₦airaland Forum

cryptocherith:
My Camry keeps displaying airbag on, please of I may ask what's the cause and solution?

Scan car and post codes.
I will assist you on what to do. If you're in Abuja, I'd help resolve the issue.
Warning: DO NOT ALLOW NON PROFESSIONAL HANDLE REPAIRS OF YOUR AIRBAG SYSTEM. E get why.

It's normal, it means your airbag sensor is very active...

You have nothing to worry

cryptocherith:
Yes, when passenger is on the front seat.

vivalavida:
You are welcome. You dey come through for me on whatsapp well well.

The person that chats that drives an 08 TSX.

Yeah I remember now.

My steering is stiff and the power steering oil is leaking. The mechanic has traces and worked on it but it's still leaking and stiff.
Gurus I the house pls what's the solution to this.

Fromwater:
My steering is stiff and the power steering oil is leaking. The mechanic has traces and worked on it but it's still leaking and stiff.
Gurus I the house pls what's the solution to this.

Get another mechanic to trace the leakage and fix your steering.

Fromwater:
My steering is stiff and the power steering oil is leaking. The mechanic has traces and worked on it but it's still leaking and stiff.
Gurus I the house pls what's the solution to this.

What type of car
If there's too much air inside the system it will still stiff.
You can get another technician to diagnose for you

NobleEngineer:
Exactly.
What allow engines to last longer is bad market for engine sellers and mechanics...their beef with thermostats is as clear as day.
They want you to wreck your engine and quickly come back for replacement.
So they wage war on the use of 5w30, on the use of thermostat, use of antifreeze/coolant. Even the cooling fans are not spared; they bypass them and put them on permanent n continuous operation.
So in less than few years after importing the car, the buyer must replace something...yes they make sure of that.

Hmm, I haven't thought of this your points before o. You have a good point.
It may not be ordinary Ignorance, wickedness could also be involved.

rapheal5:
thanks I changed the steering cover and it works fine

Thanks for the update. Your issue actually made me laughed hard.

My 2010 Toyota Camry V6 has developed a jerking issue when the A/C is on. The jerking happens randomly, but it is especially noticeable while stopped in traffic or at a stoplight (on hold-up).
Additionally, every time the car jerks, the engine completely shut off if I turn the steering wheel fully to the left or right.
The V6 engine also feels like it loses power The car’s movement becomes noticeably less smooth, almost like it’s struggling or hesitating.
This issue only occurs when the A/C is running. The car drives normally when the A/C is off.

Justicepluto:
My 2010 Toyota Camry V6 has developed a jerking issue when the A/C is on. The jerking happens randomly, but it is especially noticeable while stopped in traffic or at a stoplight (on hold-up).
Additionally, every time the car jerks, the engine completely shut off if I turn the steering wheel fully to the left or right.
The V6 engine also feels like it loses power The car’s movement becomes noticeably less smooth, almost like it’s struggling or hesitating.
This issue only occurs when the A/C is running. The car drives normally when the A/C is off.

Good Afternoon Sir.

Vehicle: Toyota Camry 2010 V6
Concern: Jerking, loss of power, and engine stalling when A/C is ON (especially at idle and during steering)

Let’s address this properly before any unnecessary parts are replaced.



• Professional Diagnostic Insight

From your explanation:

• Vehicle runs perfectly fine with A/C OFF
• Jerking and roughness occur only when A/C is ON
• Engine can stall when steering is turned fully (lock)
• Issue is worse at idle / in traffic

This clearly indicates:

• The problem is related to engine load management at idle, not a general engine failure.

When A/C is turned ON, the engine experiences additional load from the compressor.
When you turn the steering fully, the power steering system adds extra load as well.

If the engine cannot compensate for these loads, it will:
• Jerking
• Drop RPM
• Stall


Important Observation

Your case involves two load systems acting together:

• A/C Compressor Load
• Power Steering Load (when turning fully)

The engine should automatically adjust idle speed to handle both.

• Since it is failing to do that, there is a fault in idle control or load compensation system.


