₦airaland Forum

Good morning car gurus and compliment of the season. I have an issue with my Camry 2012 se v6. I notice that my coolant reservoir level increase(from Low to Full level) when the car is running and I see like bubbles or boiling in the reservoir. Temperature does not go beyond half on the dash board at Al times but right now have a cylinder 5 misfire cylinder detected error code(p0305) after scanning. When the car is a little bit
Warm and I tried to open the radiator cap I feel like a pressure returning to the coolant reservoir tank. However, when the car is cold the coolant reservoir level goes empty(I top up both radiator and coolant everyday)and no traces of coolant leak on the floor or on the water pump(water pump is still intact and no leak, no noise, no abnormal movement). Repair done- replaced the radiator cap with OEM cap, bought OEM new thermostat, water hose inspected no leak anywhere, radiator fans are working perfectly well. Please could someone provide me with an answer

dare01:
Good morning car gurus and compliment of the season. I have an issue with my Camry 2012 se v6. I notice that my coolant reservoir level increase(from Low to Full level) when the car is running and I see like bubbles or boiling in the reservoir. Temperature does not go beyond half on the dash board at Al times but right now have a cylinder 5 misfire cylinder detected error code(p0305) after scanning. When the car is a little bit
Warm and I tried to open the radiator cap I feel like a pressure returning to the coolant reservoir tank. However, when the car is cold the coolant reservoir level goes empty(I top up both radiator and coolant everyday)and no traces of coolant leak on the floor or on the water pump(water pump is still intact and no leak, no noise, no abnormal movement). Repair done- replaced the radiator cap with OEM cap, bought OEM new thermostat, water hose inspected no leak anywhere, radiator fans are working perfectly well. Please could someone provide me with an answer

Good afternoon sir,

Thank you for explaining the situation in detail. Based on your description — coolant reservoir level rising with bubbling while the engine is running, coolant disappearing when cold with no external leaks, pressure pushing back into the reservoir, and a P0305 (Cylinder 5 misfire) — this combination is not a normal cooling system behavior for a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 (2GR-FE), even though the temperature gauge appears normal.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Combustion Gas Entering the Cooling System (Most Likely Root Cause)
The bubbling/“boiling” in the reservoir while driving, pressure buildup, and coolant being pushed out — without overheating on the gauge — strongly suggest combustion gases leaking into the cooling system.
This typically points to:
• Early-stage head gasket seepage
• Cylinder head sealing issue around Cylinder 5

Modern Toyota engines can still show normal gauge readings while internal pressure is already abnormal.

⸻

2️⃣ Direct Link Between P0305 Misfire & Coolant Behavior
Cylinder 5 misfire appearing alongside coolant pressurization is a major red flag. Possible scenarios:
• Coolant vapor entering the combustion chamber intermittently
• Compression loss in Cylinder 5 affecting combustion
• Spark plug contamination (coolant residue causes misfire before visible smoke appears)

This is why the fault shows up before obvious overheating or white smoke.

⸻

3️⃣ Cooling System Pressure Acting Abnormally
Feeling pressure return to the reservoir when opening the radiator cap (even slightly warm) indicates:
• Pressure is being generated internally, not just from heat
• Thermostat, radiator cap, and fans are not the primary issue (you’ve already ruled these out correctly)

⸻

4️⃣ Why No External Leak Is Seen
Internal leaks do not drip on the floor. Coolant is:
• Burned inside the cylinder
• Pushed into the overflow and later sucked back empty when cold
This explains daily top-ups with no visible leaks.

⸻

5️⃣ Why the Temperature Gauge Still Looks “Normal”
Toyota gauges are damped (buffered). By the time the needle rises above half:
• Internal damage is already advanced
So the gauge alone is not a reliable indicator in this case.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

At this stage, this is no longer a trial-and-error cooling repair. Replacing caps, thermostats, or hoses further will not solve an internal pressure fault.

This is a mechanical diagnosis issue, not a parts issue.

Continuing to drive or repeatedly topping coolant without confirmation risks:
• Warped cylinder head
• Catalytic converter damage
• Complete head gasket failure

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Correct Next Steps

Proper diagnosis must include:
• ✔️ Combustion gas (block) test on coolant
• ✔️ Cooling system pressure test (engine off & running)
• ✔️ Cylinder leak-down test (especially Cylinder 5)
• ✔️ Spark plug inspection for coolant trace
• ✔️ Borescope inspection if available

Only after these tests can we confirm:
• Head gasket seepage
• Head crack (less common)
• Or localized sealing failure

Diagnosis must come before engine dismantling — not guesswork.

