₦airaland Forum

Buy an suv instead.its a truck and its vewi long...

drweb001:
I plan to buy honda ridgeline 2011 cause of bad road leading to my place. Is this a good buy. I'm getting a Nigerian used. Will be going with mechanic, however what should I watch out for. Thanks

I prefer a truck instead. Some SUV don av that kind of ground clearance found in trucks. You mean d truck is long in length?

2cribz:
Buy an suv instead.its a truck and its vewi long...

Acura mdx does
Ml 350 ml 550 does
Honda crv 2007 to 2011 does
Toy highlander from 08 does
Rx 330,350 does
Come on na truck u wandey drive,wey long like sequoia

drweb001:
I prefer a truck instead. Some SUV don av that kind of ground clearance found in trucks. You mean d truck is long in length?

Ridgeline is not a conventional truck.
Apart from the length is there anything I should watch out for. I'm going for a 2011/2012 model

2cribz:
Acura mdx does
Ml 350 ml 550 does
Honda crv 2007 to 2011 does
Toy highlander from 08 does
Rx 330,350 does
Come on na truck u wandey drive,wey long like sequoia

Its a pickup truck/cab.its in the leagues with tacoma,hilux,etc. Nothing bad with it,uses same engine with honda pilot, strong suspension ,ball joints tripple,but it drinks fuel sha if u don drive v6. U go sabi if e deh consume fuel or not,as longas catalyst dey

drweb001:
Ridgeline is not a conventional truck.
Apart from the length is there anything I should watch out for. I'm going for a 2011/2012 model

Another point noted. Thanks

2cribz:
Its a pickup truck/cab.its in the leagues with tacoma,hilux,etc. Nothing bad with it,uses same engine with honda pilot, strong suspension ,ball joints tripple,but it drinks fuel sha if u don drive v6. U go sabi if e deh consume fuel or not,as longas catalyst dey

flootintin:
To all gurus in the house, what is the effect of reintroducing thermostat which had run for years without it? Car is honda accord 2009 and pick it up last month. Had overheating issues 2 weeks ago, mechanic said radiator was blocked and did a flush. While bleeding the system after re-installation of radiator, discovered that the car had no thermostat. Before then, I know that the temperature guage raises and stays in the middle but now, after the flush, it takes a while for the guage to rise. I don't know how long ago the thermostat was removed and I want to be careful so as not the cause further issues on the engine.

I am fully aware that what I am about to say is against popular opinion on this forum

But leave the fan on direct and thermostat removed...Let the sleeping dog lie

Even with the fan direct and thermo removed, the engine will still reach operating temp within less than 10 minutes of driving..but you also have the added advantage of assured engine cooling at the expense of a few extra minutes of extra fuel consumption...

buygala:
I am fully aware that what I am about to say is against popular opinion on this forum

But leave the fan on direct and thermostat removed...Let the sleeping dog lie

Even with the fan direct and thermo removed, the engine will still reach operating temp within less than 10 minutes of driving..but you also have the added advantage of assured engine cooling at the expense of a few extra minutes of extra fuel consumption...

It's not the same temperature on someone who sits
and let the standing fan swing side to side vs when the other pins the fan in one position while seated in front.

NB: this is not about standing fan.

drweb001:
I plan to buy honda ridgeline 2011 cause of bad road leading to my place. Is this a good buy. I'm getting a Nigerian used. Will be going with mechanic, however what should I watch out for. Thanks

Don't go for a 1st generation ridgeline. They're known to rust out terribly. If you must, ensure it's not rusted

Pls can someone recommend a very good honda specialist in akure

Good afternoon everyone. I recently bought a Nigerian used 08 Honda accord for a good price but there are some issues that I am now noticing in the car.

First, some of the yellow lights on the dashboard won’t go off, like the VSA, TPMS, check engine light, ABS light and the triangle light. Initially the brake light was showing but after a diagnosis, I had to change the break sensor, but once I changed it, I stopped seeing the brake light, but these other lights now came out of nowhere. They were not showing before. Also, my shock absorber needs to be replaced, but would it affect the other lights?

Please I will be grateful for your assistance so that I can resolve this issue without spending unnecessarily, or being cheated by my mechanic. God bless you

I'm

ChrisKris:
Good afternoon everyone. I recently bought a Nigerian used 08 Honda accord for a good price but there are some issues that I am now noticing in the car.

First, some of the yellow lights on the dashboard won’t go off, like the VSA, TPMS, check engine light, ABS light and the triangle light. Initially the brake light was showing but after a diagnosis, I had to change the break sensor, but once I changed it, I stopped seeing the brake light, but these other lights now came out of nowhere. They were not showing before. Also, my shock absorber needs to be replaced, but would it affect the other lights?

Please I will be grateful for your assistance so that I can resolve this issue without spending unnecessarily, or being cheated by my mechanic. God bless you

Scan the car and drop the fault code,that will tell you the reason why all d yellow light is on.

