₦airaland Forum

flootintin:
To all gurus in the house, what is the effect of reintroducing thermostat which had run for years without it? Car is honda accord 2009 and pick it up last month. Had overheating issues 2 weeks ago, mechanic said radiator was blocked and did a flush. While bleeding the system after re-installation of radiator, discovered that the car had no thermostat. Before then, I know that the temperature guage raises and stays in the middle but now, after the flush, it takes a while for the guage to rise. I don't know how long ago the thermostat was removed and I want to be careful so as not the cause further issues on the engine.

Buy brand new Radiator and re install the thermostat back inside it should work
But before going for test drive please you will have to check live data from the scanner to be sure everything is fine before going on d main road.

Mpcoll001:
Good afternoon everyone,
My car(eod 2005) vibrates whenever I turned on the Ac. But it doesn't vibrate during motion. The vibration do stop after some time even when stationary.

A lot of issues could be at play here, this includes your alternator, throttle body, idle sensor, engine wear, engine seats etc.

Your best bet is to get a rewire or AC specialist to check it out to know the actual cause.

I hope this helps.

flootintin:
To all gurus in the house, what is the effect of reintroducing thermostat which had run for years without it? Car is honda accord 2009 and pick it up last month. Had overheating issues 2 weeks ago, mechanic said radiator was blocked and did a flush. While bleeding the system after re-installation of radiator, discovered that the car had no thermostat. Before then, I know that the temperature guage raises and stays in the middle but now, after the flush, it takes a while for the guage to rise. I don't know how long ago the thermostat was removed and I want to be careful so as not the cause further issues on the engine.

For your peace of mind, get that thermostat back in place because as it stands now, your engine is running cold and it will result in high fuel consumption amongst other things.

Since you've experienced an overheating already, I'm sure the engine had heating issues and the previous owner removed the thermostat instead of fixing the root cause.

Get that overheating issues sorted out first then just replace the radiator and reintroduce the thermostat, you'll enjoy the car better.

Good luck.

luvinhubby:
That adjuster of Civic 06 -010 and it's bolt can even lead to change of engine

😳 Na the same 2006-7 I don go buy oh

Upcomingdad67:
😳 Na the same 2006-7 I don go buy oh

Manage well and avoid quack mechanics

Good morning I recently replaced the battery civic 010 vehicle with 62ah. I connected the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal, and while connecting the positive, the horn started to sound continuously, prompting me to disconnect that terminal. I reconnected the horn still sounding, I unlock the car with remote, lock it back still sounding, I kept doing unlocking and locking both with key till it stopped. Since then the horn sound sometimes while driving without pressing it, it also sound continuously when I park the car at noon and midnight. Pls what could be the solution.

luvinhubby:
Manage well and avoid quack mechanics

Thanks brother

rapheal5:
Good morning I recently replaced the battery civic 010 vehicle with 62ah. I connected the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal, and while connecting the positive, the horn started to sound continuously, prompting me to disconnect that terminal. I reconnected the horn still sounding, I unlock the car with remote, lock it back still sounding, I kept doing unlocking and locking both with key till it stopped. Since then the horn sound sometimes while driving without pressing it, it also sound continuously when I park the car at noon and midnight. Pls what could be the solution.

(Manually) Use the key 🔑 in the door handle to lock and unlock the car. The horn will stop alarming. When the battery was connected it triggered panic mode.

chillex8:
I have this AC compressor for R18/R20 Honda civic for sale .
Price is 60k
1 month money-back guarantee

Location is Mainland, Lagos.

Contact is on signature

Available !!!!!!

chillex8:
I have this AC compressor for R18/R20 Honda civic for sale .
Price is 60k
1 month money-back guarantee

Location is Mainland, Lagos.

Contact is on signature

Available !!!!!! Cmoney I see you

chillex8:
Available !!!!!!

Do you have for honda accord 2009?

flootintin:
Do you have for honda accord 2009?

What engine is in your Accord?
R-20 or K-24?

chillex8:
What engine is in your Accord?
R-20 or K-24?

K-24

flootintin:
K-24

Not compatible

Go and return the battery,b4 it catch fire
Fi be say na bomb battery u go buy put
No make the horn go off car in motion and traffic dey front and u dey on speed 60kph.u go bash person moto. Go return the battery,nothing consign alarm with battery,so far u lock and unlock with remote,lock and unlock with key,or put key into ignition and roll engine,alarm suppose do normal. Na fake battery u buy

Little help here

I noticed vibrations in my accord 2009 when accelerating between 40kmh - 60kmh. Especially when shifting from 2 to 3 then it stops.

Transmission fluid is clean, no hard shifts.

Theres a little clearance somewhere.
Let your mechanic jack up the front tyres and shake them gently, any possibleclearance will be visible.