📍 Clients come to us from different locations — distance is never a barrier when it comes to getting the job done right.

If you want this checked professionally and conclusively, DM Ryan Automotive Limited for proper inspection and expert guidance.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Cooling Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

dare01:
Good morning car gurus and compliment of the season. I have an issue with my Camry 2012 se v6. I notice that my coolant reservoir level increase(from Low to Full level) when the car is running and I see like bubbles or boiling in the reservoir. Temperature does not go beyond half on the dash board at Al times but right now have a cylinder 5 misfire cylinder detected error code(p0305) after scanning. When the car is a little bit
Warm and I tried to open the radiator cap I feel like a pressure returning to the coolant reservoir tank. However, when the car is cold the coolant reservoir level goes empty(I top up both radiator and coolant everyday)and no traces of coolant leak on the floor or on the water pump(water pump is still intact and no leak, no noise, no abnormal movement). Repair done- replaced the radiator cap with OEM cap, bought OEM new thermostat, water hose inspected no leak anywhere, radiator fans are working perfectly well. Please could someone provide me with an answer

have you experience overheating issue before on the car?
You might have head gasket issue.
Need to do cylinder drop test to be sure.

Abbeyismo:
have you experience overheating issue before on the car?
You might have head gasket issue.
Need to do cylinder drop test to be sure.

I almost had one when my temperature gauge went above the middle a little. This was as a result of a failing radiator fans but i notices on time and shut down the AC and the temp went back to the middle line until I got to the mechanic . This happen last year January no gasket issue or damage done.

RyanAutomotive:
Good afternoon sir,

Thank you for explaining the situation in detail. Based on your description — coolant reservoir level rising with bubbling while the engine is running, coolant disappearing when cold with no external leaks, pressure pushing back into the reservoir, and a P0305 (Cylinder 5 misfire) — this combination is not a normal cooling system behavior for a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 (2GR-FE), even though the temperature gauge appears normal.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Combustion Gas Entering the Cooling System (Most Likely Root Cause)
The bubbling/“boiling” in the reservoir while driving, pressure buildup, and coolant being pushed out — without overheating on the gauge — strongly suggest combustion gases leaking into the cooling system.
This typically points to:
• Early-stage head gasket seepage
• Cylinder head sealing issue around Cylinder 5

Modern Toyota engines can still show normal gauge readings while internal pressure is already abnormal.

⸻

2️⃣ Direct Link Between P0305 Misfire & Coolant Behavior
Cylinder 5 misfire appearing alongside coolant pressurization is a major red flag. Possible scenarios:
• Coolant vapor entering the combustion chamber intermittently
• Compression loss in Cylinder 5 affecting combustion
• Spark plug contamination (coolant residue causes misfire before visible smoke appears)

This is why the fault shows up before obvious overheating or white smoke.

⸻

3️⃣ Cooling System Pressure Acting Abnormally
Feeling pressure return to the reservoir when opening the radiator cap (even slightly warm) indicates:
• Pressure is being generated internally, not just from heat
• Thermostat, radiator cap, and fans are not the primary issue (you’ve already ruled these out correctly)

⸻

4️⃣ Why No External Leak Is Seen
Internal leaks do not drip on the floor. Coolant is:
• Burned inside the cylinder
• Pushed into the overflow and later sucked back empty when cold
This explains daily top-ups with no visible leaks.

⸻

5️⃣ Why the Temperature Gauge Still Looks “Normal”
Toyota gauges are damped (buffered). By the time the needle rises above half:
• Internal damage is already advanced
So the gauge alone is not a reliable indicator in this case.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

At this stage, this is no longer a trial-and-error cooling repair. Replacing caps, thermostats, or hoses further will not solve an internal pressure fault.

This is a mechanical diagnosis issue, not a parts issue.

