₦airaland Forum

Aspireahead:
I’m having an intermittent issue with my car and need help diagnosing it.

The car starts normally and drives fine at first, but after some time on the road, I suddenly lose acceleration. When I press the accelerator, the engine is still running and RPM stays low, but the car does not respond or pick up speed properly.

If I turn the car off and restart it, it goes back to normal and drives fine again for a while, before the same issue returns.

Aspireahead:
I’m having an intermittent issue with my car and need help diagnosing it.

The car starts normally and drives fine at first, but after some time on the road, I suddenly lose acceleration. When I press the accelerator, the engine is still running and RPM stays low, but the car does not respond or pick up speed properly.

If I turn the car off and restart it, it goes back to normal and drives fine again for a while, before the same issue returns.

lawmanlala:
My honda accord 07 came up with the following codes after noticing rough acceleration. Has multiple cylinder misfire. How do I fix these?

jceesquare:
I'm suspecting the hard shift happens only when cold right?
Those transmission have seals in them that fails and makes the transmission act erratically.
The issue might not be externally but within the transmission and might require an invasive repairs (my assumption).
Rescan and see if you have any code.
Also run a live data on the transmission and see if the solenoids shifts on and off when you shift the gear. If it does, then that confirms my earlier take on mechanical damage within the transmission.

flootintin:
Now I am dumbfounded with the erratic nature of the transmission. At startup, apart from the hard shift, it works well. If I shutdown the engine and restart, it goes into limp mode. Remains like that for hours. Check engine light comes up and code is p0780 and manufacturers control. I clear codes still erractic, then after a couple of start and stop it is back normal and remains normal

lawmanlala:
My honda accord 07 came up with the following codes after noticing rough acceleration. Has multiple cylinder misfire. How do I fix these?

Aspireahead:
I’m having an intermittent issue with my car and need help diagnosing it.

The car starts normally and drives fine at first, but after some time on the road, I suddenly lose acceleration. When I press the accelerator, the engine is still running and RPM stays low, but the car does not respond or pick up speed properly.

If I turn the car off and restart it, it goes back to normal and drives fine again for a while, before the same issue returns.

Aspireahead:
I’m having an intermittent issue with my car and need help diagnosing it.

The car starts normally and drives fine at first, but after some time on the road, I suddenly lose acceleration. When I press the accelerator, the engine is still running and RPM stays low, but the car does not respond or pick up speed properly.

If I turn the car off and restart it, it goes back to normal and drives fine again for a while, before the same issue returns.

omonla5:
Getting original coolant is the problem as it's will be with other vehicle parts. Most coolant in the market today are just water mixed with coloring.

RyanAutomotive:
Good day sir.

Vehicle: Honda Accord 2007
Current Fault Codes:
• P0141 – O₂ Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
• P0341 – Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance
• P1157 – Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Range/Performance
• P2185 – Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
• P0300 (Pending) – Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Concern: Rough acceleration and multiple-cylinder misfire.

Let’s address this properly before replacing sensors randomly.


* What These Codes Are Telling Us

Looking at these codes together, this is not a case where one faulty sensor is causing all the problems.

Instead, we are seeing faults affecting multiple engine management systems:

• Camshaft timing information
• Air/Fuel mixture monitoring
• Coolant temperature monitoring
• Ignition and combustion quality

The ECU is receiving incorrect information from several areas, which can absolutely cause rough acceleration and misfires.


* P0341 – Camshaft Position Sensor (High Priority)

This is one of the most important codes here.

The camshaft position sensor helps the ECU determine:

• Injection timing
• Ignition timing
• Engine synchronization

If the signal becomes weak or erratic:

• Engine can misfire
• Acceleration becomes rough
• Fuel economy drops
• Starting issues may occur

A faulty camshaft sensor can even trigger secondary codes elsewhere.


* P1157 – Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Performance

This sensor is one of the primary sensors the ECU uses to calculate fuel delivery.

When it becomes inaccurate:

• Engine may run rich
• Engine may run lean
• Fuel consumption increases
• Misfires may develop
• Acceleration suffers

On Honda vehicles, P1157 is very common when the Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor starts deteriorating.


* P2185 – Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High

This code should not be ignored.

If the ECU believes the engine temperature is incorrect:

• Fuel mixture calculations become inaccurate
• Engine may remain in enrichment mode longer than necessary
• Fuel economy suffers
• Misfires may occur

The issue may be:

• Faulty ECT sensor
• Damaged wiring
• Connector problem


* P0141 – O₂ Sensor Heater Circuit

This refers to the downstream oxygen sensor.

While it should be repaired, it is unlikely to be the main reason for the severe rough acceleration.

However, it can affect:

• Emissions performance
• Fuel trim calculations
• Overall engine efficiency


* Important Observation

The pending P0300 code is extremely important.

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire

This means the ECU is detecting combustion problems across multiple cylinders.

The misfire is likely a result of one or more of the other faults already present.

The goal should be finding the root cause, not simply treating the misfire code.


* What Should Be Checked Now

Before replacing more parts:

1, Perform live-data diagnostics.

Monitor:

• Camshaft sensor signal
• Engine coolant temperature reading
• Air/Fuel sensor readings
• Short-Term Fuel Trim (STFT)
• Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT)

2, Inspect the camshaft position sensor and wiring.

