₦airaland Forum

Louiscars:
For the TPMS ISSUE, most likely the TPMS that can with on or more of the alloy wheels is faulty
Give the car to a proper alignment shop/ better still a standard workshop that can check which wheel has an issue, for the steering light and vsc, run a scan and revert back sir

Doesn't use TPMS sensor on wheels. It uses speed wheel sensors.

zed7:
Doesn't use TPMS sensor on wheels. It uses speed wheel sensors.

Ohh I was actually referring to probable causes for the tpms light, and yes wheel speed sensors would cause your traction light and ABS come on

zed7:
My CRV 2014 is just 6 months old. Bought Tokunbor and had mechanics test it before buying.

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be the best of buy. When I bought it, it had no dashboard light. After a few weeks, 3 lights came up, VSC, TPMS and Electronic sterring light, all at the same time.

Changed a lot of parts on both front and back legs because of noises. Also changed fuel pump.

Now, after doing some repairs on the hub, ABS light has come up and AWD light.

Ive used so many Hondas and haven't had this much issues. Im disappointed, and one of the reasons I bought the car was the lack of any fault lights on the dashboard.

My 2014 accord is 4 years old and has no dashboard light. Apart from servicing, changing kick, changing break pads, changing of one fan, the car drives like a dream.

Just yesterday, the CRV had a hesitation while climbing a hilly road, something never noticed before and it's really upsetting.

The car i replaced this with was a 2006 civic and was used for 6 years without many issues. Is the CRV just a bad car or I was unlucky not to get one in good condition.

It's a known issue. If your abs is still working perfectly despite the warning light then it's what i am thinking.

Possible cause
1.) OLD BATTERY
2.) ABS MODULE.

If your battery is old, change it. If not, scan the car for abs related code and browse it, it will lead you to a known issue. This problem affects the 2013 honda accord and 2013-2015 crosstour.

chillex8:
Do you have a hand-held scanner?
Plug and read ECT when you hear the sound.

Took this screenshot immediately the first sound happened. It seems to get worse with temperature.

remi4ever:
Took this screenshot immediately the first sound happened. It seems to get worse with temperature.

Replace the engine thermostat.

Please what type of OBD II scanner are you using?

Kindly recommend

remi4ever:
Took this screenshot immediately the first sound happened. It seems to get worse with temperature.

Good Morning Gurus

Please I drive a Honda Accord 05, recently the gear started stalling when it wants to engage gear 2.

It drives freely on gear 1, but when it's supposed to switch to 2, it will keep raising and dragging no matter how I raise it. It won't enter maybe sometimes it will enter if I don't accelerate and again other times it will make a sound "gbim" before engaging on 2 and this will.make everything on the car to vibrate loud.

I first thought it's shortage or dirty Oil. I changed the oil and yet it's still behaving same way, at sometimes the D light starts blinking.

Please come to my aid.


Cc RyanAutomotive

tojahh:
Good Morning Gurus

Please I drive a Honda Accord 05, recently the gear started stalling when it wants to engage gear 2.

It drives freely on gear 1, but when it's supposed to switch to 2, it will keep raising and dragging no matter how I raise it. It won't enter maybe sometimes it will enter if I don't accelerate and again other times it will make a sound "gbim" before engaging on 2 and this will.make everything on the car to vibrate loud.

I first thought it's shortage or dirty Oil. I changed the oil and yet it's still behaving same way, at sometimes the D light starts blinking.

Please come to my aid.


Cc RyanAutomotive

Scan
Scan
Scan ... The culprit may be your solenoid valve abi na wetin dem dey call am , changed that stuff already on my EOD and it's been fine

oladele239:
Scan
Scan
Scan ... The culprit may be your solenoid valve abi na wetin dem dey call am , changed that stuff already on my EOD and it's been fine

Okay Boss. I will scan today and revert.

tojahh:
Okay Boss. I will scan today and revert.

Yeye
We await

tojahh:
Good Morning Gurus

Please I drive a Honda Accord 05, recently the gear started stalling when it wants to engage gear 2.

It drives freely on gear 1, but when it's supposed to switch to 2, it will keep raising and dragging no matter how I raise it. It won't enter maybe sometimes it will enter if I don't accelerate and again other times it will make a sound "gbim" before engaging on 2 and this will.make everything on the car to vibrate loud.