Continuing to drive or repeatedly topping coolant without confirmation risks:
• Warped cylinder head
• Catalytic converter damage
• Complete head gasket failure

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Correct Next Steps

Proper diagnosis must include:
• ✔️ Combustion gas (block) test on coolant
• ✔️ Cooling system pressure test (engine off & running)
• ✔️ Cylinder leak-down test (especially Cylinder 5)
• ✔️ Spark plug inspection for coolant trace
• ✔️ Borescope inspection if available

Only after these tests can we confirm:
• Head gasket seepage
• Head crack (less common)
• Or localized sealing failure

Diagnosis must come before engine dismantling — not guesswork.

📍 Clients come to us from different locations — distance is never a barrier when it comes to getting the job done right.

If you want this checked professionally and conclusively, DM Ryan Automotive Limited for proper inspection and expert guidance.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Professional Auto Diagnostics • Engine & Cooling Systems
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

Thank you. This is well detailed

dare01:
Good morning car gurus and compliment of the season. I have an issue with my Camry 2012 se v6. I notice that my coolant reservoir level increase(from Low to Full level) when the car is running and I see like bubbles or boiling in the reservoir. Temperature does not go beyond half on the dash board at Al times but right now have a cylinder 5 misfire cylinder detected error code(p0305) after scanning. When the car is a little bit
Warm and I tried to open the radiator cap I feel like a pressure returning to the coolant reservoir tank. However, when the car is cold the coolant reservoir level goes empty(I top up both radiator and coolant everyday)and no traces of coolant leak on the floor or on the water pump(water pump is still intact and no leak, no noise, no abnormal movement). Repair done- replaced the radiator cap with OEM cap, bought OEM new thermostat, water hose inspected no leak anywhere, radiator fans are working perfectly well. Please could someone provide me with an answer

If the car is warm up before you open the radiator cap it will surely push up pressure because the engine is just building up pressure.and ones it cold the engine will take back from reservoir to replace the ones that pop out.
Solve the cylinder 5 misfire
Plug ur scanner and leave the car running check for live scan and observe the temperature reading ones the fan comes on and went off allow the engine cool down then open the cap and see if it will push out pressure or not. allow the engine to cool I mean very cool before opening.

Please car gurus recommend the best car air freshener you have used. All the once I buy are not good.

noble71:
Please car gurus recommend the best car air freshener you have used. All the once I buy are not good.

I use Dove soap. Just find all these expensive bar soap perforate the pack and you have a nice fragrance for months

Grupo:
Good. So I was right about it being related to the torque converter.

I remember I read on some foreign forums that adding some special oils to the transmission could fix it.

Where did you buy the lube guard?

Bought it from someone here on nairaland, search Lubegard here on nairaland you will see it

nurey:
I use Dove soap. Just find all these expensive bar soap perforate the pack and you have a nice fragrance for months

wow! I will try it.

Hello everyone, please I need advice. I drive a Hyundai Elantra 2010 (automatic). When I bought the car, the gear oil was very low, so my mechanic topped it up with about 4 litres. The car drove fine initially, but it sometimes struggles to downshift when going uphill.

I don’t drive the car often. About 6 months later, the mechanic checked again and discovered the gear oil had reduced significantly, so we topped it up with about 2 litres. Unfortunately, within one week all the oil leaked out.

I then called another mechanic who changed the oil seal, drained the remaining oil, and refilled with 4 litres again. Now, just over one month later, the gear oil is low again, the ride is no longer smooth, and the issues persist:

Poor/downshift issues
Delayed gear engagement
When I change gears, it takes about 3 seconds before it reflects on the dashboard

I’ve also scanned the car before and got a transmission error code related to a solenoid.
I stay around the Ojodu Berger, Alagbole axis, and I’m honestly scared to drive the car so the gearbox doesn’t pack up completely.
Please, what I do next? I need a good gear specialist that can fix this issue

godofspeed:
Hello everyone, please I need advice. I drive a Hyundai Elantra 2010 (automatic). When I bought the car, the gear oil was very low, so my mechanic topped it up with about 4 litres. The car drove fine initially, but it sometimes struggles to downshift when going uphill.

I don’t drive the car often. About 6 months later, the mechanic checked again and discovered the gear oil had reduced significantly, so we topped it up with about 2 litres. Unfortunately, within one week all the oil leaked out.