Particularly:

• Sensor connector
• Oil contamination
• Harness damage


3, Verify the ECT sensor readings.

Compare:

• Actual engine temperature
• Scanner temperature reading

Any major discrepancy points toward a sensor or wiring issue.


4, Test the Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor properly.

Do not replace it based solely on the code.

Confirm its performance using live data.


5, Check ignition system basics.

Even if plugs and coils appear okay:

• Verify spark quality
• Verify coil operation
• Verify cylinder contribution


* Do NOT Do This

• Do NOT replace all sensors at once
• Do NOT clear codes repeatedly and hope they disappear
• Do NOT ignore the P0341 code
• Do NOT start replacing injectors without testing


* Professional Insight

If this Honda Accord were in our workshop, the first fault I would investigate is P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor Performance).

Why?

Because incorrect camshaft timing information can directly affect:

• Fuel delivery
• Ignition timing
• Engine synchronization

Which can then contribute to:

• Rough acceleration
• Misfires
• Poor fuel economy

The P1157 and P2185 should also be taken seriously because both directly influence how the ECU calculates fuel mixture.


* Ryan Automotive Limited Recommendation

The correct next step is a structured engine management diagnosis, focusing on:

• Camshaft sensor testing
• Air/Fuel Ratio sensor analysis
• Coolant temperature sensor verification
• Fuel trim analysis
• Misfire monitoring
• Wiring integrity inspection

At Ryan Automotive Limited, we diagnose the root cause through live data and system testing rather than replacing parts based solely on fault codes.

If you are within Lagos or can bring the vehicle down, we can carry out a comprehensive diagnostic assessment to determine exactly which fault is causing the rough acceleration and misfire before any unnecessary expenses are incurred.


Precision • Transparency • Excellence

united4men:
Good evening bosses

Vehicle - Honda Accord 2007
Code - P0506

I had a mechanic fix my kick starter after it stopped working 2 days ago. After fixing the kick starter, the car turns, rough idles & the RPM keeps dropping on the dashboard till it jerks and turns off. After cleaning throttle body and checking for air leaks here & there, the car was scanned

Code - P0506: idle air control system RPM lower than expected

When the air flow sensor is disconnected, the car will start and idle better but it won't turn back on while the engine is hot until it cools

What is the solution to this please?

Abbeyismo:
Clean the throttle body and IAC Valve
Inspect for vacuum leaks
Repave the IAC Valve

united4men:
1 & 2 has been done already, but my mechanic is claiming it will be a wiring issue

Abbeyismo:
Have you try replace it?

united4men:
Not yet

Abbeyismo:
Clean the throttle body and IAC Valve
Inspect for vacuum leaks
Repave the IAC Valve

hayzed1090:
Hello house … pls is it safe to use this for servicing an Acura zdx transmission

minista94:
What year? 2012

hayzed1090:
Hello house … pls is it safe to use this for servicing a 2012 Acura zdx transmission

Dwarfgod:
Please just avoid this fake knock off! You gear will start misbehaving. You will be experiencing hard shifting, and downshifting when coasting to a stop. Also you will experience transmission flare... e go do like ur solenoid is bad and that is when you take it to a mechanic and your Journey of NO return begins.. also this fake transmission fluid will smell burnt after 1000 miles.. If you ignore the hard shifting etc.. you will be shaving off your transmission particles...


Please buy original Honda aft DW1 and not in tincans... it's sold for 28k to 30k per quart...

You will be needing 8 quarts to do a proper drain and refill x2 if you don put this fake atf inside. And after 10kmiles do another drain and refill to make it normal x3 change recommended.

hayzed1090:
Tanx boss I really appreciate your response. The car was actually having the hard shift problem and a burnt Trasmission oil from the person that sold the car to me.

Dwarfgod:
Do you have any transmission code? If not! Do x3 transmission change. With original oil. The gear go sharp again...


Hint! Always buy MRS fuel.. not the best but better

hayzed1090:
Yea it has a transmission code , I don’t have it but My mechanic said it’s responsible for the hard shift problem also pls by x3 , do you mean using 24 qts original fluid after draining the bad one

Dwarfgod:
Are you overhauling your transmission?
By x3, i mean 3 quarts by 3 = 9. But always good to get 10 quarts for extra top up.

Drain and Fill 3 quarts, drive around maybe 10miles and drain again. Do it three times

hayzed1090:
Hello house … pls is it safe to use this for servicing a 2012 Acura zdx transmission

Dwarfgod:
Please just avoid this fake knock off! You gear will start misbehaving. You will be experiencing hard shifting, and downshifting when coasting to a stop. Also you will experience transmission flare... e go do like ur solenoid is bad and that is when you take it to a mechanic and your Journey of NO return begins.. also this fake transmission fluid will smell burnt after 1000 miles.. If you ignore the hard shifting etc.. you will be shaving off your transmission particles...


Please buy original Honda aft DW1 and not in tincans... it's sold for 28k to 30k per quart...

You will be needing 8 quarts to do a proper drain and refill x2 if you don put this fake atf inside. And after 10kmiles do another drain and refill to make it normal x3 change recommended.

flootintin:
Currently experiencing the same, I want to do drain and fill. Is this original?