I first thought it's shortage or dirty Oil. I changed the oil and yet it's still behaving same way, at sometimes the D light starts blinking.

Please come to my aid.


Cc RyanAutomotive

morning boss,
Let’s break down your Honda Accord 2005 gear issue in a clear professional way so you understand exactly what’s going on and the proper fix.

⸻

🔧 TECHNICAL BREAKDOWN (DIAGNOSTIC INSIGHT)

1️⃣ What Your Symptoms Are Pointing To

Everything you described —
• High revving before entering gear 2
• Dragging / delayed upshift
• “Gbim” shock when it finally engages
• Vibration after engagement
• D light blinking
— are all classical signs of 2nd-gear clutch failure inside the Honda BAYA/BCLA transmission used in the 2003–2007 Accord.

When D starts blinking, the TCM (Transmission Control Module) has detected an internal pressure loss, clutch slip or failed shift solenoid.

⸻

2️⃣ Likely Causes (Ranked by Probability)

A. Worn 2nd Gear Clutch Pack / Burnt Clutches

The shock sound (“gbim”) and vibration are caused by the clutch pack struggling to hold pressure before suddenly locking in.
This happens after:
• Long-term driving with old ATF
• Heat damage
• Internal wear

B. Faulty Shift Solenoid (A/B) or Pressure Switch

When a solenoid controlling gear 2 becomes weak:
• It delays upshift
• Pressure fluctuates
• TCM starts blinking D

This is VERY common on Honda.

C. Failing Linear Solenoid / Pressure Regulator

This affects the whole hydraulic pressure system and can make gear 2 “hunt” before engaging.

D. Wrong ATF Used (Even If You Changed It)

Honda is extremely sensitive. Anything that is not ATF DW-1 or a perfect equivalent will make the transmission act up. But in your case, the symptoms show more than oil alone.

⸻

3️⃣ The Correct Fix (NOT Trial and Error)

✔️ Step 1 – Run a Full Honda Transmission Scan

Codes like:
• P0730
• P0756
• P0780
• Pressure switch codes
…will confirm what exactly is failing.

✔️ Step 2 – Physical Inspection

At Ryan Automotive Workshop we check:
• Solenoid pressure
• Line pressure readings
• Clutch engagement time
• Condition of ATF after change
• Mounts (vibration after shift may also add to the noise)

✔️ Step 3 – Actual Repair Based on Diagnosis

Depending on the findings:

If solenoid issue:

Replace shift solenoid A/B + pressure switches.

If clutch pack worn:

Full transmission overhaul (2nd gear clutch pack + steels, seals, gaskets).
This permanently solves the problem.

If both:

Complete rebuild + solenoids.

⸻

⚙️ RYAN AUTOMOTIVE WORKSHOP — PROFESSIONAL TAKE

We’ve handled this exact same issue on multiple Honda Accord 03–07 models, including:
• Accord 2.4
• Accord V6
• Acura TSX with same transmission

In almost every case with your symptoms:
• The 2nd gear clutch pack was already slipping,
• The solenoid controlling the shift had slowed down, and
• The D light confirmed internal pressure loss.

After a proper diagnostic + correcting the hydraulic and clutch issues, the cars returned to smooth shifting with no shock or vibration.

We don’t guess — we diagnose, confirm and fix.
And we’ll take up your car cleanly without stories or trial and error.

⸻

🧾 PROFESSIONAL SUMMARY

Your Honda Accord is experiencing a critical transmission issue, most likely a combination of:
• worn 2nd gear clutches, and/or
• weak shift solenoids.

Changing oil alone cannot fix it.
A proper Honda transmission scan + pressure test is required to know the exact failing part before repair.

⸻

🔍 ADDITIONAL REALITY CHECK (IMPORTANT FOR YOU TO KNOW)

Deep transmission repairs in Lagos/Nigeria generally come with three major challenges clients must be aware of:

1️⃣ Spare Parts Are Not Always Guaranteed

Critical parts like solenoids, clutch packs, linear solenoids, valves, pressure switches etc.
— are mostly sold used,
— rarely guaranteed,
— and sellers often do not allow buying piece-by-piece, especially for Honda transmissions.