I then called another mechanic who changed the oil seal, drained the remaining oil, and refilled with 4 litres again. Now, just over one month later, the gear oil is low again, the ride is no longer smooth, and the issues persist:

Poor/downshift issues
Delayed gear engagement
When I change gears, it takes about 3 seconds before it reflects on the dashboard

I’ve also scanned the car before and got a transmission error code related to a solenoid.
I stay around the Ojodu Berger, Alagbole axis, and I’m honestly scared to drive the car so the gearbox doesn’t pack up completely.
Please, what I do next? I need a good gear specialist that can fix this issue

Good Morning sir,

Thank you for explaining the situation clearly. For a Hyundai Elantra 2010 (Automatic), the symptoms you listed — chronic ATF loss, harsh/slow downshifts, delayed engagement, and solenoid-related fault code — show that this is no longer a simple “top-up and continue driving” issue.

Your transmission is losing hydraulic pressure, and the car is protecting itself from further damage.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Persistent ATF Leak — Not Properly Fixed
Replacing a single seal without confirming the true leak source is why the fluid keeps disappearing.
Likely leak points include:
• Driveshaft oil seal(s)
• Transmission cooler lines
• Front pump seal
• Transmission pan gasket / O-ring
• Differential side seals

If ATF keeps dropping → pressure drops → shifting fails.

⸻

2️⃣ Low ATF = Low Pressure = Delayed Engagement
The 3-second delay before gear shows on the dashboard means:
• Solenoids are waiting for hydraulic pressure
• Internal clutch packs are slipping
• TCM detects internal pressure loss

Driving in this state can burn the clutches — leading to full gearbox overhaul.

⸻

3️⃣ Struggling to Downshift on Hills
This is usually due to:
• Worn shift solenoids
• Valve body contamination
• Weak pressure from pump (due to low fluid)

Every time the fluid leaks and you drive → more internal wear occurs.

⸻

4️⃣ Solenoid Fault Code Already Detected
This tells us:
• Electrical + hydraulic control is affected
• The valve body needs proper inspection & pressure test
Just clearing codes or topping oil will never fix the root issue.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

This is now a Transmission Diagnosis Case, not a “change seal and hope for the best” situation.
Before any major work, you need a complete leak-trace and hydraulic test, including:

✔️ Full underside leak inspection (engine running)
✔️ Transmission cooler & hose pressure check
✔️ Valve body test + solenoid electrically and hydraulically verified
✔️ ATF level set to factory specification — not guesswork
✔️ Adaptation reset after fix

Once the leak point is permanently corrected and hydraulic pressure restored, your shifting symptoms will improve.

Trying multiple topping-ups or random part replacement will only rush the gearbox to failure.

⸻

📌 Important Note
Avoid driving long distances until properly inspected — low ATF = gearbox damage.

⸻

📍 We specialize in transmission diagnostics and clients travel to us from different parts of Lagos — distance is never a barrier to getting the job done right.

If you are ready, kindly send us a DM and we will guide you with:
• Clear findings
• Transparent cost
• Professional, lasting repair strategy

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Transmission Specialists
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

RyanAutomotive:
Good Morning sir,

Thank you for explaining the situation clearly. For a Hyundai Elantra 2010 (Automatic), the symptoms you listed — chronic ATF loss, harsh/slow downshifts, delayed engagement, and solenoid-related fault code — show that this is no longer a simple “top-up and continue driving” issue.

Your transmission is losing hydraulic pressure, and the car is protecting itself from further damage.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ Persistent ATF Leak — Not Properly Fixed
Replacing a single seal without confirming the true leak source is why the fluid keeps disappearing.
Likely leak points include:
• Driveshaft oil seal(s)
• Transmission cooler lines
• Front pump seal
• Transmission pan gasket / O-ring
• Differential side seals

If ATF keeps dropping → pressure drops → shifting fails.

⸻

2️⃣ Low ATF = Low Pressure = Delayed Engagement
The 3-second delay before gear shows on the dashboard means:
• Solenoids are waiting for hydraulic pressure
• Internal clutch packs are slipping
• TCM detects internal pressure loss

Driving in this state can burn the clutches — leading to full gearbox overhaul.

⸻

3️⃣ Struggling to Downshift on Hills
This is usually due to:
• Worn shift solenoids
• Valve body contamination
• Weak pressure from pump (due to low fluid)

Every time the fluid leaks and you drive → more internal wear occurs.

