following Honda parts.

1. New Tensioner Adjuster not Toks
2. New 7pk2170 Drive belt.
3. Toks Automatic AC Compressor.

Car is Honda Civic 2007.

Thanks you!

Your compressor (TOKS) is available for 60k if you still need it.
1month guarantee

Good day all. Pls I need help with my 08 accord 4plug.

When i engage the gear, it moves fine, but the moment I slow down, only gear 1 works. It won't transmit to 2 or higher gears. I often had to pull over, put the gear in Park or neutral , then back to Drive again , for it to select well for some times. This cycle continues until I get to my destination. No be juju be dis so ? Lol.

Pls advise.

PrinceBYC:
Good day all. Pls I need help with my 08 accord 4plug.

When i engage the gear, it moves fine, but the moment I slow down, only gear 1 works. It won't transmit to 2 or higher gears. I often had to pull over, put the gear in Park or neutral , then back to Drive again , for it to select well for some times. This cycle continues until I get to my destination. No be juju be dis so ? Lol.

Pls advise.

Does the d light blink when this happens ( or even on ignition ?
- how’s the condition of the tranny fluid ( color )
- try checking it by warming up the car, go through the park position all down to reverse and back to park. While still running the car check transmission fluid level.
- lastly run a scan ( I mean using a scan tool that can check the transmission for trouble codes )

Planned obsolescence. Honda Don join gang.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IBmTkneTSI?si=Zh7zK-1oRLCCoJD3

I have this AC compressor for R18/R20 Honda civic for sale .
Price is 60k
1 month money-back guarantee

Location is Mainland, Lagos.

Contact is on signature

Louiscars:
Does the d light blink when this happens ( or even on ignition ?
- how’s the condition of the tranny fluid ( color )
- try checking it by warming up the car, go through the park position all down to reverse and back to park. While still running the car check transmission fluid level.
- lastly run a scan ( I mean using a scan tool that can check the transmission for trouble codes )

Thank you for this.
The D light doesn't blink. Fluid colour and level are ok. Scanned and did not throw up any transmission related code.

Someone suggested that the TCM be checked. That it's probably not sending appropriate signals consistently. Could the speed wheels sensors affect too?

The problem is the sensor

Where is your location?

PrinceBYC:
Good day all. Pls I need help with my 08 accord 4plug.

When i engage the gear, it moves fine, but the moment I slow down, only gear 1 works. It won't transmit to 2 or higher gears. I often had to pull over, put the gear in Park or neutral , then back to Drive again , for it to select well for some times. This cycle continues until I get to my destination. No be juju be dis so ? Lol.

Pls advise.

Greetings all, how much is complete engine for accord DC 4 cylinders?
Cc: luvinhubby

minista94:
The problem is the sensor

Where is your location?

Lagos. Thanks

PrinceBYC:
Good day all. Pls I need help with my 08 accord 4plug.

When i engage the gear, it moves fine, but the moment I slow down, only gear 1 works. It won't transmit to 2 or higher gears. I often had to pull over, put the gear in Park or neutral , then back to Drive again , for it to select well for some times. This cycle continues until I get to my destination. No be juju be dis so ? Lol.

Pls advise.

Good day boss,
Let’s break this down clearly and professionally as Ryan Automotive Limited, so you understand exactly what is happening to your 2008 Honda Accord (4-plug) transmission.

⸻

TECHNICAL BREAKDOWN OF WHAT YOUR SYMPTOMS MEAN

1️⃣ Gear 1 Holding & Refusing to Upshift When You Slow Down

When a Honda:
• selects all gears normally at first
• then after slowing down falls back to Gear 1 only
• and only resets after shifting to Park/Neutral

…it means the transmission is losing a key control signal, not that the gearbox is “bad.”

This points toward the electronic control side, not the mechanical parts.

⸻

2️⃣ Why No Codes Show Up (Even Though The Issue Is Serious)

Honda transmissions can fail in ways that don’t trigger a direct code, especially when:
• a sensor signal becomes intermittent
• a solenoid is sticking but not fully dead
• the TCM is losing communication for split seconds
• the internal harness has partial contact issues

So no code does NOT mean the transmission is fine.

⸻

3️⃣ Why It Resets When You Put it in Park/Neutral

This is a big clue.

Park/Neutral forces the transmission computer (TCM) to:
• restart its shift sequence
• re-read the speed sensors
• re-engage the solenoids
• re-sync clutch pressure

If doing this makes the car shift normally again (even for a short time), it means:
• the TCM is receiving inconsistent data
• or struggling to maintain internal shift pressure

This is why someone suggested checking the TCM.