Ho can a shock absorber affect lights. R u guys 3ducated at all. Do the absorbers ith the lights ?are they mounted at the same place. Ogbeni open the engine bay?loose the tyres.check the sensors one after the other if they are loose or cut or disconnected. Do t be ashamed to check it yourself. Its your car.u own it.not it owning u. Check dem out b4 going to meko and rewire so dem no go scam u

ChrisKris:
Good afternoon everyone. I recently bought a Nigerian used 08 Honda accord for a good price but there are some issues that I am now noticing in the car.

First, some of the yellow lights on the dashboard won’t go off, like the VSA, TPMS, check engine light, ABS light and the triangle light. Initially the brake light was showing but after a diagnosis, I had to change the break sensor, but once I changed it, I stopped seeing the brake light, but these other lights now came out of nowhere. They were not showing before. Also, my shock absorber needs to be replaced, but would it affect the other lights?

Please I will be grateful for your assistance so that I can resolve this issue without spending unnecessarily, or being cheated by my mechanic. God bless you

Will be doing an update tutorial on recommended fluids for all Honda vehicles soon.

ChrisKris:
Good afternoon everyone. I recently bought a Nigerian used 08 Honda accord for a good price but there are some issues that I am now noticing in the car.

First, some of the yellow lights on the dashboard won’t go off, like the VSA, TPMS, check engine light, ABS light and the triangle light. Initially the brake light was showing but after a diagnosis, I had to change the break sensor, but once I changed it, I stopped seeing the brake light, but these other lights now came out of nowhere. They were not showing before. Also, my shock absorber needs to be replaced, but would it affect the other lights?

Please I will be grateful for your assistance so that I can resolve this issue without spending unnecessarily, or being cheated by my mechanic. God bless you

You have a bad ABS sensor that triggered the VSA & ABS light.
The TPMS light can be managed if you don't want to replace your tire monitoring sensor

luvinhubby:
You have a bad ABS sensor that triggered the VSA & ABS light.
The TPMS light can be managed if you don't want to replace your tire monitoring sensor

Please advice, I had the drive light blinking and VSA light on when I hard accelerated from 1 to 2 over the weekend. The transmission stopped shifting and when I scanned, the code was P0756. I cleared the code and transmission worked again. I noticed that at startup, the engine revs high to shift to 3 then normalizes throughout the day. How do I resolve the high rev in order to shift to 3 and what can be done to stop the code from coming up during hard acceleration?

I am facing this exact issue and I changed my sparkplugs a day before. My mechanic changed my sparkplugs to new ones after changing fuel pump

How did you resolve this issue?

additional info

I have found your thread. I will try that

reverendfather:
For the past one week, My Honda Accord has been doing hard starting, especially in the mornings and whenever it is parked for more than 5 minutes. The issue began after I replaced the speed sensors. During scanning, the car showed a misfire, so the mechanic worked on the injectors and installed brand new NGK spark plugs. The car started immediately afterward, was test-driven, and all warning lights (check engine, brake, VSA, ABS) cleared.

I drove home without problems, but the next morning it refused to start. The engine kept cranking and the green key light kept on blinking as if it did not recognize my key. It eventually started after several attempts and idled normally. Later that day at work, the same thing happened again. After the second crank, the check engine light came on. My scanner showed codes P060A and P1659, both pointing to ECU issues.

I researched and found out that other Accord 2008 - 2012 owners encountered similar problems as soon as they changed their sparkplugs, some went ahead to replace their ECU but the fault persisted.
They suggested changing sparkplugs, I did that this evening - problem still on, another suggested getting a new battery, I did that too still no fix. One suggested getting back my old plugs, but we can't find the old plugs anymore

My mechanic is yet to suggest anything at the moment so I don't waste money anyhow.

I just dey regret bothering myself with fixing the vsa and the misfiring ever since. The hard start has embarrassed me on multiple occasions within the space of one week

XPaul:
I am facing this exact issue and I changed my sparkplugs a day before. My mechanic changed my sparkplugs to new ones after changing fuel pump

How did you resolve this issue?

additional info

I have found your thread. I will try that

Boss look for original Belgium spark plugs. It fixed my issue,
Honda hates new aftermarket chain plugs

Thanks boss. My mechanic kept my former plugs, so I just changed it back.

Although, he mixed the new and old. I will monitor the situation.

I wished I came to NL immediately the issue happened. I had spent 60k+ to rewire and key programmer. The rewire guy was saying I needed to change the whole ignition, the fusebox by the driver side and the fusebox in the engine side.

I didn't suspect the spark plugs because I borrowed a neighbour my battery and I was not there when they returned it to my car, so I was scared that it was the ECU.

reverendfather:
Boss look for original Belgium spark plugs. It fixed my issue,
Honda hates new aftermarket chain plugs

hello good morning , I bought a Honda accord 08 , v6 engine precisely... when I got the car it was moving well ... I have taken it for normal maintenance like oil change, changed the spark plugs and everything ... after two weeks .. I noticed the car wasn't moving properly ... I can't rave it up.. it gets to certain level and drops .... then when moving it misfires and jerk... and not moving properly .... I have change the spark plug , the airflow sensor .. now the mechanic is saying something about changing the cyclinder ...
when he checked the spark plugs ... just the front 3 is working and the back 3 not working
codes after scanning
1. p0135
2. p0155
3. p2252
4. p0141
5. p0498
6. p2649

drweb001:
Ridgeline is not a conventional truck.
Apart from the length is there anything I should watch out for. I'm going for a 2011/2012 model

One bag of cement in the trunk and the front is looking up to heaven.