⸻

4️⃣ Solenoid Fault Code Already Detected
This tells us:
• Electrical + hydraulic control is affected
• The valve body needs proper inspection & pressure test
Just clearing codes or topping oil will never fix the root issue.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

This is now a Transmission Diagnosis Case, not a “change seal and hope for the best” situation.
Before any major work, you need a complete leak-trace and hydraulic test, including:

✔️ Full underside leak inspection (engine running)
✔️ Transmission cooler & hose pressure check
✔️ Valve body test + solenoid electrically and hydraulically verified
✔️ ATF level set to factory specification — not guesswork
✔️ Adaptation reset after fix

Once the leak point is permanently corrected and hydraulic pressure restored, your shifting symptoms will improve.

Trying multiple topping-ups or random part replacement will only rush the gearbox to failure.

⸻

📌 Important Note
Avoid driving long distances until properly inspected — low ATF = gearbox damage.

⸻

📍 We specialize in transmission diagnostics and clients travel to us from different parts of Lagos — distance is never a barrier to getting the job done right.

If you are ready, kindly send us a DM and we will guide you with:
• Clear findings
• Transparent cost
• Professional, lasting repair strategy

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Transmission Specialists
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

Alright thank you Chief

Good evening house. I am experiencing a sluggish acceleration on my Mercedes Benz w203. It sometimes jerk during acceleration. When I release my foot from acceleration, it slows down by itself almost immediately.
I also experience a sway movement from the back of the car making it look like I want to lose control of the car. Please what might be the issue?

jinx14:
Good evening house. I am experiencing a sluggish acceleration on my Mercedes Benz w203. It sometimes jerk during acceleration. When I release my foot from acceleration, it slows down by itself almost immediately.
I also experience a sway movement from the back of the car making it look like I want to lose control of the car. Please what might be the issue?

Good evening sir,

Thank you for reaching out. We appreciate your detailed explanation — but for future posts please always include full vehicle details (Model + Year + Engine type + Trim if possible).
Example: Mercedes-Benz C-Class W203 — 2005 C240 V6 (Automatic)
This helps with precise diagnosis because the W203 came with different engines and suspension configurations.

That said, based on the symptoms you described:

• Sluggish acceleration
• Jerking during acceleration
• Vehicle slowing down quickly when you release the throttle
• Rear-end sway / instability while driving

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight — Mercedes-Benz W203

From your description, you are dealing with a combination of drivetrain + suspension issues. Let’s break down the likely causes:

⸻

1️⃣ Sluggish Acceleration & Jerking

This indicates possible drivetrain/engine performance issues:

Common W203 Causes:
• MAF Sensor malfunction (very common on Mercedes)
• Throttle body adaptation fault
• Transmission in “limp” mode due to a stored error
• Fuel delivery issue (weak pump, clogged filter)
• Worn engine mounts causing drivetrain shock during shifts
• Faulty wheel speed sensor affecting gear response

A live data scan is required — Mercedes faults don’t always show check-engine lights immediately.

⸻

2️⃣ Rapid Deceleration When Foot Is Off Throttle

This behavior suggests dragging or binding somewhere:

Possible causes:
• Rear brake calipers sticking
• Differential internal binding
• Faulty ABS/ESP sensor causing stability system to apply brakes
• Worn or seized wheel bearing
• Transmission torque converter not disengaging properly

⸻

3️⃣ Rear Sway & Loss of Stability

This is a serious safety symptom and strongly points to worn suspension components:

Top suspects on W203 rear suspension:
• Rear control arm bushings worn out
• Rear subframe bushings cracked / detached (common on older Benz)
• Rear stabilizer (anti-roll) bar links loose
• Bad rear shocks causing body roll & lane “pulling”
• Tire pressure or uneven tire wear worsening the effect

Rear-end instability can quickly lead to loss of control on Lagos roads — it must be attended to urgently.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop — Professional Take

Your vehicle is giving you both performance and handling warnings at the same time.
Driving it this way puts you at risk of:

• Sudden rear traction loss (skid/spin)
• Increased braking distance
• More expensive drivetrain damage if faults escalate

This is not a single-part guesswork repair.
We need a complete drivetrain + suspension diagnostic check.

⸻

📌 What We Recommend (Next Steps)

Bring the car in for:

✔️ Full Mercedes-Benz scan with live data
✔️ Rear suspension inspection (arms, bushings, shocks, subframe)
✔️ Brake drag test on all wheels
✔️ MAF + Fuel system performance test
✔️ Wheel alignment + tire condition review

With these results, we can pinpoint the exact root causes — quickly and accurately.