• Likely Causes (Based on Symptoms)

• Weak or Failing Idle Air Control / Throttle Body Issue
• Dirty or carbon-clogged throttle body
• Poor idle air regulation
• Engine cannot increase RPM under load

• Weak Engine Mounts (Contributing Factor)
• You will feel jerking more aggressively
• But mounts alone will not cause stalling

• A/C Compressor Dragging Excessively
• Compressor may be partially seized or overloading engine
• Causes RPM drop and hesitation
• Low Engine Idle Compensation (ECU / Sensor Related)
• Throttle position / airflow miscalculation
• Engine not responding correctly to load
• Charging System Weakness (Battery / Alternator)
• When A/C + steering load comes in, voltage drops
• Can contribute to stalling at idle

⸻
• What Should Be Checked Now

Before replacing anything, carry out these checks:
• Throttle Body Inspection & Cleaning
• Very common cause of this issue
• Check A/C Compressor Load
• Observe if RPM drops heavily when A/C engages
• Scan Live Data
Check:
• Idle RPM behavior
• Throttle position
• Engine load
• Short & long fuel trims


• Inspect Engine Mounts
• Especially if jerking feels excessive
• Charging System Test
• Battery and alternator performance under load


• Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT replace the A/C compressor immediately without testing
• Do NOT ignore the stalling — it can worsen
• Do NOT allow random “trial and error” repairs
• Do NOT keep driving long-term in this condition

• Professional Insight

Your engine is struggling to handle combined load at idle (A/C + steering).

This is usually caused by:
• Poor idle air control (most common)
• Or excessive mechanical load (compressor issue)

The fact that the vehicle drives normally with A/C OFF is a strong clue that the core engine is still healthy

Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Start with a structured idle and load compensation diagnosis, focusing on:
• Throttle body condition
• A/C compressor load behavior
• Engine response to added load

This will pinpoint the exact cause without unnecessary replacement.

If you are able to bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited performs professional diagnostics, live data analysis, and system load testing to accurately resolve issues like this.

Early diagnosis will prevent unexpected stalling in traffic.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision • Transparency • Excellence

..

RyanAutomotive:
Good Afternoon Sir.

Vehicle: Toyota Camry 2010 V6
Concern: Jerking, loss of power, and engine stalling when A/C is ON (especially at idle and during steering)

Let’s address this properly before any unnecessary parts are replaced.



• Professional Diagnostic Insight

From your explanation:

• Vehicle runs perfectly fine with A/C OFF
• Jerking and roughness occur only when A/C is ON
• Engine can stall when steering is turned fully (lock)
• Issue is worse at idle / in traffic

This clearly indicates:

• The problem is related to engine load management at idle, not a general engine failure.

When A/C is turned ON, the engine experiences additional load from the compressor.
When you turn the steering fully, the power steering system adds extra load as well.

If the engine cannot compensate for these loads, it will:
• Jerking
• Drop RPM
• Stall


Important Observation

Your case involves two load systems acting together:

• A/C Compressor Load
• Power Steering Load (when turning fully)

The engine should automatically adjust idle speed to handle both.

• Since it is failing to do that, there is a fault in idle control or load compensation system.


• Likely Causes (Based on Symptoms)

• Weak or Failing Idle Air Control / Throttle Body Issue
• Dirty or carbon-clogged throttle body
• Poor idle air regulation
• Engine cannot increase RPM under load

• Weak Engine Mounts (Contributing Factor)
• You will feel jerking more aggressively
• But mounts alone will not cause stalling

• A/C Compressor Dragging Excessively
• Compressor may be partially seized or overloading engine
• Causes RPM drop and hesitation
• Low Engine Idle Compensation (ECU / Sensor Related)
• Throttle position / airflow miscalculation
• Engine not responding correctly to load
• Charging System Weakness (Battery / Alternator)
• When A/C + steering load comes in, voltage drops
• Can contribute to stalling at idle

⸻
• What Should Be Checked Now

Before replacing anything, carry out these checks:
• Throttle Body Inspection & Cleaning
• Very common cause of this issue
• Check A/C Compressor Load
• Observe if RPM drops heavily when A/C engages
• Scan Live Data
Check:
• Idle RPM behavior
• Throttle position
• Engine load
• Short & long fuel trims


• Inspect Engine Mounts
• Especially if jerking feels excessive
• Charging System Test
• Battery and alternator performance under load


• Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT replace the A/C compressor immediately without testing
• Do NOT ignore the stalling — it can worsen
• Do NOT allow random “trial and error” repairs
• Do NOT keep driving long-term in this condition

• Professional Insight

Your engine is struggling to handle combined load at idle (A/C + steering).

This is usually caused by:
• Poor idle air control (most common)
• Or excessive mechanical load (compressor issue)

The fact that the vehicle drives normally with A/C OFF is a strong clue that the core engine is still healthy

Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

Start with a structured idle and load compensation diagnosis, focusing on:
• Throttle body condition
• A/C compressor load behavior
• Engine response to added load

This will pinpoint the exact cause without unnecessary replacement.

If you are able to bring the vehicle down, Ryan Automotive Limited performs professional diagnostics, live data analysis, and system load testing to accurately resolve issues like this.

Early diagnosis will prevent unexpected stalling in traffic.