Hello guys, please what is the cost of the down engine mount for an Honda civic 2006 model.

Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . That's around 10 MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic/rewire to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland, I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

haykay2005:
Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . That's around 10 MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic/rewire to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland, I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

When the car has gotten to operating temp do a video of the short term fuel trim value

Y

Louiscars:
When the car has gotten to operating temp do a video of the short term fuel trim value

I will do a video but from what have seen, the stft at operating temperature hover around -3 to -14 and sometimes as high as - 24.have seen minus - 48 before. But quickly return back. I also expect my fuel trim to be lower at optimum but nothing has changed.
If I start up in the morning, my ltft will initially rise to as high - 21 and later settle at - 17 or - 18, no matter the distance covered.

The rate at which my stft jump at times is so aggressive. Something very serious is happening somewhere that sensors replacement can't correct

haykay2005:
Y
I will do a video but from what have seen, the stft at operating temperature hover around -3 to -14 and sometimes as high as - 24.have seen minus - 48 before. But quickly return back. I also expect my fuel trim to be lower at optimum but nothing has changed.
If I start up in the morning, my ltft will initially rise to as high - 21 and later settle at - 17 or - 18, no matter the distance covered.

The rate at which my stft jump at times is so aggressive. Something very serious is happening somewhere that sensors replacement can't correct

On idle what is the gm/sec of the Maf sensor
Also what voltage does the upstream 02 sensor give also

Louiscars:
On idle what is the gm/sec of the Maf sensor
Also what voltage does the upstream 02 sensor give also

my maf is between 2.5 to 3.6 g/s and o2 reading is between 0.1 and 0.9v.i believer these are normal. My point is, over and under - reporting of these should not be doing 10 MPG for a 1.8 liter engine..

Calculated engine load around 31%. Intake MAP 33kpa

haykay2005:
my maf is between 2.5 to 3.6 g/s and o2 reading is between 0.1 and 0.9v.i believer these are normal. My point is, over and under - reporting of these should not be doing 10 MPG for a 1.8 liter engine..

Calculated engine load around 31%. Intake MAP 33kpa

Something isn’t right for sure, hashed you tried taking out the nozzles, then probably have shops with all this ultrasonic fuel injector cleaner to analyze the spraying pattern to rule out leaky injectors

haykay2005:
Please, I really need help before I give up on this car.
I have a 2006/2007 Honda Civic and the fuel consumption is extremely bad , it’s behaving like a V8 engine. This is far beyond normal, and I don’t believe simple sensor errors alone should cause this level of consumption.

Here’s my situation:
• I’ve replaced parts that were throwing codes (02 sensors, MAF sensors, Purge valve, Egr Valve, ect2 sensors, no hose leak anywhere, air filter changedl, plugs changed,thermostat)
• Fixed the cooling fan (now working at factory settings)
• Reset ECU multiple times
• At every refill, I reset my trip meter
Real example:
• 16 liters → only 40 miles (~64 km) . That's around 10 MPG
This is draining me financially.
I’ve spent close to ₦800,000 on diagnostics, repairs, and parts — moving from one mechanic/rewire to another with no real solution. Even tried a well-recommended workshop in Oyingbo — still trial and error.
Another example:
• ₦20,000 fuel finished just from Abule Egba → Airport → back
This is not sustainable.

Current observations:
• Spark plugs are brown (no oil, no black soot)
• Engine runs relatively smooth , with a little vibration(I just realized my mount is bad and that could be he reason for the vibration)
• LTFT around -21%
• No major current fault codes
• Mechanics here don’t seem familiar with proper fuel pressure testing , so I haven’t done that
I’m honestly exhausted and frustrated. I don’t have access to highly experienced professionals, and I keep wasting money without solving the problem.
Please:
What could cause this level of fuel consumption on a 1.8L engine?
What should I check next that others might be missing?
Any serious, experience-based advice would be greatly appreciated. I honestly don’t know what to do. Pple just dey refer me to their pple on man know man. At the end na rubbish

I will appreciate someone on the mainland, I have met with pple with advanced scanners. some only have tools, they cant solve problem

Start from the easiest to hardest.
1.check for leakage physically from your tank to the charcoal canister to the fuel lines.

2. When you changed the parts, do you still have those codes available? O2 sensor and MAF are very important for fuel economy.

3. Your tires are they stock or the vehicle has been lift modified with bigger tires and rims.

4. You still need a qualified tech to check the hard stuffs like injector leakage, bad plugs too much air getting into the system.

Conner44:
The only issue is the use of the wrong weight of oil or oil starvation (due to leaks or burning) which will affect the VTC cam gears and cause the dreaded 3 second rattle at startup.

The crv is a sturdy vehicle all round

Hello bros, so, what is the right oil weight to use (in 9ja) on a CRV 2011 cos I've been experiencing oil shortage (no leaks/smoking) for a while now with Mobil 1 (5W-30).