For me, I think its most likely the Thyroid.

flootintin:
Little help here

I noticed vibrations in my accord 2009 when accelerating between 40kmh - 60kmh. Especially when shifting from 2 to 3 then it stops.

Transmission fluid is clean, no hard shifts.

Please who knows a good Honda electrician in port Harcourt.

I was driving one night and my car suddenly turned off, the key light started blinking. I tried staring the car but it refused. I called an electrician and he managed to start the car, afterwards I observed the car refused to accelerate, the maximum it could do was 20.

I took it to an electrician the next morning and he did his diagnosis with a scanner and said it was the brain box. We changed the brain box and the car started working perfectly well.

After two days the same thing happened again, I was driving and the car suddenly turned off and the key light started flashing. He changed another brain box and it happened again after two days.

I have tried two other electricians and same thing is happening, please who have experienced this.

I need a competent electrician in port Harcourt, this issue has lingered since January 16. I just changed the fuse boxes in the car, both up and down.

My car is Honda civic 2008 American spec
I'll be so grateful for any help rendered.

Thank you

shininglite:
Please who knows a good Honda electrician in port Harcourt.

I was driving one night and my car suddenly turned off, the key light started blinking. I tried staring the car but it refused. I called an electrician and he managed to start the car, afterwards I observed the car refused to accelerate, the maximum it could do was 20.

I took it to an electrician the next morning and he did his diagnosis with a scanner and said it was the brain box. We changed the brain box and the car started working perfectly well.

After two days the same thing happened again, I was driving and the car suddenly turned off and the key light started flashing. He changed another brain box and it happened again after two days.

I have tried two other electricians and same thing is happening, please who have experienced this.

I need a competent electrician in port Harcourt, this issue has lingered since January 16. I just changed the fuse boxes in the car, both up and down.

My car is Honda civic 2008 American spec
I'll be so grateful for any help rendered.

Thank you

I don't know if this might help but let your rewire trace the wire from the fuse box to the ignition. The day something similar happened to me thank God I saw the small smoke that came out, after switching the car off that's why the car refuse to start and started flashing key yours might have happened like that too but you might not notice

Kaymax2222:
I don't know if this might help but let your rewire trace the wire from the fuse box to the ignition. The day something similar happened to me thank God I saw the small smoke that came out, after switching the car off that's why the car refuse to start and started flashing key yours might have happened like that too but you might not notice

Thank you
I'll do so

Dwarfgod:
(Manually) Use the key 🔑 in the door handle to lock and unlock the car. The horn will stop alarming. When the battery was connected it triggered panic mode.

It doesn't stop, it only stops when I press the horn on the steering.

I don't understand what is happening, AC compressor smokes anytime I run it. Decided to take to technician to check. He said that the compressor is bad but I need to change the radiator from single cell to double cell if i want to replace compressor. He claimed that the car will experience overheating when I run the AC on a single cell radiator.

Please am I missing something or ??

flootintin:
I don't understand what is happening, AC compressor smokes anytime I run it. Decided to take to technician to check. He said that the compressor is bad but I need to change the radiator from single cell to double cell if i want to replace compressor. He claimed that the car will experience overheating when I run the AC on a single cell radiator.

Please am I missing something or ??

Bad compressor clutch plate probably due to ignored bad bearings.
Replace clutch plate, bearing, and coil.

Dont change to double cell bla bla .

Pls what's the best coolant for Accord 2007?

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some technical insight on a persistent fuel consumption issue (currently getting only 10 MPG) on my 2006 Honda Civic. I have already restored the cooling fan to factory settings and installed a new thermostat, but P0128 (thermostat below regulating temperature) keeps returning and the car vibrates. I have confirmed that the vibration is not coming from my mounts.



I performed a cold-start test today with my scanner to watch the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) vs. Coolant Temp (ECT). Here is the data:

At 34°C (Startup): Upper radiator hose was at ambient temp. STFT was extremely rich, fluctuating between -12% and -22%.

At 60°C: The upper radiator hose became very hot and untouchable.

At 96°C: Cooling fans triggered normally. STFT finally stabilized between -3% and -5%. LTFT immediately improved from -20% to -17%. Engine load at this point revolves around 36%

My Analysis:
Since the upper hose is getting hot at only 60°C, I suspect the new thermostat is opening much too early or stuck open (it should stay closed until ~78°C I guess). This seems to be keeping the car in "cold-start" enrichment mode for too long, causing the massive negative fuel trims and poor MPG.

I previously had other codes pointing to the EGR valve and ECT sensor which I sorted by replacing the part's and codes disappeared

My Questions :

Given that the trims improve once the car finally hits 96°C, am I right to assume the thermostat is the "smoking gun"?