⸻

4️⃣ Can Speed Sensors Cause This? YES — 100%

Honda uses two primary transmission speed inputs:
• Input speed sensor
• Output speed sensor

If one of these drops for even a second:
• the TCM gets confused
• it cannot calculate gear ratio
• transmission defaults to failsafe (which can be ONLY Gear 1)
• D light will NOT always blink
• No code will always show

So your question is valid:
Speed sensors can absolutely cause your exact symptoms.

⸻

5️⃣ What About The TCM?

If the TCM:
• sends late signals
• loses internal ground
• overheats
• has corroded pins
• or has broken solder joints

…it will affect shifting exactly the way you’re describing — especially the “shift to Park/Neutral then it works again” pattern.

However…
TCM is never the first thing to replace without a structured diagnostic.

⸻

⚙️ RYAN AUTOMOTIVE WORKSHOP PROFESSIONAL TAKE

We see this exact complaint from 2008–2012 Accord owners constantly:
• Moves well initially
• Slow down → stuck in 1st
• No warning lights
• No codes
• Works again after shifting to Park/Neutral

In 90% of cases we handle at Ryan Automotive Workshop, the fault ends up being:
• inconsistent speed sensor signal
• internal transmission solenoid communication issue
• TCM control logic glitch
• or an internal pressure fault that needs professional evaluation

These Accords are very sensitive to signal loss — even minor issues can cause full shift disruption.

A structured diagnostic session is what actually solves this, not random replacement.

⸻

PROFESSIONAL SUMMARY

Your transmission is not “juju,” and it’s not a random issue.
Your Accord is experiencing a control signal inconsistency affecting gear changes.

This requires:
• proper electronic pathway checks
• full TCM + speed sensor evaluation
• and a controlled shift-pressure diagnostic

All these need to be handled by a professional workshop that truly understands Honda systems.

For a clean, accurate solution without guesswork, you can reach out to:

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
Lagos, Nigeria
Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

PrinceBYC:
Thank you for this.
The D light doesn't blink. Fluid colour and level are ok. Scanned and did not throw up any transmission related code.

Someone suggested that the TCM be checked. That it's probably not sending appropriate signals consistently. Could the speed wheels sensors affect too?

I doubt the car as a TCM but rather controlled by the ECU. Do you have speed sensor related fault codes

There's Honda specialist in pH, maybe you call him and explain to him what you're experiencing

PrinceBYC:
Lagos. Thanks

Any good Honda specialist around kubwa Abuja or Abuja generally.
My 08 accord legs has pulled like 4 times this year.
Need a permanent fix for it.

supersaz66:
Any good Honda specialist around kubwa Abuja or Abuja generally.
My 08 accord legs has pulled like 4 times this year.
Need a permanent fix for it.

Search the moniker Kingreign here on Nairaland, he’ll handle it competently. This is his mobile number 07034581213

Androidking:
Good day every one ,

Honda CrV 2007 model.


On cold start the car ,steam well and sound is ok , but when I started driving for like 10 minutes,

The Rpm will be irregular while on drive , even if I am not pressing the gas pedal the rpm will go as high as 2000rpm , and then drops again to 1000 or 1500 , ... .. sometimes when it's at 2000rpm it will not drop until I press the gas pedal will force , which will high the rpm and make it drop ,


The irregularities in the rpm is annoying and it's affecting the performance and fuel consumption.

I talked to my mechanic he said it could be over heating.


Another issue I noticed is oil indicator flashing every now and then , I have too the oil it's still happening,

I recently changed oil pump , cam shaft , crankshaft

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak?? ALSO HAVE YOU SCANNED??

remi4ever:
Update:

I have been coming here to complain about my rough idling and vibration issue for a while now and I have been able to resolve it. Apparently the engine does not compress well anymore as a result of abuse by the previous owner.

So yesterday, I headed to zuba with a friend of mine who's also a mechanic to get a replacement engine.

The engine we got was so clean internally and externally. It was shiny and a direct toks.

After about 3 hours the engine was installed. New engine oil 5w30 and filter was installed.

Car runs silently and not a single vibration when AC and All electrical loads were applied.

Not a single CEL too. Thermostat and original fan config remains. I took the thermostat from the new engine also as a backup for whenever this one fails.

Thank you all for your assistance and guidance. God bless.

Hello guys,

I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.

This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.

I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.

CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,

That meko is. Wako. Its either camshaft teeths. Bent valves or bent rods.its starving of oil. E don be.and u still dey drive am like that

remi4ever:
Hello guys,

I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.

This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.

I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.

CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,

remi4ever:
Hello guys,

I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.

This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.

I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.

CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,

This would require a physical inspection .

@andriodking Did this work? I am having similar challenges

remi4ever:
Check for vacuum leaks (especially around the intake manifold gasket and PCV hose).

Clean the throttle body and IACV thoroughly.

Bleed the cooling system to remove trapped air.

Scan the car with an OBD2 scanner to check for hidden codes even if no light is showing.