2️⃣ Technical Know-How Varies Widely

Many workshops attempt Honda transmission repair without:
• the needed diagnostic equipment,
• hydraulic pressure tools,
• or proper rebuild procedures.

Which is why many repairs fail after 1 week or 1 month.
(But we are professionals and don’t fall into this category).

3️⃣ To Give a Customer Warranty, the Best Option Is Full Replacement

When a proper computerized scan and diagnosis confirms the transmission is critically worn,
the best long-term option is:

✅ Replace the entire transmission assembly (Tokunbo complete unit)

This allows us to:
• give actual guarantee,
• restore factory shift quality,
• and remove the stress of uncertain part quality.

This is the cleanest, safest, most assured solution if the internal damage is deep.

⸻

Ryan Automotive Limited

Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Transmission Experts • Genuine Parts & Cooling Division
📍 Lagos, Nigeria
📞 Contact via profile/signature
Ryan Automotive Workshop Division

chillex8:
Replace the engine thermostat.

I have one that came with the engine. Please, can you tell me why you think the thermostat is the issue?? Since there's no overheating issue?

remi4ever:
I have one that came with the engine. Please, can you tell me why you think the thermostat is the issue?? Since there's no overheating issue?

Snap and post the other one u have .

The thermostat you have is not opening properly to evenly cool the entire system.

Replace it, bleed the cooling system with coolant and you'll be good.

zed7:
The car came with wheel covers and not alloy wheels. I changed to alloy wheels, though same size, I didn't go for bigger tyres. Im wondering if that is the cause of the TPMS sensor, Electronic Sterring light and VSC light coming up at once.

Any car that has TPMS has a sensor in the valve of every original wheel. If you want to replace the original wheels, you must transfer the valves to the new wheels. If not, then you have lost the sensors and your TPMS light will be on forever unless you find a way to get them back.

chillex8:
Snap and post the other one u have .

The thermostat you have is not opening properly to evenly cool the entire system.

Replace it, bleed the cooling system with coolant and you'll be good.

Good morning sir. This is the one that came with the new engine, I tested it back then with hot water and it works. I'll install it this morning but won't be driving out till next week. When I test I'll feed y'all back.

remi4ever:
Good morning sir. This is the one that came with the new engine, I tested it back then with hot water and it works. I'll install it this morning but won't be driving out till next week. When I test I'll feed y'all back.

Good morning. This looks good

Hope you know how install the thermostat and bleed the coolant ?
Bleed from radiator cap only. It's the fastest way to get most of the air bubbles out.

Lastly , confirm your Cooling fans cycle ON steadily @ about 93-96 degrees Celsius W/O AC...

Macmilla:
Any car that has TPMS has a sensor in the valve of every original wheel. If you want to replace the original wheels, you must transfer the valves to the new wheels. If not, then you have lost the sensors and your TPMS light will be on forever unless you find a way to get them back.

Don't generalize. 2014 CRV and some other cars don't have their sensors on the wheel that can be transferred, like that of the 2007 Camry. They use what is called a wheel speed sensor. It's not present directly on the wheels of the car.

chillex8:
Good morning. This looks good

Hope you know how install the thermostat and bleed the coolant ?
Bleed from radiator cap only. It's the fastest way to get most of the air bubbles out.

Lastly , confirm your Cooling fans cycle ON steadily @ about 93-96 degrees Celsius W/O AC...

Yeah, I can. Thank you, i will test drive and see if that fixes the issue. So you are saying that the sound produced is coming from the engine? The same sound on before i replaced the engine.

zed7:
Don't generalize. 2014 CRV and some other cars don't have their sensors on the wheel that can be transferred, like that of the 2007 Camry. They use what is called a wheel speed sensor. It's not present directly on the wheels of the car.

Really?

How is it possible for a sensor not to be attached to the wheel and it will monitor the tyre pressure?

Not wheel speed o

Thefarmer3:
Really?

How is it possible for a sensor not to be attached to the wheel and it will monitor the tyre pressure?