⸻

📍 Distance is never a barrier — clients come to Ryan Automotive Limited from different locations for quality work and peace of mind.

If you want a proper, transparent diagnosis without trial-and-error spending, feel free to contact us anytime.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision • Transparency • Excellence
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Suspension • Driveability Experts
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

We’re always here to help you keep your Mercedes performing the way it was built to. 🚘✨

RyanAutomotive:
Good evening sir,

Thank you for reaching out. We appreciate your detailed explanation — but for future posts please always include full vehicle details (Model + Year + Engine type + Trim if possible).
Example: Mercedes-Benz C-Class W203 — 2005 C240 V6 (Automatic)
This helps with precise diagnosis because the W203 came with different engines and suspension configurations.

That said, based on the symptoms you described:

• Sluggish acceleration
• Jerking during acceleration
• Vehicle slowing down quickly when you release the throttle
• Rear-end sway / instability while driving

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight — Mercedes-Benz W203

From your description, you are dealing with a combination of drivetrain + suspension issues. Let’s break down the likely causes:

⸻

1️⃣ Sluggish Acceleration & Jerking

This indicates possible drivetrain/engine performance issues:

Common W203 Causes:
• MAF Sensor malfunction (very common on Mercedes)
• Throttle body adaptation fault
• Transmission in “limp” mode due to a stored error
• Fuel delivery issue (weak pump, clogged filter)
• Worn engine mounts causing drivetrain shock during shifts
• Faulty wheel speed sensor affecting gear response

A live data scan is required — Mercedes faults don’t always show check-engine lights immediately.

⸻

2️⃣ Rapid Deceleration When Foot Is Off Throttle

This behavior suggests dragging or binding somewhere:

Possible causes:
• Rear brake calipers sticking
• Differential internal binding
• Faulty ABS/ESP sensor causing stability system to apply brakes
• Worn or seized wheel bearing
• Transmission torque converter not disengaging properly

⸻

3️⃣ Rear Sway & Loss of Stability

This is a serious safety symptom and strongly points to worn suspension components:

Top suspects on W203 rear suspension:
• Rear control arm bushings worn out
• Rear subframe bushings cracked / detached (common on older Benz)
• Rear stabilizer (anti-roll) bar links loose
• Bad rear shocks causing body roll & lane “pulling”
• Tire pressure or uneven tire wear worsening the effect

Rear-end instability can quickly lead to loss of control on Lagos roads — it must be attended to urgently.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop — Professional Take

Your vehicle is giving you both performance and handling warnings at the same time.
Driving it this way puts you at risk of:

• Sudden rear traction loss (skid/spin)
• Increased braking distance
• More expensive drivetrain damage if faults escalate

This is not a single-part guesswork repair.
We need a complete drivetrain + suspension diagnostic check.

⸻

📌 What We Recommend (Next Steps)

Bring the car in for:

✔️ Full Mercedes-Benz scan with live data
✔️ Rear suspension inspection (arms, bushings, shocks, subframe)
✔️ Brake drag test on all wheels
✔️ MAF + Fuel system performance test
✔️ Wheel alignment + tire condition review

With these results, we can pinpoint the exact root causes — quickly and accurately.

⸻

📍 Distance is never a barrier — clients come to Ryan Automotive Limited from different locations for quality work and peace of mind.

If you want a proper, transparent diagnosis without trial-and-error spending, feel free to contact us anytime.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision • Transparency • Excellence
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Suspension • Driveability Experts
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

We’re always here to help you keep your Mercedes performing the way it was built to. 🚘✨

Thank you for your reply
I drive a Mercedes Benz C-Class 320 2002 V6 automatic

y

Hi, guys, while traveling home for Christmas 3 days ago, I noticed that my temperature gauge was high, and water spilled from the reservoir onto my side mirror. I parked and opened the bonnet, and the reservoir was vibrating excessively. No spills from the radiator. I left it to cool down for 30 minutes and started it again, and the temp gauge went back to the middle. I drove it for 5 minutes, and it went back up. I found an auto electrician, and he said the fan has low pressure and suggested that I connect it directly, which he did. I was able to continue my journey without any overheating issues.