Check the ECT sensor, if it’s giving wrong readings, replace it.
You mentioned you changed the oil pump, camshaft, and crankshaft, but the oil light still flashes. That’s serious o don’t ignore it.

You should check these...

1. Low oil pressure despite new pump, maybe:

Wrong oil viscosity (too thin)

Blocked oil passages

Worn crank bearings or camshaft bearings


2. Faulty oil pressure switch Sometimes the switch itself is bad, especially if it flickers only at idle.


3. Wiring/connector issue loose oil sensor connector or shorted wire.

remi4ever:
Hello guys,

I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.

This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.

I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.

CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,

This will definitely require physical inspection or a video at least. But one big advise i will give you even without seeing your car is that you should run away from that mechanic you mentioned. Run like your life depends on it. Like you rightly said, if the sound was there and you changed engine but the sound persisted, then the sound can't be coming from the engine. Find a better technician to look at the car.

remi4ever:
Update:

I have been coming here to complain about my rough idling and vibration issue for a while now and I have been able to resolve it. Apparently the engine does not compress well anymore as a result of abuse by the previous owner.

So yesterday, I headed to zuba with a friend of mine who's also a mechanic to get a replacement engine.

The engine we got was so clean internally and externally. It was shiny and a direct toks.

After about 3 hours the engine was installed. New engine oil 5w30 and filter was installed.

Car runs silently and not a single vibration when AC and All electrical loads were applied.

Not a single CEL too. Thermostat and original fan config remains. I took the thermostat from the new engine also as a backup for whenever this one fails.

Thank you all for your assistance and guidance. God bless.

Is this the same car you are now hearing rattling sound from? If yes, then I'm confused at the bold comment.

Macmilla:
Is this the same car you are now hearing rattling sound from? If yes, then I'm confused at the bold comment.

Thank you for your response. I made that comment a day after changing the engine.

Apparently there was a vacuum leak that made the rpm idle at 800+ after the engine was changed. So I had the hose connected properly.

Something tells me that the sounds is from the transmission. It is intermittent not all the time and it only happens when engine has warmed up.

Two mechanics have said that the gasket is metallic and it's somehow grinding Bla bla bla.. I cannot make sense out of it to be honest.

The second issue is, I still have this low rpm when engine is warm and brake is depressed. I have checked for vacuum leak on the brake booster and done a smoke test twice to detect vacuum leak but nothing.

With brake depressed rpm drops to about 650, which causes vibration but if I use the handbrake without the brakes, rpm is apprx 750.

Also, if I turn on the headlight, Wether brake is depressed or not rpm is stable at 750 because the engine is compensating for the extra load.

I have done a proper idle relearn procedure and I'm not sure what else to do.

Are either of you in Abuja?

Cc: Louiscars

remi4ever:
Thank you for your response. I made that comment a day after changing the engine.

Apparently there was a vacuum leak that made the rpm idle at 800+ after the engine was changed. So I had the hose connected properly.

Something tells me that the sounds is from the transmission. It is intermittent not all the time and it only happens when engine has warmed up.

Two mechanics have said that the gasket is metallic and it's somehow grinding Bla bla bla.. I cannot make sense out of it to be honest.

The second issue is, I still have this low rpm when engine is warm and brake is depressed. I have checked for vacuum leak on the brake booster and done a smoke test twice to detect vacuum leak but nothing.

With brake depressed rpm drops to about 650, which causes vibration but if I use the handbrake without the brakes, rpm is apprx 750.

Also, if I turn on the headlight, Wether brake is depressed or not rpm is stable at 750 because the engine is compensating for the extra load.

I have done a proper idle relearn procedure and I'm not sure what else to do.

Are either of you in Abuja?

Cc: Louiscars

Do you have a hand-held scanner?
Plug and read ECT when you hear the sound.

chillex8:
Do you have a hand-held scanner?
Plug and read ECT when you hear the sound.

I will do that the next time I drive and feed you back.

Greetings all,

My honda accord 09 instant acceleration is weak. I have to press the throttle gradually for like 5 seconds before acceleration picks.

They've checked plugs, ignition coils and injectors and they are okay but cylinder doesn't react as other cylinders when coil is removed. So they mentioned the engine will be opened to know the condition.

Please, in worst case scenario, how much is a tokunbo engine now for i4 accord 09?

Allboiz:
Greetings all,

My honda accord 09 instant acceleration is weak. I have to press the throttle gradually for like 5 seconds before acceleration picks.

They've checked plugs, ignition coils and injectors and they are okay but cylinder doesn't react as other cylinders when coil is removed. So they mentioned the engine will be opened to know the condition.

Please, in worst case scenario, how much is a tokunbo engine now for i4 accord 09?

What's the experience when you load the ac compressor?

chillex8:
What's the experience when you load the ac compressor?

Thanks for your response
Still working but the engine feels the load