Not wheel speed o

indirect TPMS systems use existing ABS wheel speed sensors to indirectly detect low pressure by noticing that an underinflated tire rotates faster than a properly inflated one. A vehicle's computer compares the rotational speeds of all four wheels, and if one tire is spinning faster, it is calculated to be underinflated.

With Internet and AI, you don't need to ask all these questions. A simple search will answer you.

@chillex8
@oladele
@ryanautomative


This is the code that was displayed when I scanned it.

tojahh:
@chillex8
@oladele
@ryanautomative


This is the code that was displayed when I scanned it.

Check wiring to shift solenoid A (the solenoid with 2 big heads)
If fine, remove solenoid and clean.
Clear code and drive like a spirit.

If it comes back on, replace solenoid and repeat cycle.

If symptoms don't resolve, replace transmission.

zed7:
Don't generalize. 2014 CRV and some other cars don't have their sensors on the wheel that can be transferred, like that of the 2007 Camry. They use what is called a wheel speed sensor. It's not present directly on the wheels of the car.

Yes, you are actually right. They are known as indirect TPMS. They use the abs sensor to check the tire speed.

remi4ever:
Yeah, I can. Thank you, i will test drive and see if that fixes the issue. So you are saying that the sound produced is coming from the engine? The same sound on before i replaced the engine.

The sound is coming from your transmission.

remi4ever:
Thank you for your response. I made that comment a day after changing the engine.

Apparently there was a vacuum leak that made the rpm idle at 800+ after the engine was changed. So I had the hose connected properly.

Something tells me that the sounds is from the transmission. It is intermittent not all the time and it only happens when engine has warmed up.

Two mechanics have said that the gasket is metallic and it's somehow grinding Bla bla bla.. I cannot make sense out of it to be honest.

The second issue is, I still have this low rpm when engine is warm and brake is depressed. I have checked for vacuum leak on the brake booster and done a smoke test twice to detect vacuum leak but nothing.

With brake depressed rpm drops to about 650, which causes vibration but if I use the handbrake without the brakes, rpm is apprx 750.

Also, if I turn on the headlight, Wether brake is depressed or not rpm is stable at 750 because the engine is compensating for the extra load.

I have done a proper idle relearn procedure and I'm not sure what else to do.

Are either of you in Abuja?

Cc: Louiscars

Let me address the second issue.
Nothing is wrong with your brakes. If the booster is leaking vacuum, you will hear a hissing sound, and your idle will be high

Idling @ 650 W/O ac is perfect .

chillex8:
Let me address the second issue.
Nothing is wrong with your brakes. If the booster is leaking vacuum, you will hear a hissing sound, and your idle will be high

Idling @ 650 W/O ac is perfect .

Thank you. My mounts are good why vibration then??

chillex8:
The sound is coming from your transmission.

I thought so too.. I've always topped my oil and I always use total mlvl, I don't compromise on the oil quality.. I'm not sure where I went wrong.

remi4ever:
I thought so too.. I've always topped my oil and I always use total mlvl, I don't compromise on the oil quality.. I'm not sure where I went wrong.

That oil too good. I started using it when it was ₦6k/ltr but them don make am too expensive for me. Na pure guard I dey use now

remi4ever:
Thank you. My mounts are good why vibration then??

You can look up my contact in my signature and let's chat at your convenience.
Need to observe some live data.

sandammy:
That oil too good. I started using it when it was ₦6k/ltr but them don make am too expensive for me. Na pure guard I dey use now

Bro, I don't use anything else o. I bought it last week for 13.5k at Berger, Abuja.

I also started buying at 8500. Is pure guard good too? I doubt it quality will be up total's MLVL.

remi4ever:
Bro, I don't use anything else o. I bought it last week for 13.5k at Berger, Abuja.

I also started buying at 8500. Is pure guard good too? I doubt it quality will be up total's MLVL.

This MLVL is it a transmission oil or or normal engine synthetic oil? I tried looking it up on Google but nothing came up. Please help with the full name. Thanks

Cryomancer:
This MLVL is it a transmission oil or or normal engine synthetic oil? I tried looking it up on Google but nothing came up. Please help with the full name. Thanks

Transmission oil, works for a range of cars including Honda.

Total mlvl is the name. I've never seen the 4L before just the 1L so I usually buy 4.