Now, my question is, should I continue using the car like that? What should I do differently? I bought the car 3 years ago, foreign used, and everything is still intact.

The car model is ES 300, 2003.

Meklex:
Hi, guys, while traveling home for Christmas 3 days ago, I noticed that my temperature gauge was high, and water spilled from the reservoir onto my side mirror. I parked and opened the bonnet, and the reservoir was vibrating excessively. No spills from the radiator. I left it to cool down for 30 minutes and started it again, and the temp gauge went back to the middle. I drove it for 5 minutes, and it went back up. I found an auto electrician, and he said the fan has low pressure and suggested that I connect it directly, which he did. I was able to continue my journey without any overheating issues.

Now, my question is, should I continue using the car like that? What should I do differently? I bought the car 3 years ago, foreign used, and everything is still intact.

The car model is ES 300, 2003.

If fan "pressure" was low how did connecting the fan directly temporarily fixed your issue? If you don't have a stuck thermostat and your fan was spinning, then a proper examination is needed, take it to a mechanic, your fan has been connected directly and your car will not reach optimum operating temperature quickly or at all, especially if you don't always drive with the AC or you do lots of highway driving.

Meklex:
Hi, guys, while traveling home for Christmas 3 days ago, I noticed that my temperature gauge was high, and water spilled from the reservoir onto my side mirror. I parked and opened the bonnet, and the reservoir was vibrating excessively. No spills from the radiator. I left it to cool down for 30 minutes and started it again, and the temp gauge went back to the middle. I drove it for 5 minutes, and it went back up. I found an auto electrician, and he said the fan has low pressure and suggested that I connect it directly, which he did. I was able to continue my journey without any overheating issues.

Now, my question is, should I continue using the car like that? What should I do differently? I bought the car 3 years ago, foreign used, and everything is still intact.

The car model is ES 300, 2003.

Good afternoon sir,

Thank you for explaining everything clearly. For a 2003 Lexus ES300 (1MZ-FE V6), the symptoms you experienced — temperature rising, coolant bubbling from the reservoir, and overheating solved only when the fan was directly connected — show that the fan control system is not operating properly, not the fan itself.

The direct connection was only an emergency bypass to get you home safely.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ ECU-Controlled Fan System Disabled
Your fans are originally designed to:
• Run at low speed when engine warms up
• Switch to high speed when AC or coolant temp gets high

Since the technician bypassed the relay/sensor control:
✔️ fan now runs continuously
✖️ ECU can no longer manage cooling intelligently

This is a temporary workaround, not a solution.

⸻

2️⃣ Bubbling & Reservoir Overflow
This means coolant pressure built up beyond normal.
Possible reasons:
• Cooling fans didn’t kick in early enough
• Radiator cap weak (can’t hold pressure)
• Air trapped in cooling system after boil-over

Even though your radiator didn’t spill, the reservoir is the safety exit for pressure.

⸻

3️⃣ Overheating Will Return Later if Not Correctly Fixed
Driving long-term with direct fan connection can cause:
• High alternator load
• Fan motor early failure
• Incorrect warm-up temperature
• Higher fuel consumption

ECU needs correct signals to protect the engine.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

The root cause must be identified properly — not bypassed.

Most likely faults to check:
• ✔️ Cooling fan relays (2-stage control)
• ✔️ Engine coolant temperature sensor
• ✔️ Fan resistor / fan control module
• ✔️ Radiator cap pressure test
• ✔️ Air bleeding from cooling system

Once the correct component is replaced and the system bled:
• Fan will return to normal 2-speed control based on temperature/AC
• No more random overheating under load or in traffic

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Next Steps

You should not continue permanently with direct fan wiring.
It was useful as a temporary rescue, but a proper diagnosis is required to prevent:
• Thermostat failure
• Cylinder head gasket stress
• AC performance drop
• Unexpected overheating in traffic

Let an experienced technician test the cooling control circuit and restore it to factory operation.

⸻

📍 We handle advanced cooling system diagnostics and clients travel from different parts of Lagos and beyond — distance is never a barrier to getting the correct fix.