My local "rewire" says I can only find "Tokunbo" thermostat, but I’m worried about reliability. Has anyone had success with specific aftermarket brands for the R18 engine, or is OEM the only way to clear P0128?

Could this "rich" condition be the cause of a heavy vibration that worsens when the AC is turned on?

Thanks for the help! abeg, I dey average like 2 miles per liter of FUEL. I don tire

haykay2005:
Hi everyone, I’m looking for some technical insight on a persistent fuel consumption issue (currently getting only 10 MPG) on my 2006 Honda Civic. I have already restored the cooling fan to factory settings and installed a new thermostat, but P0128 (thermostat below regulating temperature) keeps returning and the car vibrates. I have confirmed that the vibration is not coming from my mounts.



I performed a cold-start test today with my scanner to watch the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) vs. Coolant Temp (ECT). Here is the data:

At 34°C (Startup): Upper radiator hose was at ambient temp. STFT was extremely rich, fluctuating between -12% and -22%.

At 60°C: The upper radiator hose became very hot and untouchable.

At 96°C: Cooling fans triggered normally. STFT finally stabilized between -3% and -5%. LTFT immediately improved from -20% to -17%. Engine load at this point revolves around 36%

My Analysis:
Since the upper hose is getting hot at only 60°C, I suspect the new thermostat is opening much too early or stuck open (it should stay closed until ~78°C I guess). This seems to be keeping the car in "cold-start" enrichment mode for too long, causing the massive negative fuel trims and poor MPG.

I previously had other codes pointing to the EGR valve and ECT sensor which I sorted by replacing the part's and codes disappeared

My Questions :

Given that the trims improve once the car finally hits 96°C, am I right to assume the thermostat is the "smoking gun"?

My local "rewire" says I can only find "Tokunbo" thermostat, but I’m worried about reliability. Has anyone had success with specific aftermarket brands for the R18 engine, or is OEM the only way to clear P0128?

Could this "rich" condition be the cause of a heavy vibration that worsens when the AC is turned on?

Thanks for the help! abeg, I dey average like 2 miles per liter of FUEL. I don tire

You can always test the thermostat in boiling water before installing.
What is the temperature rating of this new thermostat?
It should be 87deg.

P0128 won't cause engine vibrations.
Have you done a tune up?( Spark plugs, air filter, etc)

Your fuel trim numbers are ok.

What's your idle rpm at warm up?

chillex8:
You can always test the thermostat in boiling water before installing.
What is the temperature rating of this new thermostat?
It should be 87deg.

P0128 won't cause engine vibrations.
Have you done a tune up?( Spark plugs, air filter, etc)

Your fuel trim numbers are ok.

What's your idle rpm at warm up?

I honestly don't know the temperature rating of this thermostat. It was bought tokunbo and the rewire just fix it immediately. I later realize that the code had refused to go and the upper radiator hose always become too hot at around 60 degree.
Average fuel trim of around - 18 LTFT is not normal sir

haykay2005:
I honestly don't know the temperature rating of this thermostat. It was bought tokunbo and the rewire just fix it immediately. I later realize that the code had refused to go and the upper radiator hose always become too hot at around 60 degree.
Average fuel trim of around - 18 LTFT is not normal sir

LTFT is learned over time from your driving pattern and engine performance.....
That you are getting -18 after an ecu reset is normal. Drive around for days and report back.

The temperature rating is indicated on the thermostat.

I feel the thermostat is stuck open. However, remove and physically inspect it.
I'm assuming it was installed properly and your cooling system bled.

That aside, it isn't soley responsible for the poor mpg.

What is your idle rpm after warmup?

chillex8:
LTFT is learned over time from your driving pattern and engine performance.....
That you are getting -18 after an ecu reset is normal. Drive around for days and report back.

The temperature rating is indicated on the thermostat.

I feel the thermostat is stuck open. However, remove and physically inspect it.
I'm assuming it was installed properly and your cooling system bled.

That aside, it isn't soley responsible for the poor mpg.

What is your idle rpm after warmup?

Idle rpm after warm up is around 750. Do you also suggest that I must get the OEM new thermostat to be on a safe side?

haykay2005:
Idle rpm after warm up is around 750. Do you also suggest that I must get the [b]OEM new thermosta[/b]t to be on a safe side?

Yes
There's a tiny spindle on the OEM thermostat that's opened by water pressure even before it's the thermostat's opening temperature.

Idle is fantastic. Keep trouble shooting. Would need more live stream data of your engine to ascertain if your poor mpg is due to an electrical component or mechanical.

I plan to buy honda ridgeline 2011 cause of bad road leading to my place. Is this a good buy. I'm getting a Nigerian used. Will be going with mechanic, however what should I watch out for. Thanks