Ryan Automotive Limited
Precision • Transparency • Excellence

thank yiu.

Good evening house,
Please, just got a Toyota Corolla 2011 with mileage of 140,000miles. Last service sticker says 0w-20 Castrol. I once read where late gazzuzz recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage but where to get original is the ish.
@kingreign. You've got idea if gazzuzz auto is still in the business of selling these items? You have idea of how much it'd cost? What other variant of 5w30 can I opt for should I can't get the High mileage model?
Thanks boss mi.

Stick to 0w-20, that's the recommended oil in the oil cap, if you're in Lagos, I sell original coolant and Mobil 1 direct from USA

Echo3:
Good evening house,
Please, just got a Toyota Corolla 2011 with mileage of 140,000miles. Last service sticker says 0w-20 Castrol. I once read where late gazzuzz recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage but where to get original is the ish.
@kingreign. You've got idea if gazzuzz auto is still in the business of selling these items? You have idea of how much it'd cost? What other variant of 5w30 can I opt for should I can't get the High mileage model?
Thanks boss mi.

Echo3:
Good evening house,
Please, just got a Toyota Corolla 2011 with mileage of 140,000miles. Last service sticker says 0w-20 Castrol. I once read where late gazzuzz recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage but where to get original is the ish.
@kingreign. You've got idea if gazzuzz auto is still in the business of selling these items? You have idea of how much it'd cost? What other variant of 5w30 can I opt for should I can't get the High mileage model?
Thanks boss mi.

His shop still sells them

3kay945:
Thanks for the update. Your issue actually made me laughed hard.

lol

Echo3:
Good evening house,
Please, just got a Toyota Corolla 2011 with mileage of 140,000miles. Last service sticker says 0w-20 Castrol. I once read where late gazzuzz recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage but where to get original is the ish.
@kingreign. You've got idea if gazzuzz auto is still in the business of selling these items? You have idea of how much it'd cost? What other variant of 5w30 can I opt for should I can't get the High mileage model?
Thanks boss mi.

Yes. His workshop still stocks and sells it.

Ignore anyone telling you to stick to 0w20.
Go with the 5w30.

please house am troubled my car off each time am waiting in traffic once the car is on drive and my leg is on brake my car will off within 5second please what could be the possible reason my honda civic 2008

I recently changed gear on acura mdx, but I am getting two fault codes.

P0842 and p0747, please I need a detailed help, this mechanics seems not to understand anything.

lordfalcao:
I recently changed gear on acura mdx, but I am getting two fault codes.

P0842 and p0747, please I need a detailed help, this mechanics seems not to understand anything.

Pressure switch it located outside the gearbox replace it

Abbeyismo:
Pressure switch it located outside the gearbox replace it

one out of this four is not good and you can’t repair only it

lordfalcao:
one out of this four is not good and you can’t repair only it

The ones in green are pressure switch whiles the other pressure control solenoid

I can give you some useful maintenance tips, if only you know about Autosabi, you will be better for it.

Abbeyismo:
The ones in green are pressure switch whiles the other pressure control solenoid

One of the pressure control solenoid is not shooting

Beware Of Stephen Ademola Ayantoye The Impersonator on this thread

https://www.nairaland.com/8668787/beware-stephen-ademola-ayantoye-impersonator

lordfalcao:
One of the pressure control solenoid is not shooting

Can you share ur contact?

jceesquare:
Thanks for the constant referral.
I appreciate it.

I’m thinking of getting an Acura MDX
Ford edge, RAV4, highlander any car I could get within the budget of 8million.
What are your thoughts and suggestions please?

luvlyoracle:
I’m thinking of getting an Acura MDX
Ford edge, RAV4, highlander any car I could get within the budget of 8million.
What are your thoughts and suggestions please?

Top three best option woukd be the
2006 - 2008 highlander- pretty much reliable, you can even get one with third row option, for your budget the latter year ( 2008 ) would be a little expensive to get though
2008-2010 Rav4 - also well within budget, get a 4 plugs variant for fuel economy and try pushing for the 2010 model year with the 2AR engine it’s much better than the former year
2008-2012 Acura mdx - well within budget for a registered 2011 model year, honestly it a really reliable suv and would also give you a premium feel compared to the other ones above , but it’s not the best when it comes to gas mileage and again you have to be mindful of the fuel that goes into it, thank you

Jesustheking:
Can you share ur contact?

07089030689

Pls respond to your email

Much respect boss

lyort:
I don't buy them new, i mostly buy from the engine sellers, they take out the thermostat from engines that their thermostat housing is broken. But for Toyotas Ghanaman is the sure plug. I lost his contact a while ago but I can get it to you soon