If you want us to inspect and restore everything professionally, kindly send us a DM.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Engine Cooling Specialists
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

Babatundehy:
If fan "pressure" was low how did connecting the fan directly temporarily fixed your issue? If you don't have a stuck thermostat and your fan was spinning, then a proper examination is needed, take it to a mechanic, your fan has been connected directly and your car will not reach optimum operating temperature quickly or at all, especially if you don't always drive with the AC or you do lots of highway driving.

The fan pressure increased by 100% when he connected it directly. He added something he called relay.

RyanAutomotive:
Good afternoon sir,

Thank you for explaining everything clearly. For a 2003 Lexus ES300 (1MZ-FE V6), the symptoms you experienced — temperature rising, coolant bubbling from the reservoir, and overheating solved only when the fan was directly connected — show that the fan control system is not operating properly, not the fan itself.

The direct connection was only an emergency bypass to get you home safely.

⸻

🔧 Professional Diagnostic Insight

1️⃣ ECU-Controlled Fan System Disabled
Your fans are originally designed to:
• Run at low speed when engine warms up
• Switch to high speed when AC or coolant temp gets high

Since the technician bypassed the relay/sensor control:
✔️ fan now runs continuously
✖️ ECU can no longer manage cooling intelligently

This is a temporary workaround, not a solution.

⸻

2️⃣ Bubbling & Reservoir Overflow
This means coolant pressure built up beyond normal.
Possible reasons:
• Cooling fans didn’t kick in early enough
• Radiator cap weak (can’t hold pressure)
• Air trapped in cooling system after boil-over

Even though your radiator didn’t spill, the reservoir is the safety exit for pressure.

⸻

3️⃣ Overheating Will Return Later if Not Correctly Fixed
Driving long-term with direct fan connection can cause:
• High alternator load
• Fan motor early failure
• Incorrect warm-up temperature
• Higher fuel consumption

ECU needs correct signals to protect the engine.

⸻

⚙️ Ryan Automotive Workshop – Professional Take

The root cause must be identified properly — not bypassed.

Most likely faults to check:
• ✔️ Cooling fan relays (2-stage control)
• ✔️ Engine coolant temperature sensor
• ✔️ Fan resistor / fan control module
• ✔️ Radiator cap pressure test
• ✔️ Air bleeding from cooling system

Once the correct component is replaced and the system bled:
• Fan will return to normal 2-speed control based on temperature/AC
• No more random overheating under load or in traffic

⸻

✅ Professional Summary & Next Steps

You should not continue permanently with direct fan wiring.
It was useful as a temporary rescue, but a proper diagnosis is required to prevent:
• Thermostat failure
• Cylinder head gasket stress
• AC performance drop
• Unexpected overheating in traffic

Let an experienced technician test the cooling control circuit and restore it to factory operation.

⸻

📍 We handle advanced cooling system diagnostics and clients travel from different parts of Lagos and beyond — distance is never a barrier to getting the correct fix.

If you want us to inspect and restore everything professionally, kindly send us a DM.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision. Transparency. Excellence.
Premium Auto Diagnostics • Engine Cooling Specialists
📍 Lagos, Nigeria

Thanks a lot for the breakdown. I am in Anambra. Do you have recommendations for a good mechanic?

.

noble71:
Please car gurus recommend the best car air freshener you have used. All the once I buy are not good.

Blunt Effects.

How much are they selling it?

Do you have pictures too?

radautoworks:
Blunt Effects.

This thread is now infiltrated with AI generated responses.

noble71:
Please car gurus recommend the best car air freshener you have used. All the once I buy are not good.

I have this air freshener I bought since May and it's still effective till today.

I bought it for like 12k then.

But I don't know the name off hand. Maybe when I step into my car later today or tomorrow, I'll snap and post the picture here

noble71:
Please car gurus recommend the best car air freshener you have used. All the once I buy are not good.

12k this is the last batch..

Please share the name with pictures [quote



author=Grupo post=137947891]I have this air freshener I bought since May and it's still effective till today.

I bought it for like 12k then.

But I don't know the name off hand. Maybe when I step into my car later today or tomorrow, I'll snap and post the picture here[/quote]

minista94:
Please share the name with pictures

See

@noble71

Okay seen, thanks I will look. out for it

Can i see it in supermarket? To avoid buying fake

Grupo:
See

minista94:
Okay seen, thanks I will look. out for it

Can i see it in supermarket? To avoid buying fake

Don't know about super market. I got it from all those shops that sell car parts and accessories